Millermatic 200: What to do..

[Keyblazer]

My current MIG is a Snapon MMSL140. A 110v unit, so maxed out at 140a.
I needed something beefier for some heavier welding.

So I picked up a Millermatic 200...
I heard they were solid, reliable welders.
This one was cheap, as it is rough, and missing parts.
That’s ok, I like cheap stuff, and bringing stuff back from the dead.
Fun stuff for me, as anyone who follows my thread will know!
My first look at it, I spotted...No power cord, no torch, or ground clamp, or gauges.
So that’s like a couple of hundred bucks... I’m ok with that.
But today I took a deeper dive and pulled the main cover off.
First thing I spotted was the wire feed drive motor is MIA. Ugh.
My research says that part might be NLA.
Trying to figure out if I can make it good again.
Anyone know these well?

 

[davo727]

I bet someone on one of these forums knows:


https://weldingweb.com/vbb/forums/16-Miller?

https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum

 

[Terry D]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937493278...i=&campaignid=11614425326&mkgroupid=114834329

Dont know if this is the one you need, but they are on Ebay and Amazon


This might be helpful for the actual part number

https://www.millerserviceparts.com/en/

That looks to be a 1988 model

https://www.millerwelds.com/support/serial-number-chart


Hope it all works for you, looks like this might have been a parts machine.

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks guys!
Applied to join the Miller forum but not been approved to post yet.
Will get on the welding web today.
1988? Cool!
I found the manual for it last night and downloaded, so that’s a help.

Yes, my gut was it may have been cannibalized a bit too.
Maybe it’s just the wire feed motor, that went bad...
There looks like a plug on the front that’s missing but that’s available for $18.
I’m ok with spending some $ to bring it back, but it’s a tricky one.
The internals look to be all there, but really I don’t know what I’m looking at yet.

I have the part number for the wire feed motor but a search gives no info.
Will add the part number in a bit, but the notation next to the part number says 1/2hp 115v dc, so different to the one on eBay, but thanks. If a replacement is $160, I could stomach that.
I read somewhere it might be the same as a Hobart part.
Will get some better pics and dig a little deeper today.
Adding a couple of pics.

This is how the power cable was cut... I need to get like 20' of it and replace.

Two loose wires... maybe for the spot timer attachment?

View of the guts... Noting missing wire feed motor, and CO2 gas feed pipe is cut...

Wire feed rollers are there and when I manually turn the gears, they rotate fine.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you are planning on doing aluminum in the future, You may just want to buy a spool gun and load it with "steel" wire.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I read somewhere it might be the same as a Hobart part.

Hobart and Miller have the same parent company, but I don't know if they "mix" parts. The Hobart spool gun costs a lot less than a Miller !

 

[Keyblazer]

Good info.
I have a snapon spool gun loaded with aluminum for my Musclemig, and a scratch TiG torch too. I also have an Eastwood 200 TiG.
I’m thinking to keep this thing for the 1/4, 3/8/, 1/2 steel that I sometimes do.
The manual mentions the “Spoolmatic 3” plugs into the front panel but been unable to find one for sale.
I thought about parting it out to get my money back, but weirdly, there are no used parts for sale on eBay for reference.
Does that mean there is no interest or that people just keep fixing these? Lol

 

[Keyblazer]

The Manual states that the wirefeed motor is part # 113 688.

None of the Miller sites can find that number.

 

[welder4956]

The Manual states that the wirefeed motor is part # 113 688.

None of the Miller sites can find that number.

Call your local welding supply and see if there is a new part number for the replacement motor. If they are no help, call Miller and ask them. Phone number is 920-734-9821.

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks so much!

 

[oldmachinenut]

I have a Millermatic 200, they are tanks. There is a member, Cruiser on the Miller forum that could give you some advice in the drive motor.

 

[rustyjames]

I first learned mig on a Miller 200 in Vo Tech back around 1980. I think that's about the time they came out with them. Most body shops in those days were either brazing or gas welding.

 

[Keyblazer]

Posted a thread on Welding Web... nobody awake yet...
Miller Forum still not approved me to post... Dang it guys, don't you work weekends???

Anyway, gave the unit a deeper look today.
I’m actually ok with it... even if I end up upside down...
She’s rough, but not the first time in my life I’ve had fun with something rough...
My Lenco Panel Spotter spot welder, I’m talking about...

Outside pics.

 

[Keyblazer]

Now, notice the missing plugs stuff here.
Working on figuring the missing parts out.

 

[nadogail]

How were you able to tryout the machine before you laid your money down?

 

[MoonRise]

The 'stuff' missing on the front panel is listed in the manual.

The 'high' item stuff is a duplicate of the stuff in the 'low' spot. To change the arc voltage ranges for welding parameters, you put the (missing) cable that comes 'out' of the place on the panel labeled "VOLTAGE RANGE" and plug that missing cable jack into either the "HIGH" receptacle (missing) for 20-30V arc output or the "LOW" receptacle for 10-20V arc voltage output. And then you adjust the big dial Voltage switch (do NOT adjust that switch while welding, or you WILL fry something!) to get your desired arc voltage.

See Page #58-59 in the manual for the Front Panel picture and parts.

https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O1303L_MIL.pdf

In addition to the missing wire drive motor, I'd look VERY closely into/at the machine's circuit boards and check them VERY carefully before sinking any more time and money into trying to fix up that cannibalized machine. Especially any capacitors on the circuit boards and the 'main' diodes (Page #61, Item #6, P/N 037 957, QTY=2). No 'main' power diodes and the machine will NOT run.

 

[marinusdees]

There's a reason that machine has been cannibalized. You don't do that to a working welder. All the electronics are suspect, probably not repairable and obsolete. I think I'd not throw more money at it, but that's just me.

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks Moonrise!
Yes, I have begun figuring it out a bit!

To address the Elephant in the room....
No, I didn't test or inspect the machine before I bought.
I was not aware it had been cannibalized until I picked it up...

Now, I can FEEL your eyes rolling back in your skulls, and I accept my licking as a man... LOL
But the thing is, if you go read my other thread "Whats going on in my little Garage", you might get a feel for what floats my boat, more than judging me on this one buy..
The truth is more complex than paying money for the welder and being out of pocket...
I bought a bunch of stuff that week.... some tools I needed and some I didnt, and bought because they were a deal...
By that I mean once I factor in what I bought, that I need, and calculate the cost in the open market that I would have paid for that item/items... I have a number.
Then I factor in the tools that I got I can flip..... I have a number...
What I add those two together, I am at a net zero...
The bottom line is that this Millermatic 200, by the numbers was FREE.

Yes, those with a business mind will groan and grumble...
But if this Business Model doesn't make sense to you, I'm ok with that!
Go to my thread... Read... you might get the sense I am masochistic... and youd be right there too!
I buy old tools, invest time and money, and have fun doing it!
Sometimes I turn a profit(if we are talking $), sometimes I don't.
But there is tremendous personal satisfaction in taking junk and making it work for you, to make cool stuff!

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=403443

 

[Keyblazer]

So, lets say the wire feed motor went bad...
It was removed, and they looked for a replacement...
Like me the found on the face of it, it’s NLA.
The unit was pushed into a corner... later, the power cord was cut off(maybe for safety). Seen it done. Then later again someone took the Hi/Lo cord/connector.

It’s possible.
I can see nothing missing/wrong with the power boards or capacitors... but maybe I don’t know what I’m looking at!

I do agree that it could be junk...
If I can solve the wire feed motor issue... find a NOS unit or different replacement, I can move on to the next issue which is the Hi/Lo connectors.
Miller for less lists most of the assembly for $75.

I planned to call Miller today, but whilst picking up some tools, someone ran a red, and modified the front of my Vw...

 

[rustyjames]

Ouch on the VW, but it doesn't look like there's any structural damage. Nice ride too.

 

[Keyblazer]

Nope, but The AAA approved repair facility came back with a $4500 estimate, using USED parts!

 

[TractorJeff]

On Welding Web, there will be a Thread with the address for a place in Kentucky that repairs the Circuit Boards WAY CHEAPER THAN any place else.

 

[jdsac]

I'd think twice about trying to fix it. Looks like it was replaced at some point and used for parts. Take your time, a good one will come along

 

[Keyblazer]

I'm gonna try to fix it, or if I fail, part it out.

 

[Keyblazer]

Reached out to a guy that parts these out for a wirefeed motor..
Lets see what he has!
I have pretty much located everything else I would need.
The project will hinge on that motor...

In the meantime, if I need a powercord, how do I find ask for that?
I see from the pictures it is a 4 wire cable, and Miller says 60a max and suggests 8 gauge.
I dont know how to ask for/price a cable like that...
Is it 8/4, or some specific terminology?

 

[Keyblazer]

Guy came back and said he has 2 motors for that era welder...
A 2 wire and a 5 wire...
I think mine is a 2 wire, because I only see 2 wires that are unattached, and one of them goes into the pop circuit breaker that is accessible in the wire feed cabinet just above the wire fee mechanism...
The two wires have an arrow and a number on them and show signs in the spade of being connected to something in the past...
One is labeled 3 and the other is 23...

Just got off the Phone with Miller...
They confirmed that my serial number used a 2 wire motor!
Also, I was wondering if those wires were correct because they were so small, for a 1/2hp motor... He confirmed its actually a 1/20th hp 115VDC motor!

 

[pancho400cid]

Does Miller offer a wiring diagram? I'd get one if so.

Good Luck with the project!

 

[Keyblazer]

There is one in the Miller Owners Manual, but I'm to dumb to understand it, or so I thought


Then there on page 48, I see it!
Drive motor with 2 wires, one is labeled 3 and the other 23... LOL

 

[Firebrick43]

Pull that motor and see if it has a tag on the frame of it. It sure looks like a bodine dc motor to me

 

[Keyblazer]

Sadly, the motor is gone.... You can see the spot where it was in the background of pic 3 post #26...

 

[Jagmandave]

Is that a three phase voltage welder? 230/460V?

 

[Firebrick43]

I see, i was thinking I was seeing the output end. Even still it was a dc motor. turn the shaft and figure out the gear ratios, the mounting bolts size, and the gearbox output shaft dimentions and you can match it up to one of bodines offerings.

 

[Keyblazer]

230/460 single phase.

I’m hoping the used motor is good and affordable.
Still not got approved to post in Miller forum.
Frustrating.

 

[Daveyclimber]

Check out govplanet.com there is a 200 on there now

 

[nutjob]

Is that a three phase voltage welder? 230/460V?

230/460 single phase.
.

I am not convinced it is 1 phase. 230/460 usually indicates 3 phase, the 4 wire power cord might indicate 3 phase.

The owners manual for that serial number does say it is single phase but the wiring diagram shows 3 wire power cord. L1 L2 and ground.

If this was mine I would do some more research before spending anything on this.

By the way, my brother and I purchased a 200 new back in the 80's and it is a great welder so I hope you can get it working.

Kevin

 

[Terry D]

230/460 single phase.

I’m hoping the used motor is good and affordable.
Still not got approved to post in Miller forum.
Frustrating.

460 is not a single phase voltage unless it is using just 2 hots. Are you positive its not a 3 phase machine. If you are sure it is a 4 wire power cord, that sounds like 3 hots and a ground. I would look inside that welder and see where the leads from the cord connects, and count the terminals.

Edit - I just looked at the picture of the plate again and it does say single phase, its just strange with the 4 wire cord and saying 460 volts

 

[Keyblazer]

Ok. Interesting.
The plate on the front of the welder clearly says 230/460 but single phase.
The cable is 4 wire where it was cut off, but...
When I traced the wires inside the machine I only see 3 connected. The red wire does not emerge from the other end anywhere I could see.
Gotta do it anyway, so I will cut the power cord out and report back!

 

[Keyblazer]

Ok. Here is the answer to that one.
Good to know and thanks for flagging that up!
Jumpers to check!
https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/22844-Converting-MM200-back-to-230v

 

[Terry D]

Ok. Here is the answer to that one.
Good to know and thanks for flagging that up!
Jumpers to check!
https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/22844-Converting-MM200-back-to-230v

Makes sense, someone just had a cord on there with a extra wire. The welder is single phase ( 2 hots and a ground ) you would just need to have your jumpers set for 230 volt ( it is actually 240 volt)

 

[Keyblazer]

Onto that subject of the power cord...
so I will need a new one.
3 wire, 8 gauge... prob need 20’...
How do I search for that?