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Metal Chop Saw

TimeWarpF100

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Best Metal Chop Saw

My current Makita chop saw which i have had since 1978 still works great never had brushes or any repair but the table is no longer straight. Its a huge effort for straight cuts.

Looking at purchasing a new one.

What is best one others here have found for the $$?

How thick of material can I cut with a Carbide type blade?

Kind of looking at Fein, Makita etc

Since its been 40 yrs since my last purchase I am out of the loop.

I also have a JET band saw but the bearings are toast and it does not cut proper either.

Any input?

Most is steel tubing but I do have a couple axles I need to cut for a current project.

Pro's and Con's for Carbide type blade vs the abrasive..
 
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tarbellb

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Edited: looks like you cant C&P a link from a link, but should be working now.

Or just go to the original thread linked in #2.
------------

I will link my own response from that thread linked already-
Search is your friend, after some reading hit us up with specific questions-

"I have used several brands of dry cuts over the years, its my primary tool for cutting steel.

Here are some previous threads that cover some of your questions-

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356755

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351584

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349113

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348415

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347622

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346881

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=342294


To highlight some of the points:

They are very basic machines, motor, fence/vise, base are the three major factors. Agreed that a bad base/fence/vise will give you headaches and inaccuracy.

The (14") Evo has been the best overall machine considering performance/price.

Good luck."
 
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James-W

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Is the chop saw something you use quite a bit? Or is it just something you use on occasion?

Reason I am asking is that I have both a chop saw and a metal cutting band saw. I much prefer the band saw to the chop saw and it sounds like maybe you do too. It may be more advantageous for you to get new bearings for the band saw instead of getting a new chop saw. Just a thought.
 
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T

TimeWarpF100

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I will link my own response from that thread linked already-
Search is your friend, after some reading hit us up with specific questions-

"I have used several brands of dry cuts over the years, its my primary tool for cutting steel.

Here are some previous threads that cover some of your questions-

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=356755

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=351584

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=349113

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=348415

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=347622

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=346881

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=342294

To highlight some of the points:

They are very basic machines, motor, fence/vise, base are the three major factors. Agreed that a bad base/fence/vise will give you headaches and inaccuracy.

The (14") Evo has been the best overall machine considering performance/price.

Good luck."

Never have much luck with the "search" option. never seem to get the key words . .
 
OP
T

TimeWarpF100

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Is the chop saw something you use quite a bit? Or is it just something you use on occasion?

Reason I am asking is that I have both a chop saw and a metal cutting band saw. I much prefer the band saw to the shop saw and it sounds like maybe you do too. It may be more advantageous for you to get new bearings for the band saw instead of getting a new chop saw. Just a thought.

I do like the Jet band saw but it needs a major rebuild. With very limited and crowded shop space the Band Saw is usually buried and the chop saw is just so much easier for a quick job.

2 weeks ago I had a minor surgery on my back and its full of stitches yet which makes it pretty difficult to bend my back at all. I have the chop saw set up on a bench where keeping bending to a minimum.

I do plan on a rebuild of the Jet but with how much I have to get done in a little time just not in the cards to tear it apart, order parts, rebuild. And yes I should have done it long ago but it still worked . . Just not precision cuts or within .250 on a 2" cut. LOL. Its flat out wore out!

For the price 200.00 to 500.00 now would be great and do use it a fair amount. Just nice to have in the shop since I have had current Makita for 40 yrs.
 

bullnerd

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Tarbell, I got page not found on the first 4 of your links then I stopped.

Probably me.

What brand does that kid on you tube use? The make it great guy? He cuts A LOT of steel with that thing.

EDIT: Make it extreme!
 
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T

TimeWarpF100

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I will link my own response from that thread linked already-
Search is your friend, after some reading hit us up with specific questions-

"I have used several brands of dry cuts over the years, its my primary tool for cutting steel.

Here are some previous threads that cover some of your questions-

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=356755

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=351584

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=349113

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=348415

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=347622

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=346881

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=342294

To highlight some of the points:

They are very basic machines, motor, fence/vise, base are the three major factors. Agreed that a bad base/fence/vise will give you headaches and inaccuracy.

The (14") Evo has been the best overall machine considering performance/price.

Good luck."

Error 404 - Not Found on all of those links
 

hogdaddy

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Alabama
I have an Evolution metal chop saw. I used it the other day to cut some 1/4" bar stock. Sliced thru it like butter, no sparks and I picked it up right after without getting fingers burned. Freaking incredible if you ask me.
 

James-W

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I have an Evolution metal chop saw. I used it the other day to cut some 1/4" bar stock. Sliced thru it like butter, no sparks and I picked it up right after without getting fingers burned. Freaking incredible if you ask me.
None of my business, but if you don't mind my asking, what did you pay for it? That must be one heck of a blade to cut thru metal.
 

kerrynzl

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Tauranga, New Zealand
Re: Best Metal Chop Saw

My current Makita chop saw which i have had since 1978 still works great never had brushes or any repair but the table is no longer straight. Its a huge effort for straight cuts.

Looking at purchasing a new one.

What is best one others here have found for the $$?

How thick of material can I cut with a Carbide type blade?

Kind of looking at Fein, Makita etc

Since its been 40 yrs since my last purchase I am out of the loop.

I also have a JET band saw but the bearings are toast and it does not cut proper either.

Any input?

Most is steel tubing but I do have a couple axles I need to cut for a current project.

Pro's and Con's for Carbide type blade vs the abrasive..


Makita LC1230 drop saw. is a good home engineer's saw.
I cut and built 25 car hauler trailers from 1 blade.

What I liked best was cutting and fitting! If you cut something a tad too long, you could run the blade down the edge and trim 1/2 a millimetre off it [in a few seconds]
Normally that would require a grinder to achieve.

You won't regret it [unless you want to pony up $1000's for a high end commercial unit]


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOLV/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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Sjfab

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St. Paul Mn
I’ll second the evolution saw. I built a rolling cart for mine with flip up sides.
 

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jimgood

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I have a DeWalt dw872. I would not buy it again. The fence and clamping apparatus is ****. There's too much flex in the cutting head so you have to have a very light touch when cutting, which you should anyway. But it should be more rigid.

One of my mad schemes is to mount the cutting head on a turntable and make it so the head turns like traditional miter saw. Putting the stock in the machine at an angle is not always convenient and it really ***** for cutting angle steel.
 

icecactus

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A lot of folks recommend the evolution. The 14" evo and 10" miter evo were a POS. At least the two that i bought were.

The FEIN Slugger 14", MK Morse CSM14MB or the Makita LC1230 are going to be your best bets in my opinion. The fein is the same as the morse, but with a quick release vise. They are identical otherwise. You can also get the MK Morse CSP14A01 Metal Devil V-Block and use it on the Fein. I ended up going with the Fein, it was a hard choice but I decided i wanted the 14" capacity and the quick release vise.
 

shoot summ

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I bought one of the Evo saws early on because I couldn't afford the saw I really wanted.

I does cut great, you have to make sure your work is secure or it will send it flying. And it sends these hot, sharp chips everywhere. I had to use it outside, the chips were a ***** IMO.

Then I finally found the saw I wanted used, the Femi benchtop bandsaw.

http://www.hemsaw.com/?page_id=1698&sid=75
 

56Safari

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I use the Fein 14" slugger metal chop saw and I can't say enough good things about it. Cuts through 3/16" wall tubing like butter again and again. Pieces are cool to the touch when you pick them up, and rarely require deburring. it cuts metal almost as fast as a miter saw cuts 2x4's.

A few things to note

Replacement blades are $100 online, and about $140 at the LWS, but worth every penny.

there are different blades for stainless / aluminum

(you can also just buy this blade and put it on a cheaper model chop saw if the RPM's if you match the RPMS.)
 
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sberry

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I never miter with it. I have but don't. Anything I need at an angle would get cut with a plasma most of the time. I am the designer, I can make most repair fabs without doing 45 and if I need to its likely to get welded in, want some crack and gap to weld it up right.
 

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TimeWarpF100

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Thanks to ALL for the great feedback!

Tough decision but ended up ordering the Makita LC1230 for a few reasons.

1) Availability (I can have by Friday morning free shipping)
2) Recommendations here
3) I have owned my current Makita with ZERO issues in over 40 yrs (still works fine)
4) It has the best online reviews in price category
5) I have had great luck with all my Makita purchases in the past

I also spoke with JET and found all parts needed to rebuild my Saw for under 200.00
They had parts in stock so ordered what was needed with extra guide bearings for 10 yrs from now if it wears out again.

Some of the comments here got me thinking why did I really quit using the JET bandsaw and it was pretty much it was cutting crooked because of bad guide bearings.
That got me thinking how accurate the cuts were until those bearings wore out.

It was within .005" in a solid 3" roundstock cut. So, it will be good to have it in service once again and hopefully will be a hour or so to replace parts and get it "calibrated" to cut accurate once again. JET is sending me the guide to set it up properly.

I will have proper rebuild parts from JET on Monday.

With a bit of tweaking can most likely get the current Makita working good when needed.

This will give me :

1) Abrasive wheel cutting
2) JET Bandsaw
3) Carbide cutting

I will use whatever best suits the job!

Once again, Thanks to all who commented!

I was considering the Evolution saw but availability was an issue. Not avail until Jan 31st at places I could order from.
 

txvwnut

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I’ll vote for the Evolution too, I’ve got a Rage2 and it’s been great. I will second the hot flying chip comment from earlier, those little bastards get everywhere. I think the biggest I’ve cut is some 1 1/2” bar, don’t think the saw is rated for it but if feed slow it will do it.
 

bullnerd

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Great choice.

Please follow up and tell us what you think of it once you "chop" some stuff.
 

az45

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I picked up the Evolution from Trick Tools at the PRI show in December to replace the 239.00 Saw from Northern Tool that I wasnt real happy with. Its super nice, you just need to keep it square.
 

roche

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Messages
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Re: Best Metal Chop Saw

Makita LC1230 drop saw. is a good home engineer's saw.
I cut and built 25 car hauler trailers from 1 blade.

What I liked best was cutting and fitting! If you cut something a tad too long, you could run the blade down the edge and trim 1/2 a millimetre off it [in a few seconds]
Normally that would require a grinder to achieve.

You won't regret it [unless you want to pony up $1000's for a high end commercial unit]


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOLV/?tag=atomicindus08-20

this
 

Slednut

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SIL just purchased on of these, and here are his first cuts.
 

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dogdog

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I have my eyes on the MK Morse now. Disappointed at the evolution rage . I thing those ppl that have high reviews of the evolution saws, will get disappointed if they have the consumer models. I think the raptor aka evo380 is their commercial grade saws. My 14”rage consumer model *****. It kept cutting slanted after the first few cuts on new blade. About 1/16 or1/8 off on a two inch square tube 10 gauge.
 

tarbellb

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I have my eyes on the MK Morse now. Disappointed at the evolution rage . I thing those ppl that have high reviews of the evolution saws, will get disappointed if they have the consumer models. I think the raptor aka evo380 is their commercial grade saws. My 14”rage consumer model *****. It kept cutting slanted after the first few cuts on new blade. About 1/16 or1/8 off on a two inch square tube 10 gauge.

I think there is a huge jump in quality between ALL of their "multi" purpose saws and the dedicated Evo380.


My Evo380 was the heaviest (cast everything basically) dry I have used to date.
 

roche

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You'll soon wonder why would anyone use a standard chop saw.
 

dogdog

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I think there is a huge jump in quality between ALL of their "multi" purpose saws and the dedicated Evo380.


My Evo380 was the heaviest (cast everything basically) dry I have used to date.

No the 14" Rage 2 is not multipurpose, it's built specific for metal, just like the abrasive saw and it is heavy as well... the problem is that when new, it cuts great, machine cut edges... after a 100 cuts, it's miss by about 1/8 to 1/16 inch which is a pisser. The blade seems to wear out faster I am on my third one now, even when not forcing it down, letting the blade spin up to speed before going for the cut.... I tried to adjust the fence, it cures the slant for about 10 cuts then goes back to 1/8 1/16 off. I remember calling the company other than few bells and whistles the base is almost the same... the motor is a lot better between the EVO and the Rage 2... same company same saw I was told. But you are right might be because of the Consumer product vs Industrial product line.
 

bullnerd

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I have a DeWalt dw872. I would not buy it again. The fence and clamping apparatus is ****. There's too much flex in the cutting head so you have to have a very light touch when cutting, which you should anyway. But it should be more rigid.

One of my mad schemes is to mount the cutting head on a turntable and make it so the head turns like traditional miter saw. Putting the stock in the machine at an angle is not always convenient and it really ***** for cutting angle steel.

I just happened across a comparison between the dewalt and the evo on youtube.

The dewalt had a better clamp (evo threads smeared during the test!) and less run out on the blade. The evo left a much worse finish on the cut end also.

Just FYI.
 
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