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nine4's projects, restorations and blunders

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nine4gmc

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-Nines, do you have a picture of that 3m glue you could post so I know what I'm looking for??????????

Here you go Dan, they have it at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot etc and the gasket glue you mentioned may be the same stuff but in a tube. I buy this by the gallon/5 gallon cans but they sell quarts etc too, you won't need much for this car.
070798002715lg.jpg
 

GirchyGirchy

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Here you go Dan, they have it at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot etc and the gasket glue you mentioned may be the same stuff but in a tube. I buy this by the gallon/5 gallon cans but they sell quarts etc too, you won't need much for this car.
070798002715lg.jpg

I think that's what I used when I attached the automotive carpet to my car's subwoofer box, ten years ago. Spread it on both sides, let dry, and then carefully (don't get it crooked!!!) align and press 'em together. Stuff sticks like crazy.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
Here you go Dan, they have it at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot etc and the gasket glue you mentioned may be the same stuff but in a tube. I buy this by the gallon/5 gallon cans but they sell quarts etc too, you won't need much for this car.
070798002715lg.jpg

I've been using that for counter tops and was wondering how it would work on canvas and other material now I know. Thanks
 
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nine4gmc

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Yes, just let it dry completely to the touch before you try to stick them together. You would think that if the pieces feel dry that they will no longer stick but trust me, they will. If you put the pieces together while they are tacky feeling, you can not move them if you need to reposition them, they will be stuck. Wait for both pieces to feel completely dry, no tacky feeling at all, then position them where they need to be. Once you are absolutely sure they are where they need to be, press them together and rub them to bond.

The glue will be just as strong whether you wait for the pieces to dry or put them together while tacky, but totally dry allows for repositioning where as tacky will be stuck the second the come in contact with each other and you will ruin them trying to reposition. It took me years to figure that out as a kid, I was building speaker boxes for friends before I was old enough to drive. I can not tell you how many rolls of carpet got messed up or had to seam a spot due to not waiting.
 

shelteredV

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Ha! I learned this way back when Formica was popular. I would do a lot of site built counters and cover with mica. I wasted a fair amount of material learning how to work the glue!
 

Outlawmws

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Yep, another user of contact cement. You can even get a small "Glue" bottle with a brush if you only need a bit for something small. While it keeps fairly well you don't want to get a "lifetime supply" No more than I will use in a year or two max is what I shoot for.
 

OccupantRJ

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Ha! I learned this way back when Formica was popular. I would do a lot of site built counters and cover with mica. I wasted a fair amount of material learning how to work the glue!

The trick on gluing flat sheet materials to a substrate is to paint both surfaces with contact cement and let dry. Use slats similar to yardsticks laid across the substrate a few inches apart. Center up loose sheet, then starting at one end, remove a slat and press the two surfaces together. Repeat the process to the other end. Roll out with J roller or rolling pin. Trim excess after glue up. The slats won't stick to dry glue.

On soft goods, place soft goods in position on substrate. Fold soft goods back half way while in position to apply glue to one half of substrate. Apply glue to exposed half of soft goods. Starting in center, put hand inside fold of soft goods and start to roll the loose part into place. Once this is done, fold other half back and repeat gluing process. Trim edges.
 

jakemac

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Seal the lid good and store the can upside down and it will last longer before starting to harden. (Actually, the hard bit ends up on the bottom when you turn it to open the can instead of blocking the top)
 
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nine4gmc

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I've used an old Binks spray gun with a quart size bottom feed cup for the past 20 something years and only cleaned it out 3 or 4 times in all those years. I just add glue when it gets empty, clean the vent hole before each use and it is ready to rock whenever i need it.

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Outlawmws

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Interesting Nine. I have a smaller "touch up" gun and that might be something to consider... Hmm I can go months between needing it sometimes, so maybe not...

Do you thin it for spraying?
 
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nine4gmc

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I don't but the gun i use may have a larger tip than the touch up gun you have. It was given to me by my ex wife's grandmother when she was cleaning out her husband's shop and looked to be his primer gun from the 60s-70s. Try a half cup in the touch up gun and see if it works, if not you can thin the rest and try again until you get a consistency that works, write down the ratio and premix some for future use.
The actual upholstery glue(DAP Landau Top and Trim Adhesive) that I use sometimes is definitely thinner and sprays noticeably better on cold days so its something to consider.
Months between use is no problem, I've done it several times when moving etc. The vent hole seals up so don't clean it after each use, clean it before the next use and the glue will stay.

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dlcwent

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Thanks for all the info on the glue. Another GJ "turn here for advice" moment. I did buy one of those small bottles Outlaw. I only need to put 4 small pieces on and I didn't want a lifetimes supply. Again, thanks to all of you guys.
 

rmack898

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Nines,
In bed with the flu for the last few days and read your thread from start to finish. Lots of cool stuff and nice work.
Too bad you couldn't duplicate the green hammerite blunder, that would be money in the bank.
 
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nine4gmc

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Hey, thanks for reading rmack898! I too have had flu symptoms for the past week that's been kicking my ***. I hate summer colds! I agree on the green hammertite blunder, wish I could do it on purpose cause it turned out pretty cool. I'll admit though I was pissed when I was spraying it and it started breaking up as I was finishing. Even when it dried I was unsure about it but after some GJ inspiration, it started growing on me.
Thanks again for dropping in and taking the time to read my lil thread, I appreciate it!

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nine4gmc

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Got something cooking here, what can it be?
img_2470.jpg


Few hours later.
img_2471.jpg


I used old fencing wire folded 3x along each of the two sides and turns out it works really well, I was scared there would not be enough surface area on the wire.
 
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nine4gmc

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Can you guys see the pics? Something is up with my computer and it's not showing my pics but I can see everyone else's in other threads.
 

MercLSU

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I won't spoil the surprise and say what it is, but it only took me a moment to realize that it was the WORST tasting meatloaf that I've ever had.
 
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nine4gmc

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Been dealing with tech support from my internet provider, hope they are reading this because THEY **** in the worst ways.

Here are pics from today, it's been about 24 hrs at the time of these pics.
img_2472.jpg


img_2473.jpg
 

Outlawmws

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nine4gmc

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Hey guys, the "power supply" is an old gold plating rectifier from the 90's when I did gold plating. It's a 30a max iirc with variable voltage/amperage controls. When I use it for electrolysis, I set it to amp mode and let it rip, you can see the voltage in this setup is hoovering around 19v and the amps started off just below 1a and has risen to 1.69 for now. This thing kicks rust ***!

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dlcwent

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I think you've got everyone's interest. How long are you going to cook it? Or should I say, how long before it's done?:headscrat
 
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