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MP&C

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ends were added to keep round stock from exiting to the sides. We chose radius over a straight bend as the diamond plate was a bit thick for either the press brake or mag brake, but the radius brake worked like a charm..
 
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shortykorte

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Shelf is a nice improvement especially keeping floor open. I’m thinking the bench could use some metallic green paint job. 🤣


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OP
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MP&C

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I'll have to see what green we have left over... :lol:


Scott B from Kahiko Customs in Charles City VA showed up early yesterday with the two doors for a Model A. 90 years or so of carnage has taken it's toll and we were collaborating with him to make some new door skins.


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Given that we opted to go ahead and make both door skins to have a more consistent finish on these. Paper patterns were taken to capture the pertinent details, and some oversized blanks were cut out of 18 Gauge cold rolled steel. The Powell hammer made made quick work of adding shape to the skin...


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Once we had our shape needed, the upper beltline bead was added using some aluminum dies we made for the Lennox nibbler.


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For the lower bead detail, we wished to use the folded flange as a guide in the dies, so the tipping dies in the Lennox were used to fold the lower flange..


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Tipping the flange...




Adding the lower bead detail





the new skin was then test fit before we trimmed and folded the side flanges..


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The side flanges were folded over to 45* along the un-beaded area, then our dies for the Lennox clamped in their respective location by aligning the edge along the fold line and tightening in the bench vise. Then a body hammer folded the bead areas over to 90* and the remainder of the straight bends reinstalled into the tipping wheel and folded to 90*.

Looks like these will make a much better job than trying to sort out the old skins..


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OP
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MP&C

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Thanks! Scott is supposed to send me pictures when they get the skins installed so we can see the finished product...
 
OP
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MP&C

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Thanks Dave!


Well yesterday was homecoming, Jared and I drove up to Annapolis to pick up the body from Absolute Rod and Custom Paint. Really pleased with this green paint, it does catch your eye.



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Gotta love a tilt bed trailer for loading a rotisserie...


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All strapped down for the trip south...


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A stop for fuel and then we headed to the Wednesday night meet at Leonardtown Arby's... I think that's the slowest traffic has ever travelled south out of Annapolis, we had quite a few people breaking their necks, slowing down to give the thumbs ups, etc..


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With that done, we can finish our spring cleaning in the shop and get this set back down on the frame..
 
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shortykorte

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MP&C Shop Projects

The wheels is what I noticed also. Lol.

What a mirror shine. The car is definitely going to be Ridler worthy. I would have been worried pulling the car home on an open trailer.

Pa, I gotta pee. [emoji12]


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jbmatth

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Northern Ok.
I'm in awe, so very well done on your part for the prep as well as the paint shop. Congrats on getting it to this point.

JB
 
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BORING HOP YARD

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Boring Oregon
Looks great!

Now the fun part, storing all the painted parts until its time to install and installing without damage to the car. I know Roberts team is up to the task.
 
OP
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MP&C

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Thanks for all the feedback guys!! Yeah, Brandon and the guys did a bang up job on the paint.. Will be turning some heads when Dana takes it out.


We stopped by the upholstery shop on Friday, they had the console ready...


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Video:




Playing catch-up here on the F7 hood, the inside of the crease was blocked using tape to keep the center line sharp, then brace welded in place and some epoxy touch ups done..

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With the touch ups blocked, we're ready for some Epoxy/sealer, some PPG ESSS base, and my first time spraying SPI Universal... WooHoo! love this clear!!


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These Ford truck hoods can be a pain to get good paint coverage inside the nose.. So a couple pieces of TIG wire from our rack to the hood brackets hold it up in the air so we can get into the nose with the spray gun..


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OP
M

MP&C

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Thanks Guys!!


Thought I'd do a progression of pictures to show the carnage we started with on the hood brace to where it was painted this past weekend....


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Note the wings left adjacent to the weld to act as heat sinks and prevent the edge from burning back...


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No Body filler, just epoxy primer, basecoat, and clearcoat. Looks almost factory!!


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Bob Heine

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Robert, the best shops make the stuff everyone sees look perfect. You take it the next Ridler step and make the stuff no one sees look perfect. I'm going to start wearing a chin strap before I open your thread to see the latest post. I've swallowed way too many bugs when my jaw drops open.


EDIT: As a child in the '50s I remember a 1950 Ford Coupe that was sectioned and channeled and the car looked perfect. I didn't appreciate it at the time but the article focused on the fact there was no lead anywhere on the car. The craftsman hammer welded everything to perfection and gently removed every blemish in the body with hammers and dollies. You continue the tradition.
 
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OP
M

MP&C

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,396
Location
Leonardtown, MD
Robert, the best shops make the stuff everyone sees look perfect. You take it the next Ridler step and make the stuff no one sees look perfect. I'm going to start wearing a chin strap before I open your thread to see the latest post. I've swallowed way too many bugs when my jaw drops open.


EDIT: As a child in the '50s I remember a 1950 Ford Coupe that was sectioned and channeled and the car looked perfect. I didn't appreciate it at the time but the article focused on the fact there was no lead anywhere on the car. The craftsman hammer welded everything to perfection and gently removed every blemish in the body with hammers and dollies. You continue the tradition.


Bob, thanks for the kind words, I don't know if I can live up to your assessment though ;)

Normally I'm just called **** rententive, your version sounds a whole lot nicer.. :lol:
 
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OP
M

MP&C

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Messages
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Location
Leonardtown, MD
Thanks!!


So every time we place the hood on my folding stand, the hood skin deflects upward at those pressure points (corners). Which means that won't work for blocking out the hood. So lets' use the same supports that the hood uses and make a blocking "stand".

Large 5/8" bolt through the hood latch hole for supporting the nose...


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And going through our scrap inventory, here's some tubing we used for the back end, bolted into the hinge support. The extra "feet" help to stabilize it so the sanding effort won't try and flop it over...


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With that done, all our open holes are taped over and the entire bottom side masked off to protect the inside finish..


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A bit of Evercoat 416 to address some lows, and 3 coats of SPI epoxy for the next round of blocking on the outside.


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Blocking...


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Some booth clean up and fresh masking on the table, hood pre-cleaned and tacked.....


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Sealed with SPI Epoxy thinned about 10%


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Fleet paint that was used originally on the truck, supplied by owner. Orange peel in a can..


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2 coats of color, 2 coats of SPI Universal Clear...


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