JordonMusser
Well-known member
following!
New Age Flooring
- Thread starter kartracer23
- Start date
geneworldwide
Member
Dr.99 - How are you liking your NewAge floor now that you've had it for 5 months or so?
Any new suggestions or learnings? Thanks in advance.
We ordered some samples, as we're considering this flooring for part of our house including the kitchen (would be about 900 sq ft of tile). Interested to hear how it is wearing, if any interlocking seams have popped up, any gaps have opened, etc.
geneworldwide
Member
What do you mean by "to cut 45 degree leading edge"? or more specifically, what do you mean by "leading edge"?
geneworldwide
Member
Hi All - wondering if someone can tell me how to determine whether my garage floor is level enough for this flooring. I understand it needs to be clean, flat, etc. But does anyone have specifics on how much height variance this flooring can accept and how to measure that?
My garage floor is about 12 years old and in good shape. No obvious sloping, high spots or low spots to the naked eye.
Thanks in advance for any help.
My garage floor is about 12 years old and in good shape. No obvious sloping, high spots or low spots to the naked eye.
Thanks in advance for any help.
PileDriver
Well-known member
Got my sample in the mail today. I'm seriously considering this option.
Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
how did you go about solving the 1" difference between the outside and the garage opening?
If I recall correctly, the number I saw quoted for how flat the floor needs to be was 1/4" variance over 10'.
Justintime2
Well-known member
Anybody have an opinion on using some of this that is left over as a kitchen counter top? Peeling laminate now and was gonna just do more laminate but this stuff seems tough as nails and if not cutting directly on it would seem to be ok. Thoughts? Hot pot or pan set on it?
It is not advisable to set hot pans on almost all countertop materials. Soapstone would be one of the few that would not have any issues...laminate, solid surface, quartz, stone all advise to use hot pads or a trivet. I would think it would be no different with any type of vinyl tile.
Justintime2
Well-known member
Only has a five year limited warranty in a garage setting... that alone would say to me they know it's not going to last for the long haul...no thanks.. other products with a much better warranty and history in a garage use. Good Luck !
Justintime2
Well-known member
The mezzanine is an interior residential space which would be ten years by their measurement but either way Costco says you're wrong...
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GRivera
Well-known member
Thanks looks awesome!
Warranties are worthless
Hi all, sorry I missed your PMs, I never got alerted and have been out enjoying my garage. I haven’t signed on GJ in a while.
I am still very happy with the tiles. I’ve swept it out a couple times with no issues. We’ve only had a light snow here so far, but no issue slipping. They do get slippery if you spill car cleaning products on them, but it wipes right up. I have one tile connection separating, and at some point I’ll probably use light cray caulk to make it blend in. Salt definitely gravitates to the seams.
As a refresher, I used a cheap tile saw for cuts. The tiles go together differently that I experienced before. They need to go 45 degrees and in the channel. Then lay down and hammer on the channel. Vinyl I did previously needed the tap tools to go horizontal and I struggled initially.
Let me know if anyone has questions or wants some other photos.
I am still very happy with the tiles. I’ve swept it out a couple times with no issues. We’ve only had a light snow here so far, but no issue slipping. They do get slippery if you spill car cleaning products on them, but it wipes right up. I have one tile connection separating, and at some point I’ll probably use light cray caulk to make it blend in. Salt definitely gravitates to the seams.
As a refresher, I used a cheap tile saw for cuts. The tiles go together differently that I experienced before. They need to go 45 degrees and in the channel. Then lay down and hammer on the channel. Vinyl I did previously needed the tap tools to go horizontal and I struggled initially.
Let me know if anyone has questions or wants some other photos.
kettlecorn
Member
Ordered the 400 sq ft LVT bundle direct from Newage and it arrived last week. Spent the entire week clearing out the garage and cleaning and finally starting to lay it down. First time working with click and lock flooring.
Is the click and lock supposed to make some sort of audible noise so you know it's locked in? When I set 1 tile onto the previous, it just sits there and I just tap it lightly with a mallet and a block. But If I lift the tile it will unlock right away and quite easily.
I just started so I'm less than 1 row in but thought I'd make sure before continuing.
Also one of the boxes were used or damage. It was open with the cardboard ripped out of the 30 boxes or so, and every single tile had broken click lock tabs and there was something that looked like sand or dirt in them. Definitely not happy about that.
EDIT: Just did some more reading it looks like it's not supposed to "click" since the next coming row is what locks the previous row.
Is the click and lock supposed to make some sort of audible noise so you know it's locked in? When I set 1 tile onto the previous, it just sits there and I just tap it lightly with a mallet and a block. But If I lift the tile it will unlock right away and quite easily.
I just started so I'm less than 1 row in but thought I'd make sure before continuing.
Also one of the boxes were used or damage. It was open with the cardboard ripped out of the 30 boxes or so, and every single tile had broken click lock tabs and there was something that looked like sand or dirt in them. Definitely not happy about that.
EDIT: Just did some more reading it looks like it's not supposed to "click" since the next coming row is what locks the previous row.
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aventino68
Well-known member
Curious to know if a tracked skid steer in the garage would tear these up.
Justintime2
Well-known member
The tiles don’t click and they need to be hammered down in to lock the sides, it’s not a drop and lock deal. When it’s tipped in and slid over to line the side up before tilting it down to lock in, there is a little bit of room to line it up and sort of nuance it in in the sides where it locks together. Then with it lined up properly using a block of the material (soft side down) hammer it home ensuring it is sitting flush with the adjacent tile. It can appear locked but if you look close it might be able to be tapped down more so it’s even across the side and will then be fully seated. Actually a bit more of a pain in the *** then I thought it would be and broke multiple of them at the sides trying to hammer it down. Used most as a cut for the opposite end though so not wasted.
Justintime2
Well-known member
Tough good looking floor but no way in hell would it handle that, would destroy it. Instructions even say no studded snow tires on it...
aventino68
Well-known member
Well, then I'll go epoxy instead. Good to know.
zeen
Member
This is a key point for some situations. A garage that has had years of greasy work on an unsealed floor would take a lot of grinding to prep right. Covering with tile seems like a good option.
kettlecorn
Member
Thanks I got started and got 3 rows in so far. Now it's making sense.
I'm unable to post pictures on here for some reason even though my links are working but... the edges of my garage have uneven concrete so I'm unable to sit the tiles flush with the walls with a 3/8" recommended gap. (Both uneven horizontally and vertically about 1/2" from the wall)
Instead I had to float everything out about .75-1" off the wall to make sure that the floors clear the most uneven areas of that edge + 3/8" clearance for movement. Short of getting a jack hammer and a concrete grinder, this is the best solution I have to making it work on the edge.
So I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations for what to do to cover the edges up so far away from the wall. Since it's about 1" off, regular base board won't cut it.
I could CAP the gap with something and then add baseboard or maybe some vinyl floor baseboard maybe..
Thoughts?
EDIT: Can you caulk between the tile and baseboards? If it's a floating floor won't the movement destroy the caulk? If you can caulk, I was thinking thicker baseboard 11/16" and caulk or silicone would take care of that .75-1" gap
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kettlecorn
Member
Hey, how did you deal with the wall meeting the tile? Mine is uneven like yours but worse cause I didn't grind down the concrete. I just chiseled some bumps. So It's actually floating bout an 1" off the wall. I also have that weird curb/lip on the back so I didn't tile that part either.
Shea
Well-known member
You don't want to use caulk. Caulk shrinks over time and will begin to pull away from the wall or tile, especially with a gap like that. More importantly though, you will run into issues when the flooring wants to expand. The caulk will not allow for it. You essentially filled the space that the tile would need to fill.
You can purchase a 4" angle grinder from Harbor Freight for less than $20 and get a 4" concrete turbo cup wheel from Amazon for around $10. This combo will eat up a lot of concrete bumps. Just be prepared for the massive concrete dust and be sure to wear a respirator.
FYI, you need 5 posts before you can post pics
kettlecorn
Member
You don't want to use caulk. Caulk shrinks over time and will begin to pull away from the wall or tile, especially with a gap like that. More importantly though, you will run into issues when the flooring wants to expand. The caulk will not allow for it. You essentially filled the space that the tile would need to fill.
You can purchase a 4" angle grinder from Harbor Freight for less than $20 and get a 4" concrete turbo cup wheel from Amazon for around $10. This combo will eat up a lot of concrete bumps. Just be prepared for the massive concrete dust and be sure to wear a respirator.
FYI, you need 5 posts before you can post pics
Good point on the caulk. I measured again and did some reading and it looks like 1" PVC or 11/16" thick baseboard will cover it. If it doesn't, I can always add quarter round but it should be no problem covering it.
I have a 1" lip right before the door closes to keep water out so I'm trying to figure out how to install this threshold.
I might follow Dr 99 and install it right before the door and call it a day. I don't want to mess with laying additional concrete.
If anyone has any ideas or solutions on how to deal with the 1" lip, would love to hear it.
I have a similar issue with a ~1in lip inside the garage door. Great idea on building a ramp up. Are you happy with it and suggest others build a ramp?
All - Really appreciate this thread and everyone's input! I wanted to install this in my garage but a little nervous before reading others experiences and suggestions.
Any one else have suggestions on how to handle the lip at the garage door and/or a 3in step up that runs across the rear of the garage? I am thinking about either painting the 3in step up or cutting 3in strips of the tile, gluing to the step up, and finish with some sort of mortal/caulk.
Thanks in advance for any input!
allinon72
Well-known member
Swisstrax makes a product for this:
https://www.obsessedgarage.com/collections/garage-flooring/products/swisstrax-treadware
I haven't gotten around to installing the floor yet
Life got in the way, but that is my plan at this point - knock of the edge and add some mortar unless I see something better come along
Anyone interested in this flooring, looks like Costco has their $400 off sale again on both packages
Valid 1/25/21 through 2/22/21. While supplies last.
https://www.costco.com/newage-produ...,-tile-%26-accessories.product.100646359.html
Valid 1/25/21 through 2/22/21. While supplies last.
https://www.costco.com/newage-produ...,-tile-%26-accessories.product.100646359.html
So I love the look of the NewAge flooring and I'm now trying to decide between Slate and Titanium. I am thinking that Slate might be better at hiding tire marks and general dirtiness than Titanium but Titanium would be better for hiding salt deposits. Either way, I'm prepared to keep the floor clean and both look great.
kettlecorn
Member
I'm almost done installing these tiles. I have 2 more rows and then a 1/2 row that needs full rip cuts to trim the length. After that it's installing the weather stripping and some base moulding on the sides.
I got the hang of it and started to realize you need to get everything super tight so it lines up perfectly straight.
My floors particularly the sides of the garage wall are not super level but these tiles are pretty heavy duty. I haven't driven on it yet but I have been rolling my tool cart, band saw and motorcycle over it as I keep repositioning things.
Will post final pics when its done sometime next week. Waiting on a miter saw delivery
I got the hang of it and started to realize you need to get everything super tight so it lines up perfectly straight.
My floors particularly the sides of the garage wall are not super level but these tiles are pretty heavy duty. I haven't driven on it yet but I have been rolling my tool cart, band saw and motorcycle over it as I keep repositioning things.
Will post final pics when its done sometime next week. Waiting on a miter saw delivery
kettlecorn
Member
How is that 45 degree leading edge cut working out for you? Issues with driving or rolling things up into your garage?
I went the other way from the interior wall out to the garage so the tile would end up near the door. I also have a raised lip but plan on using the threshold before the door so there's a smooth transition for the car and any other wheels or things that need to come into the garage without damaging the tile. Wondering if I should just cut the tail end with 45 and liquid nail it down..
I'm curious how the beveled leading edge is working out as well. Did you end up using adhesive on the first row?
I have 600sq ft of tile stacked in my garage waiting for me to install and I'm still wrestling with the question of how to handle the leading edge.
I have a lip at each of the doors as well which makes the rubber threshold impractical. I also like the idea of being able to sweep/mop/squeegee right out the door without the dirt and water getting stuck on the lip the threshold creates.
kettlecorn
Member
I've looked at this many ways and honestly I'm going with putting the threshold a few inches back of the door. So it still acts as a ramp and doesnt damage the tile and also acts as a final layer that has adhesive to the floor so it doesn't lift.
The lip is there because it's necessary. It prevents water back up and such. So building up concrete to make it flush is not an option I want to take. And if I did that, the door would sit 2" higher which means it would be completely offset to the wall and the window would be 2" higher.
Short of making a custom threshold that drops 2" down, I think putting it on the same level as the tile short of the door is fine. A member did that I think on page 4 or so.
Here is mine nearly finished. I just need to glue the threshold down and then find some vinyl cove moulding for the sides.
I'm happy with the way it turned out.