MRCOOL DIY Mini Split, Seriously, I Think...
- Thread starter Spdstr280Z
- Start date
BuickFarmer
Well-known member
Trying to figure out placement and running of lines for 2 MrCool units in my Buick Sales and Service garage. Both will be on interior walls that I am currently working on installing insulation and very shortly will be installing wall board on to. Quick Question: I plan to run the line set from the inside unit into the wall then up into the attic then over to and down the outside wall. Understanding that the condensate line is gravity flow and cant be run up into the attic, can the condensate line from the inside unit be ran separate, say from the unit, through the wall studs and to the exterior wall.
Ilikeike
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I don't see why not, as long as it has fall and there's no belly's in it, it should do it's job no matter the path you take.,
BuickFarmer
Well-known member
Tha's what I was thinking, just wondering if the configuration of the line exiting the unit would allow it. I probably need to study up on the nomenclature of the unit and installation instructions more. Thanks @Ilikeike
Varinn
Member
This seems to be the go-to thread for mini-split discussions, so I figure this is the place to put my question in.
I'm in Vancouver BC and looking at adding a mini-split for our 35 year old 2x4 framed house. 1200 sqft downstairs (ducted w/furnace) and 600sqft up (baseboard heat, no duct). Our master bedroom faces south with large windows, so I was thinking of getting a 36kbtu unit from Senville or MrCool. All of our windows are brand new and well sealed, the furnace is new and is set to continually circulate on the main floor/crawlspace. Crawlspace is sealed and insulated.
If Senville it would be this, specced to 9/9/12/12
senville.ca
MrCool would be 36k with 9/9/12/18 indoor with the 18k for the bottom floor.
Which would you guys suggest? One of the 9k rooms is a rarely used spare bedroom, one is an office. The goal isn't to sit at 18c all day but to bring the scorching hot days to a comfortable low 20's in the main living space and bedroom and to allow us to remove the baseboard heating from the bedrooms.
I have a good placement location outside already but I'd really like to buy one that would allow me to shorten the lineset to avoid needing any coils. I've heard MrCool can be a ******* in this regard even with the help of professionals.
I'm in Vancouver BC and looking at adding a mini-split for our 35 year old 2x4 framed house. 1200 sqft downstairs (ducted w/furnace) and 600sqft up (baseboard heat, no duct). Our master bedroom faces south with large windows, so I was thinking of getting a 36kbtu unit from Senville or MrCool. All of our windows are brand new and well sealed, the furnace is new and is set to continually circulate on the main floor/crawlspace. Crawlspace is sealed and insulated.
If Senville it would be this, specced to 9/9/12/12
36000 BTU Quad Zone Mini Split Air Conditioner - Heat Pump - SENA/36HF/Q
Looking for a quad zone mini split air conditioner? This 36000 BTU quad zone mini split offers high efficiency heating and cooling.
senville.ca
MrCool would be 36k with 9/9/12/18 indoor with the 18k for the bottom floor.
Which would you guys suggest? One of the 9k rooms is a rarely used spare bedroom, one is an office. The goal isn't to sit at 18c all day but to bring the scorching hot days to a comfortable low 20's in the main living space and bedroom and to allow us to remove the baseboard heating from the bedrooms.
I have a good placement location outside already but I'd really like to buy one that would allow me to shorten the lineset to avoid needing any coils. I've heard MrCool can be a ******* in this regard even with the help of professionals.
Fueler
Well-known member
Baseboard heating means hot water I assume. I would not remove them until you see how the mini holds up in super cold weather.
Varinn
Member
Sorry no, didn't clarify. Our baseboard heaters are electric. In reality we already removed the one from the master bedroom as it was in an awkward location that limited room layout options. The others are turned off 95% of the time as we get a fair amount of heat rising through our central staircase and have been ok with it to a degree. Any heat output from the split system would probably be more than we need.
Varinn
Member
Well I just got a quote for my MrCool config and the price is nearly double that of Senville at nearly $7,000cdn (vs $3600). Barring some serious "get what you pay for" issues with the Senville it looks like it will by my best option.
Will I have issues running a 36k but unit without really pushing the limits of the air handlers? Because we only really need cooling frequently in the two larger spaces (12k each) it really doesn't put much demand on it, especially when considering we also have a furnace feeding one of the zones for heating purposes.
Will I have issues running a 36k but unit without really pushing the limits of the air handlers? Because we only really need cooling frequently in the two larger spaces (12k each) it really doesn't put much demand on it, especially when considering we also have a furnace feeding one of the zones for heating purposes.
Phuckin' Jim
Well-known member
The Senville, Mr. Cool, and Pioneer are all made in the same plant afaik.
Quality should be the same.
Quality should be the same.
BuickFarmer
Well-known member
Does anyone know the size of the vinyl condensate tubing on a MrCool 36,000 btu unit. I need to install one in an interior wall so I can proceed with building out the wall and wall board as far as possible while waiting on the units to arrive.
Condensate drain...
You could call Ingram's, but I have to assume they're all the same - it's half inch corrugated tubing. If it were me I would use 3/4 pvc and just run the condensate to it/through it. Yes, the drain is completely separate from the lineset.
For these units I'm not a fan of running things inside the walls. Always seems like there's a chance the lineset needs to be replaced. If it's all solid copper - liquid and suction - you're probly fine. Terminals can be re-done on an existing lineset.
Vancouver...
The difference between the 'standard' units like Seville verses the Mr.Cool DIY is the lineset. The former you need an installer to vacuum, test, and turn on the unit. The latter you just hook up the lines and go. The downside for this advantage is the fixed-length lineset, but I understand there are at least a couple of choices now.
Mr. Cool will work fine in Vancouver. The weather is the same as Seattle - it never gets too cold. They're rated for well below zero, C or F.
You could call Ingram's, but I have to assume they're all the same - it's half inch corrugated tubing. If it were me I would use 3/4 pvc and just run the condensate to it/through it. Yes, the drain is completely separate from the lineset.
For these units I'm not a fan of running things inside the walls. Always seems like there's a chance the lineset needs to be replaced. If it's all solid copper - liquid and suction - you're probly fine. Terminals can be re-done on an existing lineset.
Vancouver...
The difference between the 'standard' units like Seville verses the Mr.Cool DIY is the lineset. The former you need an installer to vacuum, test, and turn on the unit. The latter you just hook up the lines and go. The downside for this advantage is the fixed-length lineset, but I understand there are at least a couple of choices now.
Mr. Cool will work fine in Vancouver. The weather is the same as Seattle - it never gets too cold. They're rated for well below zero, C or F.
justinjoyal
Well-known member
5/8 ID fits right over the factory drain hose.
v10climber
Active member
250
Well-known member
I picked up a 18k Mr Cool for the shop. I unboxed the main unit on friday to start mocking up the various lines and was greeted with this. Not even sure what this is for.
Option 1. Figure out an exchange. HD is about an hour away, so it would take a morning to do in person.
Option 2. Live with it. I won't see that side anyways and I doubt it effects the function.
Recommendations?
Option 1. Figure out an exchange. HD is about an hour away, so it would take a morning to do in person.
Option 2. Live with it. I won't see that side anyways and I doubt it effects the function.
Recommendations?
Phuckin' Jim
Well-known member
Just the outdoor air temperature sensor.
You can just leave it as is.
Straighten the fins with your fingernail or a small flat screwdriver if you wish.
You can just leave it as is.
Straighten the fins with your fingernail or a small flat screwdriver if you wish.
motterpaul
Well-known member
IMO Mr Cool is way overpriced, especially for the room sizes you posted. I have a 1600 sq ft house and just use 2 Pioneer 12k BTU minis. Total cost to me about $1500, plus about $300 in tools to DIY both of them.
Mr Cool is also DYI and a little easier to get the install done (all the lines are already connected, so while it is tricky to run the lineset (with both ends already connected), the upside is you do not need to connect any flare joints, pull a vacuum or run a nitrogen test.
But the price difference - boy oh boy.
Mr Cool is also DYI and a little easier to get the install done (all the lines are already connected, so while it is tricky to run the lineset (with both ends already connected), the upside is you do not need to connect any flare joints, pull a vacuum or run a nitrogen test.
But the price difference - boy oh boy.
12K units are cheaper - I gave $800 for my Mr. Cool DIY - a scratch and dent one. Even so, I think full price is about a grand. Yes, it's a little more, but not having to hire an HVAC tech for $100 an hour can be well worth it.
The newest units have schraeder type line connects on both ends now so they don't come pre-attached to the air handler. And on at least some models you can choose the lineset length.
I've never really understood these comments from users, and it's fairly common actually, that just don't get the DIY concept. If it doesn't apply then it doesn't apply. It's not like there's some great huge difference in cost to just buy the unit - you're money way ahead not having to hire a tech. If that doesn't apply to you then you don't need the convenience. Mr. Cool sells both types of split systems - pro install AND do it yourself. It makes no sense for most to buy all the tools and equipment for one installation of a standard type unit.
My house is about 1600 square feet too, but two smaller units would in no possible way be able to keep up with heat-gain mid-summer. It has 15' ceilings, 8 single pane sliding doors, 4 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, and no insulation! LOL
The newest units have schraeder type line connects on both ends now so they don't come pre-attached to the air handler. And on at least some models you can choose the lineset length.
I've never really understood these comments from users, and it's fairly common actually, that just don't get the DIY concept. If it doesn't apply then it doesn't apply. It's not like there's some great huge difference in cost to just buy the unit - you're money way ahead not having to hire a tech. If that doesn't apply to you then you don't need the convenience. Mr. Cool sells both types of split systems - pro install AND do it yourself. It makes no sense for most to buy all the tools and equipment for one installation of a standard type unit.
My house is about 1600 square feet too, but two smaller units would in no possible way be able to keep up with heat-gain mid-summer. It has 15' ceilings, 8 single pane sliding doors, 4 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, and no insulation! LOL
justinjoyal
Well-known member
I picked up a 18k Mr Cool for the shop. I unboxed the main unit on friday to start mocking up the various lines and was greeted with this. Not even sure what this is for.
Option 1. Figure out an exchange. HD is about an hour away, so it would take a morning to do in person.
Option 2. Live with it. I won't see that side anyways and I doubt it effects the function.
Recommendations?
There is nothing wrong. That sensor is suposed to be there.
John Timmins
Well-known member
Jason, I'm studying to install for a 25x30 with 9 foot ceilings. I'm thinking the 18000 cool only. What came in that accessory bag for $1200?
The outside unit, inside unit are about 5-6 feet away from the electrical panel in the garage. I'm concerned about that pre-charged refrigerant line being too long and have a crummy looking job.
The doors are insulated. I will probably have insulation blown in above the ceiling drywall
The outside unit, inside unit are about 5-6 feet away from the electrical panel in the garage. I'm concerned about that pre-charged refrigerant line being too long and have a crummy looking job.
The doors are insulated. I will probably have insulation blown in above the ceiling drywall
cspcrx
Well-known member
Anyone know why the DIY Gen 3 units state do not attempt left side exit for line set?
Also keep seeing mention of 16’ line set but on the DIY units, I’m looking at the 18k and 24k, I only see 25’. I have looked at Home Depot, Lowes and Costco.
Also keep seeing mention of 16’ line set but on the DIY units, I’m looking at the 18k and 24k, I only see 25’. I have looked at Home Depot, Lowes and Costco.
Fueler
Well-known member
A tip to save you some money.
7th year this month on a 3200 btu unit in my 40x40 pole barn shop. Cool in the summer and cuts down considerably on propane use in the winter. The propane guy is not amused.
HOWEVER, my own foolishness just cost me 800 bucks to fix the unit. You see I didn't clean the gutters last fall as is the norm.
Water poured out of the gutter onto the unit and froze. Some of the ice made it's way to near the fan blade.
The fan blade broke and a piece flew off and punctured a little, itty, bitty hole in one of the tubes. Unit threw a P2 code.
This protects the compressor but the troubleshoot is a bit vague. It's either out of freon or the board is toast. Checked the freon first. NADA, nothing. So fixed the little pin hole and called a pro.
Nitrogen tested, vacuumed, reloaded and back to work. Oh, also a new 100 dollar fan blade.
3 takeaways from this experience
1: I had sheet already picked and cut to make an awning over the unit.
Do not put this off as I did, especially if your unit is anywhere near a roof line.
2: If I have to replace the unit someday I will go with 2 smaller units.
These units when they get to this size are huge, heavy and particularly awkward to deal with. Even the inside unit is huge.
3: I clean the filters monthly but have my doubts as to their efficiency.
While this was down I did a deep clean on everything.
The amount of crud attached to the blower wheel was astounding. I think I am going to make up one of those furnace filter add ons over the inlet. Search youtube for mini split air filters.
7th year this month on a 3200 btu unit in my 40x40 pole barn shop. Cool in the summer and cuts down considerably on propane use in the winter. The propane guy is not amused.
HOWEVER, my own foolishness just cost me 800 bucks to fix the unit. You see I didn't clean the gutters last fall as is the norm.
Water poured out of the gutter onto the unit and froze. Some of the ice made it's way to near the fan blade.
The fan blade broke and a piece flew off and punctured a little, itty, bitty hole in one of the tubes. Unit threw a P2 code.
This protects the compressor but the troubleshoot is a bit vague. It's either out of freon or the board is toast. Checked the freon first. NADA, nothing. So fixed the little pin hole and called a pro.
Nitrogen tested, vacuumed, reloaded and back to work. Oh, also a new 100 dollar fan blade.
3 takeaways from this experience
1: I had sheet already picked and cut to make an awning over the unit.
Do not put this off as I did, especially if your unit is anywhere near a roof line.
2: If I have to replace the unit someday I will go with 2 smaller units.
These units when they get to this size are huge, heavy and particularly awkward to deal with. Even the inside unit is huge.
3: I clean the filters monthly but have my doubts as to their efficiency.
While this was down I did a deep clean on everything.
The amount of crud attached to the blower wheel was astounding. I think I am going to make up one of those furnace filter add ons over the inlet. Search youtube for mini split air filters.
Going on summer #3 with this 36K multi-head unit (have three heads, 9k, 9k, 12k). So far so good, knock on wood, the only issue I have is with the android app, SmartHVAC app version 5.2.8, it seems randomly the air-handler units show as "online" or "offline", just totally random. Sometimes I have to use the app, sometimes I have to use the remotes. Anyone else have this problem? Support ([email protected]) is no help
My Old Tools
Well-known member
yes, mine runs separate
EDIT: they got back to me:
Following are internet/Wi-Fi requirements for Cielo Smart controllers.
1. The router is set to transmit on 2.4 GHz. (Presently Cielo Smart controllers does not support 5 GHz network routers)
2. Make sure there is no proxy server or authentication server configured on your internet connection
3. Make sure there is no captive portal on your Wi-Fi Router
4. Make sure there is no Client isolation or Ip isolation is configured on Wi-Fi router
Some of the ports on your Wi-Fi router may be blocked. Please make sure that the following ports are not restricted on your Wi-Fi router:
• TCP: 9998
• UDP: 9999
• HTTPS: 443
• HTTP: 80
Note: Your internet provider may have a built-in firewall or proxy. In this case, please check with your ISP.
----------------------
I logged into my router and noticed that 5G and 2.4G were both enabled, then looked at devices on the network and it was a mix, some using 2.4, some 5..So I disabled 5GHz and with everything on 2.4GHz only, so far so good (in case anyone else runs into this..)
If you need devices on the 5GHz spectrum for bandwidth, I would just create a seperate wireless network, or put the Mr. Cool handlers on the guest network and disable 5G
jimmiller2
Active member
I put a new $900 truwall motel type unit in my new garage four years ago. Amana unit bought online. Works great for heat and cool.
Attachments
Beware the YT knuckleheads - lots of vids on installing Mr.Cool minis. Unfortunately, anybody with a go-pro thinks they're some kind of authority, know-it-all, or brainiac. So much FUD.
YT used to be a pretty good source for 'how-to-do-it' but it's going downhill fast. I guess people think they can make money posting their drivel.
YT used to be a pretty good source for 'how-to-do-it' but it's going downhill fast. I guess people think they can make money posting their drivel.
Would like an HVAC pro to recommend a decent MrCool install YouTube. For those of us not in the profession it would be very helpful, as it is hard to suss out the bad ones.
Fueler
Well-known member
Referring to my post 981 about having to fix mine.
The pro did the nitrogen procedure and then pulled vacuum for 28 hours. Only that long because it was a weekend and he showed back up at his convenience. I did not mind.
I wish I had noted what micron he got it down to but he seemed surprised and pleased at the results.
Update: This outfit works way better than it did originally. Noticeably so. 100 + degree days don't faze it where in the past it was a bit iffy.
It makes me wonder if it had a full charge in the unit (diy) to begin with. As it all leaked out we don't know for sure what was in there.
I think I am going to add the nitrogen components to my AC tool collection, save up for some of that golden r410a and freshen the units (also diy) on my house.
The pro did the nitrogen procedure and then pulled vacuum for 28 hours. Only that long because it was a weekend and he showed back up at his convenience. I did not mind.
I wish I had noted what micron he got it down to but he seemed surprised and pleased at the results.
Update: This outfit works way better than it did originally. Noticeably so. 100 + degree days don't faze it where in the past it was a bit iffy.
It makes me wonder if it had a full charge in the unit (diy) to begin with. As it all leaked out we don't know for sure what was in there.
I think I am going to add the nitrogen components to my AC tool collection, save up for some of that golden r410a and freshen the units (also diy) on my house.
The installs are straightforward .... you want to make sure you have read the manuals and understand the requirements.
Don't place the head unit too high on the wall if you have high ceilings or too close to the ceiling if the ceiling is low.
Watch the clearance for the outside unit -- they need room to breath. Also, watch what is above them -- both rain off a roof and snow. Make sure the unit will have room if in snow country -- you don't want 3' of snow covering the unit.
One of the most important things to be careful of when installing is the head units line set -- They all attach directly to the coil and many of the value brands have little in the way of protection when it comes to that joint. It was one of the items that was pointed out to me by a guy that does 100's of these things ... some of the units have nothing between the pipes and the coil -- any movement of the pipes is stressing that joint. It's important to hold the tubes at the inlet as you bend them. You also don't want to be doing it many times. This was a problem with the early Mr. Cools ..... with the line set attached it was very hard not to be stressing that joint as you set the head --- with the lineset flopping around. It can also be a problem if you want the pipes to come out a particular side -- on some units it's obvious that one side is better based on the design ... make sure to look as it often does not matter with install if you plan ahead. But it will matter if you burry the line set or if you want it to go out the back of the unit to the outside. The leaking flare joint and having a leak at that stressed coil joint are the common problems 3/4 years down the road
Don't place the head unit too high on the wall if you have high ceilings or too close to the ceiling if the ceiling is low.
Watch the clearance for the outside unit -- they need room to breath. Also, watch what is above them -- both rain off a roof and snow. Make sure the unit will have room if in snow country -- you don't want 3' of snow covering the unit.
One of the most important things to be careful of when installing is the head units line set -- They all attach directly to the coil and many of the value brands have little in the way of protection when it comes to that joint. It was one of the items that was pointed out to me by a guy that does 100's of these things ... some of the units have nothing between the pipes and the coil -- any movement of the pipes is stressing that joint. It's important to hold the tubes at the inlet as you bend them. You also don't want to be doing it many times. This was a problem with the early Mr. Cools ..... with the line set attached it was very hard not to be stressing that joint as you set the head --- with the lineset flopping around. It can also be a problem if you want the pipes to come out a particular side -- on some units it's obvious that one side is better based on the design ... make sure to look as it often does not matter with install if you plan ahead. But it will matter if you burry the line set or if you want it to go out the back of the unit to the outside. The leaking flare joint and having a leak at that stressed coil joint are the common problems 3/4 years down the road
Last edited:
Likely leaked from the start, so you never saw full capacity. They'll run pretty good when low, but the compressor runs out of freon so nothing is getting put thru to cool.
Mine did develop a leak at the fixed to flex union on the air handler - detailed up-thread. Ingrams replaced no questions asked, didn't want the old one back. I paid a tech to test and fully charge to spec, $100.
The older model had about a two-plus foot length of standard copper at the air handler, with the flex attached. Like yeldogt says, that can flex too much and break, or make a sharp turn behind the wall very difficult.
The newer units have a choice in lineset length, and it has the connectors at both ends, so you can attach the lineset after you hang the air handler. The biggest challenge of the whole install with the attached lineset, was feeding all that lineset in, up on the wall, and getting the air handler up there too - at least on the two-ton and larger ones. It's about 35lbs and the attached lineset makes handling it quite difficult, especially ten feet up a ladder. A helper on a second ladder would have made a huge difference.
Another common issue is what to do with excess lineset - the old standard 25' was often too long for the install, so the installer was faced with what to do with it. Per Mr. Cool, the importer, coiling it vertically was a no-no, as compressor oil can collect in the bottoms of the loops, running your compressor out of oil. Their recommendation was to move the compressor - outdoor unit - further away so you could stretch out the lines, or utilize lazy snaking of the lines.
My install is well documented up thread, but here's a recap on my 1-ton unit - excess lineset coiled horizontally in a weather cover, all in one. Killed two birds with one stone there, and didn't have to fuss with a sharp turn down outside the wall from the air handler.
Fighting the beast 10' up on the 2-ton unit:
We are on season five with ours, absolutely love them, they are fantastic, for both cooling AND heating.
250
Well-known member
What's the longest anyone has heard of a Mr Cool unit running without significant problems? Any >10 year installations out there? The AC portion of our traditional HVAC has died, and we don't love the current set up by any means. Longevity of the Mr Cool's is my last reservation for a house.
They're made the same as any other scroll compressor heatpump hvac unit.
The last piece of industry news I recall was the china manufacturer that makes the compressors had completed their 100-millionth one or some such ridiculous number. Mini splits are installed all over the world, particularly popular in third-world countries, cuz they're cheap and they don't have the infrastructure and building methods we do here in the US.
Or put another way, it's rather settled science, a mature industry.
If you want assurances and warranties and to spend lot of money, hire an HVAC pro to install a mitsubishi. You'll pay about twice as much, and they come from Japan instead of China or Singapore.
I got quotes for $4500 to $5500 for Daiken, Mitsubishi, and LG. The DIY option was $2300. I figured I could completely replace it once for the same cost, or three times for the quoted costs of a whole new central-air system. So far I'm WAY ahead, and would do it again in a heartbeat.
bluedog225
Well-known member
I think I’m convinced that 3 smaller units is the way to go.
Too bad YouTube removed the dislike button (due to politics). It helped distinguish the good from the carp.
Too bad YouTube removed the dislike button (due to politics). It helped distinguish the good from the carp.
250
Well-known member
@Browneye, thanks for the input. I can't get my wife on board for a mini split set up. She's worried about how the inside head units look and selling down the road. And I can't give her significant money savings over the HVAC companies quote for replacing just the AC. I told her I wouldn't fight her on it, but that she couldn't complain when the bedroom wasn't as comfortable as she'd like.
I've heard this from hvac pros before and thought it was a gimmick. My guess is she's passed dozens of them in your travels and just never noticed. Remember, it's always and ALL about the FEELZ.
If your furnace is over ten years old consider just replacing everything on a central system. An old evap coil needs to be either removed and cleaned or replaced with the new condenser, so with everything broken down it just makes sense to replace everything. Besides, a gas furnace is maybe 10% of a system cost - they're generally less than a grand for a medium sized home.
Since I was doing everything myself, and the old hvac system was close to fifty years old, but the gas furnace still worked great, I removed the evap out of the housing and just reassembled it. It was so caked with dirt I don't know how the air got thru there. Of course now it works just killer, LOTS of airflow now. Then removed the old lineset and took it and the old condenser to the recycle center to dump for free.
I got quotes from twelve thousand to eighteen thousand for a whole central system, 3-4 tons of air, we're 1650 sq ft with high ceilings and very little insulation. Fortunately in southern CA neither much heating or cooling is needed. But those weeks and weeks of 90* temps makes having some AC actually a necessity unless you don't mind sweltering in place. LOL
I mis-quoted my split cost up thread here, the 2-ton unit was about $1500, and the 1-ton was a scratch-n-dent for $800. So I have less than a quarter of what the pros wanted for a whole system, and we're comfy little critters.
I can't believe the comments on the looks of an air handler. My bet is 90% of women wouldn't even notice it, but they sure would if it was 90 degrees!
The master bedroom...big deal right? LOL One thing I would caution though, if you're putting an air handler in a bedroom, try to configure it so it's not blowing at the bed. It's just too cold! We end up setting it at 80 with a 1-hour shut off, then open the sliding door. Otherwise it freezes you out. Like winter in summer.
Living room. With 15' ceilings it's 10' up, so really it's above eye level, making is even more innocuous.
BTW, on resale, for a home in this value, if the buyer really wants central air, they can have one installed. So I don't really care - I spent a couple of grand instead of eighteen grand. The ducting is still there, just new equipment installed - gonna be the same cost as a replacement system anyway. The real estate selling fees are gonna be several times that anyway, an hvac system maybe one or two percent of the home value.
Thickness of copper in coils has a lot to do with difference in price. Even made in same factory. Now they are grooving the inside of the coil copper to get quicker heat transfer also referred to micro fins! I would hope the better brands are not doing this???
250
Well-known member
Thanks for all the commentary. Apparently the discussion is still open, much to my surprise. I just finished installing the Mr Cool unit in the garage and she seems to like how it functions out there.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Is it my imagination, or do the Mr. Cool’s seem to come up short on coolant/refrigerant after a few years. Makes me think there is a problem with the couplings or initial charge.
On a related note, recovering the refrigerant and weighing back in is difficult. I wonder if adding a little back in at a time until performance improved is a way to “cheat” while not taking too big a chance on destroying the compressor. Would that be a pound at a time? No idea what the right increment is.
On a related note, recovering the refrigerant and weighing back in is difficult. I wonder if adding a little back in at a time until performance improved is a way to “cheat” while not taking too big a chance on destroying the compressor. Would that be a pound at a time? No idea what the right increment is.
Dancing Bear
Well-known member
What an awesome thread to follow along with so far ... I've been looking at options for installing a 12K Mr. Cool DIY in the master bedroom of our home for the last week. From reading this thread since the beginning, it's been painful to see how much the price of these units has gone up in the last two years. I've heard that prices for A/C systems typically lower down in the winter months, has anyone seen if that holds true for mini-split units? I'd really like to see the prices come down a bit before picking one up.