BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Nice work Robert!
Glad to see the car back in the shop.
Glad to see the car back in the shop.
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Bowtie4life
Well-known member
Looks really good Robert. There is a lot of detail work in this build and cant wait to see it progress.
Have you by chance used the Baileigh foot operated *********** shrinker/stretcher? I am just starting in metal shaping and can see the benefit of a *********** version, but also see many folks use the standard Lancaster's with stippled dies.
Love your thread. Thanks
Love your thread. Thanks
I had a set of Lancasters in std jaw, got rid of them when I got Erco kick shrinker. It has about 6" or so throat. Where do you live, one of my buddy's has one of the MSS-16F shrinker/stretchers he was trying to sell a couple months back. Could save you some good coin buying used. I think he wanted 700 for the set. One stand, two sets of dies.. Half price....
He just listed it a couple days ago... tell him Robert sent you..
https://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/tls/d/fredericksburg-baileigh-shrinker/7203083396.html
Last night we got some details crossed off the list, our radiator sits on the front side of the core support but the overflow can't stay on the front side as it would spew all over a painted splash pan. So we marked the core support baffle to align with our overflow AN fitting and as Jared was drilling the hole and installing the grommet, I got to bending some 1/4" stainless tubing. Now it will drain behind the frame rail...
Since McMaster had made a delivery we got some of the Oetiker clamps installed. Yeah, I think I like this cleaner look...
My buddy Jeff Ford down in Aiken SC was working on installing a floor pan patch and had omitted the flange in the radius corner below the toe panel.
So in addition to busting his chops, we put together this video tutorial so he could do the next panel in one piece. Hope it helps someone else as well..
.
Since McMaster had made a delivery we got some of the Oetiker clamps installed. Yeah, I think I like this cleaner look...
My buddy Jeff Ford down in Aiken SC was working on installing a floor pan patch and had omitted the flange in the radius corner below the toe panel.
So in addition to busting his chops, we put together this video tutorial so he could do the next panel in one piece. Hope it helps someone else as well..
.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Thanks for the video. Great explanation!
shortykorte
Well-known member
MP&C Shop Projects
Wow! Great attention to detail. Super cool overflow drain.
The tip on the how the hammer sounds when shrinking or stretching is going to be very useful for me.
Shorty
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Wow! Great attention to detail. Super cool overflow drain.
The tip on the how the hammer sounds when shrinking or stretching is going to be very useful for me.
Shorty
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
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Bowtie4life
Well-known member
The black paint that was used on the frame and pulleys is that a satin finish Robert?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert, I apologize if you've addressed this previously, but I cannot remember if the radiator is rigid mounted to the core support center section or not? If so, aren't you concerned about the lines being rigid without a rubber vibration absorbing section in the line to prevent fatigue cracking of either the rigid lines or the connections?
If the cooling stack is mounted to rubber isolators I would suggest putting some rubber in the line between rigid mounted lines to prevent fatigue cracking. Just a suggestion.
If the cooling stack is mounted to rubber isolators I would suggest putting some rubber in the line between rigid mounted lines to prevent fatigue cracking. Just a suggestion.
harley jim
Well-known member
Great video, straight to the point without all the fluff. Thanks
Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Offcenter12
Well-known member
Just want to say thanks for all your tutorials and videos Robert. That last one is great and I have no excuse not to "get to it"! Glad people keep bringing you projects so you stay working. Well, that doesn't sound right, but you know what I mean. Keeps beans and bread on the table and I'd guess you'd be in the shop doing something anyway.
John
John
Bowtie4life
Well-known member
Thanks Robert!!!
RADcustom
Well-known member
Great tutorial. Any chance he left that hole as a drain to avoid rusting out in the future?
Thanks for checking out the videos guys..
He told me he was going to attempt to fold the flange as I showed but chickened out.. I think he did what he knew he could do.
Well today was slated as lift-off day. So we got our lifting eyes installed on the body this morning and set up the lifting devices.
We loaded the frame onto the trailer, figured a winch would be easier than pushing..
Getting the body ready to separate from the rotisserie...
With the body bolted down, we moved it outside to take some pictures..
Randy, here is the room we have behind the engine for access to the O2 sensor connector...
Our attempt to install the rear bumper so we could look at it with some chrome on the rear end did not fare well. The bumper brackets did not line up correctly, just my luck, so we added length and welded the original holes closed so they can be moved to the correct location...
He told me he was going to attempt to fold the flange as I showed but chickened out.. I think he did what he knew he could do.
Well today was slated as lift-off day. So we got our lifting eyes installed on the body this morning and set up the lifting devices.
We loaded the frame onto the trailer, figured a winch would be easier than pushing..
Getting the body ready to separate from the rotisserie...
With the body bolted down, we moved it outside to take some pictures..
Randy, here is the room we have behind the engine for access to the O2 sensor connector...
Our attempt to install the rear bumper so we could look at it with some chrome on the rear end did not fare well. The bumper brackets did not line up correctly, just my luck, so we added length and welded the original holes closed so they can be moved to the correct location...
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Thanks for checking out the videos guys..
He told me he was going to attempt to fold the flange as I showed but chickened out.. I think he did what he knew he could do.
Well today was slated as lift-off day. So we got our lifting eyes installed on the body this morning and set up the lifting devices.
We loaded the frame onto the trailer, figured a winch would be easier than pushing..
Getting the body ready to separate from the rotisserie...
With the body bolted down, we moved it outside to take some pictures..
Randy, here is the room we have behind the engine for access to the O2 sensor connector...
Our attempt to install the rear bumper so we could look at it with some chrome on the rear end did not fare well. The bumper brackets did not line up correctly, just my luck, so we added length and welded the original holes closed so they can be moved to the correct location...
Tons of room! The LS engines must be a bunch longer as with engine up against firewall barely any room up front.
Must feel great having body mated with frame again?
Looking fantastic!
larry4406
Well-known member
Looking nice! I am sure you are happy to mate the body with the frame again.
Do you have an overhead shop crane? I see you picked the body at the rear with a typical engine picker type crane but the front appears to be picked from above?
Do you have an overhead shop crane? I see you picked the body at the rear with a typical engine picker type crane but the front appears to be picked from above?
Bowtie4life
Well-known member
Looking good Robert...........there is a lot of eye candy to look at now!!!
Boosted1
Well-known member
Looks good!
That's a big milestone in the build.
That's a big milestone in the build.
xtremek
Well-known member
This is going to look incredible.
jbmatth
Well-known member
The LS is actually 1" shorter than the SBC was.
Awesome to see the body and frame together again.
JB
E12-535iTurbo
Well-known member
The video is briljant Robert. Thanks for that!
Thanks!!
So this weekend we played with blocks. Made from 2x6's, and gave the wagon a lift kit. This should help in using a creeper for any underside work..
Mike wanted to get started on the wiring harness, but we thought it best to install the brake bracket assy first. As luck would have it, the plastic bushings did not fare well with the install. We took the opportunity to make bushings out of oilite bronze, something more fitting in a 55 Chevy over plastic.
.
So this weekend we played with blocks. Made from 2x6's, and gave the wagon a lift kit. This should help in using a creeper for any underside work..
Mike wanted to get started on the wiring harness, but we thought it best to install the brake bracket assy first. As luck would have it, the plastic bushings did not fare well with the install. We took the opportunity to make bushings out of oilite bronze, something more fitting in a 55 Chevy over plastic.
.
jimkinney
Well-known member
Nice bushing fix, you won't have to worry about those anymore.
I had to make some for my office chair. It got so wobbly I needed a seat belt.
I had to make some for my office chair. It got so wobbly I needed a seat belt.
xtremek
Well-known member
Very nice on the bushing. Couldn't find one at your local hardware store? Do you have that hunk of bronze just laying around? That, in and of itself, is way cool.
Years ago we did a modern (relatively) manual OD transmission mated to a 1956 engine and needed a pilot bushing that wasn’t available. So I had bought about 18” of this oilite bronze for making the pilot bushing. Still have well over a foot left after this past weekend. Just laying around. 
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Those plastic bushings are terrible. That bushing might never get seen ,but is a big improvement.
bradpac
Well-known member
All of the old trucks I've fixed up I have replaced the rubber or plastic bushings with that oilite. It's amazing how well a 3 on the tree can shift with good bushings.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Bowtie4life
Well-known member
Robert........I hate to be so dumb, but is that a lathe that you used to make that bushing with?
Bowtie4life
Well-known member
Thanks buddy!!!
With the brake pedal sporting new oilite bronze bushings, Mike got all the pedal assemblies installed, and hole drilled in the floor for the parking brake cable.. Then on to underneath stuff, installing the flex plate bolts and torqueing them down. We used the starter to bump the engine around, and found we also needed to shim the starter, so that was done.
The AC vent brackets were folded using the magnetic brake....
Then trim the ends and one more media blast session to get it ready for epoxy primer.
Jared and I worked on getting all the body mounts snugged down, and then turned attention to the rear bumper. In the stock configuration this is slightly wide, so we had opted for a slice and dice and making the three piece bumper into a one piece..
We had intended to get this done prior to paint, just one of those things that slipped through the cracks before it got sent out for paintwork. We did have some rags used between the bumper and body to prevent any damage, and removed them for pictures. The final fitment after tacking:
Our data plate for the firewall had been looking pretty sad....
…...so much so that we had thought about leaving it off the nice shiny firewall..
But we had sent some pictures of the carnage to Bob at Alternative Chrome in Kutztown PA, and he said he could clean it right up and add a sealer for us.. Much better...
The AC vent brackets were folded using the magnetic brake....
Then trim the ends and one more media blast session to get it ready for epoxy primer.
Jared and I worked on getting all the body mounts snugged down, and then turned attention to the rear bumper. In the stock configuration this is slightly wide, so we had opted for a slice and dice and making the three piece bumper into a one piece..
We had intended to get this done prior to paint, just one of those things that slipped through the cracks before it got sent out for paintwork. We did have some rags used between the bumper and body to prevent any damage, and removed them for pictures. The final fitment after tacking:
Our data plate for the firewall had been looking pretty sad....
…...so much so that we had thought about leaving it off the nice shiny firewall..
But we had sent some pictures of the carnage to Bob at Alternative Chrome in Kutztown PA, and he said he could clean it right up and add a sealer for us.. Much better...
Offcenter12
Well-known member
Robert,
I've probably said this before as have others, but many many thanks for all the detailed photos and descriptions of the work you do on these projects. It's a good reminder of all the behind the scenes work involved that I usually wouldn't think of when I see the finished vehicle.
John
I've probably said this before as have others, but many many thanks for all the detailed photos and descriptions of the work you do on these projects. It's a good reminder of all the behind the scenes work involved that I usually wouldn't think of when I see the finished vehicle.
John
Bowtie4life
Well-known member
It's all the behind the scene things that go into restorations that the average eye has no idea what it took to get the finished product.
E12-535iTurbo
Well-known member
After welding will it be polished and send out for rechroming? I've a similar action to take care of in the far far distant future.