jimkinney
Well-known member
Agree. Mine can change her own oil, if her warranty let her, and change a tire.
Good life skills.
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Agree. Mine can change her own oil, if her warranty let her, and change a tire.
Good life skills.
racer-john
Well-known member
I am not a father, and at my age (88) don't intead to be but I give you three thumbs up.
Thanks guys!
So a few months back when we bought the Powell Hammer there was this tubing notcher sitting there. It was for sale as well and I knew exactly who needed it. One phone call and it was sold minutes later to my buddy Mike Phillips in Downingtown PA. I brought it to my shop to hold it until he had a chance to come pick it up..
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In the meantime, Mike had some equipment he was selling. I had my eye on a press brake and Cousin JB (upholster in Fairfax SC) could use his jump shear. So Saturday was the day for equipment delivery/swap, Mike and his wife Stacy made the trek to Southern Maryland to the shop and dropped off my new press brake, dropped off JB‘s new foot shear (until it can make it to SC) and picked up the tubing notcher that I’m sure will be a welcome addition at Phillips Hot Rod & Customs for the next cage install.
So once we get the new press brake hooked up we will likely have one or both of these leaving...
.
So a few months back when we bought the Powell Hammer there was this tubing notcher sitting there. It was for sale as well and I knew exactly who needed it. One phone call and it was sold minutes later to my buddy Mike Phillips in Downingtown PA. I brought it to my shop to hold it until he had a chance to come pick it up..
In the meantime, Mike had some equipment he was selling. I had my eye on a press brake and Cousin JB (upholster in Fairfax SC) could use his jump shear. So Saturday was the day for equipment delivery/swap, Mike and his wife Stacy made the trek to Southern Maryland to the shop and dropped off my new press brake, dropped off JB‘s new foot shear (until it can make it to SC) and picked up the tubing notcher that I’m sure will be a welcome addition at Phillips Hot Rod & Customs for the next cage install.
So once we get the new press brake hooked up we will likely have one or both of these leaving...
.
xtremek
Well-known member
That's a lot of nice equipment. Looks like the new press brake is actually going to take up lees room, or do my eyes deceive me?
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That press brake is awesome! Great find!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
There's some nice equipment there Robert. That DiAcro press brake would be nice to have.
shortykorte
Well-known member
That’s an interesting press brake. Looks like it allows for you to make all types of dies.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
harley jim
Well-known member
I would love to have a press brake like that. So cool
Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Thanks for the comments guys..
Yes, the manual press brakes are 24" each capacity, the new one is 36" capacity. Once again we will be shuffling equipment around.
The new brake is also taller, so it would block the cabinets bolted to the side of the paint booth, so the metal spinning lathe will assume that location.. when the manual brakes have vacated.. Got the power hooked up last night....
.
Yes, the manual press brakes are 24" each capacity, the new one is 36" capacity. Once again we will be shuffling equipment around.
The new brake is also taller, so it would block the cabinets bolted to the side of the paint booth, so the metal spinning lathe will assume that location.. when the manual brakes have vacated.. Got the power hooked up last night.....
xtremek
Well-known member
The never ending game of shop Tetris.
This morning we made use of the new Diacro press brake to put some bends in some 1/8" thick 5052-H32 aluminum, bent per the following "official napkin sketch".
The lower urethane die that Mike Phillips supplied with the machine bent the 1/2" flange in the test piece fine, but that was 2-1/2" wide, where the finished part needed to be 21-1/2". Here's a view of the urethane die....
With a 21-1/2" long piece, the urethane die didn't want to play nice. So we changed out the bottom die for our Diacro Rol-form die with much better results... Even matches the official drawing..
Note the Roll-form die doesn't leave indentations like a normal VEE die would. Here's some previous content I had posted on the Rol-form die:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3099424&postcount=214
.
The lower urethane die that Mike Phillips supplied with the machine bent the 1/2" flange in the test piece fine, but that was 2-1/2" wide, where the finished part needed to be 21-1/2". Here's a view of the urethane die....
With a 21-1/2" long piece, the urethane die didn't want to play nice. So we changed out the bottom die for our Diacro Rol-form die with much better results... Even matches the official drawing..
Note the Roll-form die doesn't leave indentations like a normal VEE die would. Here's some previous content I had posted on the Rol-form die:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3099424&postcount=214
.
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More progress on the wagon, more bumper action. Part of the problem with using three pieces to form the bumper with a nice wide bumper guard to hide the overlaps, is there is less of a smooth transition from end to end. So in using those individual parts to make a single bumper, we need to trim to correct this. While on the car, painters tape is used to lay out a smooth transition from end to end.
An air body saw is used to cut off the bulk and roloc sander for cleanup afterward...
Jared has been helping out with the bumpers, here making tight fitting plugs to fill in the old bolt holes for a smooth look on the outside.
Our front bumper center section had a bit more damage to repair, the center section showed it had been used to pull/tow/?? in a previous life... As the car was pulled, it added some creases as the center pulled outward..
A bit of off-dolly with a rather large hammer and we're much better now.
The center section also had a stepped flange on either end so the outer pieces would be flush when mounted. As we are making one-piece bumpers, the step is trimmed to length and the step is flattened using a precision flattening device..
Video version:
Next, we wanted shaved fasteners but also still wanted some fine-tune adjustability. So that eliminates the old weld bolts on the back side caper.. Next option was a bracket that accepted the carriage bolt but also allowed some adjustment side to side. This design was graciously shared with us by Laszlo Nobi (aka Chevynut) as he had done on his 56 Nomad build (see here: https://www.trifivechevys.com/showthread.php/5013-Nomad-final-assembly ). So we started with 2 x 2 x 1/4" thick square tubing. The 1/4" thickness allows for the height of the "square" of the carriage bolt, and we cut down on the width to just enough for the carriage bolt diameter, both to minimize size of the bracket and also to minimize the tendency for the center of the bracket to pull outward.
Square tubing is cut to length and sliced and diced as shown...
Adjacent parts are beveled to insure full penetration on the 1/4" thick material..
A 7/16 hex nut is used to maintain the 3/8 width so our weld does not close up the slot when the weld shrinks while cooling..
The part is then cleaned up, here is our finished part that will weld to the back side of the bumper...
Meanwhile Mike has been working on electrical wiring, here getting the interior light wiring in place so we can load up and take to the upholsterer for headliner installation..
An air body saw is used to cut off the bulk and roloc sander for cleanup afterward...
Jared has been helping out with the bumpers, here making tight fitting plugs to fill in the old bolt holes for a smooth look on the outside.
Our front bumper center section had a bit more damage to repair, the center section showed it had been used to pull/tow/?? in a previous life... As the car was pulled, it added some creases as the center pulled outward..
A bit of off-dolly with a rather large hammer and we're much better now.
The center section also had a stepped flange on either end so the outer pieces would be flush when mounted. As we are making one-piece bumpers, the step is trimmed to length and the step is flattened using a precision flattening device..
Video version:
Next, we wanted shaved fasteners but also still wanted some fine-tune adjustability. So that eliminates the old weld bolts on the back side caper.. Next option was a bracket that accepted the carriage bolt but also allowed some adjustment side to side. This design was graciously shared with us by Laszlo Nobi (aka Chevynut) as he had done on his 56 Nomad build (see here: https://www.trifivechevys.com/showthread.php/5013-Nomad-final-assembly ). So we started with 2 x 2 x 1/4" thick square tubing. The 1/4" thickness allows for the height of the "square" of the carriage bolt, and we cut down on the width to just enough for the carriage bolt diameter, both to minimize size of the bracket and also to minimize the tendency for the center of the bracket to pull outward.
Square tubing is cut to length and sliced and diced as shown...
Adjacent parts are beveled to insure full penetration on the 1/4" thick material..
A 7/16 hex nut is used to maintain the 3/8 width so our weld does not close up the slot when the weld shrinks while cooling..
The part is then cleaned up, here is our finished part that will weld to the back side of the bumper...
Meanwhile Mike has been working on electrical wiring, here getting the interior light wiring in place so we can load up and take to the upholsterer for headliner installation..
xtremek
Well-known member
Ok, I need the knowledge of the master. I have a used set of steel wheels for my dually that are rusty and the wrong color. My neighbor is a painter at AIS construction equipment, so getting them sandblasted isn't a problem. But he made the comment that getting down into the crack where center and the hop join is hard to take care of, and will eventually start causing issues. Any suggestions?
Media blast, preferably with garnet or coal slag (not sand) and get down into that joint as much as you can. Then mix up some epoxy primer and brush it down inside the gap. Once that sets up, brush more, and either use a seam sealer or continue to fill with epoxy. Once you have the gap addressed and it has dried, then scuff/smooth the area and spray the entire wheel.
xtremek
Well-known member
I like it. Thanks for the tip, it sounds like it will work very well.
ct71rr
Well-known member
Hi, I was originally following this thread back in 2013 and now picking it up again! I'm up to page 36
. I've already learned how to properly use snips and planishing welds. And the hole in the pliers idea is awesome! What is the drill bit trick for drilling spot welds. Sorry for quoting an old post. You're work is incredible! 
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice trick with the slotted piece of steel for the carriage style bumper bolts Robert.
When I shaved the bolts on my '71 Chevelle, I welded the bolts directly into the bumper. Then removed the bumper ground the outside flush and metal finished then primed, sanded, painted and cleared for a nice finish. I did however have to be careful tightening them as I was nervous to **** in the area where the bolt was welded and create a bow on the outside but it worked great as long as I was cautious.
When I shaved the bolts on my '71 Chevelle, I welded the bolts directly into the bumper. Then removed the bumper ground the outside flush and metal finished then primed, sanded, painted and cleared for a nice finish. I did however have to be careful tightening them as I was nervous to **** in the area where the bolt was welded and create a bow on the outside but it worked great as long as I was cautious.
Hi, I was originally following this thread back in 2013 and now picking it up again! I'm up to page 36
Thanks!! Here is a video on fabricating the modified drill bit for plug welds. This allows you to pre-prime for better rust prevention..
Thanks Mike! I had considered welding the bolts, but the slotted bracket won out for the additional adjustability..
ct71rr
Well-known member
Thank you very much! Now, if everyone would stop asking questions so I can catch up to the end, I'm on page 77 now, it would be great
. Just kidding!! This is one of the most informative threads ever. Thank you for doing thisaggierailroad
Well-known member
Robert, long time no see here!
larry4406
Well-known member
Been on hiatus with the day job!!
I hate it when work interferes with my personal life!
Got two press brakes in the shop available if anyone needs to do last minute Christmas shopping for the wife/girlfriend..
Brake #1 is Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1500. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. This one has the fully functioning back gauge, a must have for repeat bends. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 2100, about half of what they're on eBay for. Diacro makes good product and they hold their value.
Back gauge in operation:
Brake #2 is Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1353. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. These are radius dies, two sets. Yes they are different heights, just installed both sets to show them. This one is missing some parts to the back gauge. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 1800, about half of what they're on eBay for. Diacro makes good product and they hold their value.
If someone would want both, which would assist in fabricating the rest of the backstop for the second brake, package deal for 3750. No shipping, prefer you come and kick the tires. We can load onto your truck/trailer.
Brake #1 is Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1500. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. This one has the fully functioning back gauge, a must have for repeat bends. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 2100, about half of what they're on eBay for. Diacro makes good product and they hold their value.
Back gauge in operation:
Brake #2 is Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1353. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. These are radius dies, two sets. Yes they are different heights, just installed both sets to show them. This one is missing some parts to the back gauge. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 1800, about half of what they're on eBay for. Diacro makes good product and they hold their value.
If someone would want both, which would assist in fabricating the rest of the backstop for the second brake, package deal for 3750. No shipping, prefer you come and kick the tires. We can load onto your truck/trailer.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert,
Wish I was closer...
Wish I was closer...
Me too...and I would race you to get them...
We never get the good stuff out here on the lefty coast...
txvwnut
Well-known member
If I had the space.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm pretty good at sneaking stuff into the shop but that's beyond my skillset.
No sneaking required.Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert, probably has something to do with how much money my stuff ***** up versus how much money your stuff makes.
Monza Harry
Well-known member
Let's be honest Robert you still say "I'm going out to the shop/garage to play" We all do it, isn't it any wonder the spouses think these "Tools" are Toys. Harry
OH ****!!!! I thought delivery was included being Christmas and all.
Have a very Merry Christmas and a great 2021, Robert. I appreciate all the time and effort you spend giving us all of the pictures and videos that help many of us in our hobby.
Mike
Have a very Merry Christmas and a great 2021, Robert. I appreciate all the time and effort you spend giving us all of the pictures and videos that help many of us in our hobby.
Mike
ct71rr
Well-known member
I’m finally caught up on this thread
!! I feel like I just went through an accelerated college class. I’ve learned a lot. I, like many, really appreciate you taking the time to do all this ...now i’ve got nothing to do at work.
!! I feel like I just went through an accelerated college class. I’ve learned a lot. I, like many, really appreciate you taking the time to do all this ...now i’ve got nothing to do at work.zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wish I were closer Robert as I would be taking one of those off your hands. Hope you can find a worthy new home for them.
Thanks for all the comments guys!
Far be it for me to leave you unproductive so try out these threads as well...
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53534
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86935
Enjoy!!
Mike, I was thinking this style brake would be ideal for you when you got the finger brake a while back. Likely more suited to some of the frame and bumper brackets you make up..
I’m finally caught up on this thread
Far be it for me to leave you unproductive
so try out these threads as well...https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53534
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86935
Enjoy!!
Mike, I was thinking this style brake would be ideal for you when you got the finger brake a while back. Likely more suited to some of the frame and bumper brackets you make up..
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed Robert. I would love to have a press brake style to compliment my pan brake. One of those would come in handy in my shop.