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Millermatic 200: What to do..

Terry D

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Onto that subject of the power cord...
so I will need a new one.
3 wire, 8 gauge... prob need 20’...
How do I search for that?
If you have a electrical supply house by you, that might be your best bet. Or do a search for a 8/3 SOOW cord. I would suggest to get the cord and possibly power the thing up before buying the feed motor, you should be able to check for power on the motor leads by pulling the trigger. If there is no voltage, you have other problems.

I would think a 6-50p for the plug

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
 
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marinusdees

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Go to the hardware store, buy 20' of 8 gauge rubber covered wire and a plug configured to your outlet and make one. Helluva lot simpler than searching for an assembled cord.
 

nutjob

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Reached out to a guy that parts these out for a wirefeed motor..
Lets see what he has!

In the meantime, if I need a powercord, how do I find ask for that?

Ask the same guy for a 200 power cord. That way it comes with the correct terminals crimped on and correct plug.

Miller had a optional 20' cord for these, we had purchased this with the welder. I bet the old man still has the original cord stashed away somewhere, sorry but no way to go check for awhile

Kevin
 

snyder

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I have the miller 140 , the wire feed motor in it interchanges with a small
Dayton brand gear motor. I bet you could look on grainger and find one to fit your 200.
 
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Keyblazer

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Searched and searched and could not find a Dayton that had the spec I need.

Been talking to the used part guy...
We confirmed this particular Welder SN was a 2 wire feed motor... the rarer and more fragile version.
The guy says that the better 5 wire motor can be retrofitted, but I'm awaiting his pricing and then wiring or conversion instructions..
Will update when I know!
 
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Keyblazer

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Update time!
I found the correct wire drive motor!
Should have it and some of the other missing parts soon!
 

Norcal

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Don't know if it has been mentioned as I scanned by some of the posts but the data plate says it is a 230/460V single phase machine, I would make sure the taps are set for the correct voltage.
 
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Keyblazer

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Finally got the parts in to fix(hopefully!).
Thanks to Dave from McCulloough Electric, in Ga reached out to me to say they had a NOS unit on the shelf.
He agreed to sell to me for a very fair price, so I bought it, and a few other parts, and they arrived today!
Excited I am!
Love bringing good old stuff back to life!
Here is what was in the box.
626186C9-E644-4EE7-9385-1F5A784802C3.jpeg
 
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Keyblazer

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Here is the plate on the drive motor for reference. FD845AFB-0FD8-437F-A499-9F97E73FEC84.jpeg

Already had a new 250a Mig gun on hand ready.
33024190-D3D8-4B0F-80A5-E376A6F55352.jpeg

Snagged these Miller Decals for if I decide to repaint…
BBC54845-45E0-4D67-8445-9A2CE96D1AF7.jpeg
 

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
Best wishes for success with your Welder Project, I have found that Stick Welders, like the Miller Thunderbolt, seldom break and are easily repaired.
 

ycgoat

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For a cord, I would make one. There is a Millermatic 250 for sale on public surplus but it is on the East Coast
 

Norcal

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I took the OEM cord off my MillerMatic 251, and replaced it with a longer cord & a pin & sleeve plug.
 
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Keyblazer

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Thanks guys.
The cord I was supplied is about 10’, and I have an extension cord too so that will be fine.
I have to find some strain relief grommets for the front panel.
Hope to get into this in the next couple of weeks.
 
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Keyblazer

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Some progress.
Started with removing the old power cord
99B72D5F-81FC-45F1-B1BA-3024BEA58563.jpeg

Original cable was a 4 wire, so colors were no help.

Then I got into removing the old wire feed gearbox.
Drove the wire drive wheel off the gearbox output shaft, and managed to get the gearbox sun out
3FC9D099-91D5-4B32-A7D4-6F6EF9CA1E36.jpeg

New, and what’s left of old gearbox.
8543F656-B9DE-4793-9F42-08E580115988.jpeg
E579E53E-332D-466E-A35B-B4B519A9CED5.jpeg
538D2244-8229-4ED9-9BAB-FEAB668B0E22.jpeg

Had to remove the gearbox/drive support plate as 2 mounting screws as they were hidden under the wire drive mechanism.
 

Walkers

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Cave Creek Az
I have a MM200. I bought it from the guy who taught me to weld when I was a kid, and he bought it new. Wire drive is about the only weak link on them. Capacitor banks are very old by now as well, you will want to replace those if you can get the machine going. Go on the millerwelds.com site and download the manual for your serial number. You will need it so you know how to position the jumpers on the reconnect board BEFORE YOU PLUG IT IN. I also assume you are going to clean all the old grease out of the transmission and re grease it before you bolt the motor on. When you are reworking the connections, the voltage selector gets stiff and benefits from some lube. The contacts benefit from cleaning with some fine sand paper as well, then loosen, wire brush, tighten each tap connection. Be careful with the voltage selector, as it is made from unobtainium, though it is fairly stout.

Cruizer hasn’t been around the Miller board for a while. Head on over to Weldingweb.com and register there. There are several guy who are real pros with this machine, and there are a lot of MM200 repair threads there as well.
 
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Keyblazer

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Thanks for the input!
The wire feed motor is brand new, still had the gearbox shipping plug in it. I took it out and some oil/grease came out. I was a little puzzled and concerned that the hole, that I assume is also a vent faces up, therefore allowing dirt to fall in longer term.
Someone else mentioned the voltage selector, and I think I saw it… looks like a Bakelite strip with 3 bolts on it… I will take a pic.
 

Norcal

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Thanks for the input!
The wire feed motor is brand new, still had the gearbox shipping plug in it. I took it out and some oil/grease came out. I was a little puzzled and concerned that the hole, that I assume is also a vent faces up, therefore allowing dirt to fall in longer term.
Someone else mentioned the voltage selector, and I think I saw it… looks like a Bakelite strip with 3 bolts on it… I will take a pic.
The item is shown in post #59, first photo, a clear view is obscured by a wire harness in front of it
 
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Keyblazer

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Here is how we look today.
Wire drive motor in, but I gotta figure out wiring.
New power cord pulled thru.
E3E8E518-56C2-4860-879E-D6F20CC828B7.jpeg

And connected.
Can someone confirm I have it wired right at the switch?
84C0D63C-392C-4804-9405-3A34A1A97A74.jpeg312DE65E-A525-4B95-84B8-DB02B145FD5C.jpeg
And there is the Voltage selector... but of course the label is long gone and the manual just shows it and says confirm with the lable!
Anyone?


Also the welding gas tube is brokenn and patched...
I would prefer to replace it..
Anyone care to tell me what would work well for CO2/Argon mix?

0ACD268A-22B3-4EEE-9770-7576380ABF59.jpeg
 
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Walkers

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It looks to me like your primary reconnect board is missing some pins. Get that squared away first and then turn it on and make sure the machine is going to function. The hose is a standard item at any LWS. Might check your solenoid valve functions too.
 

Walkers

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This reconnect drawing should help you.
Since your is a 230/460 unit it looks like you should move your jumper to the left.
62374FAD-E463-499C-A9A1-2B94F61CCAFF.png
 
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Keyblazer

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Thanks for that!
I guess I dont understand what I am looking at...
My Voltage selector, has 5 holes... so like the 3rd row of examples in the manual posted.
The picture of my welder has a bolt in hole #2... and a brideged pair in holes #3 and #4...
That doesn't correspond with ANY of the voltages shown....
AND I only have 3 bolts...
I have no clue what this means... maybe the manual posted, is a different serial # to mine?
Let me post what the manual for my serial number shows tomorrow...
 

Walkers

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I believe they used the same red card for all of the reconnect scenarios over all years of the machine. So don’t count empty holes as they mean nothing, just the little brass studs. In that instance it works out just fine.
 
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Keyblazer

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Lovely looking unit!
With the spot/stitch timer too!
Cool!
My current HD welder is a Snap-On Muscle Mig 250, and it comes as standard with the spot/stitch module.
3BFF49A7-01D5-4B96-A5FE-D634A4B42D3A.jpeg9F37126F-01D9-49B8-AEEF-5C086776DE66.jpeg

With the Millermatic 200…
EE24239F-F427-4C0E-B47E-AB22EA719574.jpeg
 

justsam

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Penngrove, California
Please confirm the proper terminals on that power switch before using the unit. I suspect that is a Double Pole/Single Throw switch. (DPST). Disconnect wiring from it and use an Ohmmeter to check the proper terminals. Depending on what you find, your wiring may be exactly right, or you may be putting a direct short across your 240 VAC input, when the switch is thrown.
 
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Keyblazer

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Thanks, I get it now.
I will remove the jumper and get that all cleaned up.
Need to do and investigation on the switch before I go much further.
 
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Keyblazer

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Spent some time figuring out the wiring for the wire drive motor.
It has a white wire and a black wire, and both have a male spade connector.
There are two black wires hanging loose near there, both have female spade connectors, so I guessed they were the deal.
Closer inspection found the wires are marked “23” and “3”.

16D76703-78F8-4F9B-AA30-079F950F01B9.jpeg98B44344-1553-4939-834A-A33DEAEDFEDC.jpeg

Looked in the Miller manual…

44C57FC7-05D8-49E7-A4C5-1E12F29555A8.jpeg

Wired white to 3 and black to 23.

7BBC2D54-7805-4F94-80E0-386541DD9C30.jpeg
 
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