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MP&C Shop Projects

bradpac

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Sep 8, 2013
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Central TX
Using the hood attachment points for blocking versus a generic stand is a great idea, how you get things right.
 
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MP&C

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Leonardtown, MD
Thanks for all the comments guys, and following along with our work.. Got a couple few dust nibs/defects to buff out and then we'll get the hood put on tomorrow..
 
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MP&C

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Door latches needed!!! Our local fire department has a one of two produced enclosed cab 1937 Seagrave fire truck that is in need of some compartment door latches. These should be the same as other trucks of the era. If anyone knows of a parts?? truck sitting around or an NOS stash that may have this latch, dimensions are 2-7/8 x 2 x 7/8 deep, hole pattern is 1-3/16 x 2-5/16. Thanks for any leads.


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Jeff Ivers

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Apr 9, 2010
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2,550
Location
Oklahoma
I don't have one to measure, but that sure looks like what the early 60's triumph Spitfires used for trunk latches. Several British suppliers such as Moss and Victoria British are likely to have the hardware.
 
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MP&C

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Leonardtown, MD
Thanks for the lead Jeff, those were close but not close enough.. Trying to keep an exact match that we can use the existing brackets that are welded to the doors.


This past Friday night we cut and buffed the F7 hood to get rid of some dust nibs, and Saturday morning Jared and I started to reassemble the hood. The horn wiring had some dry and cracking insulation sleeving, so it was replaced as well.


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John stopped by mid morning and we got all the parts put back together and adjusted. Looks much better with the hood back on, John has been driving without one for a couple months.


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All ready for the Tri-state Antique Truck Show this week in Clear Brook VA..
 
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MP&C

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Leonardtown, MD
Thanks for the comments guys!! Jim, this actual truck was bought new by his father, used on their farm in upstate NY. John had driven it before he even had a drivers license, almost 60 years ago.


Joel, thanks for the lead...
 
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MP&C

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Thanks! John got the truck loaded up today, ready for departing tomorrow for the show at the Frederick County Fairgrounds in Clear Brook, VA. I may have to take a ride on Friday and check out the show..


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MP&C

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Leonardtown, MD
I went on Friday so probably only saw a portion of what showed up over the weekend. Lots of nice stuff, including some pristine trucks from the teens. Some from the same museum that is interested in the Biederman. And for all the trucks, I took pictures of only a car. It was parked behind me in the parking area, a 1934 Hupmobile. Looks rather sleek for its day and age, if only they had curved glass back then.


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Bob Heine

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Oct 24, 2009
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10,703
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
Robert, I agree. Not only is it sleek but those bumpers and headlight fairings are things of beauty. I don't recall ever seeing that particular year and model Hupmobile. I like it better than the Chrysler Airflow.
 
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iajonesy

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Feb 8, 2009
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2,467
Location
Iowa
Robert, what brand of masking tape do you use ? I know this is a dumb question but I've been away from paint work for quite a while and want to use what ever is best. Thanks.

Mike
 
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MP&C

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Leonardtown, MD
Thanks for the comments guys!


Mike, 3M automotive in yellow. Get it from the local auto body supply, but I’m sure there’s online sources as well



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MP&C

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A video we did with some basic stuff, making a vent bracket for under the dash using a hammer and piece of pipe. Excuse the audio quality at the start, what you get for filming with an iPhone 6S. S stands for *****... apparently the phone gets confused as to which of 3 microphones to use. We filmed the rest with a different phone..








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larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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18,972
Location
Northern Virginia
A video we did with some basic stuff, making a vent bracket for under the dash using a hammer and piece of pipe. Excuse the audio quality at the start, what you get for filming with an iPhone 6S. S stands for *****... apparently the phone gets confused as to which of 3 microphones to use. We filmed the rest with a different phone..




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Very impressive from just a piece of pipe as a tool!
 

BORING HOP YARD

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Jan 13, 2007
Messages
1,098
Location
Boring Oregon
Thanks for sharing, that was cool.
I think Robert may be the tool and everything else is just an extension.
When I see a skill being performed that looks easy, I know there is a lot of knowledge in each one of those hammer blows, how many, how hard, straight on, side swipes and maybe a little rubbing.
 
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MP&C

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Leonardtown, MD
Guys, thanks for the comments. I had a question on another site on the whys and hows… too good not to share here as well...


Nice show and tell on that Robert... just curious , why not just weld the face to the 2nd piece without tipping the edge over..then dressing the corners..




Greg, EXCELLENT question!!!!


When you place a weld on a corner, and for an example, lets say we are patching a lower fender right up to the door opening to repair some rust at the bottom of the fender.... you lose the ability to control the two perpendicular sides. Let's say you blow a hole and have to re-weld in a spot or two. More heat and shrinking is bound to pull at the panel, and now you are pulling inward in two directions. The weld seam directly in the corner makes it difficult at best to planish and control where the metal gets stretched to, IF you can even make headway on it. So you'll find that in addition to having low spots, you also have altered the door to fender GAP with little hope of fixing it without filler.. By shaping your panel as you want it, and then tipping a flange that carries the seam into the perpendicular side, the crease helps to hold things from moving. Place the weld seam far enough away from the corner that you can hammer and dolly. With the brackets we made Saturday, this was easy as we just used the pipe once again, this time to planish the TIG weld once completed.
 
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MP&C

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Oct 21, 2009
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Location
Leonardtown, MD
Well I think we're long overdue for a wagon update. Yes, it is back in the building....


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And we should be setting the body back on the chassis this weekend. We've been buttoning up some last minute things on the frame before a body makes accessibility more of a challenge. The cable for the O2 sensor up to the EFI was about two feet too long, so we ordered another connector and shortened it up a bit.


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In order to better hold things from bouncing around, a large Adel clamp is "massaged" to better fit the shape of the Bosch connector, and yet remain loose enough to remove the connector if need be for any future troubleshooting needs..




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….and here's our leftover.


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Next, we had transmission cooling lines to run, which means straightening a coil of stainless 5/16 line....


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This should be straight enough....


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We had to insure clearance around the inspection cover and starter, so those were temporarily installed...


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We found these fancy stainless "cable ties" at McMaster, but even using a banding tool to tension it, the "tang" retention allows it to loosen slightly before the tang locks in.


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Since I had recently picked up a pair of Pex crimpers at a pawn shop for cheap, we thought we'd give those Oetiker clamps a shot for keeping things snug.. Looks like this may work!


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Top side...


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Bottom...


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The crimpers/pliers we used... $15 at a pawn shop...


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Running the radiator ends...


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And then some other superfluous stuff, we got the second vent bracket welded up last night


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And even though it's off in the near distance, it's about time to repaint the tag so DMV can register it to the car (1955 only had one plate in MD)...

Thought I had some bus paint that was close, but looks a bit too light..


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But playing with some mixing ratios online, I may be able to use some of my one shot lettering paint as a tint to get us much closer...


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And since the rest of the bits are now being cut and buffed, we better get the body on the frame to make some room in the shop..


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….and between all that, we made another set of window dividers, these going to Dallas for the restoration of a 57 wagon...


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WoodsTruck

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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
1,019
Any chance the inside end of the clamp will have enough movement over time to impact the surface of the tube?
 
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MP&C

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Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,396
Location
Leonardtown, MD
I'm not sure, but Harley uses them on their fuel lines. I would think that environment would have more vibration than what we're going to see, so I would hope :fingerscrossed: that we will be OK. But if there are any adverse issues, I will be sure to report back..
 

txvwnut

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Jan 1, 2015
Messages
7,588
Location
Bedford, Texas
I use Oetiker clamps all the time and once they're crimped their solid. But I've also never used them for holding tube together but if you got a good pinch I'll bet they won't move.
 
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