Walkers
Well-known member
And???
Millermatic 200: What to do..
- Thread starter Keyblazer
- Start date
Hi!
Well I’ve been working on it slowly between other projects.
I swapped the wires on the power switch to correspond to how it was wired before and how other pics of mm200s look… white on top connector and black on lower… and the power cord plug is on now.
I got the missing yellow high/low Jack plug installed in the front plate.
Searched everywhere for a stain relief bushing for it, and found something I thought would work. But had to add a washer to get it to clamp on the front face plate better.
Bad pic I took after I degreased and scrubbed the face plate… forgot to take an after pic. What looks like rust is just simple green, first, and grease… Will do today.
Once I had that in, I had to figure out where it connected to inside.
Wiring diagrams didn’t help me, so after searching the internet for a bit I found some pics that showed a wire attached to this component that my welder was missing.
The bolt on the red part to the right of the wire in my hand… and it was loose…
On it went.
I’m getting pretty close now, as everything looks like it’s ready… but I guess I am a little nervous to plug it in!!!
All I’m missing now is a Ground wire.
I think I might rob one off my other welder for now, but
What gauge should I look for?
Well I’ve been working on it slowly between other projects.
I swapped the wires on the power switch to correspond to how it was wired before and how other pics of mm200s look… white on top connector and black on lower… and the power cord plug is on now.
I got the missing yellow high/low Jack plug installed in the front plate.
Searched everywhere for a stain relief bushing for it, and found something I thought would work. But had to add a washer to get it to clamp on the front face plate better.
Bad pic I took after I degreased and scrubbed the face plate… forgot to take an after pic. What looks like rust is just simple green, first, and grease… Will do today.
Once I had that in, I had to figure out where it connected to inside.
Wiring diagrams didn’t help me, so after searching the internet for a bit I found some pics that showed a wire attached to this component that my welder was missing.
The bolt on the red part to the right of the wire in my hand… and it was loose…
On it went.
I’m getting pretty close now, as everything looks like it’s ready… but I guess I am a little nervous to plug it in!!!
All I’m missing now is a Ground wire.
I think I might rob one off my other welder for now, but
What gauge should I look for?
Zeke
Well-known member
Always good to match the gauge of existing power feed wires. But welders don't usually use neutrals. It is grounded by the power cord which consists of 2 hots and a ground. Not a bad idea to ground your welding table to the shop ground if available. I guess you can run a jumper from the welder chassis to a known ground. I never have.
And maybe you're asking about the power cord itself. Of course that has to be one cord with all current carrying wires in one cord. They will be equal. 10-2 with ground is sufficient for that welder.
Note: I posted this just to see if I'm on point. If I'm wrong about any aspect I'm sure others will let me know.
And maybe you're asking about the power cord itself. Of course that has to be one cord with all current carrying wires in one cord. They will be equal. 10-2 with ground is sufficient for that welder.
Note: I posted this just to see if I'm on point. If I'm wrong about any aspect I'm sure others will let me know.
Zeke
Well-known member
Well again, that should be equal or greater than the lead in the gun hose. Any LWS will have rolls of it. You want fine stranded for flexibility so it might not be on the rack at the box store.
Update time!
Checked all my wiring again…
This is how it looks now.
This is how my hi/lo cable looks with the strain relief… not 100% happy with it yet… might 3D print an adaptor for the hole, but it will work for now.
Everything looked good… but I still don’t have a welding ground clamp setup.
It’s $70 at least for the cable…
Prob best I check if it maybe works now as I’m ready…
So I just went for it….
Turned off the breaker…
Made sure the welder main switch was off...
Plugged her into my 220v outlet…
Went and turned breaker on… no noise… or smoke….
Turned the welder main switch on with trepidation…. And a wooden stick….
No smoke, no fire… just a slight hum….
Squeezed the trigger on the gun…
Wire feed motor engaged…. And roller turned as it should!
I think she’s alive!!!!
Only thing I’m concerned about is no rear fan engagement.
It it on a thermostat?
Checked all my wiring again…
This is how it looks now.
This is how my hi/lo cable looks with the strain relief… not 100% happy with it yet… might 3D print an adaptor for the hole, but it will work for now.
Everything looked good… but I still don’t have a welding ground clamp setup.
It’s $70 at least for the cable…
Prob best I check if it maybe works now as I’m ready…
So I just went for it….
Turned off the breaker…
Made sure the welder main switch was off...
Plugged her into my 220v outlet…
Went and turned breaker on… no noise… or smoke….
Turned the welder main switch on with trepidation…. And a wooden stick….
No smoke, no fire… just a slight hum….
Squeezed the trigger on the gun…
Wire feed motor engaged…. And roller turned as it should!
I think she’s alive!!!!
Only thing I’m concerned about is no rear fan engagement.
It it on a thermostat?
Well…
Threw a spool of .035” in… I was feeding GREAT!
Got a ground cable from my other welder, and got that connected...
Went for it...
And....
ITS ALIVE!!!!
Quick bead on some 18g.
Then cranked it up on some 3/8.
Yeah, I know the welds aren't the greatest, but I think it’s me, not the welder.
Need some time to dial it in…. But I’m feeling pretty good about it!
Now I’m convinced it’s not a lost cause…
I’m gonna get to the tins… a little hammer and dolly work to dress out the dings will make me, and her feel better…
Tried a couple of colors to see what was close to the original Miller shade…
Rustoleum Sail Blue was closest, but I not convinced yet...
Might go a little custom….
Threw a spool of .035” in… I was feeding GREAT!
Got a ground cable from my other welder, and got that connected...
Went for it...
And....
ITS ALIVE!!!!
Quick bead on some 18g.
Then cranked it up on some 3/8.
Yeah, I know the welds aren't the greatest, but I think it’s me, not the welder.
Need some time to dial it in…. But I’m feeling pretty good about it!
Now I’m convinced it’s not a lost cause…
I’m gonna get to the tins… a little hammer and dolly work to dress out the dings will make me, and her feel better…
Tried a couple of colors to see what was close to the original Miller shade…
Rustoleum Sail Blue was closest, but I not convinced yet...
Might go a little custom….
Last edited:
jbfsr
Well-known member
great job. been watching.
nice save . you deserve a thumbs up for that ! 
Zeke
Well-known member
Great! You'll find an old ground clamp somewhere if you are patient and keep looking. Old welders do die, just not this one. Try the auto parts swap in Long Beach.
He deserves a 'you ****'.nice save . you deserve a thumbs up for that !
Last edited:
American Locomotive
Well-known member
Pretty sure the fan should always be running. Might just be gummed up from sitting so long.
Mmm
Lincoln Welder Control Plates & Decals, Miller Welders Control Plates & Decals, Welding Helmets, Welding Decals, Hobart Welders, Factory Authorized - Millermatic 200 Decal Set
Premier Manufacturer and Refurbishes Obsolete Electric Welder and Machinery Control Plates for Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, Canox, Thermo Arc and Airco Electric Welding Machines.
welderplates.com
Walkers
Well-known member
Congratulations, I am glad it all worked out for you. You can order new miller stickers on eBay.
Zeke
Well-known member
I've never had much success reattaching stickers. I'll bet replacements are easy to come by.
Is there a Cricut thread here somewhere?
Well, I found my Rustoleum Safety blue!
And some other paint for the Lenco Spot Welder I’m also restoring.
It looks pretty close to the Sail Blue but safety blue is close to Miller blue.
Took a pic of the Lenco timer control and imported it into Cricut software.
After some work I got this far.
Learning.
Well, I found my Rustoleum Safety blue!
And some other paint for the Lenco Spot Welder I’m also restoring.
It looks pretty close to the Sail Blue but safety blue is close to Miller blue.
Took a pic of the Lenco timer control and imported it into Cricut software.
After some work I got this far.
Learning.
oldmachinenut
Well-known member
Thanks for posting this, these decals were NLA from Miller when I did my MM200Decals arrived!
Decals are good but some things bug me now I look.
The lettering is displaced to the left, and so doesn’t line up with the white Miller logo above them, like the originals.
Right end is also not a perfect half round…
So I started playing with the decal on the Cricut software.
Not great pics, but this took me about an hour as I’ve never done something like this before…
Two slightly different versions.
I didn’t have measurements to hand, so they are not “Dimensionally correct”, but visually and proportionally better than the decals I bought to my eye.
The second font I used has a slight italic tilt to the right so looks a little,,,, racier….
Today I will get some accurate dimensions and rejig them a bit… then I might do a test cut!
My intention is to do a stencil and paint the logos on, rather than decals.
I’m thinking lay down the blue first(maybe a metallic automotive paint), then the white, and black with appropriate masking, then some clear on top.
The lettering is displaced to the left, and so doesn’t line up with the white Miller logo above them, like the originals.
Right end is also not a perfect half round…
So I started playing with the decal on the Cricut software.
Not great pics, but this took me about an hour as I’ve never done something like this before…
Two slightly different versions.
I didn’t have measurements to hand, so they are not “Dimensionally correct”, but visually and proportionally better than the decals I bought to my eye.
The second font I used has a slight italic tilt to the right so looks a little,,,, racier….
Today I will get some accurate dimensions and rejig them a bit… then I might do a test cut!
My intention is to do a stencil and paint the logos on, rather than decals.
I’m thinking lay down the blue first(maybe a metallic automotive paint), then the white, and black with appropriate masking, then some clear on top.
was it Fred Flinstone that used to say, "That's greaaatttttt"
I could not for the life of me get the chevrons… that’s the right description… angled enough in the Cricut software to look like that 30+ year old Miller Logo…
Good enough I suppose…
Then I found that I need a 24x12 Matt to cut the logo… it’s 6x 21.5” so can’t ever fit 2 on a sheet vertically, cos I guess I will loose the border I need to keep the stencil strong/stiff enough to stay straight.
Cutting Matt is it’s ordered now,
Will be here in a couple of days… kinda fun but I’m total green at this… doing my best!
Good enough I suppose…
Then I found that I need a 24x12 Matt to cut the logo… it’s 6x 21.5” so can’t ever fit 2 on a sheet vertically, cos I guess I will loose the border I need to keep the stencil strong/stiff enough to stay straight.
Cutting Matt is it’s ordered now,
Will be here in a couple of days… kinda fun but I’m total green at this… doing my best!
Zeke
Well-known member
They are simply too large or too long. I'm thinking too long.
oldmachinenut
Well-known member
Walkers
Well-known member
Common guys! you are going to make me have to paint and decal my old machine now!
oldmachinenut
Well-known member
Sorry
Tired of seeing it taking up space and being ugly.
Wasn’t happy with my test piece side panel…
The Rustoleum safety blue was wrinkled and the panel was bowed.
Broke out the DA, stripped the paint…
Then learned how to use a shrinking disc…
Primed and repainted.
Wasn’t happy with my test piece side panel…
The Rustoleum safety blue was wrinkled and the panel was bowed.
Broke out the DA, stripped the paint…
Then learned how to use a shrinking disc…
Primed and repainted.
Attachments
Zeke
Well-known member
Looks dipped. That's a purdy welder.