wolfsburged
Well-known member
How can I map out my rebar before drilling? I tried using my stud finder and it did not like the concrete.
MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison
- Thread starter Dolfan
- Start date
regguy1
Well-known member
My MJ install thread:http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71225
I copied and pasted this from another post I made, I had some issues with the anchor installation this might be of help during your install:
Here's the update, I've got the lift installed and running. It looks like a nice unit. The power unit is quieter than I thought it would be. Installation was straight forward.
I think setting of the anchors is the most critical part of the installation procedure. A couple of things I'll mention from my experience of this one installation. Let me say this first, I'm not a pro lift installer and the following are my opinions only. Drill the holes as per instructions. Do a through job of cleaning the holes. Even though the supplied anchors (Wej-It PD58) are not specifically epoxy style units I'd recommend using a good quality epoxy for additional integrity of anchor bond to concrete. I coated the hole and the exterior of anchors before driving them in. Drive them the 5/8" below concrete as instructions call for, I wouldn't go less.
Now thread the sacraficial bolt with washer and nut finger tight into the anchor, hold the bolt head (you do not want the anchor to rotate in the hole) and tighten the nut to set the anchor, the lift instruction booklet says tighen until anchor is flush with the concrete surface.....The instructions that came in the box of anchors say no more than 4 turns for the 5/8" bolts size. I found that at about 3 turns I could feel the anchors bite hard into the concrete even though they were still 1/8" -3/16" below the surface of floor. I think it's fine (and even preferable) to leave them slightly down because when you tighten the bolts to the base plate if the anchor is not holding properly you'll realize it when torquing the bolts, but with the anchor flush it can contact the bottom of the base plate and feel tight even though not fully anchored in the hole.
Page 13 step 14 of the lift installation manual tells you to install anchor bolts to base plate and tighten 3 to 3 3/4 turns. I believe this is in error, the anchors have already been set with the bolt and nut procedure. These bolts should be torqued betweem 70-95 Ft Lbs according to Wej-it (95) and Dannmar (70).
I found it impossible to get 3+ turns after anchors were set and it caused a couple anchors to pull up (perhaps they rotated in the hole and lost grip ?) and I have to replace them.
I like the lift, it will be very useful in my shop.
I hope this is helpful.
I copied and pasted this from another post I made, I had some issues with the anchor installation this might be of help during your install:
Here's the update, I've got the lift installed and running. It looks like a nice unit. The power unit is quieter than I thought it would be. Installation was straight forward.
I think setting of the anchors is the most critical part of the installation procedure. A couple of things I'll mention from my experience of this one installation. Let me say this first, I'm not a pro lift installer and the following are my opinions only. Drill the holes as per instructions. Do a through job of cleaning the holes. Even though the supplied anchors (Wej-It PD58) are not specifically epoxy style units I'd recommend using a good quality epoxy for additional integrity of anchor bond to concrete. I coated the hole and the exterior of anchors before driving them in. Drive them the 5/8" below concrete as instructions call for, I wouldn't go less.
Now thread the sacraficial bolt with washer and nut finger tight into the anchor, hold the bolt head (you do not want the anchor to rotate in the hole) and tighten the nut to set the anchor, the lift instruction booklet says tighen until anchor is flush with the concrete surface.....The instructions that came in the box of anchors say no more than 4 turns for the 5/8" bolts size. I found that at about 3 turns I could feel the anchors bite hard into the concrete even though they were still 1/8" -3/16" below the surface of floor. I think it's fine (and even preferable) to leave them slightly down because when you tighten the bolts to the base plate if the anchor is not holding properly you'll realize it when torquing the bolts, but with the anchor flush it can contact the bottom of the base plate and feel tight even though not fully anchored in the hole.
Page 13 step 14 of the lift installation manual tells you to install anchor bolts to base plate and tighten 3 to 3 3/4 turns. I believe this is in error, the anchors have already been set with the bolt and nut procedure. These bolts should be torqued betweem 70-95 Ft Lbs according to Wej-it (95) and Dannmar (70).
I found it impossible to get 3+ turns after anchors were set and it caused a couple anchors to pull up (perhaps they rotated in the hole and lost grip ?) and I have to replace them.
I like the lift, it will be very useful in my shop.
I hope this is helpful.
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Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Don't worry about it...just pick up a rebar cutter by Relton or Bosch of the correct size.I hit rebar in 3 holes when I put my anchors in....cutter made it easy-peasy
I think I paid $15 for my Relton on Ebay. Another piece of advice.....DO NOT step drill the holes....start out full size and get the proper size hammer drill.Let it do the work. I think Bosch "Wild Bore" bits work the best http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000TZY0C/?tag=atomicindus08-20 good luck!
wolfsburged
Well-known member
Ok, I have my SDS drill borrowed, my SDS 7/8" bit and my SDS 7/8" rebar cutter just in case.
Planning on drilling these and installing this weekend.
They included the epoxy anchors as a no-cost adder when I purchased.
I skimmed through this and the other Install thread and saw a little discussion of this, but for my own re-assurance I will ask again.
My test hole came out pretty smack dab at 4" thick concrete. The supplied Wej-It PS2-58 anchors are close to 6" long and indicate a minimum hole depth of 6-1/4". I called Danmar prior to purchase and they had indicated to just put something under the hole to keep the epoxy from leaking out entirely. There are four "nubs" on the anchor, and it appears that from the top of the anchor down 4" will cover only two of the four "nubs". Am I over thinking/worrying about this too much? I don't want to have to cut and repour concrete if I don't need to, but this does seem out of the range of the Wej-it instructions.
Planning on drilling these and installing this weekend.
They included the epoxy anchors as a no-cost adder when I purchased.
I skimmed through this and the other Install thread and saw a little discussion of this, but for my own re-assurance I will ask again.
My test hole came out pretty smack dab at 4" thick concrete. The supplied Wej-It PS2-58 anchors are close to 6" long and indicate a minimum hole depth of 6-1/4". I called Danmar prior to purchase and they had indicated to just put something under the hole to keep the epoxy from leaking out entirely. There are four "nubs" on the anchor, and it appears that from the top of the anchor down 4" will cover only two of the four "nubs". Am I over thinking/worrying about this too much? I don't want to have to cut and repour concrete if I don't need to, but this does seem out of the range of the Wej-it instructions.
Buddy I'm doing my installation right now and running into similar challenges.
I just bought some epoxy. The guys told me to stuff paper in the bottom of the hole to stop it from oozing through the bottom.
This is a pain in the ***!!!
One of my anchors busted loose
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Todd.Brock
Well-known member
I had the same scenario guys. Except Gabe at Danmar told me to use a coffee filter. ....
This is the point where people seem to decide to cut and repour because Danmar say the lift works with 4"of concrete then send you a 6" anchor. I did mine with coffee filters and my cars didn't fall off or the end of the world didn't come either.
This is the point where people seem to decide to cut and repour because Danmar say the lift works with 4"of concrete then send you a 6" anchor. I did mine with coffee filters and my cars didn't fall off or the end of the world didn't come either.
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Well after dicking around for 15 hours and snapping off 2 3/4" bolts and busting two anchors loose , cracking the concrete and finding out that two of the 6 on one post are thin I threw in the towel
I have a concrete guy on the way for an estimate.
For now - SCREW POWERS ANCHORS AND THEIR HORRIBLE SOFT, BURRED BOLTS
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I have a concrete guy on the way for an estimate.
For now - SCREW POWERS ANCHORS AND THEIR HORRIBLE SOFT, BURRED BOLTS
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wolfsburged
Well-known member
I got my holes drilled and epoxy anchors in today. Hit rebar in half the holes. Luckily I had ordered a Bosch SDS rebar cutter which worked great. Luckily one entire post was over 6" concrete which was much thicker than expected. The other post was 4", and installed the epoxy anchors with coffee filters. Being overly cautious and waiting 24 hours before I try to torque any of the anchors. Got all new hoses and fittings from the local Parker store on Friday but paid dearly for the convenience. Put all the hydraulics together with Loctite 545 so also waiting 24 hours on all that to cure. Got some AW32 hydraulic oil. Hopefully will set posts and bleed hydraulics tomorrow or more likely Monday.
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Nice!
Which anchors do you have bud? I want flush surface mounts but don't want to beat the hell out of them and ruin my concrete or threads.
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Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Looks like you have done everything correctly...good work!
wolfsburged
Well-known member
Got it finished today, everything went pretty smooth. Took a while to get the 35' hose side bled vs the 10' hose side. Still a tiny bit faster up on the shorter side, I keep getting tiny bits of air out of the slower post so I will keep at the bleeding but only about an inch off by full height so not too bad. All anchors set fine, had to shim three bolts with 1 shin each on one post, and 2 bolts with 1 shim each on the other. Posts are measured and verified parallel. Lift arms are perfectly level front to back. However left to right on pads are about 1/2" off due to concrete. Thinking that I could just make a half inch spacer for under the lift pads for one side to compensate, anyone else run onto this?
Nice job man. I'm getting some new footings poured soon. I could push all the old ones thru but I am a little suspicious of some of the anchor embed mentioned.
They held enough toto shear a 3/4 bolt so I think K they are in ok though.
Did you use the wejit anchors with epoxy?
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wolfsburged
Well-known member
I used the PS2-58 epoxy wedjit anchors
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Yellow1098
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- Jul 7, 2013
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- 39
I am working on setting mine up as well. I have to pick up some new anchor bolts, but I just had a question about a discussion I had with an engineer. He argued with me that 2 bolts in the concrete would be structurally better than all 5. His claim is that the 5 bolts would weaken the surrounding concrete. Now I completely do not agree with that, as I'm sure dannmar has a lot more R&D and testing regarding this and knows better than this nut, but I just wanted to get your feedback. Thank you!
cookiemech
Well-known member
I'm wondering what KIND of engineer . . . I'm an engineer, too, with 36 years' experience, but I would not attempt to second-guess Dannmar's work, since I am an ELECTRICAL engineer!
Seems to me that if five bolts would weaken the surrounding concrete, it's not a good concrete mix and you'd need to jackhammer it out and pour a new pad anyway. But as I said, I'm not an expert on concrete strength.
Seems to me that if five bolts would weaken the surrounding concrete, it's not a good concrete mix and you'd need to jackhammer it out and pour a new pad anyway. But as I said, I'm not an expert on concrete strength.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Did your "engineer"
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Wow. Don't want to go inside a building if he designed it.
Yellow1098
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Completely agree with guys! Thank you!
skamp
Well-known member
The spec from toggle is a minimum spacing of 4 3/8". The shortest distance between anchors is 5 1/8" so well within the specification defined by the anchor manufacturer.
Steve
wolfsburged
Well-known member
If anyone is looking to extend their Max Jax lines, I did not use either of my hoses or quick connects. Willing to let them go cheap, PM me if interested.
bought mine last December from home depot and just now after finally getting my slabs done. My floor was only 3 to 4 inches thick so i did a 3x3 hole and one and half foot deep footings... now I'm ready to drill for the anchors but a bit worried as to most people saying some wont set in or lock in correctly.
Rodbuilder
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- Aug 2, 2010
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yes I've seen the epoxy type are the most popular to use but a little messy...
I removed the ones that came with it and replaced with the epoxy ones. It was a PITA but glad I did.
Remember when you drill don't step up drill, don't start with smaller bit and work your way up. Make your first hole the size you need and the more plumb you get it the better. I had a buddy watch me drill to help keep me straight.
cookiemech
Well-known member
You are supposed to REALLY clean the holes by using a brush, blowing out with compressed air, vacuuming, repeating, etc. Once they are really clean, use the epoxy, and smack them in with a hammer (obviously you are smacking a bolt that is threaded into the anchor). A tight fit is good. You can and should do trial fits; you can fab a method for pulling the anchors back up, since ideally they don't just drop in.
If you use the correct drill bit, yes, it will be a tight fit.
If you use the correct drill bit, yes, it will be a tight fit.
Yellow1098
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One question I have which is probably silly....these type drop in epoxy anchors with sleeves are used so the posts can be moved often and when needed correct? Normal much cheaper concrete wedge anchor blots aren't advised because once you put those in...you can't take them in and out correct? I know wedge bolts have an extremely high tensile strength...well above the needed strength for the lift. I was just wondering why these type aren't used by anyone. Thanks guys!
The drop in flush mounts do work well but these epoxy drop ins reduce the tendency for the concrete to crack or spall and also "bite" into the concrete better. Many folks have trouble getting the wedge to set properly and that allows the anchors to spin in the holes.
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Yellow1098
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I just installed my maxjax. I still need to bleed the system as you guys have given me the info for. Just for a dry run without bleeding it comes up slightly shaky and uneven with nothing on it, but not by much at all. It's actually pretty dam good for a first setup. I bought mine used from a guy off craigslist and everything seems to be in order and I know for it to work properly it has to be properly bled. But as far as the little bit of shakes, when the arms come up it looks like the noise and those little shakes are from the middle lift cylinder being to far to one side or the other. Is that from it needing to be bled or something else? any tips would be great! Thank you!
Another main question I have is what are the best lifting points for my 77 TA? I was thinking the back of the front frame and the front of the rear subframe. That is always where I have put my jack stands in the past but I know this is a slightly different situation. What is the center of gravity for a 77 trans am? As I know they are slightly front heavy. Thank so much for your input and help!
Another main question I have is what are the best lifting points for my 77 TA? I was thinking the back of the front frame and the front of the rear subframe. That is always where I have put my jack stands in the past but I know this is a slightly different situation. What is the center of gravity for a 77 trans am? As I know they are slightly front heavy. Thank so much for your input and help!
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Plus 1 on this.Rubber gloves and a tub of wheel bearing grease...be generous...it makes a real difference in how the lift operates.
shortykorte
Well-known member
After a 1 1/2 years of trials and tribulations and a lot of procrastination I might be close with install 2.0. I'll put together my experience soon.
With install 1.0 I bled the cylinders for the most part. Today, first partial lift I had 1/2" difference. Going through a few cycles and bleeding some more, I did get some air out of the drivers side post. Somehow I ended up with about an 1" difference on drivers side. Would I be correct in thinking drivers side needs more bleeding?
With install 1.0 I bled the cylinders for the most part. Today, first partial lift I had 1/2" difference. Going through a few cycles and bleeding some more, I did get some air out of the drivers side post. Somehow I ended up with about an 1" difference on drivers side. Would I be correct in thinking drivers side needs more bleeding?
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Mr onetwo
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Mr onetwo
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Mr onetwo
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Pixar
Member
Me Too !! using mine today! have it set up for 5 diff cars and a trike.
3 sets of holes drilled, all holding up real well. nice cars you have
3 sets of holes drilled, all holding up real well. nice cars you have
knagy389us
Well-known member
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Luv that wagon dude! All you need now is a couple of surf boards on top
All you need now is a couple of surf boards on top