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My Compressor Aftercooler Install

BCreekDave

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Dec 17, 2015
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Location
Dayton, OH
One thing to note when selecting an aftercooler size is, at least the way mine is plumbed is that when the compressor shuts down it blows down the contents of the aftercooler. The check valve is on the entry of the tank. An extra large aftercooler will be noisy emptying its contents through the small exhaust port. Just something to think about.


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stonesfan68

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Houston, TX
That AKG cooler is designed for compressed air, correct?

I took a look at the Hayden catalog for the 1290 oil cooler and found no design data. What is the pressure and temperature rating of the cooler?
 

pcmeiners

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The Hayden industrial units like the 1290 are rated for 300° and 350 psi....


"Copper tubing (¾” diameter) and continuous rippled aluminum fins maximize thermal efficiency at a low cost
Continuous rippled fins provide structural rigidity, increased surface area, and provide better air flow
Each tube is fitted with our SwirlFlow Turbulator, increasing heat transfer by up to 550% over bare tube heat exchangers
SwirlFlow Turbulator produces a high velocity, mixed flow that enhances self-cleaning for a maintenance-free operation

Plate Fin & Finned Tube Heat Exchanger
Specifications
•Maximum operating pressure of 300 PSI
•Maximum operating temperature of 350°"


https://www.haydenindustrial.com/products/fin-cool
 
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Scewter

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Apr 18, 2017
Messages
7
Hi folks, newbie here with first post. Love this forum. There is so much great info.

This message is in reply to pcmeiners post dated 01/18/2020. (Apparently I'm restricted from posting links until I have 5 or more posts...)

Been working on a design for the same thing the OP discussed in excellent detail. Very informative - so thnx for taking the time with that.

My reason for this post is to correct what may be a misconception regarding Hayden and their products that I was able to learn after talking to their employees. Hayden Automotive, which manufacturers the 1260 and 1290 Heavy Duty Oil Coolers that have been referenced here, is a completely different company than Hayden Industrial which also make heat exchangers. One is not a division of the other. Many years ago (approx 20?) they use to be under the same umbrella. Bottom line: Hayden Industrial does not manufacture the 1260 and the 1290.

I had been trying to get similar design data for pressure and temp limits on the 1260 and 1290 which is not published anywhere. It took a few phone calls but eventually got connected with an engineer for Hayden Automotive. The take away for me is the pressure rating on pretty much all the Hayden Automotive coolers is about 150 psi. The engineer went on to explain that Hayden Automotive does not need the higher pressure rating when dealing with oil/transmission cooling in the automotive sector. I don't remember the temperature limits but seem to recall they are not as high as the products from Hayden Industrial. Would they work as an aftercooler? Apparently they do as other's have experienced. Not bashing them at all.

The following information copied fm the previous post is taken from Hayden Industrial (as the poster made reference to)

"Plate Fin & Finned Tube Heat Exchanger
Specifications
•Maximum operating pressure of 300 PSI
•Maximum operating temperature of 350°"

These numbers are not the pressure rating and temp rating for the 1260 or the 1290. The 1260 and 1290 are made by Hayden Automotive. Again, these are two completely different companies that make products for different applications.

That important distinction took me quite a few days to get my head around. I'm posting this here in a effort to help others as they search for their own solutions to drying compressed air.

thnx for reading and standing by for the incoming.

:)
 

pcmeiners

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Thermal transfer products.... who makes the db1260 or 1290 is debatable as many companies have the exact same units, so one company is supplying to everyone, specs are from the Thermal Dynamics catalogue, also look at all the different cross reference, lookup those cross reference, the products are the same as are the specs. down to the tabulators. Do a google search on Hayden DB 1260 or 1290, Db 1260 and 1290 are old designations which most use as it is easy to remember.

Operating Pressure - 300 psi
Test Pressure - 300 psi
Operating Temperature - 350° F

"The take away for me is the pressure rating on pretty much all the Hayden Automotive coolers is about 150 psi. "
Yes the cheapy, aluminum tub automotive coolers are a lower psi.

This is the same product group, multiple manufactures are supplying under their own names

https://www.haydenindustrial.com/products/fin-cool
 
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Scewter

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pcmeiners, thnx for that information. That has proven to be very helpful.

I followed your recc and found a cross reference at Thermal Dynamics for the 1260 and 1290. I can't post a link yet, but they show the part numbers for Hayden Industrial as well as Thermal Transfer. Apparently all separate companies. Did not find a cross reference to Hayden Automotive, however reviewing the specs each provides they do indeed appear to all be the same product.

My mistake was assuming that they all manufactured their own products (rookie mistake...?). OK, learn and move on. The one thing I'm struggling with is why the Hayden Automotive engineer would tell me the 1260 and 1290 were only rated to 150 psi? The 1260 was/is the one I'm most interested in and had called him about. When he told me that I then asked if they had any heat exchangers that were rated for a higher psi and he went on to say they are all in the 150 psi range due to their product market. Hmmm....

Moving on.

The part number at Hayden Industrial as a cross reference for the 1260 is currently 10624-S1. The 1290 is 10924-S1. This is taken off the Thermal Dynamics web site.

Again, thnx for clearing that up (and still loving this forum).
 

pcmeiners

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"I'm struggling with is why the Hayden Automotive engineer would tell me the 1260 and 1290 were only rated to 150 psi"

This is not years ago when the support people at companies knew what they were talking about. Now if they do not know, instead of looking it up or asking it is much easier to BS.

By the way, if patient, some good buys on 1260s/1290s show up on Ebay. I have purchased a dozen 1290s, at about 1/2 normal Ebay price.
The 1260 is good for a compressor in the 5hp range. The 1290 in the 7-10hp. On my 5hp Curtis 2 stage, have a 1290, the fin area becomes ambient within half the fin area, mounted in front of the main pulley .
 

Archoplites

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I've been reviewing this thread and other aftercooler installs for some time now. I want to thank the folks who have provided this information (and the comments) about this aftercooler install. I have basically copied the design from Mr. X to fit a Hayden 1260 on a TSC 5hp 80g compressor. The design takes some basic skills to complete but it's been very helpful to see step-by-step pics that were provided. So far what I have recorded since by aftercooler install is about 12 degrees F greater than ambient measured at the tank inlet interface. In addition I have not seen (visibly) any moisture from my tank drain after the aftercooler install. Overall I feel the aftercoolers are a great way to clean the air and protect the tank prior to compressed air entering the tank. Additional post-tank filtration is recommended/required. I have attached a few pics of the job and yes, I know it's close to my walls which limit more efficient cooling (space limitations in my garage) and everything is sloped to the radiator than water trap before going to the tank (images may look different).
 

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MrSurly

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Very clean install!
That is very similar to what I did and I’ve found it to be very effective at cooling things down and knocking out water. Under heavy use I’ll expect you’ll see a lot more temp drop as well.


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rayra

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When someone posts about a build they are doing, or perhaps did, they are NOT asking for advice. They are simply posting their project for the members to look at. Folks that post critical replies are out of place. I don't understand these "experts". Posting a suggestion may be OK but to say this or that is bad or wrong or incorrect etc isn't necessary.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)

'necessary', you mean like all that work and expense when opening the drain valve at the end of use is all that is 'necessary'?
 

pcmeiners

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Sorry Hchrist, but if you post on this forum , whatever you post is open to discussion, this is not a photo album forum, it is a discussion forum, we learn from each other, especially from the ones who already made mistakes. Anyone offended has the inalienable right to create a website, post their projects on it, and lock it from discussions or replies, this way they will not be offended or LEARN anything to their benefit.
 

Menifee Valley Speed Shop

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Menifee CA
I'm using the 1290 Hayden. Still in progress so no results yetd0b71e977ba0dca565d7ea3d2d0554ab.jpg61540864e550cfbf15a2b9baa7a03ff4.jpg

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sweetk30

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finger lakes area upstate ,ny
so after reading a few of these threads i figured ask what the working psi / tested psi is from hyden coolers them self since its NOT listed in there sales info .

i got a email back today and they said to me " we test our units to 150psi and call that max working pressure . we can not say they will not work at higher pressures but thats not on us " .


so for all of us using these HD engine oil coolers just be warned if your air compressor goes over 150psi then you are over the max pressure they set for there units .
 

kaymccampbell

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I've got that cooler on my compressor. It knocks the temperatures down to near ambient. Put a water trap after it, even though it'll cost about as much as the cooler. Mine spits n dribbles constantly.
 

pcmeiners

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This must be the 10th time I posted this link; getting to wonder if some should take a remedial reading course around here. The people at Hayden quoting 150psi are referring to their cheap automotive coolers, NOT the industrial coolers.

https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma...8d1879ea4db6639656bbe1af129db4fc&libId=kb...


•Maximum operating pressure of 300 PSI
•Maximum operating temperature of 350°


You get what you pay for, with the Derale cooler, you get 1/2" tubing (more resistance and less chance of water dropout within the coil), no swirl tubes, fine for small low volume compressors not for larger compressors as in 5 or more horsepower.

Does anyone need the Hayden info repeated again?
 
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Archoplites

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And to add on to pcmeiners info on Hayden coolers - Hayden has a nice brochure to view their different cooling products:

ww.haydenauto.com/media/5475/oil-cooler-brochure_individual-pages.pdf

Hopefully this forum allows these links, if not just search Hayden oil cooler brochure.
 

larry4406

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dbr1976

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I'm installing an Emax 5hp 80 gallon unit in my garage along with their refrigeration dryer. I don't want to run the dryer all the time which is what will happen if I simply plug it in. I thought about tying the dryer to my light circuit or maybe a countdown switch or flow switch but I think I've decided on running its power from one of the compressor motor lines. Hopefully this isn't an insane idea. When compressor runs the dryer runs. I also decided I might as well keep the tanks dry to prolong their life. Why not come out of the compressor and dry the air first then put it in the tank?? Only problem is dryer is 140F max inlet. I decided I needed a cooler after compressor but before dryer which led me to this thread. I have 2 tanks. The 80 gallon that comes with Emax unit and then I found another 31 year old 80 gallon getting tossed. I took some quick thickness measurements and metal exceeded the nameplate thickness so I felt good. I dropped it off to get it blasted and painted. Then I brought it home and did a 300psi hydro test (200MAWP) for 30 minutes. It passed. I'll try to post my aftercooler setup on here. I wanted my entire system to be dry air so that even if I just use it for a few seconds that air would be dry. I couldn't come up with any other layout.
 

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imjustdave

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I'm installing an Emax 5hp 80 gallon unit in my garage along with their refrigeration dryer. I don't want to run the dryer all the time which is what will happen if I simply plug it in. I thought about tying the dryer to my light circuit or maybe a countdown switch or flow switch but I think I've decided on running its power from one of the compressor motor lines. Hopefully this isn't an insane idea. When compressor runs the dryer runs. I also decided I might as well keep the tanks dry to prolong their life. Why not come out of the compressor and dry the air first then put it in the tank?? Only problem is dryer is 140F max inlet. I decided I needed a cooler after compressor but before dryer which led me to this thread. I have 2 tanks. The 80 gallon that comes with Emax unit and then I found another 31 year old 80 gallon getting tossed. I took some quick thickness measurements and metal exceeded the nameplate thickness so I felt good. I dropped it off to get it blasted and painted. Then I brought it home and did a 300psi hydro test (200MAWP) for 30 minutes. It passed. I'll try to post my aftercooler setup on here. I wanted my entire system to be dry air so that even if I just use it for a few seconds that air would be dry. I couldn't come up with any other layout.

300 PSI of 80 gallons of water or
300 PSI of 80 gallons of air....
 

ROBZ71LM7

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300 PSI of 80 gallons of water or
300 PSI of 80 gallons of air....

Not sure if this is a question or statement. For purposes of doing a leak test the stress on the vessel is the same. The reason hydro's are the preferred method of testing over pneumatic is safety. Water is incompressible which makes the pressure test much safer-this is industry standard to avoid pneumatic tests. For boilers you test new construction at 1.5X MAWP but for unfired pressure vessels (this tank) its typically 1.2X MAWP if my memory serves me correctly. I think the test was a bit high, but along with thickness tests, assuming at typical troublesome areas, he did a great job vetting the tank for continued service.
 

dbr1976

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The test was performed with water hence the term "hydro". 1.2x would have been fine but I just wanted a little more safety factor and went all the way to 1.5x. I am putting the tank up high on a wall out of the way and don't look forward to doing this test again anytime soon. I have picked out my cooler. It is a Derale 15800 cooler with built in fan. I modeled the setup in a simulation software package I have and it performed great (ok....maybe this is a little overkill.......) but us nuclear engineers are a little OCD.
 

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BCreekDave

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Nicely done. Very professional. My only suggestion would be to add a water separator between the aftercooler and the refrigerated dryer to keep it as internally dry as possible.


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dbr1976

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I'd like to add a filter separator before the dryer just in case there is any oil, etc but every filter separator I look at has like just a few ounces of capacity. You'd think it would be easy to find one with maybe a 1/2 gallon or so but nope. I guess I could put a auto drain on it. Here is one of the larger ones I could find at 11 ounces.
 

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imjustdave

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Not sure if this is a question or statement. For purposes of doing a leak test the stress on the vessel is the same. The reason hydro's are the preferred method of testing over pneumatic is safety. Water is incompressible which makes the pressure test much safer-this is industry standard to avoid pneumatic tests. For boilers you test new construction at 1.5X MAWP but for unfired pressure vessels (this tank) its typically 1.2X MAWP if my memory serves me correctly. I think the test was a bit high, but along with thickness tests, assuming at typical troublesome areas, he did a great job vetting the tank for continued service.

Yes that was a Q. I'm familiar with using water as the destructive properties if it does fail are vastly different with air VS water, I was a little worried the test was done with air.
 

csp

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Franktown, CO
I'd like to add a filter separator before the dryer just in case there is any oil, etc but every filter separator I look at has like just a few ounces of capacity. You'd think it would be easy to find one with maybe a 1/2 gallon or so but nope.

How much oil do you think your compressor is adding to the air?
 

BCreekDave

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Dayton, OH
What I did for mine was to gut the automatic drain feature in the separator and put an adjustable needle valve on the drain. Adjust it to just barely open enough to drain on each compressor cycle.
Actually I arrived at this when the automatic drain gave up due to vibration.


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dbr1976

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I really don't think there is any oil. My first thought was to simply install a separator, but they all seem to be filter separators and most of them have regulators built in which I don't need or want. Makes me feel like I am the only guy out there doing this.......

I'd like to just send all the water to the dryer because it already has separator with level float and auto drain.
 
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imjustdave

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I'd like to add a filter separator before the dryer just in case there is any oil, etc but every filter separator I look at has like just a few ounces of capacity. You'd think it would be easy to find one with maybe a 1/2 gallon or so but nope. I guess I could put a auto drain on it. Here is one of the larger ones I could find at 11 ounces.

I have Coalescing filter a 8923M from coilhose on a York air conditioner turned into air compressor on a truck. The discharge line runs back to the compressor to fill it back up as Air Conditioners aren't' designed to keep oil inside. It collects a massive amount of oil. They have an auto drain version as well, note I think they use a generic photo for most items unfortunately, but they are responsive to emails.

Main use is to fill tires, air bags ETC.

this one seems to have an auto drain, they also make a handfull of options so take a look.
http://coilhose.com/index.php/8922-14566.html
 
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dbr1976

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Finished compressor install. Runs great. No water in tank!
 

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MrSurly

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Super clean install. What was the source of the stainless braided hose ? What is it made of?


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