My Audi project
- Thread starter Jehannum
- Start date
I'm sure it's that way in Albuquerque, NM.
Anyway, it passed emissions, so pressure's off on that front. Got everything dialed in on a 91 octane dyno tune today.
Made 398HP at 25PSI of bewst before hitting the boost cut up top, then we cut it back to 389HP at 20PSI for the street, since this is supposed to be the safe, 91 octane tune.
This thing's a hoot to drive.
Next thing to do is re-bush the rear suspension, replace the shocks back there, turn the caster offset bushings around up front, then get it aligned again.
Finally, put an IAT in that has readings that make sense, pop some E85 in, and let it eat that boost.
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dcg9381
Well-known member
Sheesh, that thing will pull to more than 7k?
What's the torque dip at 6.75?
What's the torque dip at 6.75?
Redline is 7200.
The dip was from when we hit the boost limiter.
My tuner took a guess and set the duty cycle on the wastegate solenoid to 25%, but left the 25PSI boost cut in place. It hit 25PSI there at 6750RPM and took a big whack out of the power by cutting spark to random cylinders.
The 389HP run was at 12.5% duty cycle on the wastegate solenoid.
I figure the turbo's got another 10PSI in it, but I really doubt I'll run it at 35PSI even if e85 supports that level of tomfoolery.
dcg9381
Well-known member
There's a button in the dash that's labelled "Funk" (original usage was in German police cars for switching the output of the speakers between the radio and the shortwave CB) that I've been thinking of running as a switch input to the ECU. Maybe I'll use that to engage the party map.
ericm
Well-known member
This is really cool. What did the smog test consist of?
Ohmthis
Well-known member
That’s awesome that you are up and running and better than ever. Impressive numbers!
They do a 5 gas analysis (hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, oxygen, and oxides of nitrogen), and AFR at idle and 2200-2800
The only standards it has are for carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons. So, basically, all I had to do was make sure that it wasn't misfiring at idle and high RPM.
CapriMikeC
Well-known member
Here in AZ, the smog testing is done on roller dynos. However, they're all single axle only so the full time AWD cars get idle sniffer only.
My 80's turds are all exempt from testing as collector cars but I run catalytic converters anyway for the sound control, the stink control, and there's no performance loss with the modern 3" cats.
My 80's turds are all exempt from testing as collector cars but I run catalytic converters anyway for the sound control, the stink control, and there's no performance loss with the modern 3" cats.
MrPink
Well-known member
Nice, i can imagine that it's a hoot to drive.
The Audi's low-side AC fitting is an M12-1.5 pipe fitting. Unsurprisingly, there aren't many cheap options out there to turn that into an R134A service port, so I ordered one off amazon (a standard 7/16-20 service port conversion for an R12 to R134A system), then fired up the lathe to make an adapter for my adapter.
The outside (7/16-20) I threaded on the machine. The inside is M12-1.5, and I had neither the patience to dig out my metric conversion tables and gears, nor a threading tool that would fit inside a hole that small, so I did it with a thread cutting tap and followed it up with a bottoming tap.
I'll part off the excess 7/16-20 tube when I figure out how shallow I can cut it.
Chamfered the edges, because that separates us from the animals. The boy put some knurling on it.
The outside (7/16-20) I threaded on the machine. The inside is M12-1.5, and I had neither the patience to dig out my metric conversion tables and gears, nor a threading tool that would fit inside a hole that small, so I did it with a thread cutting tap and followed it up with a bottoming tap.
I'll part off the excess 7/16-20 tube when I figure out how shallow I can cut it.
Chamfered the edges, because that separates us from the animals. The boy put some knurling on it.
bayseven#7
Member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2024
- Messages
- 8
Chamfered the edges, because that separates us from the animals.
BlondiHacks?
BlondiHacks?
MrPink
Well-known member
The A/C works awesome in my VW too, it's strange how well it works.
CapriMikeC
Well-known member
So, in the LOVELY heat dome here, I'm sorely missing my clutch fan. The coolant temperature will easily top 98C if I'm running the AC, which is well into my "this is f'n nerve wracking" threshold. Unfortunately, there's really no alternative, as it's NLA.
So I'm working to add an auxiliary radiator. I found a unit from a '12 Q5 that should fit in next to my oil cooler, now I have to mill up some splitters that'll live on the radiator feed and returns. The return has a nice steel pipe that I'll be able to weld on with no problem. The feed is a silicone radiator line, I'll probably cut it and lathe up a junction, mill a flat on it and then weld or drill/tap a fitting to the middle of it.
Then all I have to do is add a fan to that and I should be good.
So I'm working to add an auxiliary radiator. I found a unit from a '12 Q5 that should fit in next to my oil cooler, now I have to mill up some splitters that'll live on the radiator feed and returns. The return has a nice steel pipe that I'll be able to weld on with no problem. The feed is a silicone radiator line, I'll probably cut it and lathe up a junction, mill a flat on it and then weld or drill/tap a fitting to the middle of it.
Then all I have to do is add a fan to that and I should be good.
MrPink
Well-known member
I think the R32 came with an aux radiator so that would be something to look into also
ericm
Well-known member
Mk7 Golf R has aux radiators too.
New plan, I found a new fan blade!
So, I needed to undo the cut I took to get rid of the M24x1.5 mount to clear the electric fan.
Took some 1" round bar down to make a mandrel for my M24 die.
Hey, it fits!
Made it threaded:
Threaded the inside for the M8x1.25 that holds the whole thing into the bearing.
.002" runout, not too bad.
I know, I cheated not doing single point threading, and it's sort of possible to do metric threads on my SAE lathe. I did a couple scratch passes on some spare aluminum bar using the metric thread cheat sheet, but didn't really get anything lined up well, and the die was already on hand, so...
Anyway, I put the new old stock plastic fan back on and have been hot dogging around in the Audi without issue since.
So, I needed to undo the cut I took to get rid of the M24x1.5 mount to clear the electric fan.
Took some 1" round bar down to make a mandrel for my M24 die.
Hey, it fits!
Made it threaded:
Threaded the inside for the M8x1.25 that holds the whole thing into the bearing.
.002" runout, not too bad.
I know, I cheated not doing single point threading, and it's sort of possible to do metric threads on my SAE lathe. I did a couple scratch passes on some spare aluminum bar using the metric thread cheat sheet, but didn't really get anything lined up well, and the die was already on hand, so...
Anyway, I put the new old stock plastic fan back on and have been hot dogging around in the Audi without issue since.
Had to take the day to replace the bushings in the back of the Audi. Not entirely happy with the rearmost (because polyurethane doesn't do well under constant deflection), so I ordered an OE rubber bush for it and will do that job again when I get it in hand.
Burning the old stuff out:
New bushings installed:
The rear is the reason why I'm unhappy:
Now featuring shoes that are the correct size (previously had 60 series on instead of 50 series... doh!)
I went back around and cleaned up the burnt rubber that my boy left all over the driveway with the pressure washer, since he couldn't be bothered to do it in the rocks. I must learn to be more specific when I give him instructions.
Burning the old stuff out:
New bushings installed:
The rear is the reason why I'm unhappy:
Now featuring shoes that are the correct size (previously had 60 series on instead of 50 series... doh!)
I went back around and cleaned up the burnt rubber that my boy left all over the driveway with the pressure washer, since he couldn't be bothered to do it in the rocks. I must learn to be more specific when I give him instructions.
Wiz02
Well-known member
What symptoms drove your decision to re-bush the rear suspension?
I'm asking because my Caddy is making a thunking noise from the rear if you give it gas and let off the throttle, with or without touching the brakes
I'm asking because my Caddy is making a thunking noise from the rear if you give it gas and let off the throttle, with or without touching the brakes
When I took it to get aligned, they told me that I had two issues: the caster up front was way out of whack (because I'd installed my offset caster bushes backwards), and the passenger side rear toe was adjusted all the way out (because the bushing was disintegrating).
I'd caught it early enough that it hadn't totally failed.
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scooby074
Well-known member
Bitchin wagon! Should be quite a bit of a sleeper. Looks like a hell of a fun ride. Too bad all old Audis turned to dust up here with all the salt.
acer66
Well-known member
Nice and cool shirt.Fortunately, I have a great (and I mean really great) local hose company that worked with me to braze AN bungs on the hardlines coming off the fuel rail. They also were able to put new inverted flare 16mm fittings on the other side. The ethanol sensor lives right in the middle of the fuel return line, which tells the ECU how much ethanol is mixed in with this particular batch of gas.
They also made me some PTFE hoses for the turbo oil feed and return, while using the original flanges for the block-side, and as much of the original bent tube as possible.
Original bend with a -4AN fitting on one end, and a new PTFE braided hose for the oil feed:
-10AN PTFE braided stainless hose for the oil return, with the original flange brazed to a bung:
I had done the work to make the black rubber braided hoses for coolant feed/return. I also added a hardline that goes behind the timing cover to a coolant manifold under the intake manifold, which substitutes for a terrible, unreachable hose that everybody hates replacing, but is now nickel/copper 3/8" line on an AN fitting for me.
At this point, I was ready to put it in.
No, wait, the other thing. The engine, I was ready to put it in. **** it, I can't make that sound not dirty.
I keep looking at the three gauges on the right hand side of my dash (an analog clock, an oil temperature gauge, and a battery voltage gauge) thinking that they'd be much more useful if they showed data of value. The oil temp and voltage as displayed on the dash are pretty much pure fiction.
So I went online and ordered some stepper motors. The EMU Black already dumps out a bunch of stuff on the CANBus, which I can read via bluetooth and show on my phone now, but I can put any number of things on the network, so I thought maybe I could use a stepper motor for some relatively slow-changing data (like the *real* battery voltage, flex fuel percentage, and oil pressure), so I got my arduinos out and started playing.
My program flow is: read data, calculate needle position, reposition needle, rinse, repeat. Since I don't have it hooked up to the CANbus (I don't have a CAN receiver right at the moment), I substituted "read data" for a function that returns a random value between a min and max value.
It doesn't yet read CANbus, but there's a library out there, so once the CAN modules arrive from Captain Jeff of the Amazon, I'll be starting at that.
I have a spare dash in the attic, I'm going to go get it soon and figure out how I can get these mounted up with some nice ribbon cables to the arduinos (the stepper library blocks on movement, so I can't feasibly run three gauges on one arduino) and have better data at hand.
So I went online and ordered some stepper motors. The EMU Black already dumps out a bunch of stuff on the CANBus, which I can read via bluetooth and show on my phone now, but I can put any number of things on the network, so I thought maybe I could use a stepper motor for some relatively slow-changing data (like the *real* battery voltage, flex fuel percentage, and oil pressure), so I got my arduinos out and started playing.
My program flow is: read data, calculate needle position, reposition needle, rinse, repeat. Since I don't have it hooked up to the CANbus (I don't have a CAN receiver right at the moment), I substituted "read data" for a function that returns a random value between a min and max value.
It doesn't yet read CANbus, but there's a library out there, so once the CAN modules arrive from Captain Jeff of the Amazon, I'll be starting at that.
I have a spare dash in the attic, I'm going to go get it soon and figure out how I can get these mounted up with some nice ribbon cables to the arduinos (the stepper library blocks on movement, so I can't feasibly run three gauges on one arduino) and have better data at hand.
The rod to the master cylinder broke off again, right below the jam nut on the shaft, where it connects to the clevis on the pedal.
I'm thinking I'll measure carefully and sleeve the rod. Might replace the rod entirely, if it threads in.
Getting a LuK this time, the last one was a Sachs.
I'm thinking I'll measure carefully and sleeve the rod. Might replace the rod entirely, if it threads in.
Getting a LuK this time, the last one was a Sachs.
CapriMikeC
Well-known member
After only 300K miles? Have you checked warranty status?