don't forget the japanese ones
there are some good opportunities like these:
*click!*,
*click!* and
*click!*.
Not really had access, so wouldn't know which brands to look into.
FWIW, the first link reminds me of the Diamalloy/Xcelite type I mentioned in the previous post due to the spring (
pic for comparison; click on the large/300.jpg for more detail). The stamped steel type in the second and third links, remind me of
Piergiacomi (these get rebranded, including as Wiha) and
Xuron.
The second and third pics also remind me of
Hakko's cutters & pliers, which were the only Japanese brand I was directly familiar with for electronics (Amazon sells them;
cutters,
pliers).
hey nanofrog, great info!
Well, I do use these things daily, so I've used quite a few (and gotten pissed off a lot of them too, as they ended up as garbage, and I'm not talking about $5 el-cheapo specials from the flea market sites such as eBay).
To tell the truth, when I got my Swanstrom needle nose they were used and the teeth, which are simply perpendicular to the jaws, were already used up pretty good. So, in all fairness, I suppose I can not comment on how hard the steel is b/c I do not know....but the construction, fit and finish are top notch. The pivot is some kind of sealed bearing held in with a Torx screw...real fancy and smooth as wet ice on wet ice.
Regarding the joint, it's a new take on a lap joint, where they use CNC machines to cut the blanks, then use a screw/rivet hybrid (what Swanstrom calls a Scrivet, but is being manufactured by just about every manufacturer of electronics cutters & pliers). There is no bearing however (closest, would be Tronex, which uses Delrin washers in theirs).
But the nut is pressed into one blank (riveted), and a screw is used to hold them together. It's why they're adjustable. It's also highly automated (CNC machines instead of people performing forging operations), so they don't need much human labor to produce by comparison.
And for cutters, this joint is just dandy. Not convinced it's the right joint for pliers though, due to multiple axis joint stresses, such as those generated from twisting motions. Box joints are better suited to pliers for this reason (pin/rivet is supported on both sides).
Regarding teeth, you'd be amazed at how many aren't that wonderful (flatten out from improper hardening <i.e. lack of as a result of cutting corners>, not formed properly from the factory <teeth are flat from day one>, teeth won't mesh, ...). See the links posted below, particularly on the Tronex & Schmitz reviews.
There's another member,
Precisiontools, that has done reviews on a lot of electronics pliers and cutters, and we seem to have the same type of approach and outlook. Well worth the time to read IMHO (right click the pics into another tab/window for larger images & not leave the review article).
Reviews:
Tronex
Schmitz
Knipex
NWS Micro-Line (these they produce themselves, the
ESD line w/ yellow & black handles, are rebranded Schmitz)
BTW...where are you? Country/state?
USA, more specifically, NE Louisiana.
Of all these cutters mentioned, what size/model/make would be ideal for cutting 12 & 14 tin coated marine grade wiring for the 4x4 when it gets a whole new electrical system.
I have big cutters, but no reason to use big heavy tools at the workbench when a little light weight one would be more comfortable and controllable. Any suggestions?
Most, if not all, electronics cutters aren't designed for that large an AWG (they typically top out at 18AWG, most being smaller). Can even get as small as 0.025mm for cutting individual pins on SMD IC's (really fine pitch stuff, and this is where they get uber expensive, as well as those with tungsten carbide insert jaws meant for cutting hard wire).
I might be able to point you to something, but what type of cut are you after (bevel, semi-flush, full-flush)?
You can learn about the different types of cuts from any of the manufacturers, such as
Swanstrom (mentions others I didn't; manufacturers tend to use different names in their marketing, but those I mentioned are the most common, and correct terms). Download a few catalogs, and you'll get more info, and usually some nice pics or illustrations that show what the wire will look like as well as demonstrate how the blades meet.
You'll likely still end up with a large (what you're used to as "normal", say 6.5" - 8"), but they can be found in cuts other than bevel. Just be prepared to pay for them (i.e. Lindstrom, Facom, or Swanstrom IIRC offer them in Semi-flush). Full flush at this point, would be a pair of wire shears, such as those sold by NWS or Knipex for example.
Looking at spending maybe $50 to $100 on a set. Im currently using Ungar pliers and flush cutters. They are great. They look like rebadged Kleins.
I have been building and modifying guitar pedals/electronics for several years and until only recently had my eyes opened to good tools thanks to this place. Im always looking for tools to make the job easier.
What exactly do you need as per profiles, wire gauges, and what type of wire?
For example, if you mean to use them to cut guitar strings, you'll need something rated for hard wire. The best suited for that in electronics types, are those that use tungsten carbide inserts. And they're not cheap (go Schmitz if you need these, as they've the best pricing I've ever seen for them; much cheaper than say Erem, which will set you back nearly $200 per pair last I looked).
Now if you're after something to cut copper wire, you're in luck.
You'd be surprised at how few you'll actually need for general purpose work. Pair of long and short needle nose (with teeth), and a cutter or two will suffice in many situations. And would be possible to get you decent tools at the top end of your budget (~$25 - 30 per pair will get you something really nice in a forged box joint; stamped sheet metal types, such as Xuron types, a bit cheaper per).
Also have a few different Snap-on mini pliers.
Same as Lindstrom FWIW (Snap-On own Lindstrom). Unfortunately, not worth the money anymore since production was moved to Spain (cutting corners).
You really can do a lot better for the money (less money actually).
Post is long, and I do apologize. But hopefully enough information it helps someone.
