New Age Flooring

[Git]

Here is mine nearly finished. I just need to glue the threshold down and then find some vinyl cove moulding for the sides.

This site doesn't like imgur links, it is pretty easy to just attach the pic once you get the hang of it. Looks great by the way

 

[kettlecorn]

This site doesn't like imgur links, it is pretty easy to just attach the pic once you get the hang of it. Looks great by the way

Oh I hadn't realized you can just attach the photo. Ha
Took me a few weeks but the home stretch.

 

[TTMotorsports]

I made my own threshold before. like this one below out of 1/16" thick aluminum. Had it sheared OR buy a roll of it and drill holes to anchor it down every 3ft or so. Worked great and wish i took photos but I didn't

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...reshold-for-Interior-Doorways-SN175/100658200

 

[Voyager_mike]

Just ordered some samples from Costco. I'm still having a hard time deciding what route to go with flooring. Ive ordered samples from swisstrax and waiting on racedeck as well. How's everyone liking these so far? Any issues with them coming undone when turning your tires on them?

 

[tjlahr]

I just finished my install (620 sq ft). Am liking the tile very much so far. They're easy to install as they are manufactured to a very precise tolerance and I had only eight tiles with defects that rendered them not usable. Tires turn very easily on them and wont cause them to twist. I looked at Swisstrax and RD but decided these look much better and I didn't want water or debris sitting under the tiles.

A couple points though: they will scratch if you drag something heavy across them and I have experienced some buckling on the first row when the sun was beating down on them. This could be due to my decision to glue a few down and the expansion joint was a little smaller than the recommended 3/8".

 

[Utilifix]

Not gonna lie, I think it actually looks pretty good, so long as it's as durable as it claims. Jferrante's looks great.

 

[aiyer]

tjlahr, floor looks nice. and nice 997 as well. Targa?

I have a 4-post lift that I do move sometimes from one bay to the other. I wonder how the tiles will withstand that. The lift has wheels that help move it.

 

[tjlahr]

Thanks. The Porsche is a Speedster (991.2). I've read that a lift won't be an issue for the tiles. That's my plan in the next year or two.

 

[Mge2093]

For the tiles to have 'waterproof integrity', important to have flat floors before starting the install, others, you'll likely have corners pop up from high / low spots

 

[aiyer]

I am still on the fence between tiles or epoxy. If I do go the tile route, i plan to use the self leveling concrete to level the floor before I install the tiles.

 

[CombatNinja]

tjlahr, floor looks nice. and nice 997 as well. Targa?

Seriously, you can't tell the difference between a 997 Targa and a 991 Speedster?

Shame on you.

 

[StevieT]

Two pallets of this flooring as well as a 14 piece garage cabinet system and an outdoor kitchen showed up a few weeks ago. NewAge recommends filling in the expansion joints yet would not say with what except for "google it". Likely tip toying that warranty.

I filled them in today with backer rod and Rapid Set self leveling sealant. Went through 3-1/2 28oz tubes. The floor is only 4 years old and each slab is very level. Yet each slab has moved slightly from the adjacent so the next step is self-leveling underlayment over the expansion joints especially the quads.

NewAge has a cool rendering feature on their website to visualize the floor before hand and guide on what direction to lay the tiles.

[render] WILL POST A FINAL PICTURE WHEN DONE

I would have loved the slate color, living in Wisconsin we felt the Titanium will hide the winter salt and **** from the vehicles better.

 

[aiyer]

Seriously, you can't tell the difference between a 997 Targa and a 991 Speedster?

Shame on you.

LOL. Yes. I am sorry. I saw the speedster hump and I also meant to type 991.
It is one of those brain fart moments.

I will go stand in a corner and give myself a timeout.


StevieT: Floor looks really nice!!

 

[2Fast]

Floor looks great!

Newb question - could you fill the expansion joints with something like mortar? (It seems like that would be fairly cheap and easy to do)

 

[Shea]

Floor looks great!

Newb question - could you fill the expansion joints with something like mortar? (It seems like that would be fairly cheap and easy to do)

I'm assuming you are referring to contraction joints and not expansion joints. Don't use mortar on contraction joints or most any project that requires small patching or filling. It does not adhere well and eventually cracks and breaks out. Use a polymer-modified cement product instead.

Since you are not apply a coating, but instead laying tile over the joint, use a self-leveling compound found at your local home improvement center. It will still crack over the joint, but it will not break loose.

 

[2Fast]

I'm assuming you are referring to contraction joints and not expansion joints. Don't use mortar on contraction joints or most any project that requires small patching or filling. It does not adhere well and eventually cracks and breaks out. Use a polymer-modified cement product instead.

Since you are not apply a coating, but instead laying tile over the joint, use a self-leveling compound found at your local home improvement center. It will still crack over the joint, but it will not break loose.

Thanks for the response

I am talking about these kind of joints that StevieT posted about.

I believe my garage slab has cables in it (it's marked do not cut or core) and it has been in place for over 20 years and I don't think it is going anywhere. I googled 'polymer-modified cement product' and I see Home Depot sells "Quickcrete 20 lb. Polymer Modified Structural Concrete Repair' for $21. Would that work?

-Used for sealing cracks in masonry and concrete up to 1 in. wide
-Offers strength of 2,500 PSI in 3 hours and 7,500 PSI in 28 days
-Ensures a fast setting time between 20-40 minutes

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikret...d-Structural-Concrete-Repair-124125/207102852

 

[Shea]

Yes, for your project that will work fine. It would not be recommended if you were applying a coating, but will work well for a full floating tile floor like what you are installing.

 

[2Fast]

Yes, for your project that will work fine. It would not be recommended if you were applying a coating, but will work well for a full floating tile floor like what you are installing.

Thanks for your help

 

[StevieT]

Thanks for the response

I am talking about these kind of joints that StevieT posted about.

This is what I used for the joints Home Depot SKU: 1002455659
(can not post links with my low post count)

I will then be placing polymer-modified self level cement over that this coming weekend. I figured this way the joints still can flex some without cracking the cement. Granted it is all hidden under the tile.

I used backer rod but would recommend silica sand to fill in deep joints 1/2-3/4 of the way before applying the joint sealant.

 

[StevieT]

Thank you for your website Shea and the section on NewAge flooring.

For going off samples and past experience I found it very well written and helpful. I had my eye on this product last year after shopping for their cabinets. Your write up and pointing to this thread filled in the blanks that NewAge refused.

 

[Shea]

Thank you for your website Shea and the section on NewAge flooring.

For going off samples and past experience I found it very well written and helpful. I had my eye on this product last year after shopping for their cabinets. Your write up and pointing to this thread filled in the blanks that NewAge refused.

I'm glad it helped!

 

[Bigsky2021]

Stick with racedeck

 

[Ndgraz]

I am extremely grateful for this forum and am excited to install the tile in my 3 car garage. I currently have a concrete floor. I have a couple of questions:

- I know there has been some discussion, but do you really need to fill in the contraction joints if the tiles are going to span the joints (I have a "grid" of 6 sections)? Did any install the tile over the contraction joints?

- I used a laser level to determine that my garage is level left to right, but slopes (correctly for grade) from back to front. A pitch -- as long as it is flat -- is okay, correct?

- For those of us without a tool shop, is a compound miter saw the only or best way to make cuts? Did anyone use something else?

- Any other tools other than those listed that you think would be helpful that you wish you had known about before you started installation?

Thank you!

 

[tjlahr]

I am extremely grateful for this forum and am excited to install the tile in my 3 car garage. I currently have a concrete floor. I have a couple of questions:

- I know there has been some discussion, but do you really need to fill in the contraction joints if the tiles are going to span the joints (I have a "grid" of 6 sections)? Did any install the tile over the contraction joints?

- I used a laser level to determine that my garage is level left to right, but slopes (correctly for grade) from back to front. A pitch -- as long as it is flat -- is okay, correct?

- For those of us without a tool shop, is a compound miter saw the only or best way to make cuts? Did anyone use something else?

- Any other tools other than those listed that you think would be helpful that you wish you had known about before you started installation?

Thank you!

I did not have joints in my garage floor so I can't answer that.
Pitch is expected - you just need 'flat'
I used a compound miter saw with a 100 tooth blade. Cuts easily. Highly recommend a sliding type saw to get through the whole tile.
A rubber mallet and a miter saw are pretty much it.

 

[StevieT]

Before and After

The floor is fairly easy to install, by far the best locking floor system I have ever worked with. The sub floor needs to be level, make sure to level as best as possible first to keep the joints sealed from water. Make sure every tile is tight while pounding with the mallet to insure a good seal. You can see small gaps, check ever tile after pounding. Use a bar for laminate/vinyl flooring as needed. Pitch does not matter, level does.

It took 14 hours to lay about 700 sqft. This does not include prep time. I have 1 box of tiles left (7 tiles), factoring 10% over your footage was a perfect calculation for me.

Watch your mallet on the corners, it can crack the top coating. Hold the tile tight and wack it on the middle of the joint, the tile will do most of the work locking in. I thought of this late but there may be an effective way to shim or level the floor if you find yourself in areas that are not flat.

Tooth count didn't seem to matter much all cuts were very clean. Miter saw 84 tooth triple chip yet table 24 tooth stock blade and they looked identical.

Tools Used:

• Compound miter saw
• Table Saw
• Jig Saw
• Shop Vac, brooms
• Knee pads
• Mallet
• Locking floor bar
• Pre cut 3/8" spacers
• Chalk line
• Levels
• Marker
• Tape measure
• Caulk gun
• Utility knife
• Silicone
• Shims
• Expansion joint filler
• Self leveling compound
• Jack Daniels

Next up: Paint ceiling black, slatwall, cabinets, vertical racks lighting, finish work

 

[Shea]

Great job!

 

[HUSTLESTUFF]

I started on my Showroom floor. Bought 2 600 sq ft packages from Costco. Took 8 hrs for about 65 boxes so far. going to be 2 boxes short but they show out of stock to order them. Found it much easier than the LVP's in the house I did. Once the first two rows were done went real quick, but my knees were killing me after 8 hrs on them. Ordered some new knee pads to finish.

 

[roguegts]

Thanks. The Porsche is a Speedster (991.2). I've read that a lift won't be an issue for the tiles. That's my plan in the next year or two.

Way to just drop that being all casual lol. I don’t think anyone here realizes just how special that car is.

For those not up on modern porsches, it’s a GT3 with an open top and super limited production. Very difficult car to get an allocation for (compared to regular GT cars, which are super hard to get anyway). Buddy of mine has a silver with the heritage graphics, such an awesome car.

Congrats on the speedster! What else is hiding in the garage? Carrera GT?

 

[lxbru]

I know this is an old thread but I am also curious about the t or X grooves in cement floors that divide the garage into sections that StevieT and 2Fast were discussing. Has anyone installed this and just left them as is and installed over it, ideally having the tile centered across as to have most of the weight on the sides? Or even something like a small pool noodle foam piece to help hold some of the weight?

The reason I was looking into this method was because I don't want to do all the prep and that would include adding additional self-leveling cement to let the floor lay flat.

 

[Shea]

I know this is an old thread but I am also curious about the t or X grooves in cement floors that divide the garage into sections that StevieT and 2Fast were discussing. Has anyone installed this and just left them as is and installed over it, ideally having the tile centered across as to have most of the weight on the sides? Or even something like a small pool noodle foam piece to help hold some of the weight?

The reason I was looking into this method was because I don't want to do all the prep and that would include adding additional self-leveling cement to let the floor lay flat.

The big issue you need to check is how level the floor is across the joints. If they are saw cut, then you should be OK. However, if they are the wider "V" troweled joints, the edges have a tendency to curl slightly upwards as the concrete cures and shrinks slightly at the surface after it was placed. Use a straight edge to check. If they curl up you will need to grind them flush or you will have problems with the tiles not laying flat. This leads to problems with snapping them in place with each other.

Foam is not going to provide any stability in terms of weight.

 

[lxbru]

The big issue you need to check is how level the floor is across the joints. If they are saw cut, then you should be OK. However, if they are the wider "V" troweled joints, the edges have a tendency to curl slightly upwards as the concrete cures and shrinks slightly at the surface after it was placed. Use a straight edge to check. If they curl up you will need to grind them flush or you will have problems with the tiles not laying flat. This leads to problems with snapping them in place with each other.

Foam is not going to provide any stability in terms of weight.

Okay interesting thanks for the response. So basically the missing space of the grooves themselves won't be an issue with weight rather it's how level they are to the other side?

 

[Shea]

Okay interesting thanks for the response. So basically the missing space of the grooves themselves won't be an issue with weight rather it's how level they are to the other side?

Tile loses much of its compressive strength when asked to bridge a gap. Any high point load over a large enough gap is going to crack the tile. If it was my floor I would fill "V" shaped joints with a self-leveling underlayment. It is inexpensive and readily available from your local home improvement store.

 

[lxbru]

Tile loses much of its compressive strength when asked to bridge a gap. Any high point load over a large enough gap is going to crack the tile. If it was my floor I would fill "V" shaped joints with a self-leveling underlayment. It is inexpensive and readily available from your local home improvement store.

I'm guessing that the current "blocks" of separated concrete are there for a reason though right? Wouldn't filling those in potentially be bad for the whole concrete garage area?

 

[Shea]

I'm guessing that the current "blocks" of separated concrete are there for a reason though right? Wouldn't filling those in potentially be bad for the whole concrete garage area?

No. Those joints do not separate the slab into separate sections. It's all one large slab. The joints are approximately one inch deep and create a weakened line in the concrete to encourage cracking along the bottom of the joint instead of across the surface of the slab. Filling the joint has no effect on the slab itself. There is a good chance that the filler will crack in line with the joint over time, but it doesn't matter. The sole job of the filler is to support any spread of weight on the tile. It's not for cosmetics. If applying a coating, the underlayment as a filler would be the wrong choice.

 

[lxbru]

No. Those joints do not separate the slab into separate sections. It's all one large slab. The joints are approximately one inch deep and create a weakened line in the concrete to encourage cracking along the bottom of the joint instead of across the surface of the slab. Filling the joint has no effect on the slab itself. There is a good chance that the filler will crack in line with the joint over time, but it doesn't matter. The sole job of the filler is to support any spread of weight on the tile. It's not for cosmetics. If applying a coating, the underlayment as a filler would be the wrong choice.

That would be my main concern with filling it. Thanks for the info! I'll probably fill it in then once I get around to this project.

Edit: just found your article on this over on allgaragefloors as well. That helps explain it.

 

[skrider]

Any longer term updates from those members that have had this product installed a year or more?

 

[HUSTLESTUFF]

The floor is doing great. It's not really in a garage but do have two cars on it. Easy to clean and may get a robot vacuum or mop for the room.

 

[jobrizok]

Hey everyone, I know this is a old thread but just wanted to give my opinion on the floor. I installed a 1000 sq ft kit of the slate floor i bought directly from new age back in november in my garage. So i have had it a few months now and gone through a winter in new york. I have mixed feelings on the floor. If i could do it over again im not sure if i would still buy it. My two biggest issues with the floor is 1 you can not individually change any tile like to can with almost any tile floor out there. That is a deal breaker for most people. I did not know that before i bought the floor. My own fault, New Age says you can but you have to cut the old tile and and glue the new one in which would look terrible because it would mess up the fake looking grout lines. Second issue is it scratches very easily. Way easier than it should for a garage floor. I do not do any work in my garage but use it for storage for my vehicles. I have 2, 4 post lifts in there that i put right ontop on the tile which is fine. But for example if you have a plastic garage size garbage pale on the floor empty and there is pebble under it and you slide the garbage can it will scratch the floor and the scratched are very noticeable which is annoying. The floor looks great when clean, but also all the dirt goes into the seems which are not the easiest to clean and noticeable when dirty because the it has the fake grout lines which look awesome when clean but not the best when dirty. I just wish there was a easy way to clean it. New age says use a mop with soapy water, but my garage is almost 1000 sq ft and not the easiest to mop. I tried a wet/dry vacuum made for tile but it scratches the floor. My own fault because they say not to use any motorized cleaners but wanted to try something quicker.
Hope this helps anyone looking to buy these flooring tiles. Its a great idea and a nice system, just needs some improvement in my opinion. If its going in a showroom that wont be used as a actual garage its perfect but in the real world of a everyday garage with dirt and salt, not the best.

 

[PileDriver]

Hey everyone, I know this is a old thread but just wanted to give my opinion on the floor. I installed a 1000 sq ft kit of the slate floor i bought directly from new age back in november in my garage. So i have had it a few months now and gone through a winter in new york. I have mixed feelings on the floor. If i could do it over again im not sure if i would still buy it. My two biggest issues with the floor is 1 you can not individually change any tile like to can with almost any tile floor out there. That is a deal breaker for most people. I did not know that before i bought the floor. My own fault, New Age says you can but you have to cut the old tile and and glue the new one in which would look terrible because it would mess up the fake looking grout lines. Second issue is it scratches very easily. Way easier than it should for a garage floor. I do not do any work in my garage but use it for storage for my vehicles. I have 2, 4 post lifts in there that i put right ontop on the tile which is fine. But for example if you have a plastic garage size garbage pale on the floor empty and there is pebble under it and you slide the garbage can it will scratch the floor and the scratched are very noticeable which is annoying. The floor looks great when clean, but also all the dirt goes into the seems which are not the easiest to clean and noticeable when dirty because the it has the fake grout lines which look awesome when clean but not the best when dirty. I just wish there was a easy way to clean it. New age says use a mop with soapy water, but my garage is almost 1000 sq ft and not the easiest to mop. I tried a wet/dry vacuum made for tile but it scratches the floor. My own fault because they say not to use any motorized cleaners but wanted to try something quicker.
Hope this helps anyone looking to buy these flooring tiles. Its a great idea and a nice system, just needs some improvement in my opinion. If its going in a showroom that wont be used as a actual garage its perfect but in the real world of a everyday garage with dirt and salt, not the best.

any photos showing the overall look of the space with the tile and maybe some examples of how bad it scratches?

 

[snaware]

Not the best photo, but right after I finished the install.

How does the floor hold up now- does it scratch easily, any cracks with car parking - TIA