Mounting light to pole barn siding

[AA7483]

I know this has been beaten to death but what is the best way to mount a gooseneck on the high rib on the siding?

 

[readhead]

Why does it have to be mounted on a high? It is much easier to mount in a low.

 

[AA7483]

Because the high is center.

 

[readhead]

Is the location protected from the weather? Is it a wood building or metal?

 

[Hubmonkey]

I know this has been beaten to death but what is the best way to mount a gooseneck on the high rib on the siding?

Found this thread...

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322917

Hub

 

[BSabelhaus]

Mounting on a rib is not ideal, why not just move it 3 inches to the right or left? I just did this on my new building. You will be the only one who ever knows that it is not centered.

 

[AA7483]

The location is under a 1 foot gable overhang. It is true that no one will ever know but it'll drive me insane every time I see it.

 

[AA7483]

Something like this may work but how do I hide the screws?

 

[readhead]

You didn't say if it is wood or metal framing. But the steps are basically the same. Drill a pilot hole in the high rib. Use a hole saw of the proper size for a round steel box. Install some backing at the correct depth so the box is either flush or slightly proud of the rib. Caulk around the box to seal it to the siding and install the fixture.

For a little nicer look you can use a wood or composite block. Cut out the rib the length of the block. Install screws through the siding from the back into the block. Caulk and paint the block. Install a pancake box on the block and install the fixture.

That is a couple of ways we install lights when we erect metal buildings. One note for those reading this that could make things easier. Before we start sheeting I go through and work out the layout to anticipate these kind of things. Offsetting the first sheet 6" would have solved this problem. Spending a little time doing layout can save a lot of time later. Moving a window 2" can make trimming that window much easier later.

 

[kj_mustang]

Mount it on a base in between ribs.

 

[readhead]

Didn't read the whole thread did you.

 

[bullnerd]

Drill a large hole the size of a round box,
Slide box in until enough is sticking out to seal the lamp base,
Tig weld around the box!
Done.

 

[AA7483]

This would be perfect if the depth was greater. The high rib is 3/4 and this box is a half inch. I guess I could trace it out on to some 1/4 material of some sort to bump it out the difference.

 

[AA7483]

Wondering where this mount came from

 

[m32825]

The location is under a 1 foot gable overhang. It is true that no one will ever know but it'll drive me insane every time I see it.

Mount a pair, one on each side of the center!

 

[bullnerd]

OK, how about,
Stop by your local solid surface counter top shop,
Grab some scraps of the right color,
Glue them together and turn them on a wood lathe,
Notch out the back on a table saw,
Done.

 

[readhead]

The trim in post #14 is a light block for vinyl siding mounted over a box like I described in post#9.

 

[cory58]

Had the same challenge. The OP in the thread linked below turned me on to a type of composite decking that has a back profile very similar to the standard metal pole barn siding. I bought one board and cut it to make mounting blocks for all of my outside lights. No custom milling, just some caulk to fill in the small gaps. Only limitation is that it does not fit over the big rib. Post #1 show vertical siding and post #7 shows my installation on horizontal siding. Not my best caulk job, but you get the idea.

The product is TimberTech Terrain.


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320134


Cory

 

[AA7483]

Well he's is rough draft # 1 using some azek. Traced this flat light mount onto the azek. Cut it out. Then traced the profile of the siding on to azek and cut out the angles with the table saw and the took slices out of the middle and used a die grinder to smooth out middle.

 

[readhead]

Good solution.

 

[AA7483]

Should I make the bottom part a little larger than the top and use a router to create a similar profile. Leave the same size and use some bondo to make the 2 pieces seamless? Open to suggestions

 

[readhead]

If you make the bottom piece a little larger it may not seem as bulky. Do you need the top piece? you could mount a pancake box to the bottom piece and call it a day.

 

[Toomanytools?]

Somewhere buried deep in this forum in an unsearchable thread, I searched for a long time. There is a fellow GJ poster who used auto bondo and made a mold on the siding then poured it in. Turned out great, wish I could locate his post.

 

[AA7483]

If you make the bottom piece a little larger it may not seem as bulky. Do you need the top piece? you could mount a pancake box to the bottom piece and call it a day.

True. That's a good idea however the material is awfully thin in the center. May be a concern?

 

[readhead]

I presume you are installing some kind of backing and not just hanging the light from the sheet metal.

 

[AA7483]

I'm gonna put some wood blocking behind and run a ****** through.

 

[AA7483]

Take 2. This one came out a little better. Left some more meat in the center. I'm gonna take this mounting plate back to Depot and get a pancake box. Think it'll be perfect. I'd like to router the top edge but I don't know if there is enough material in the middle part.

 

[AA7483]

Stupid question but it looks like most goosenecks have a backing plate that is flat, like it wouldn't go over the pancake box. Is this accurate?

 

[readhead]

Looks good. Ease the edge before you cut the notch. Do you not have the fixtures yet? If not make sure you get something with a canopy that will cover a pancake box.

 

[AA7483]

That's a good idea about eating the edge before I notch. No I don't have the fixture yet. I'll make sure to get one with a canopy.

 

[AA7483]

Seems like most of the lights are made to mount directly and not on a junction box. Is this common?

 

[readhead]

Hard to say. Don't know what you're looking for.

 

[TractorJeff]

The picture in post 14 shows a flat plate.
Isn't a situation where you would mount, then as suggested by another poster run a ****** through to put a junction box inside the wall?

 

[readhead]

I sense that he is trying to avoid a big hole in the sheet.

 

[AA7483]

The attic of my barn will have blown in insulation. If I put the box inside I'll never be able to get to it without compressing the insulation

 

[AA7483]

Heres what I came up with. Eased the edge of the azek with a router. Ran 2 3/8 lags through the box into blocking on the back side. Now to find a way to mass produce and sell them!

 

[readhead]

Looks great. Well done.

 

[AA7483]

Had to do some more modifications. My backing plate and cover were the exact size of the pancake so the box was exposed. I had to use a router and take enough depth out of the plate to flush it into the mounting block without taking all of it. Then I had to cut part of the high rib out as the box was hitting it. I was reluctant to do so but it worked out fine. Yes, the grinder got away from me but the plate covered just fine.

 

[AA7483]

and at night

 

[readhead]

Turned out great.