MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison

[DirtRoad]

Well thats good to know. Hopefully it comes with enough of them, its what i would consider an extreme slope.

 

[Rentawrench]

Dirt Road looked at your shop thread, Ideafor the summer add an apron out front of the door an put anchors outside too.

you can mock up the post an get them plum, then make up a shim out of plate to keepthe post plum in both directions , remember to uselong enought bolts.

Niceshop

 

[97dynaglide]

I hadn't really thought about that but it certainly does make sense if any of the WejIt's don't take hold. Is the hole size to drill the same for the epoxy anchors? And what about temps for the epoxy to set up? Looks like the local weather will be in the low to mid-40's during the day and high thirty's at night.

When I was trying to put an epoxy anchor into the Wejit hole, the epoxy anchor was a pretty tight fit, tighter than it was for the Wejit. I have yet to research the diameters associated with the epoxy anchors, but it seems as though a 1" drill bit might be in order.

As far as temps for the Inject-Tite epoxy (taken from the inst. on tube), 20 degrees F needs 45 mins to gel, 6 hours for cure.
40 degrees F needs 20 min gel, 90 mins cure.

 

[Dolfan]

so I bought a single column from gesusa.com (I love those guys there) and made my middle column to where it can be turned to the direction I'm working on. The one column is just difficult to get to, so my husband allowed me to buy the third column.

Denee, I've not been out here for a while on my original thread, I really like your idea of the three posts to cover two bays! If I had not added a 4-post for storage in my next bay that might have been a good way to go.

I'm glad to see this thread going strong on MaxJax.

My MaxJax had a project most of the summer, that is what happens when you run your race car off track and into the barrier at about 80mph

Before

After

Lots of time on the old MaxJax, made the rebuild so much easier!!!!

 

[Denee007]

Wow, you do great work and what a fabulous looking car! I hope you didn't suffer any damages, except your wallet! ; )

 

[c4cruiser]

When I was trying to put an epoxy anchor into the Wejit hole, the epoxy anchor was a pretty tight fit, tighter than it was for the Wejit. I have yet to research the diameters associated with the epoxy anchors, but it seems as though a 1" drill bit might be in order.

As far as temps for the Inject-Tite epoxy (taken from the inst. on tube), 20 degrees F needs 45 mins to gel, 6 hours for cure.
40 degrees F needs 20 min gel, 90 mins cure.

I think I'm going to call Gabe today and see what he recommends for epoxy anchors. I guess I'm in far enough that going with epoxy anchors may be a solution for peace of mind if nothing else. I'm not too worried about curing temps for epoxy as I can spread the install process over the next month.

 

[Dolfan]

Wow, you do great work and what a fabulous looking car! I hope you didn't suffer any damages, except your wallet! ; )

All the safety stuff did it's job, only the front end of the car took the big hit, the front shock towers were OK. But everything in front of that was toast.

 

[Denee007]

I'll have to say I had the same problem with the epoxy anchors. I literally had to drive them in, as with any anchor install, it's a one shot thing! you get it right the first time! I remember measuring and measuring with my digital caliper, The end of the 7/8 drill bit was the same size as the anchor and taking in consideration of the hammering would waller the hole some. But was still extraordinarilly tight! The instructions said nothing about the true installation. I think my epoxy anchors or more held in by the shear tightness of the hole vs the actual epoxy. Though I know epoxy is in there because it came out as designed as the anchor is driven in. The anchors are the unfun part of the install for sure.

When I was trying to put an epoxy anchor into the Wejit hole, the epoxy anchor was a pretty tight fit, tighter than it was for the Wejit. I have yet to research the diameters associated with the epoxy anchors, but it seems as though a 1" drill bit might be in order.

As far as temps for the Inject-Tite epoxy (taken from the inst. on tube), 20 degrees F needs 45 mins to gel, 6 hours for cure.
40 degrees F needs 20 min gel, 90 mins cure.

 

[97dynaglide]

Thanks for the info, I was really concerned about the amount of force it looks like I'm going to need to put the anchors in. I was thinking I would mess up the threads.

With the fit that tight, did any epoxy come up out of the hole past the anchor?

 

[97dynaglide]

I think I'm going to call Gabe today and see what he recommends for epoxy anchors. I guess I'm in far enough that going with epoxy anchors may be a solution for peace of mind if nothing else. I'm not too worried about curing temps for epoxy as I can spread the install process over the next month.

Let us know what Gabe says about the anchors and hole size. It might save him from numerous repetitive calls and emails in the future.

 

[c4cruiser]

Called GES today but Gabe wasn't there. Talked to a Jason who recommended their epoxy anchors after we talked about the new pads I had installed. He agreed that the thickness of the pads (12 inches) would preclude drilling all the way through just to pound out a Wej-It anchor should it not hold.

The GES web page for the anchors state they are 7/8" wide and so are the bottom portions of the Wej-It anchors that are provided with the MaxJax.

Jason said the depth of the drilled hole is important as is making sure that the hole is free of dust from drilling. Looking at the specs of the anchor, it says they are 5 3/4" long so hole depth could be critical for installation.

I ordered a set of the epoxy anchors and they should be here by the end of the week. I'll try to post a pic of each anchor for comparison and I'll mic the width of the anchors.

 

[Denee007]

I keep a few epoxy anchors on hand. Looks like a larger size drill bit would have been in order. No wonder I had to drive mine in with a sledge hammer! They're never coming out! That's for sure!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/Denee/epoxyanchor1_zps44b300d2.jpg

 

[Denee007]

The flat spot allows excess epoxy to come out, you're supposed to have excess come out, if not, you may not have had enough epoxy.

 

[Denee007]

I spoke to someone about epoxy anchors in 4" concrete. The epoxy anchors are a little over 5.5"s. Obviously the anchor would go into the dirt. I was told to pack more dirt, or maybe even cement to lessen the chance for epoxy to disappear beneath the concrete floor. I used more dirt in my case and used a broom stick to pack and pack until I knew the epoxy wouldn't just dissappear. The epoxy did come back up through the flat spot as it was supposed to. Makes a mess. Be sure to have a few other tubes on hand, or at least a few tube mixer ends. The epoxy sets quickly~ I ruined a couple tubes! Have a plan and work quickly! Maybe if the hole is just a "tad" larger, you won't have to drive them into the hole which takes time and creates un-needed frustration!

 

[DirtRoad]

Dirt Road looked at your shop thread, Ideafor the summer add an apron out front of the door an put anchors outside too.

you can mock up the post an get them plum, then make up a shim out of plate to keepthe post plum in both directions , remember to uselong enought bolts.

Niceshop

Figured thats how it would work.

I seen some people just use big washers.

 

[97dynaglide]

I wonder if going with a 1" drill bit could be a possibility, since the anchors mic out at 29/32?
3/32" isn't much at all, and would allow the epoxy to come up all around the anchor rather than just the flat spot area.
I have at least 2 more weeks of cure time left before it's time to drill for me.

 

[Denee007]

Perhaps drill a test hole in an inconspicous place, and see how an anchor goes in. I would think you'd want the anchor to go in a with a little persuasion, not freely, but that's just my thinkin.

I wonder if going with a 1" drill bit could be a possibility, since the anchors mic out at 29/32?
3/32" isn't much at all, and would allow the epoxy to come up all around the anchor rather than just the flat spot area.
I have at least 2 more weeks of cure time left before it's time to drill for me.

 

[les_garten]

I wonder if going with a 1" drill bit could be a possibility, since the anchors mic out at 29/32?
3/32" isn't much at all, and would allow the epoxy to come up all around the anchor rather than just the flat spot area.
I have at least 2 more weeks of cure time left before it's time to drill for me.

I wouldn't guess or wonder on any of this. Contact the anchor manufacturer and do what they tell you to do. Personally this does not seem like the time to be extemporaneous...

 

[c4cruiser]

I wonder if going with a 1" drill bit could be a possibility, since the anchors mic out at 29/32?
3/32" isn't much at all, and would allow the epoxy to come up all around the anchor rather than just the flat spot area.
I have at least 2 more weeks of cure time left before it's time to drill for me.

How about drilling the 7/8" hole and then use something like a round brass or bronze brush to slightly ream out the hole? I think it would be easier and safer to slightly enlarge the hole than to drill a hole that's too large and hope that the epoxy will fill all of the gap to the point where the epoxy is the only attachment.

A 7/8" hole is 28/32nds so the additional hole diameter needed is only 1/32". Even getting half of that difference may make all the difference in pounding the epoxy anchor down.

 

[skamp]

I wonder if going with a 1" drill bit could be a possibility, since the anchors mic out at 29/32?
3/32" isn't much at all, and would allow the epoxy to come up all around the anchor rather than just the flat spot area.
I have at least 2 more weeks of cure time left before it's time to drill for me.

The instructions say to use a 7/8" bit so use what it tells you. Yes it will be tight and should be. I used a small sledge to hammer mine down.

Steve

 

[dmeadow]

The instructions say to use a 7/8" bit so use what it tells you. Yes it will be tight and should be. I used a small sledge to hammer mine down.

Steve

^^^This.

http://www.toggler.com/wejit/powersert.pdf

 

[Denee007]

We're with you~ Have an extra tube of epoxy and the little mixer ends. Have a REALLY GOOD caulk gun! I've mentioned it to someone, but someone on the GJ used a template when drilling the holes~ even the 5/8" bit can walk, and just a tiny bit of walk can translate into having to possibly elongate a hole on your MJ. Check into this please. Just trying to save you some grief. ; )

A thought, but if the hole is not perfectly drilled, meaning like the driller wobbles some, may make the hole not perfectly straight, so when driving the epoxy anchor it, may encounter some "bumps" not allowing the anchor to go in a little better. Just a thought, I did my install alone(as usual), and I really could have used someone to watch as I drilled!

 

[97dynaglide]

http://www.toggler.com/wejit/powersert.pdf

Thanks for the link.
I see that they are supposed to be a tight fit.

Now to just find something else to mess around with while the concrete cures.....

 

[les_garten]

Thanks for the link.
I see that they are supposed to be a tight fit.

Now to just find something else to mess around with while the concrete cures.....

It has to be a tight fit and a straight hole to wedge.

The people who have problems are the one's who wallow out the hole making it larger than it should be because they don't drill on a plumb line.

Cheap hammer drill will also kill the hole. You want a drill that drills concrete like butter. If you have a drill that takes too long to drill the hole, it'll be wallow'd out as well.

 

[DonnyT]

Great thread. Just a tip here if mounting your controller on the wall as some did. I used Gates Global 6MK Mega 3000 hose which has a tight 2.5 inch radius and is very easy to work with as compared to the original hose which is not very flexible at all.

 

[c4cruiser]

Great thread. Just a tip here if mounting your controller on the wall as some did. I used Gates Global 6MK Mega 3000 hose which has a tight 2.5 inch radius and is very easy to work with as compared to the original hose which is not very flexible at all.

I noticed right away that the hoses provided with the MaxJax are pretty stiff. One thing that may help is to use some 90 degree fittings on the distribution block. That way the hoses will point downwards instead of out to the sides. But the fittings will have to extend past the motor housing. Does anyone have a source for hydraulic ******* about 3" long in 3/8" sizes.

 

[Denee007]

This isn't the best picture, but this setup works great for me! 90 degree fittings at the base of the columns. Obviously the pump on the wall. I have a third column you can barely see on the far right. I would like to get another hydraulic hose for the third column some day.

 

[les_garten]

I just posted a Maxjax Drilling question Poll, Please vote!

Drilling Question

 

[jacobsed]

The anchor instructions from Weg-It say to drill a minimum hole depth of 5". The MaxJax instructions say to drill a hole 5 1/2" deep. The MaxJax specs say that a 4" slab is acceptable. I'm not a genius but how is a 4" pad acceptable for the anchor when a 5" hole is required? Do they just want to make sure you made a thru hole or something?

 

[jeostang]

I've read through this whole thread, and was not sure about MJ since my ceiling is 8'3. Denee made me feel at ease. Now the only thing I'm worried about is my concrete pad. My house is 28 years old so I'm not sure what I'm going to find when start to drill.

I have another question,

The space between the posts, is it measured from the inside or outside? And should I just go ahead and do the epoxy anchors over the supplied ones? One of my posts are going to be stay up at all times.
My only regret is I should of bought it when they were cheaper.

 

[pmgriphone]

As far as I can tell from the manual, the space between the posts is measured from the outside end to outside end of the baseplate. At least this is how it is indicated on page 14 of the manual.

Question in return:

I got my MaxJax and noticed that the baseplates on the columns are not flat. They are warped towards the corners. I have put a level on it and tried to measure the warp-age and it seems to be at least 1/8in....

This seems quite a lot. If I push the columns down onto the floor such that the back of the plate is flat with the floor (where the anchors are), the front of the plate (the end that has no holes) is floating of the floar by about 1/8in.

Is this something to worry about? Has anyone else checked their baseplates for warp-age?

 

[tomsmith]

I've noticed the same thing. Initially, i thought it was the floor that was maybe not completely level but I put the post down on the ground and ran a level against the bottom and the corners do curl up ever so slightly.

In my case, it's probably 2-3mm at the very corner. It's actually probably less than that even because I tried putting a shim under it and the shims are just a tiny bit too thick to go completely under the base plate.

I'm not going to worry about it - I figure once they bolts are torqued down, it's not going anywhere .. might even flatten it once it's got some bolt pressure on it

 

[Todd.Brock]

Well, shoot. I appear to be missing 2 complete quick couplers, male and female, and 3/8 *******. Life has gotten in the way and its been a LONG while since I bought it the lift so I'm not sure I can go back to GES/Danmar and ask for them to send them to me.

I Went to TSC and their fittings are China, expensive and out of stock. I could attach the hoses to the fluid dist. block and just lose the quick connect or maybe attach with 90 degree fittings to tighten the wingspan up.

*****, but I don't feel like spending 75 bucks on fittings....rant over!!!
I will say that Danmar used USA Dixon fittings. That surprised me.

 

[c4cruiser]

I would find a shop that makes hydraulic hoses; most of these places will have a wide variety of fittings along with QD's. Parker makes good QD fittings.

You might also consider using swivel fittings to help keep the hoses from coiling or kinking.

 

[Rodbuilder]

Todd, give GES a call and tell them your story. Just might surprise you, I have found then to be very helpful.

 

[Todd.Brock]

So as follow up, GES/ Dannmar made good. He said, we will send parts for free, but its 24.95 for actual shipping. Not sure that is an actual shipping charge, but either way, it's cheaper than TC or Parker. He could have said we can help you out for 25 bucks and I would have been cool with it. Just the way it was phrased, I guess.

On another note, he had never heard of maxjaxusa.com. I was asking for a place to download the manual. I went to Dannmar.com to find the current manual and parts list. It appears that they no longer spec quick disconnects at the flow divider. The directions on the web site have you running the hose directly into the flow divider. On the instructions that I received , it had a quick connect at the flow divider And at the column. It appears they maybe found a way to save a few bucks? It makes me wonder even more that maybe I was in a transition of not shipping quick connects at flow divider but received the older manual that still spec'd the parts. I will say that GES has been good to deal with. They also sold me the epoxy anchors for cheap and a new decal that was destroyed at shipping. They could have said take a hike or worse, so I appreciated the help.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I apparently ordered a day after the revision. Here is the manual.
Here Is the revision. I missed the differences. I saw the sheets were similar and used the manual instead of the addendum. Coupled with the fact the parts inventory calls for four of each instead of two each. Meaning, four disconnects, one at each end of the hose. It seems they didn't include a new parts inventory sheet. When I saw that , I knew I was "missing" parts. Appears that I wasn't supposed to get them. I got a FedEx number already so I will let it go.

 

[Rodbuilder]

Very smart to go with the epoxy mollies.

Word of advise on the mollies. Get all your holes drilled and cleaned out and have everything ready to go, the epoxy bones up fast.

Also see if you can find my posts here about using 90* elbows on the hoses.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Thanks for the advise. The previous post about missing parts was the extra disconnects so I can undo the hoses completely ( at post and flow diverter) when not in use. That should help prevent the need for the 90 deg fittings.

 

[dmeadow]

So as follow up, GES/ Dannmar made good. He said, we will send parts for free, but its 24.95 for actual shipping. Not sure that is an actual shipping charge, but either way, it's cheaper than TC or Parker. He could have said we can help you out for 25 bucks and I would have been cool with it. Just the way it was phrased, I guess.

On another note, he had never heard of maxjaxusa.com. I was asking for a place to download the manual. I went to Dannmar.com to find the current manual and parts list. It appears that they no longer spec quick disconnects at the flow divider. The directions on the web site have you running the hose directly into the flow divider. On the instructions that I received , it had a quick connect at the flow divider And at the column. It appears they maybe found a way to save a few bucks? It makes me wonder even more that maybe I was in a transition of not shipping quick connects at flow divider but received the older manual that still spec'd the parts. I will say that GES has been good to deal with. They also sold me the epoxy anchors for cheap and a new decal that was destroyed at shipping. They could have said take a hike or worse, so I appreciated the help.

In other threads the Dannmar folks say they have less trouble with uneven lifting if the quick disconnects on the flow divider are omitted. That's probably why they aren't including them going forward.