Nutts Enclosed Trailer project
- Thread starter NUTTSGT
- Start date
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Four of them will be for the car and two more for the four wheeler or a future golf cart. They should be plenty, if not, I can always add more.
Four of them will be for the car and two more for the four wheeler or a future golf cart. They should be plenty, if not, I can always add more.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
The 5200 lb axles should be plenty for me. The Mustang is light and I won't be going cross country on long hauls. Mostly 2 hrs and closer.
The 5200 lb axles should be plenty for me. The Mustang is light and I won't be going cross country on long hauls. Mostly 2 hrs and closer.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
The 30 amp box in the trailer has one tandem breaker in it.
Since I'm adding a outlet strip for some outlets near the front of the trailer, I needed somewhere to hook them into. I pulled out a 15 amp breaker and replaced it with another 15 amp tandem.
While you might notice an unused 20 amp breaker on the right, that is reserved for the future roof mounted AC unit. That wire is already tucked in the box and capped off.
The 30 amp box in the trailer has one tandem breaker in it.
Since I'm adding a outlet strip for some outlets near the front of the trailer, I needed somewhere to hook them into. I pulled out a 15 amp breaker and replaced it with another 15 amp tandem.
While you might notice an unused 20 amp breaker on the right, that is reserved for the future roof mounted AC unit. That wire is already tucked in the box and capped off.
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OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I also popped the corner trim in anticipation of moving the shore power cable behind it.
I few months ago, I picked up this shallow 1 1/8" Milwaukee hole saw. Well it came in handy drilling through the corner trim. Although I really needed a 1 1/16" drill bit for the grommets, I made do.
I also popped the corner trim in anticipation of moving the shore power cable behind it.
I few months ago, I picked up this shallow 1 1/8" Milwaukee hole saw. Well it came in handy drilling through the corner trim. Although I really needed a 1 1/16" drill bit for the grommets, I made do.
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OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Just to be on the safe side, I made a test hole in some sheet metal and check the grommets.
And I thought I had a picture of the grommets installed in the corner trim. Apparently, I quit working on the trailer so I could load up the Mustang on the open trailer and go to the track on Wed night without snapping a picture.
It's all good as I got to make a few test passes and was rewarded with an 11.41 @ 123 on the last pass before they closed the staging lanes for first round. So far, that is the fastest all motor pass and she still has more in it. I just need to play with some fuel, timing and launch rpm. HOPEFULLY, it should start cooling off soon and some good weather come our way.
Just to be on the safe side, I made a test hole in some sheet metal and check the grommets.
And I thought I had a picture of the grommets installed in the corner trim. Apparently, I quit working on the trailer so I could load up the Mustang on the open trailer and go to the track on Wed night without snapping a picture.
It's all good as I got to make a few test passes and was rewarded with an 11.41 @ 123 on the last pass before they closed the staging lanes for first round. So far, that is the fastest all motor pass and she still has more in it. I just need to play with some fuel, timing and launch rpm. HOPEFULLY, it should start cooling off soon and some good weather come our way.
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Rag Roc
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: Nutts Trailer project
"I worked on a few more things, went in the house to do some Google research. Then I learn the screws are a double square bit and it still doesn't click. I look for a double square bit online and find an Octidrive bit. Wow, going to have to order it. I start checking out some screws on Ebay, possibly to have some spares while I'm working on the interior. Then I see it and the light bulb comes on.....double square.... square drive, yeah I have plenty of them. OMG, I felt like an idiot and told the wife about it. We had a good laugh on my brain fart."
Don't feel bad I went through the same thing a few years ago, then found out a couple friends had the same problem.
Picking up my new trailer next month. Following your post as you always have great common sense ideas.
Good luck with the build!
"I worked on a few more things, went in the house to do some Google research. Then I learn the screws are a double square bit and it still doesn't click. I look for a double square bit online and find an Octidrive bit. Wow, going to have to order it. I start checking out some screws on Ebay, possibly to have some spares while I'm working on the interior. Then I see it and the light bulb comes on.....double square.... square drive, yeah I have plenty of them. OMG, I felt like an idiot and told the wife about it. We had a good laugh on my brain fart."
Don't feel bad I went through the same thing a few years ago, then found out a couple friends had the same problem.
Picking up my new trailer next month. Following your post as you always have great common sense ideas.
Good luck with the build!
oscar80
Well-known member
Re: Nutts Trailer project
What's your plan for the floor? I went with Sherwin Williams epoxy and it looks good
What's your plan for the floor? I went with Sherwin Williams epoxy and it looks good
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Thank you and thank you. It seems that i always work on a project 10 times in my head before I actually do it. I run over and over things to see if they will work. Often times I catch something that I know won't work and make the change before I even go hands on. ...vivid imagination I guess.
Thank you and thank you. It seems that i always work on a project 10 times in my head before I actually do it. I run over and over things to see if they will work. Often times I catch something that I know won't work and make the change before I even go hands on. ...vivid imagination I guess.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I bought a Rustoleum kit from Menard's and a clear kit for it....gray with blue, black and whilte flakes, typical Ford colors IMHO, about the same as the inside of my garage.
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...452979952-c-5650.htm?tid=-4427820935666009546
I bought a Rustoleum kit from Menard's and a clear kit for it....gray with blue, black and whilte flakes, typical Ford colors IMHO, about the same as the inside of my garage.
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...452979952-c-5650.htm?tid=-4427820935666009546
oscar80
Well-known member
Re: Nutts Trailer project
About the same product. The wood ***** the epoxy up so buy extra
About the same product. The wood ***** the epoxy up so buy extra
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I'm not sure how I missed this thread, but man, that's a great looking trailer!
I really like the rear overhang, too.
Looking forward to seeing more of this project!
I'm not sure how I missed this thread, but man, that's a great looking trailer!
I really like the rear overhang, too.Looking forward to seeing more of this project!
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
The kit I bought is a 2.5 car garage kit, I hope it'll be enough.
Thank you.
The kit I bought is a 2.5 car garage kit, I hope it'll be enough.
I'm not sure how I missed this thread, but man, that's a great looking trailer!
Looking forward to seeing more of this project!
Thank you.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Once again thanks to this miserable Ohio weather, I didn't get a whole lot done. Besides the weather, I had the pup out there with me driving me crazy. I can't leave him alone for a minute and he drives me crazy at times. The wife thinks he needs ritalin or something. I've never seen a pup that is so clingy or whiny.
Here's the corner panel with the grommets installed and siliconed in place.
I have the shore power some what in place. I have to get the outlet strip in place and take the slack out before I reattach the corner trim.
Once again thanks to this miserable Ohio weather, I didn't get a whole lot done. Besides the weather, I had the pup out there with me driving me crazy. I can't leave him alone for a minute and he drives me crazy at times. The wife thinks he needs ritalin or something. I've never seen a pup that is so clingy or whiny.
Here's the corner panel with the grommets installed and siliconed in place.
I have the shore power some what in place. I have to get the outlet strip in place and take the slack out before I reattach the corner trim.
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OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I got the corner trim put back on today and screwed in place. You can see how the shore power cable goes in and comes back out at the bottom. I still need to drill a new access home in the floor of the trailer....time for a new tool....4" hole saw.
Also mounted the outlet strip to the wall and fastened the shore power cable to the top of it. If all goes right, the upper cabinets will sit right above them.
I got the corner trim put back on today and screwed in place. You can see how the shore power cable goes in and comes back out at the bottom. I still need to drill a new access home in the floor of the trailer....time for a new tool....4" hole saw.
Also mounted the outlet strip to the wall and fastened the shore power cable to the top of it. If all goes right, the upper cabinets will sit right above them.
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OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
The wife and I ran to town to pick up a few things, some for her and something for me. A new 4" Milwaukee hole saw. I chucked it up and got to work.
The piece that was cut out was put to good use, plugging the old hole. There's an 8"x8' piece of 1/2" plywood glued and screwed top/bottom underneath.
I wasn't quite sure what to fill the gap between the hole and plug so I just used some of the construction adhesive. This area is going to get an epoxy over it and I'm hoping it will stick to the adhesive once it's dry and scuffed up with 80grit. If all else fails, this area will be covered by the 44" HF box.
With the exception of swapping out the T8s for LEDs, the electrical is done.
The wife and I ran to town to pick up a few things, some for her and something for me. A new 4" Milwaukee hole saw. I chucked it up and got to work.
The piece that was cut out was put to good use, plugging the old hole. There's an 8"x8' piece of 1/2" plywood glued and screwed top/bottom underneath.
I wasn't quite sure what to fill the gap between the hole and plug so I just used some of the construction adhesive. This area is going to get an epoxy over it and I'm hoping it will stick to the adhesive once it's dry and scuffed up with 80grit. If all else fails, this area will be covered by the 44" HF box.
With the exception of swapping out the T8s for LEDs, the electrical is done.
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Slycox
Well-known member
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Very nice. Definitely a better position for the wire. Surprising they didn't put the panel there originally it would free up wall space.
Very nice. Definitely a better position for the wire. Surprising they didn't put the panel there originally it would free up wall space.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Panel remains in the factory position. It's location could be spec'ed for placement elsewhere. I was fine with it here but my mistake for not thinking through on the location of the shorepower and floor access.
Panel remains in the factory position. It's location could be spec'ed for placement elsewhere. I was fine with it here but my mistake for not thinking through on the location of the shorepower and floor access.
slimpickins
Well-known member
Re: Nutts Trailer project
This makes me wish I had an excuse to buy a trailer just to have fun outfitting the interior. Great work!
Cheers!
This makes me wish I had an excuse to buy a trailer just to have fun outfitting the interior. Great work!
Cheers!
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I wish I had thought of this sooner. On my 24 foot Featherlight they used an RV Port Connector for the power supply. The Breaker Panel is on the opposite side of the RV Connector in a cabinet. They supplied a cord to go from the Gen or Shop Outlet to the RV Port. Works pretty slick...see pic
I spent 6 months getting our hauler up to speed after buying it. You are doing a great job!!!
I wish I had thought of this sooner. On my 24 foot Featherlight they used an RV Port Connector for the power supply. The Breaker Panel is on the opposite side of the RV Connector in a cabinet. They supplied a cord to go from the Gen or Shop Outlet to the RV Port. Works pretty slick...see pic
I spent 6 months getting our hauler up to speed after buying it. You are doing a great job!!!
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Slycox
Well-known member
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I see, nicely done with it worked well with the power strip.
I see, nicely done with it worked well with the power strip.
Re: Nutts Trailer project
ive wanted enclosed for a while as well. any reason you didnt go for the over the axles door for easy car access ? did they have an option for spread axles? if you dont mind what did that run ball park?
ive wanted enclosed for a while as well. any reason you didnt go for the over the axles door for easy car access ? did they have an option for spread axles? if you dont mind what did that run ball park?
Alchymist
Well-known member
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Impressed!
Impressed!
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I can give you the phone number to a good salesman.
I considered getting one similar to that installed but it would have been another hole in the side which I really didn't want. My other thought was if I got too close to something and scraped the side of the trailer, that would probably be the one spot that got damaged, then I would be screwed.
I can give you the phone number to a good salesman.
I considered getting one similar to that installed but it would have been another hole in the side which I really didn't want. My other thought was if I got too close to something and scraped the side of the trailer, that would probably be the one spot that got damaged, then I would be screwed.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Yes it did and I'm happy for that.
Yes, I consider Norwalk my home track. Even though It's been awhile since I've been out, going to Marion County, Milan,Mi and National trails is on the short distance list.
BTW, Norwalk still has a pound of ice cream for a buck.
Yes it did and I'm happy for that.
Yes, I consider Norwalk my home track. Even though It's been awhile since I've been out, going to Marion County, Milan,Mi and National trails is on the short distance list.
BTW, Norwalk still has a pound of ice cream for a buck.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I'll be installing a winch after teh cabinets are in, so I won't be climbing in/out of the car. That's also one more spot to leak, broke into (says me with an RV latch) or just to have an issue with.
I'm pretty sure they offer spread axles. Although I know it's supposed to haul better, I'm not fond of the look.
I think we are into it for about $11K. That included the change to the double 24" doors with RV latch which was a $500 upgrade. The price included the tax also.
I oughta get the paperwork out since I'm doing this thread and list all the options I choose for the guys here to see. ....not trying to "toot my own horn" but for those that are curious as to what comes in an enclosed trailer.
I'd also add the fact that my trailer is rated for 9990 lbs rather than the 10,400 that might implied with twin 5200 lb axles. I inquired about it when I bought the trailer and it's basically to get around a few laws. Per my salesman, in the great state of PA, any trailer rated over 10k lb is required to get an inspection. Putting a slightly lower rating on the trailer circumvents this yet it does have the same axles as a 10,400lb rated trailer. They also sell single axle (3500 lb axles) with a rating of 2990 lbs to circumvent the law requiring a trailer with a rating over 3k lbs of needing brakes. Nothing more than a play on words to sell more trailers.
Thank you, it's greatly appreciated.
I'll be installing a winch after teh cabinets are in, so I won't be climbing in/out of the car. That's also one more spot to leak, broke into (says me with an RV latch) or just to have an issue with.
I'm pretty sure they offer spread axles. Although I know it's supposed to haul better, I'm not fond of the look.
I think we are into it for about $11K. That included the change to the double 24" doors with RV latch which was a $500 upgrade. The price included the tax also.
I oughta get the paperwork out since I'm doing this thread and list all the options I choose for the guys here to see. ....not trying to "toot my own horn" but for those that are curious as to what comes in an enclosed trailer.
I'd also add the fact that my trailer is rated for 9990 lbs rather than the 10,400 that might implied with twin 5200 lb axles. I inquired about it when I bought the trailer and it's basically to get around a few laws. Per my salesman, in the great state of PA, any trailer rated over 10k lb is required to get an inspection. Putting a slightly lower rating on the trailer circumvents this yet it does have the same axles as a 10,400lb rated trailer. They also sell single axle (3500 lb axles) with a rating of 2990 lbs to circumvent the law requiring a trailer with a rating over 3k lbs of needing brakes. Nothing more than a play on words to sell more trailers.
Thank you, it's greatly appreciated.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
This is my stack of tie downs and hardware. In the background are 1/8" plates that will be bolted underneath the floor and one end welded to the frame. The plates have already been painted with black POR15.
My hokey template for laying out the holes for the tie downs.
Even though the template looks like ****, I cleaned the hole up before I actually cut it out. Heck, you'll never see the hole once it's all done.
This is my stack of tie downs and hardware. In the background are 1/8" plates that will be bolted underneath the floor and one end welded to the frame. The plates have already been painted with black POR15.
My hokey template for laying out the holes for the tie downs.
Even though the template looks like ****, I cleaned the hole up before I actually cut it out. Heck, you'll never see the hole once it's all done.
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OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Well the holddowns fit in the hole.
I used my welding magnets to hold the plates in place under the trailer to make the bolt holes.
I marked and numbered each plate just incase something was off. After this was done, I chased an issue I have had with my "new" Miller welding helmet. I didn't get to finish this project today but I did the two rear tiedowns backing plates welded in place.
Well the holddowns fit in the hole.
I used my welding magnets to hold the plates in place under the trailer to make the bolt holes.
I marked and numbered each plate just incase something was off. After this was done, I chased an issue I have had with my "new" Miller welding helmet. I didn't get to finish this project today but I did the two rear tiedowns backing plates welded in place.
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OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
That thought has crossed my mind. Between the length of my truck and trailer I'm about the same length as our ladder tower at the fire dept. It has a back up camera (as does my truck) and comes in real handy at times.
That thought has crossed my mind. Between the length of my truck and trailer I'm about the same length as our ladder tower at the fire dept. It has a back up camera (as does my truck) and comes in real handy at times.
Rag Roc
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Eric handled the response well, but I have three things to add.
1) The escape door IMHO reduces the structural integrity of the trailer.
2) In many cases on a low car, the car door will not open through the escape door; making the door useless, unless you add material to the floor to raise the car.
3) If you climb out of the car window you run the risk of tearing up the weatherstripping, standing on the seat, etc. I will never have a trailer without a winch.
My $.02
Eric handled the response well, but I have three things to add.
1) The escape door IMHO reduces the structural integrity of the trailer.
2) In many cases on a low car, the car door will not open through the escape door; making the door useless, unless you add material to the floor to raise the car.
3) If you climb out of the car window you run the risk of tearing up the weatherstripping, standing on the seat, etc. I will never have a trailer without a winch.
My $.02
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Thanks.
I'll agree on number 1 also. Some of the newer designs that are doing with trailers make me wonder how they will still together after bouncing down the road after a few thousand miles.
#2, My doors open when the car is on my open trailer so I don't think my car is too low but I hope to not find out.
Number 3, Don't forget trying to climb out around the cage also. Luckily, as of right now, my car only has a 6 point in it. But once it needs to be upgraded, it will be harder to get out. Winch also in the plan for mine.
Thanks.
I'll agree on number 1 also. Some of the newer designs that are doing with trailers make me wonder how they will still together after bouncing down the road after a few thousand miles.
#2, My doors open when the car is on my open trailer so I don't think my car is too low but I hope to not find out.
Number 3, Don't forget trying to climb out around the cage also. Luckily, as of right now, my car only has a 6 point in it. But once it needs to be upgraded, it will be harder to get out. Winch also in the plan for mine.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Not much to show today. I welded in the front two backing plates for the tie downs. I'll admit, while I'm not the best welder, laying under the trailer up in between the frame rail is a PITA. After I welded them, they got wire brushed, cleaned with some lacquer thinner and hit with some Rustoleum. Once I get a can of undercoating, they'll got a coat of that too.
You might notice the bare wood underneath also, That's going to get a coat of black oil based Rustoleum while the expoxy floor is drying. In preperationof that event, I used my 5" sander to do the entire floor this evening.
Not much to show today. I welded in the front two backing plates for the tie downs. I'll admit, while I'm not the best welder, laying under the trailer up in between the frame rail is a PITA. After I welded them, they got wire brushed, cleaned with some lacquer thinner and hit with some Rustoleum. Once I get a can of undercoating, they'll got a coat of that too.
You might notice the bare wood underneath also, That's going to get a coat of black oil based Rustoleum while the expoxy floor is drying. In preperationof that event, I used my 5" sander to do the entire floor this evening.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Nutts: welds look like it will hold and being pretty under your trailer isn't a huge factor. just a tip I'm learning while I'm getting ready to weld myself are some of the safety factors. one thing i heard is that you should wear ear protection or at least ear plugs especially when underneath your project. i heard of more than one person getting a hot piece of weld/slag in their ear and putting a hole in their ear drum. maybe you already use ear plugs or have other protection and just wanted to let you know what i'm learning since you mentioned you are still learning yourself.
love the trailer and keep up the great work.
Nutts: welds look like it will hold and being pretty under your trailer isn't a huge factor. just a tip I'm learning while I'm getting ready to weld myself are some of the safety factors. one thing i heard is that you should wear ear protection or at least ear plugs especially when underneath your project. i heard of more than one person getting a hot piece of weld/slag in their ear and putting a hole in their ear drum. maybe you already use ear plugs or have other protection and just wanted to let you know what i'm learning since you mentioned you are still learning yourself.
love the trailer and keep up the great work.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Thanks, fortunately, I was leaning up and not welding directly above my head. I have learned by accident that welding beries can and will go anywhere casuing freakish **** to happen...
Thanks, fortunately, I was leaning up and not welding directly above my head. I have learned by accident that welding beries can and will go anywhere casuing freakish **** to happen...
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: Nutts Trailer project
Nice looking enclosed trailer and nice job on the setup. I kind of miss my 26' Haulmark Edge race trailer after seeing this thread.
^^This is what I had on my Haulmark Edge. It looked clean and neat as well as easy to connect to either shore power when traveling or from the generator on our coach when at the dunes or track.
Mike.
Nice looking enclosed trailer and nice job on the setup. I kind of miss my 26' Haulmark Edge race trailer after seeing this thread.
^^This is what I had on my Haulmark Edge. It looked clean and neat as well as easy to connect to either shore power when traveling or from the generator on our coach when at the dunes or track.
Mike.
OP
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I went out today and washed the floor down with a wet towel and soapy water. it had the rest of today to dry and will also have all day tomorrow as I'll be at work. I'll probably make a run to Menard's on Sunday morning after work to grab a few things like mixing buckets....figures, the 11% sale is over Saturday.
The flap on the ramp door was only 16" wide so I cut a new one that will be 32" wide. I sanded it like I did the floor as I'm going to add epoxy to the backside so it matches the ramp when it's closed. The top side will get some aluminum diamond plate. In preparation, I wanted something underneath the plywood. So I broke out the black Rustoleum that's for the bottom of the trailer and gave it a coat. I also pulled the spare tire well cover off, sanded it and now the underside of it black rather than bare plywood. I had some left over paint so I rolled what I had left on the underneath of the trailer.
I also made atrip to the BMV, got my license plate and removed the temp tag that was on the trailer. In doing all that, somewhere I have misplaced my certificate of origin for my trailer. I'm hoping the girl at the bank has it in my file. I'll check when I turn my title in for the lein.
I went out today and washed the floor down with a wet towel and soapy water. it had the rest of today to dry and will also have all day tomorrow as I'll be at work. I'll probably make a run to Menard's on Sunday morning after work to grab a few things like mixing buckets....figures, the 11% sale is over Saturday.
The flap on the ramp door was only 16" wide so I cut a new one that will be 32" wide. I sanded it like I did the floor as I'm going to add epoxy to the backside so it matches the ramp when it's closed. The top side will get some aluminum diamond plate. In preparation, I wanted something underneath the plywood. So I broke out the black Rustoleum that's for the bottom of the trailer and gave it a coat. I also pulled the spare tire well cover off, sanded it and now the underside of it black rather than bare plywood. I had some left over paint so I rolled what I had left on the underneath of the trailer.
I also made atrip to the BMV, got my license plate and removed the temp tag that was on the trailer. In doing all that, somewhere I have misplaced my certificate of origin for my trailer. I'm hoping the girl at the bank has it in my file. I'll check when I turn my title in for the lein.
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C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: Nutts Trailer project
I love the burnout patches on the garage floor!
I love the burnout patches on the garage floor!