Metal vs drywall ceiling in garage

[Justanoldguy]

diesel dan,
how are your purlins done on your walls (i assume it's a pole building)? do you have any pics during the install on the walls?
i can't decide if i want drywall or steel on my walls. the ceiling will be steel.

I always thought (45 yrears building trade) that a purlin was a Roof component, not a piece of a wall. Even wiki agrees with me.

 

[classic boost]

sorry, i'm not a builder. what's the horizontal 2x4 called that go from pole to pole?

 

[John in OH]

Do you **** the ends or overlap?

My steel sheets overlap about 6" on the ends. See pics in post #3.

 

[rburke65]

Those are a "girt" I believe. My trusses were 24" OC. No sagging and I over lapped the panels, used a partial length for a starter, just like a shingled roof. Did some measuring, and drill all my holes on the bench top before putting them up to the bottom truss cord. A DeWalt battery drill-driver with a hex head driver. You want to just compress the umber washer a little. Don't over drive because you will deform the panels and you want to try and maintain a smooth surface. Panels went up quickly, and once screwed to the truss......your done. No filling screw hole, sanding, primer, painting. Marks wipe right off, great reflection of lights.....you'll like it!

 

[justin1795]

my concern with the drywall is the finishing, im not a drywall guy so I will be sanding and I think a sander over my head will get old.

 

[Diesel Dan]

sorry, i'm not a builder. what's the horizontal 2x4 called that go from pole to pole?

Girts but many still call them purlins.



I used the same 24" OC spacing as the exterior walls. Bottom 2x4 is treated and behind the plastic.

 

[jomobco]

ever seen paint on steel peel after several years even though it was prepped correctly? I would also think the noise reflection would be worse. But then I like to listen to music when I am in the garage.

It's the same finish that's used on the outside of the barn which lasts for lots of years. It will last even longer on the inside not exposed to weather.

I've got metal on the ceiling with R30 blown on top. It reflects light great and isn't acoustically harsh.

 

[classic boost]

I used the same 24" OC spacing as the exterior walls. Bottom 2x4 is treated and behind the plastic.

thanks diesel dan. the 2x4's are 4ft? where did you get the 4ft insulation.
where in ne ohio are you located? i'm in canton.

 

[Diesel Dan]

thanks diesel dan. the 2x4's are 4ft? where did you get the 4ft insulation.
where in ne ohio are you located? i'm in canton.

They are 2x4x16' and the insulation is 92.5" wide x 40' roll, R19.
Johns Manville PEBS Blanket, P19925. Bought it from the Morton builder just west of Massollin.

I'm just west of Warren, not too far.
PM me if you want to look at it some time.

 

[CPH628]

I have a 28 x 45 pole barn, Finished the walls with OSB after I insulated. Had the ceiling done with the same steel as the outside but in white. My height is 15' so I didn't want to hang rock and have to paint or maintain it. It is very reflective and bright. I like it. It also made for an easy insulation job. After the ceiling went in had it blown in to r30.

Charlie

 

[383 240z]

I was on the phone yesterday with the guys I bought my roofing from. They are getting me whats called liner panels. $1.60 a lf. With my math, even with the lower cost of OSB right now, it works out to $.26 a sq ft for steel, and $.25 per sq ft for OSB. If I go with the wood, I still have to paint it, install blocking between the trusses. Makes it a no brainer for me. I wont be using J-channel for the edeges. Just going to rip a bunch of 3/4" plywood into 3" strips that I will **** up against panels. My wiring will be run thru surface mounted EMT. Just need it to stop snowing. Supposed to get another foot or so today and tomorrow. Keith

 

[rburke65]

They can call them what ever they want, but those are Girts...... Purlins are perpendicular members to the roof trusses. Girts are on the side walls.

 

[Kevin54]

Classic and the others that wonder what is this called and that called http://www.barntoolbox.com/barn-glossary.htm All sorts of terminology on the link

Purlin - A horizontal structural roof member spanning between beams, rafters or trusses, and to which the roofing material (corrugated roofing or plywood and shingles) is attached. In post-frame construction industry, 2x4 SPF purlins are placed on top of trusses usually 24" o.c. to support metal roofing material.

Girt - A horizontal structural member in a framed wall. Girts resist lateral loads from wind and support wall cladding materials. Girts are supported by the columns and typically pass outside of one or more columns. In Timber-Frame construction it's a horizontal timber that connects posts.

 

[moparfreak]

This thread has a lot of great info. I too am going to be putting up a metal ceiling in about two weeks in my new garage/shop, about 1350 sqft of it. I got the Dura-Panel interior panels through Menards. Measured it out and had it custom cut based on the various shapes that make up my ceiling (divided into three main portions).

A number of the panels are 16' sections so I am thinking either a single drywall lift with some long pieces of angle to support the whole panel, or I can also get my hands on a second lift and use two lifts to support the bigger pieces at once.

Is it really necessary to pre-drill? Not that I don't want to do it right, but I would think that adds a lot of measure and prep time. The pole barn screws should be able to zip right through the stuff, and a 16' spacer block to line up the holes probably would make it go quick, no? I figure a lot of the adjustments to get everything to fit just right can be made by either increasing/decreasing overlap, or of course the trusty angle grinder w/ a straightedge to make rip and cross cuts to fine tune the fit.

One of the things I am struggling with is the junction boxes. I've got a couple ceiling outlets and a lot of circular light junction boxes to line up. It was mentioned already that pre-measuring sometimes doesn't yield the best of results. I was wondering about maybe using a piece of chalk to heavily mark up the edges of the junction box, put the panel into place, then bring it back down and there should be at least a faint-ish mark from the chalk exactly where the junction box is. Has anyone ever tried this type of approach? Maybe if the chalk doesn't make a good mark on the metal, some dykem dye? Just fishing for ideas.

As far as for cutting the holes for the electrical boxes, the round ones I was going to use the HVAC circular cutting tool for ducting, and of course aviation / tin snips. Fortunately even if the holes aren't perfect, they can be cut a touch oversized as the flourescent fixtures and outlet plates should cover gaps up.

Is there anything else I'm missing? I'm trying to get my ducks in a row here, get my J-channel installed and recruit a crew of 4-5 guys to get it all done in one Sunday. Am I crazy?

Thanks,
Adam

 

[Ross/Kzoo]

T
A number of the panels are 16' sections so I am thinking either a single drywall lift with some long pieces of angle to support the whole panel, or I can also get my hands on a second lift and use two lifts to support the bigger pieces at once.


One of the things I am struggling with is the junction boxes. I've got a couple ceiling outlets and a lot of circular light junction boxes to line up. It was mentioned already that pre-measuring sometimes doesn't yield the best of results. I was wondering about maybe using a piece of chalk to heavily mark up the edges of the junction box, put the panel into place, then bring it back down and there should be at least a faint-ish mark from the chalk exactly where the junction box is. Has anyone ever tried this type of approach? Maybe if the chalk doesn't make a good mark on the metal, some dykem dye? Just fishing for ideas.


Thanks,
Adam

I've heard that your wife's lipstick work real good.

 

[Farmall450]

Several people have said they prefer the look of steel over drywall. I'm one of them.

I am too, steel looks sweet! Brighter too!

 

[Flexia]

Anyone every use galvanized for the ceiling? I have been thinking of that since I think it would look good. But not sure if it would be to much galvanized metal. I am going for the industrial look in my garage and going to have some vapor proof lights installed too.

 

[jgeist]

Great info for sure...

 

[LennyTheLizard]

I used all white metal to finish out my shop, and I love it.

I installed three rows of flourescents along the length (way overkill), and the light really reflects off the white metal.

When working in there, about 85% of the time, I only turn on the center row of lights.

I paid to have the ceiling hung as I wasn't sure I could handle the 21' long sheets very well. But, I did all the walls (12') myself and it wasn't bad at all. Had one buddy help me do most of it, but I could actually put them up by myself (slow going).

 

[Lu-Max]

After seeing these well-done installations I'd also like to do a steel or aluminum ceiling in my new shop. But, I really hate fluorescent lighting and that seems to be what everyone with metal ceilings is using.

I was planning to use sheetrock with recessed light cans and high-ouput LED 'bulbs'. I would also prefer to not use light fixtures that hang below the ceiling unless they are nearly flush or very low-profile. They can't have fluorescent bulbs though, not for me.

Has anyone tried installing recessed cans into their metal ceiling or would it be too difficult?

 

[JCfreak]

Lu-Max,
I have used recess cans on R-panel. You have to match trim size to panel ribs. I used remodel cans and pre-wired all my drops. Cut your holes with a hole saw on the ground and pop the lights in as you go.

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks JCFreak

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

But, I really hate fluorescent lighting and that seems to be what everyone with metal ceilings is using.

Why do you hate fluorescent lighting?

 

[Lu-Max]

I have hearing damage from my time in the military. For some reason the frequency that fluorescent lights 'buzz' at causes weird harmonics in my ears which escalates into a headache usually within 10-20 minutes. It's difficult to describe but the sound is very unpleasant and quite loud.

 

[DCarr]

I did mine in metal and put a 4' x 3' door in it so Ialways had access to reun electrical or ?? and so that insulation could be blown in. no vaopr baiirer at the ceiling and no problems in 2 years now.

 

[little d]

Lu-Max,
if you do the recess lighting with the LED's please post it up, I know I would love to see it, thanks,
D

 

[wdrumheller]

I had metal ceiling installed in most of my barn, but my workshop I had drywalled. The metal ceiling is really bright and I had blown insulation put above it and I'm pleased.

 

[soj]

Anybody ever done this in a metal frame building?

I have a typical metal frame building with the plastic faced insulation batts pinched between the framing and the outside sheet metal. I know the insulation helps, but the roof purlins transfer a lot of heat from the roofing. I have been working near the roof on just a warm day and the purlins were almost too hot to touch. I have a packaged HVAC unit I want to install, but I don't think it will be able to cool it like it is.

So I am thinking I could fab up some kind of framing (hanging from the roof purlins) to mount a metal ceiling to, with additional insulation. In effect I would be creating a little mini attic, so I would probably need to provide for ventilation between the two layers of insulation.

I am open to ideas, esp. from someone who had done this or something similar.
-jp

 

[steinmj]

I'm looking at doing this durapanel on my shop ceiling. It looks like you have a plastic vapor barrier in addition to the kraft faced insulation. Is that necessary or extra insurance against moisture? Right now, I have kraft faced insulation up and i noticed some pretty heavy condensation when we would get an unseasonably warm day during the winter/spring. I live in a cold climate and it will be intermittently heated during the winter, thanks for the tips and awesome shop you got!

 

[86turbodsl]

Dad did drywall on his shop, 20 years later i did metal on mine. his is sagging. I'd do metal again in a heartbeat. Better for ceilings.

 

[onlyn8v]

Hi, I dont have a Menards near me. Does another on the East Coast have another supplier for the Dura-panel?

 

[rburke65]

Everyone 7 year old post, right?

 

[ekimneirbo]

I put metal on the ceiling in my pole barn and love it. Instead of J channel I just pushed the metal against the drywall on the end walls and brought the drywalls upper edge against the metal ceiling on the side walls. Then I sprayed a foam barrier on the attic side of the metal ceiling. About $600 for a tank of spray foam on ebay and super easy to install with the attached nozzle. Might need two tanks. That seals any air movement between the panels and the panels and wall. Then blow insulation in the attic to whatever depth you want.
As for installing the metal, I used a homemade scaffold made from pallet racking. Then I made a simple bracket that hooked over a rafter and supported one end of the metal. Then I aligned the metal and put a screw in the unsupported end. Then just start screwing the metal in place. My trusses are on 6' centers so I used 14' sheets. Stop and put your wiring for lights in place as you add the panels.

 

[ekimneirbo]

Anybody ever done this in a metal frame building?

I have a typical metal frame building with the plastic faced insulation batts pinched between the framing and the outside sheet metal. I know the insulation helps, but the roof purlins transfer a lot of heat from the roofing. I have been working near the roof on just a warm day and the purlins were almost too hot to touch. I have a packaged HVAC unit I want to install, but I don't think it will be able to cool it like it is.

So I am thinking I could fab up some kind of framing (hanging from the roof purlins) to mount a metal ceiling to, with additional insulation. In effect I would be creating a little mini attic, so I would probably need to provide for ventilation between the two layers of insulation.

I am open to ideas, esp. from someone who had done this or something similar.
-jp

Check and see if they can't just spray foam directly to the bottom side of your roof. From what you said, I think you are saying there isn't a ceiling, just the actual roof.

 

[tonyciambrone]

Menards isn't located on the east coast?

Does corrugated metal exist elsewhere?

Anyone from half a decade ago still need advice on ceiling panels?

Is it better to revive old threads or recreate them?

 

[onlyn8v]

No, They are not.

It might, but not in the advertised thickness Menards has for interior panels

I do, thats why I bumped it

Of all the forums I am on, They prefer to revive if there is a question. However, to appease you, I will create a new thread....

 

[Raisedonadeere]

I think most of the metal roofs are on a 48" OC and take into account snow load. I don't think you would have a sag problem with 24" centers. The panel ribs should be perpendicular to the ceiling joists.

My 24'x36" stick build garage, vinyl siding to match house, and metal roof build will begin this coming week. Contract signed. I jumped on a rare opportunity of a builder available to build this at good cost so did not have the luxury of working with him over time to get some details decided with the best of research. I opted to add the cost of trusses that would allow low headroom storage floor space in ceiling but did not go for 2' centers, they are 4' centers. I diy the finish out of the inside including electrical, insulation and, - - the building will have vented soffits and roof ridge vent.

I went that route because of recalling about these metal ceilings and intuitively thought that ribbed metal would support blown in cellulose insulation over a 4' span. I was winging it as some would say.

Anyway that is what I have. On this thread it seems that there was some question on 2" centers so that has me thinking I may have to do something to deal with sag potential.

Any thoughts on selection of material? I am thinking that for sure the soffit material would not span 4', but what about corrugated or the 5 rib stuff. Also any smart ways to hang stiffeners.

 

[Bert_]

The normal corrugated metal will span 4 feet no problem. Profiles with deeper ribs can span even farther.

 

[Raisedonadeere]

The normal corrugated metal will span 4 feet no problem. Profiles with deeper ribs can span even farther.

Thanks Bert. That’s fantastic to know. A conditioned space appears to be within my reach. Now I have to figure out the gotchas doing electrical up there over this metal ceiling like: - can Romex lay along the metal or do I need to create a chase

 

[Bcunning]

I used aluminum soffit - 16" W x 10' L panels. They are very light and were easy to install by myself. I used 6" insulation batts and a 6mm vapour barrier.

PC06 wondering how you handled your seams I'm having trouble with mine. Did you run double back J (H channel) to receive each end of the panels, or did you overlap? If overlap, did you use sheers or reverse saw blade? Did you have to notch out the thick receiving tab of the bottom panel so the top panel lays flat? Again I'm having trouble w the cuts and panels not laying flat, and am now considering running H to make 2 ceiling sections but would prefer a single install. Thanks!