RADcustom
Well-known member
Thats a safety weld designed to break loose in an accident.
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
GreyOwl
Well-known member
It looks like the unjoints are not quite in phase either 
That all could have ended badly if not found.
That all could have ended badly if not found.
Pressingonward
Well-known member
Wow. I've seen lots of bad wiring, but that looks like a serious contender for the top prize. Glad you caught the steering shaft support weld...wonder what else he's touched...
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Spaghetti wiring and bird poop welds (on steering no less), oh boy..
Progress on the 39's wiring, let's show this with a before and after sequence..
This car has the battery mounted behind the passenger seat, and the orange cable shown is the positive cable. (ground cable hidden above muffler) Both cables exit directly above muffler with not quite enough room for a good bend radius, as shown by the melted insulation.
The other hoses shown are the heat and AC lines as that is also located behind the driver's seat. We relocated the battery cable entry points to in front of the muffler. The heat and AC lines were re-dressed and loop clamped to get them farther away from the muffler.. Rubber plugs were used to fill the old holes.
This is the previous location of the fuse box (it's in there someplace)
With the fuse box relocated under the dash, the floor area is cleared up with less chance of stepping on wires. The radio and antenna cabling will be routed into the glove box, the radio location.
Previous underdash:
Fabricated plate for mounting fuse box up under the dash..
Steering knuckle sleeve weld...
Despite grinding out the mud dauber's nest and wiping multiple times with acetone, we still got a pin hole in the weld. To limit damage (shrinking) from excessive heat we left it with the pin hole. Still much better than what was there prior.
The links for the front sway bar as well as the radius arms had little left for bushings. The local auto parts store was not much help for replacement parts, so some delrin round stock was used to fabricate bushings.
The tag light insulator was hard plastic and brittle, so our attempts to install a longer wire for the light resulted in a broken insulator. More delrin to the rescue..
Left to do is the front end/engine compartment and re-assembly.
This car has the battery mounted behind the passenger seat, and the orange cable shown is the positive cable. (ground cable hidden above muffler) Both cables exit directly above muffler with not quite enough room for a good bend radius, as shown by the melted insulation.
The other hoses shown are the heat and AC lines as that is also located behind the driver's seat. We relocated the battery cable entry points to in front of the muffler. The heat and AC lines were re-dressed and loop clamped to get them farther away from the muffler.. Rubber plugs were used to fill the old holes.
This is the previous location of the fuse box (it's in there someplace)
With the fuse box relocated under the dash, the floor area is cleared up with less chance of stepping on wires. The radio and antenna cabling will be routed into the glove box, the radio location.
Previous underdash:
Fabricated plate for mounting fuse box up under the dash..
Steering knuckle sleeve weld...
Despite grinding out the mud dauber's nest and wiping multiple times with acetone, we still got a pin hole in the weld. To limit damage (shrinking) from excessive heat we left it with the pin hole. Still much better than what was there prior.
The links for the front sway bar as well as the radius arms had little left for bushings. The local auto parts store was not much help for replacement parts, so some delrin round stock was used to fabricate bushings.
The tag light insulator was hard plastic and brittle, so our attempts to install a longer wire for the light resulted in a broken insulator. More delrin to the rescue..
Left to do is the front end/engine compartment and re-assembly.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great work as always Robert. Very clean work and I'm sure the owner will be pleased.
jimkinney
Well-known member
Nice work Robert.
Lathes sure come in handy for projects like these.
Lathes sure come in handy for projects like these.
A recent find of some metalshaping tools, finally found a stake plate and stake anvils... Along with some dolly's I didn't have..
The wiring harness installed, here's our first test start of the 39....
Lighting tests:
With that, the 39 has left the building... Here's the test drive taking it home. Also found out the easy way of opening the ash tray...
The wiring harness installed, here's our first test start of the 39....
Lighting tests:
With that, the 39 has left the building... Here's the test drive taking it home. Also found out the easy way of opening the ash tray...
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Nice score on the shaping and forming stuff. That 39 seems real nice!! any other plans for it?
jimkinney
Well-known member
Agree, nice score.
The ash tray spring needs a little more tension, or you gotta keep your foot out of it.
The ash tray spring needs a little more tension, or you gotta keep your foot out of it.
xtremek
Well-known member
Just checking in on one of the best thread on the internet. Hope things are going well.
So, the latest project in the shop is the fabrication of a splice trailer for the day job, we have a major fiber plant install at a local military installation. Weather conditions are getting less hospitable for outside work, so we need to provide a controlled environment for our fiber techs.
Due to access limitations on the post we needed a mobile platform that is as "cozy" as practical; we settled on a 5x8 enclosed trailer.
First order of business is to correct the flaws inherent with trailers. To start, their wiring leaves much to be desired.
These "impaling" splices are the highest failure points on trailer wiring.
Then there are the ground wires that never get connected.
If you've ever wondered how wasp nests got into the walls of your trailer... This was corrected using insect resistant expanding foam and the foam board used for insulation was heated to promote bending into a radius that matched the outer panel
Since we needed to add insulation and ceiling panels, we also needed to move the wiring from where the factory had it pinched in the corner. Once we had removed all the wall panels (plywood) We dropped the wiring a couple inches, and using rubber grommets, ran it through the wall studs.
Impaling splices were replaced using insulated **** splices and Mil-spec crimpers.
And grounds taken to actual ring terminals at the bolts for rear door latches.
Next, we needed to add some structural members to support the roof mounted heat/AC unit. To keep heat off the outer skin, two pieces of 16 gauge steel with an air gap (note rods) do the trick.
...and for our power panel...
and rivnuts added to mount the power panel.
The factory installed door stop/stay was plastic and did not begin to align with the catch. We replaced it with a steel version that we could bend into alignment..
In order to bring the cables inside the controlled environment, we need an access panel, similar to this one...
So we also added some structural members behind the curbside door to facilitate this opening without deflection from top to bottom.
AC unit installed....
More to come...
Due to access limitations on the post we needed a mobile platform that is as "cozy" as practical; we settled on a 5x8 enclosed trailer.
First order of business is to correct the flaws inherent with trailers. To start, their wiring leaves much to be desired.
These "impaling" splices are the highest failure points on trailer wiring.
Then there are the ground wires that never get connected.
If you've ever wondered how wasp nests got into the walls of your trailer... This was corrected using insect resistant expanding foam and the foam board used for insulation was heated to promote bending into a radius that matched the outer panel
Since we needed to add insulation and ceiling panels, we also needed to move the wiring from where the factory had it pinched in the corner. Once we had removed all the wall panels (plywood) We dropped the wiring a couple inches, and using rubber grommets, ran it through the wall studs.
Impaling splices were replaced using insulated **** splices and Mil-spec crimpers.
And grounds taken to actual ring terminals at the bolts for rear door latches.
Next, we needed to add some structural members to support the roof mounted heat/AC unit. To keep heat off the outer skin, two pieces of 16 gauge steel with an air gap (note rods) do the trick.
...and for our power panel...
and rivnuts added to mount the power panel.
The factory installed door stop/stay was plastic and did not begin to align with the catch. We replaced it with a steel version that we could bend into alignment..
In order to bring the cables inside the controlled environment, we need an access panel, similar to this one...
So we also added some structural members behind the curbside door to facilitate this opening without deflection from top to bottom.
AC unit installed....
More to come...
Last edited:
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I feel your pain having to correct the wiring on the trailer Robert. I had a couple of enclosed race trailers over the past 30 years and each of them required much the same treatment. I HATED those freakin' 3M Scotchlok pieces of **** and the grounds were just interruptions waiting to happen. I corrected those on mine as well and drove down the highways with confidence that I wouldn't have electrical issues or those flickering lights that drive me absolutely bonkers when I see them.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
“Up ahead in the distance
I saw a shimmering light.
My head grew heavy and
my sight grew dim,
I had to stop for the night.”
xtremek
Well-known member
The engineer who developed Scotchloks should be flogged, then made to rewire every trailer and trailer hitch ever put together with them.
36racin
Active member
WoW after being away from this page for quite some time I returned to the same great page with its master metal worker and his assistant. Question...Do you do normal repairs or do you perfer the builds with complicated work needed....I have a car needing minimal rust repair and total repaint back to factory color. Is the waiting list long(bet so)
Todd
Todd
larry4406
Well-known member
You are first after me...
Another 2x2 added underneath along with some cross ties so we can add some stabilizing/leveling jacks..
Genset connection/input into the power panel
Also working on the cable pass through today, the frame for the hole opening was bent out of .090 5052-H32 aluminum and welded together. The Tight-Seal strip brush will help to keep out the elements with the cables in the slot, and 3/8 square stock is used on the inside as a backing for the bristles, which will help them keep water flowing outside.
A hinged door using bulb seal will close things up when not in use.
Genset connection/input into the power panel
Also working on the cable pass through today, the frame for the hole opening was bent out of .090 5052-H32 aluminum and welded together. The Tight-Seal strip brush will help to keep out the elements with the cables in the slot, and 3/8 square stock is used on the inside as a backing for the bristles, which will help them keep water flowing outside.
A hinged door using bulb seal will close things up when not in use.
larry4406
Well-known member
Very clever brush seal to bring the fiber ends into the trailer.
Are you installing some sort of interior block off panel so a thief can't reach in and turn the door knob from the inside?
Are you installing some sort of interior block off panel so a thief can't reach in and turn the door knob from the inside?
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Robert, great trailer. The fiber guys will love such a posh place to terminate and splice. I did that job for a winter, I had a small ceramic heater and our door was a few flaps of welding shield. It was pretty primitive, but I didn’t freeze and we made our deadline. Great job shoring up that terrible factory wiring. it seams there has been quite a bit of that here lately. My favorite is the ground to nowhere……………………………
Thanks for all the comments, guys! Progress continues on the trailer, we needed to fold a couple flanges on the ends of our "picture frame" to be able to tie off the cut ends of the door jamb in the middle. The frame would not fit easily into either of our brakes, so a sketchy solution was employed... The dies were offset to the side to allow room for the frame to fit into the press brake.
After a test fit, the corners of our flanges were welded and the welds dressed.
Then our track for the brush seal was installed using solid rivets
...as well as the water diversion bars
Brush seal installed and given a trial run using the welder's power cord..
A test fit of the cable passage door....
Cut to size and piano hinge installed...
A microstop gets all our countersink depths consistent.
Next, the original side door's security latching bar had to be removed in order for the access door to swing open as the vertical tube interfered.....
Reference:
In order to clear our access door, the vertical tube was removed from the equation and a single hinge employed just below the access door. Required some cutting and TIG welding. Stainless carriage bolts were used for fastening through the wall stud, and 3/8-16 rivnuts make an impromptu low-profile nut that will easily be hidden behind our plywood wall panels.
During final assembly these will get some Loctite sleeve retainer fluid and get tightened using vise grips.
Bulb seal added to verify our design...
The door got some angle braces to keep things nice and flat. The piano hinge pop rivets into the frame are temporary, when all the parts get removed for white powder coating we'll add some rivnuts to the three holes in the wall stud and reassembly will make use of 10-32 pan head screws.
After a test fit, the corners of our flanges were welded and the welds dressed.
Then our track for the brush seal was installed using solid rivets
...as well as the water diversion bars
Brush seal installed and given a trial run using the welder's power cord..
A test fit of the cable passage door....
Cut to size and piano hinge installed...
A microstop gets all our countersink depths consistent.
Next, the original side door's security latching bar had to be removed in order for the access door to swing open as the vertical tube interfered.....
Reference:
In order to clear our access door, the vertical tube was removed from the equation and a single hinge employed just below the access door. Required some cutting and TIG welding. Stainless carriage bolts were used for fastening through the wall stud, and 3/8-16 rivnuts make an impromptu low-profile nut that will easily be hidden behind our plywood wall panels.
During final assembly these will get some Loctite sleeve retainer fluid and get tightened using vise grips.
Bulb seal added to verify our design...
The door got some angle braces to keep things nice and flat. The piano hinge pop rivets into the frame are temporary, when all the parts get removed for white powder coating we'll add some rivnuts to the three holes in the wall stud and reassembly will make use of 10-32 pan head screws.
Rockable
Well-known member
Great work as always, Robert!
What's the status on the 55 Wagon?
What's the status on the 55 Wagon?
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,019
Excellent work, again.
When I was working on a concession trailer, the inspection to comply also included a means to lock out the crossbar so an occupant couldn't be trapped inside with no escape route. Are you planning to put another locking bar hasp to hold the cross bar open? Thought it might help keep it out of the way and immobile while wires/cords are being drug over it.
When I was working on a concession trailer, the inspection to comply also included a means to lock out the crossbar so an occupant couldn't be trapped inside with no escape route. Are you planning to put another locking bar hasp to hold the cross bar open? Thought it might help keep it out of the way and immobile while wires/cords are being drug over it.
Whilst all this welding, cutting, and grinding are commencing, the 55 is covered up.
We don’t have any spare of the locking bar hasps and I’m over budget now (go figure). Presently it hangs straight down so it (fingers crossed) shouldn’t be in their way. For the cables and slice housings being brought in and out, for the most part they will be carried through the entry door and then cables shoved sideways into the sealing brush as they are placed on the workbench, so the entry door could be closed. That’s the concept, but then you never know how things play out on a job site. Was the “lock open” a requirement of a local inspecting authority or ??
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,019
The "lock open" is an Oregon standard for the food truck/trailer inspections. Your application may be different. We ended up just locking the hasp on the door with the cross bar swing back towards the trailer body. With the lock in place there is no where for the cross bar to catch and trap someone inside. The standard practice is usually a second hasp to hold the cross bar against the trailer body. In your case, I was more thinking of how to trap the lever out of the way while the guys are working. I built the food trailer with the mindset of building a rental, so idiot proof it as much as possible.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Excellent job as always Robert. You never disappoint. 
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Excellent job as always Robert. You never disappoint.
That’s not true- sometimes we have to wait weeks for his next post!
Scotchloks, I thought they were called comeback connectors.
shortykorte
Well-known member
The converted fiber optic trailers are popular here in Florida and 5x8 seems to be the usual size. None are probably as nice as this one will be.
Definitely not built for anyone claustrophobic.
Well now that we have bulb seal test completed on our access door, we find it needs a latching mechanism more than ever, as it pops open when the entry door swings open. We had planned on a latch, just hadn't gotten that far yet. Where the picture we drew inspiration from showed a slide bolt latch....
.... this would interfere with the sealing brush in the opening. None of the latch selection in McMaster seemed small enough for the confines present, so let's just come up with our own. While looking at quick release pins and spring plungers, we ran across this mounting base for a spring plunger.
www.mcmaster.com
This got the wheels turning; some stainless piano hinge could serve to fabricate our own. So, we settled on 3/16 quick release pins with lanyards to keep them from disappearing, and piano hinge to fabricate our mounting bases.
The roll was tack welded, added insurance that it won't open up later...
The frame for our opening was removed once again, and our mounting bases installed using solid rivets. Then the pin's hole gets transferred to the frame and drilled out with a very long drill bit.
With frame and access door reinstalled, the quick release pins are inserted to align and clamp the smaller mounting bases for the access door.
and a video of it in operation
Well now that we have bulb seal test completed on our access door, we find it needs a latching mechanism more than ever, as it pops open when the entry door swings open. We had planned on a latch, just hadn't gotten that far yet. Where the picture we drew inspiration from showed a slide bolt latch....
.... this would interfere with the sealing brush in the opening. None of the latch selection in McMaster seemed small enough for the confines present, so let's just come up with our own. While looking at quick release pins and spring plungers, we ran across this mounting base for a spring plunger.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com
This got the wheels turning; some stainless piano hinge could serve to fabricate our own. So, we settled on 3/16 quick release pins with lanyards to keep them from disappearing, and piano hinge to fabricate our mounting bases.
The roll was tack welded, added insurance that it won't open up later...
The frame for our opening was removed once again, and our mounting bases installed using solid rivets. Then the pin's hole gets transferred to the frame and drilled out with a very long drill bit.
With frame and access door reinstalled, the quick release pins are inserted to align and clamp the smaller mounting bases for the access door.
and a video of it in operation
Our pass-through door parts were media blasted and sent for powder coating.
The holes we drilled for the door's hinge we had planned on using riv-nuts, but we were a bit too tight to the side wall of the stud. Setting the riv-nut (and the resulting swage) would have pushed it sideways and threw off our door alignment.
So, we installed the riv-nuts in their unset form from the rear of the stud, held in place with a bit of fusion welding with the TIG.
Next, we started on the installation of our FRP ceiling panels, painted rivets into the ceiling "trusses" and construction adhesive to the insulation to help keep it flat and sag-free.
Our pass-through parts returned from powder coating...
We started putting the wall panels back in; some of the plywood was replaced to eliminate some of the piss poor cuts and the subsequent need for all those strips covering the seams (gaps).
And we started this evening welding the frame together for the work bench. Tomorrow we should start on some paint on the walls and more welding..
The holes we drilled for the door's hinge we had planned on using riv-nuts, but we were a bit too tight to the side wall of the stud. Setting the riv-nut (and the resulting swage) would have pushed it sideways and threw off our door alignment.
So, we installed the riv-nuts in their unset form from the rear of the stud, held in place with a bit of fusion welding with the TIG.
Next, we started on the installation of our FRP ceiling panels, painted rivets into the ceiling "trusses" and construction adhesive to the insulation to help keep it flat and sag-free.
Our pass-through parts returned from powder coating...
We started putting the wall panels back in; some of the plywood was replaced to eliminate some of the piss poor cuts and the subsequent need for all those strips covering the seams (gaps).
And we started this evening welding the frame together for the work bench. Tomorrow we should start on some paint on the walls and more welding..
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Very nice Robert!
xtremek
Well-known member
Very nice. Are you fully recovered from the illness you had a little back?
yes, thanks for checking on me..
Started the main part of the work bench yesterday, legs 1x1 aluminum, table support 1x2 aluminum tubing, still need to add in a few gussets.
Looks like we need the XL version of the workmate.. Here's our layout, the workbench will get a fold up section to complete a side-to-side work bench and still provide walkaround access. For the table top we'll use our wire edge dies in the Lennox to add a raised bead on the edges to prevent anything from rolling off (fiber strands) into someone's lap.
Spare tire bracket bolts into rivnuts there under the table.
Today is all the electrical, floor covering, and table completion.
Started the main part of the work bench yesterday, legs 1x1 aluminum, table support 1x2 aluminum tubing, still need to add in a few gussets.
Looks like we need the XL version of the workmate.. Here's our layout, the workbench will get a fold up section to complete a side-to-side work bench and still provide walkaround access. For the table top we'll use our wire edge dies in the Lennox to add a raised bead on the edges to prevent anything from rolling off (fiber strands) into someone's lap.
Spare tire bracket bolts into rivnuts there under the table.
Today is all the electrical, floor covering, and table completion.
Last edited:
xtremek
Well-known member
This is getting good. Ok it's always been good, but it's getting finish line interesting.
xtremek
Well-known member
Since you seem to be one of the most knowledgable people I know when it comes to body work and paint I have a few questions for you. First, I'm getting a 5.9 Cummins rebuilt to put in my hot rod dump truck ('52 Chevy COE). It will be used to haul our travel trailer across the country, and go to car shows. How would you paint it? At what point in the rebuild process would you paint it? Next question, where can I go to get paint chips/samples? Thinking a medium dark blue for the truck body, and a medium to light blue for the engine and trans.
I would paint it after all is rebuilt just before ready to drop in. Scuff everything (factory paint?) well with a scotchbrite pad, and do multiple applications/wipings of wax-grease remover. Then I’d do a sealer coat with SPI epoxy thinned about 10% , let that flash, and spray catalyzed Urethane.