Olsen Spec Projects

[Wiz02]

So, what's the story on the clear bra material you're putting on cars? How does it hold up over time? Does it come off?

In the RV world, there's a lot of folks out there that have a clear bra on the front of coaches. They don't last and they spend quite a lot of money (or time) trying to get them off because they get mold under the edges and look like complete ****. These any different?

Mold under Expel? I had Expel Paint Protective Film (PPF) installed on my vette in 2008. Last year I replaced it and the paint was perfect after 16 years, certainly no mold.

While the Expel PPF had yellowed and was lifting off in spots (rockers), it certainly protected the paint and was long lasting.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I really need to adopt the highlighted portion above. When I had my speed shop, I wasn't rolling in the money by any means, we did ok, but there were times I cut deals, still do for some reason. I track my time pretty accurately each night with time and a brief overview of the work I performed, but even last night when looking over the hours, I saw a couple of areas where I felt like that particular task shouldn't have taken me as long as it did, so I trimmed the hours back a little here and there. Yes, screwed myself.

I do think though it is important to note that being a professional you are accountable to having the proper information and kit to back it up (which you seem to do).

As business owners we are held accountable to being the expert, and we charge handsomely. But we must have the three things in place that I mentioned to back up the hourly, otherwise price gouging can become a factor.

Please do not take that the wrong way as I am not accusing you of that. I just think those three things I discussed come first (the value add), then the price is commanded.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

So, what's the story on the clear bra material you're putting on cars? How does it hold up over time? Does it come off?

In the RV world, there's a lot of folks out there that have a clear bra on the front of coaches. They don't last and they spend quite a lot of money (or time) trying to get them off because they get mold under the edges and look like complete ****. These any different?

I think in that case you need to look at the product they are using and how it is applied. Any Clear bra will “mold” at the edges if the edges are not wrapped all the way around the panel and hidden. It is just a by product of a seam and the elements (not including pressure washers etc) getting thrown at it.

We wrap the edges under, never showing the seam. It helps.

As far as removing, I am sure there are a lot of experts here to chime in, but we take them off using high pressure steam. Usually peels right off, and the paint underneath is perfect.

I have a raptor that is full ppf. I go bombing down trails taking branch scratches etc. It gets destroyed. Leave it out for a couple days in the sun and it’s perfect and all the scratches are baked out.

The two best products are Xpel and Suntek. Both are equally as good IMHO. Personally I like the suntek product myself for clear bra. It tends to retain coatings better and keep its clarity longer, but Xpel has a better window tint IMHO.

As far as longevity both are equally as good?

I cannot speak for other brands and have absolutely no experience with them.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

So sorry guys. I forgot to add photos of the final on the targa. It is leaving for paint tomorrow!

I will let the pictures speak for themselves and hope that it lives up to the high standards here on GJ. It is afterall the fabrication and techniques section!

Happy to have it all wrapped up. What is next for us in metal shop is some rather boring projects, a sunroof delete, some windscreen patches on 911’s and a C2 that is getting converted to factory 3.8RS wide body. Those are all pretty run of the mill projects.

We are currently designing our next custom 1 of 1’s which are a 964 targa, as well as a 993 turbo. Both are in my final design stages of rendor and I hope to have them done by middle of January.

Thanks for following along with the targa project and hope everyone enjoyed it!

 

[NYBODYMAN]

I'm only on page 2 but this is my new favorite thread. Amazing shop!!!

 

[scooby074]

So sorry guys. I forgot to add photos of the final on the targa. It is leaving for paint tomorrow!

I will let the pictures speak for themselves and hope that it lives up to the high standards here on GJ. It is afterall the fabrication and techniques section!

Happy to have it all wrapped up. What is next for us in metal shop is some rather boring projects, a sunroof delete, some windscreen patches on 911’s and a C2 that is getting converted to factory 3.8RS wide body. Those are all pretty run of the mill projects.

We are currently designing our next custom 1 of 1’s which are a 964 targa, as well as a 993 turbo. Both are in my final design stages of rendor and I hope to have them done by middle of January.

Thanks for following along with the targa project and hope everyone enjoyed it!

Wow that Targa was ROUGH!. I didnt notice all the rust in the earlier pics. Whats the plan? Going to get it dipped and ecoated? Blasted? Curious how youre going to clean up that interior protect all that great new work going forward.

Also, Something that came to me when you were cleaning those parts was Dry Ice. Have you ever tried out a dry ice blaster? I ran one for a couple years blasting similar "sticky" materials off delicate Aluminum molds and it worked excellent. Just throwing it out there as you are concerned about dirtying up your cleaning solution with those very dirty parts(no cleaning solution with dry ice obviously).

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I'm only on page 2 but this is my new favorite thread. Amazing shop!!!

Thank you for the support! Really grateful for it!

 

[Wiz02]

Are rusty heat exchangers still a thing? I had a 10 year old 1970 911T as my DD and had to keep a window open when I ran the heat.

I used to make all kinds of inappropriate jokes about being gassed, but the exhaust gas in the cabin was no joke.

Are the heat exchangers now made of SS?

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Wow that Targa was ROUGH!. I didnt notice all the rust in the earlier pics. Whats the plan? Going to get it dipped and ecoated? Blasted? Curious how youre going to clean up that interior protect all that great new work going forward.

Also, Something that came to me when you were cleaning those parts was Dry Ice. Have you ever tried out a dry ice blaster? I ran one for a couple years blasting similar "sticky" materials off delicate Aluminum molds and it worked excellent. Just throwing it out there as you are concerned about dirtying up your cleaning solution with those very dirty parts(no cleaning solution with dry ice obviously).

Great question - that actually isn’t rust, it is the remnants of carpet and glue still stuck to the tub. That will all get removed/cleaned before we go to paint.

I actually have a Cold Jet PCS60 I brought from my other store. We shut down dry ice operation’s there as it wasnt making money. I have all the equipment to make it work, just do not have the electricity to run the setup. (Or the space for that matter).

We are doing what is hopefully our last expansion at the beginning of Q2 and that is when we will set the dry ice up. We are moving Fab into its own dedicated 2k sq ft space with more power. Right now all my breakers are completely full.




I have this sitting in storage. It’s a Kaishan 40 hp screw. Just a beast.


Ive got a 160gallon holding tank, and elgi air mate, pre filters and driers, everything. Just no space or power. This is all sitting in my storage space ready to set.



Here is the dry ice machine. It really needs its own space. I cannot begin to tell you how loud this thing is at full send. It is deafening. If I try and use it in our current store everyone would quit!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Are rusty heat exchangers still a thing? I had a 10 year old 1970 911T as my DD and had to keep a window open when I ran the heat.

I used to make all kinds of inappropriate jokes about being gassed, but the exhaust gas in the cabin was no joke.

Are the heat exchangers now made of SS?

Yeah those are still a thing lol. Except now instead of rusty and gassy it is just burning oil smell (and sometimes smoke ) from the cars just sitting and leaking!

The headers are still steel but the boxes are stainless.

 

[Scuderia-F1]

I think in that case you need to look at the product they are using and how it is applied. Any Clear bra will “mold” at the edges if the edges are not wrapped all the way around the panel and hidden. It is just a by product of a seam and the elements (not including pressure washers etc) getting thrown at it.

We wrap the edges under, never showing the seam. It helps.

As far as removing, I am sure there are a lot of experts here to chime in, but we take them off using high pressure steam. Usually peels right off, and the paint underneath is perfect.

I have a raptor that is full ppf. I go bombing down trails taking branch scratches etc. It gets destroyed. Leave it out for a couple days in the sun and it’s perfect and all the scratches are baked out.

The two best products are Xpel and Suntek. Both are equally as good IMHO. Personally I like the suntek product myself for clear bra. It tends to retain coatings better and keep its clarity longer, but Xpel has a better window tint IMHO.

As far as longevity both are equally as good?

I cannot speak for other brands and have absolutely no experience with them.

My experience as well (Xpel vs Suntek), I'm also loyal to them until I see something that's better. A bit interested in the Gyeon PPF, don't have any relevant experience with longevity of that one tho.

 

[Scuderia-F1]

Great question - that actually isn’t rust, it is the remnants of carpet and glue still stuck to the tub. That will all get removed/cleaned before we go to paint.

I actually have a Cold Jet PCS60 I brought from my other store. We shut down dry ice operation’s there as it wasnt making money. I have all the equipment to make it work, just do not have the electricity to run the setup. (Or the space for that matter).

We are doing what is hopefully our last expansion at the beginning of Q2 and that is when we will set the dry ice up. We are moving Fab into its own dedicated 2k sq ft space with more power. Right now all my breakers are completely full.




I have this sitting in storage. It’s a Kaishan 40 hp screw. Just a beast.


Ive got a 160gallon holding tank, and elgi air mate, pre filters and driers, everything. Just no space or power. This is all sitting in my storage space ready to set.



Here is the dry ice machine. It really needs its own space. I cannot begin to tell you how loud this thing is at full send. It is deafening. If I try and use it in our current store everyone would quit!

DAYUM, that is a dreamy setup. Drooled hard over this when you had it running in your other store. Looking forward to see your new "factory" up and running....

 

[olsenmotorsports]

My experience as well (Xpel vs Suntek), I'm also loyal to them until I see something that's better. A bit interested in the Gyeon PPF, don't have any relevant experience with longevity of that one tho.

What’s the story with Gyeon? New stuff?

 

[zmotorsports]

I approach things one way and it is pretty binary. I do not lose money. Period. If I do it is because on one of three things (or a combination of all of them )

1. Improper tooling (solved immediately and order placed)
2. Improper information (solved as quickly as possible but priority one)
3. Not enough effort from the team (another thing dealt with immediately)

I do think though it is important to note that being a professional you are accountable to having the proper information and kit to back it up (which you seem to do).

As business owners we are held accountable to being the expert, and we charge handsomely. But we must have the three things in place that I mentioned to back up the hourly, otherwise price gouging can become a factor.

Please do not take that the wrong way as I am not accusing you of that. I just think those three things I discussed come first (the value add), then the price is commanded.

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Yes, I would agree with your list. I added my thoughts as well. I would like to think my home shop is as well equipped, or better, than most commercial shops in my area or any area for that matter. I have spent a lifetime outfitting my shop for my retirement years and wanting to keep as many operations in-house as possible with little to no outsourcing.


1. Improper tooling (solved immediately and order placed) I have no problem buying a tool(s) to do the job correctly.
2. Improper information (solved as quickly as possible but priority one) Usually easy enough to come by.
3. Not enough effort from the team (another thing dealt with immediately) One man shop. If something is done without enough effort, it's me and only me.


Granted, I am not running a business any longer and even when I did, it was nowhere on your level. However, the jobs I do on the side I still try to treat in a professional manner and provide the best workmanship I can to the client. These days I don't go looking for work like I did in my early years. Work usually comes to me and as of late I am of the mindset that if I am going to do it I am going to make it worth my while or I have enough of my own stuff to work on for free.

Thanks again for your comments.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Work began on the 993. This one has to be at paint by EOD (964 already left)




Rear sub assemblies come out first. This makes the engine removal easier. All the hardware gets zip tied into its correct home. This ensures that nothing gets lost in the shuffle - when it is time to restore those assemblies then the hardware is addressed. Cannot enforce this enough. It is the key to success where everything is.




Next out is the front stuff. Diff- everything comes out as a sub assemblies. These will get stored, and when we have time in the next few weeks ( a hole in the schedule) it will get restored and addressed. Keeping everything together is critical for that to happen smoothly.



The rest of the stuff is racked and tagged for cleaning.



Engine is on its way to my stand. I have to have this apart and shipped to machining by EOD on thursday.

Next up for the guys is the interior, then front and rear trunk.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Yes, I would agree with your list. I added my thoughts as well. I would like to think my home shop is as well equipped, or better, than most commercial shops in my area or any area for that matter. I have spent a lifetime outfitting my shop for my retirement years and wanting to keep as many operations in-house as possible with little to no outsourcing.


1. Improper tooling (solved immediately and order placed) I have no problem buying a tool(s) to do the job correctly.
2. Improper information (solved as quickly as possible but priority one) Usually easy enough to come by.
3. Not enough effort from the team (another thing dealt with immediately) One man shop. If something is done without enough effort, it's me and only me.


Granted, I am not running a business any longer and even when I did, it was nowhere on your level. However, the jobs I do on the side I still try to treat in a professional manner and provide the best workmanship I can to the client. These days I don't go looking for work like I did in my early years. Work usually comes to me and as of late I am of the mindset that if I am going to do it I am going to make it worth my while or I have enough of my own stuff to work on for free.

Thanks again for your comments.

LOL you gotta love that me and only me accountability! Blessing and a curse all at the same time.

You are an inspiration for me as your biz model is exactly what my retirement will be in a couple years. Building cars for people! Pretty excited about it and you have written the road map!

 

[zmotorsports]

The rest of the stuff is racked and tagged for cleaning.

Just a couple of years ago I purchased a rolling shelf for holding parts/component as they come off a vehicle. One of the best things I added to the shop as it keeps everything together and just as importantly, keeps the workbenches clear of parts unless they are actually being worked on. I can't recommend something like this enough to others looking for a clean solution to keep benches clear and parts organized or grouped together. I should have done it sooner. When I had my speed shop I used large totes but that was much more of a cumbersome solution than the mobile shelf.

LOL you gotta love that me and only me accountability! Blessing and a curse all at the same time.

You are an inspiration for me as your biz model is exactly what my retirement will be in a couple years. Building cars for people! Pretty excited about it and you have written the road map!

WOW! Thank you, I am flattered. I wouldn't call mine a business model per se, just have always figured during retirement I want to build more vehicles and wanted my shop fully outfitted well before actually retiring. My goal isn't to necessarily make a fortune during retirement, just want to keep busy and doing more of what I love, building cars and Jeeps. I figure if I can make money while doing so that will be less funds I need to pull from my portfolio. At least that's the way I have envisioned my retirement looking, not really from a business standpoint.

 

[Scuderia-F1]

What’s the story with Gyeon? New stuff?

Gyeon has been around for quite some time in high end detailing. They added PPF film to the product line a while back.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Gyeon has been around for quite some time in high end detailing. They added PPF film to the product line a while back.

Let me know on testing!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

What a chaotic day. Did not get as much accomplished on the 993 engine as I wanted to, got into it around 10:30 after meetings. need to have it done by lunch tomorrow.



Nothing really to show here. Pretty straight forward 52k mile car. Just leaking. This one is getting a 3.8L conversion.


Only real issue is tackling that IAC valve LMAO - Crazy this car didn’t throw any Secondary Air codes



I have seen a lot of guys struggle with these. I don’t even attempt to get them off. I just cut them - it is a waste of time to even try IMHO.



I just grab a straight cut off wheel and slice the top off so you can get to the 27mm head at the base of the valve - normally you would use a wrench - in car I do have a crows foot that I had hardened and welded on a air hammer tip to it. That works - but it tends to bend the bracket. Best to cut it off.



Once you have the top cut off just use 27 on an impact and bobs your uncle. Always zips right off.



I always get my balls busted when I break out the old speed wrenches. Lot of guys make fun of them, but I gotta say for nuts like this in tight access you are grateful to have them!






One side broken down. All the studs taken out and all the rest of the bits sorted and stored for cleaning.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Just a couple of years ago I purchased a rolling shelf for holding parts/component as they come off a vehicle. One of the best things I added to the shop as it keeps everything together and just as importantly, keeps the workbenches clear of parts unless they are actually being worked on. I can't recommend something like this enough to others looking for a clean solution to keep benches clear and parts organized or grouped together. I should have done it sooner. When I had my speed shop I used large totes but that was much more of a cumbersome solution than the mobile shelf.

I do the same thing.


My stepson owns a restaurant by us so I had him get me bread racks from restaurant depot. That is the first step in tear down. Everything gets organized according to the way it gets cleaned, as well as its priority to get done. All the plastics together etc. this was from the engine I am taking apart today.


I just use aluminum trays. Tear down fill them up and then stack them in the bread cart so they can go to the cleaning station. After cleaning the rack gets torn down and everything goes into cabinetry according to the RO#.



Top racks are in order of importance so they clean top down. The cylinder heads leave in an uber for machine shop as soon as they come out of the bath. Everything comes off and we have a rule that within 24 hours everything lands at outsource for a quick turnaround.



This is the bin of junk stuff that gets ordered asap if it isn’t in stock



One bin gets dedicated Mag, all the mag stays together so that the techs do not use the machines to clean it. (Ultra sonic destroys mag)



Here all the electronics, rubber stuff, and plating all get organized as they come off and then immediately cleaned and tagged for repair etc.

I know it looks like chaos - but somehow it kind of works

I have one FT employee and this is literally all he does it catalogue inbound and outbound parts!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Snap-on guy got me today, Some stuff I have had on order finally came in. I also had some warranty on a ratchet that was just plain worn out and some broken punches.



I have been wanting that short barrel air hammer for a while - it is going to come in clutch on some of the stuff where it is a little tighter. Would have been a good test on that motor I took apart last week to try it out I am not sure on the spec’s if it hits as hard as the longer barrel, but I will find a use for it somehow!



Also I grabbed the 14v 45 degree drill. I am not sold on battery powered drills yet (they are too big and clunky for me) so I still use my air drills religiously, but I didn’t have one in a 45 degree and saw this in the flier and had to have it.

It is a lot bigger and clunkier than the air

Last thing that came in today was my 3/4 semi deep 30mm socket. That one took almost 4 weeks to arrive.

Not sure whats going on with snap on lately, I know the stuff I buy isn’t regularly stocked but unless you ask for overnight their shipping times have been weeks, and they are literally only 2 hours away from my store! Luckily I am too a point where nothing is urgent as I do have quite a few tools to choose from.

 

[Boosted1]

Great organization and methodical process you have established. I like it.

 

[SilverJimmy]

I was a Snap-On Dealer for 30 years, 1989-2019 and every time I get on a truck I’m amazed by all the new stuff that is on it! I really do suffer from FOMO! And I also buy something every time! You and Mike @zmotorsports would have been dream customers, I would have had to be really up on my game for you two!

 

[scooby074]

Great question - that actually isn’t rust, it is the remnants of carpet and glue still stuck to the tub. That will all get removed/cleaned before we go to paint.

I actually have a Cold Jet PCS60 I brought from my other store. We shut down dry ice operation’s there as it wasnt making money. I have all the equipment to make it work, just do not have the electricity to run the setup. (Or the space for that matter).

We are doing what is hopefully our last expansion at the beginning of Q2 and that is when we will set the dry ice up. We are moving Fab into its own dedicated 2k sq ft space with more power. Right now all my breakers are completely full.




I have this sitting in storage. It’s a Kaishan 40 hp screw. Just a beast.


Ive got a 160gallon holding tank, and elgi air mate, pre filters and driers, everything. Just no space or power. This is all sitting in my storage space ready to set.



Here is the dry ice machine. It really needs its own space. I cannot begin to tell you how loud this thing is at full send. It is deafening. If I try and use it in our current store everyone would quit!

Very nice. I should have known youd have one! Im real familiar with the racket it makes but in my world, ambient noise is just as bad or worse!

Our blaster wasnt that fancy but it worked well. Dry Ice blasting is a bit of underrated tech albeit its becoming more and more mainstream.

 

[Scuderia-F1]

What a chaotic day. Did not get as much accomplished on the 993 engine as I wanted to, got into it around 10:30 after meetings. need to have it done by lunch tomorrow.



Nothing really to show here. Pretty straight forward 52k mile car. Just leaking. This one is getting a 3.8L conversion.


Only real issue is tackling that IAC valve LMAO - Crazy this car didn’t throw any Secondary Air codes



I have seen a lot of guys struggle with these. I don’t even attempt to get them off. I just cut them - it is a waste of time to even try IMHO.



I just grab a straight cut off wheel and slice the top off so you can get to the 27mm head at the base of the valve - normally you would use a wrench - in car I do have a crows foot that I had hardened and welded on a air hammer tip to it. That works - but it tends to bend the bracket. Best to cut it off.



Once you have the top cut off just use 27 on an impact and bobs your uncle. Always zips right off.



I always get my balls busted when I break out the old speed wrenches. Lot of guys make fun of them, but I gotta say for nuts like this in tight access you are grateful to have them!






One side broken down. All the studs taken out and all the rest of the bits sorted and stored for cleaning.

Dude, old school speed wrenches is the bees knees.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Great organization and methodical process you have established. I like it.

Thank you! It’s funny you say that as I think we still have a long way to go to get “dialed in”. I’m always searching for new ideas!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I was a Snap-On Dealer for 30 years, 1989-2019 and every time I get on a truck I’m amazed by all the new stuff that is on it! I really do suffer from FOMO! And I also buy something every time! You and Mike @zmotorsports would have been dream customers, I would have had to be really up on my game for you two!

Thank you for your service to our needs over the years! I get it bro. Every time I go on the truck I tell myself not buying anything. There isn’t anything I need!

Every time I walk out with a handful of stuff I didn’t know I needed. EVERY TIME

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Very nice. I should have known youd have one! Im real familiar with the racket it makes but in my world, ambient noise is just as bad or worse!

Our blaster wasnt that fancy but it worked well. Dry Ice blasting is a bit of underrated tech albeit its becoming more and more mainstream.

It is very underrated. We stopped offering it to the public. The running cost of that setup (not to mention the capital it took to kit up) is $1.50 a minute not including the operator! It’s two days labor to fully clean a 911. People seem to thing $2g is a fair price when they enquire. when the real price is 2-3x that.

That’s why we shut it down. I’d rather sit on the equipment than struggle to keep it profitable AND listen to the noise.

When we see it we are only going to use it for in house projects.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Dude, old school speed wrenches is the bees knees.

Agreed homie. Love my old school NLA stuff.

 

[zmotorsports]

@olsenmotorsports I also have both a 90-degree and 45-degree air drills, but mine are of the Ingersol Rand flavor and quite old now. I purchased them in like new condition about 35 years ago at an estate sale. The gentleman was an A&E mechanic, and I find myself using them quite extensively. They are unparalleled when access is so limited. The threaded bits can be a bit pricey though, especially in various different lengths. I was fortunate to snag a "lot" sale on eBay for a box of them about 10 years ago so I feel I am pretty well stocked for a while now.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

@olsenmotorsports I also have both a 90-degree and 45-degree air drills, but mine are of the Ingersol Rand flavor and quite old now. I purchased them in like new condition about 35 years ago at an estate sale. The gentleman was an A&E mechanic, and I find myself using them quite extensively. They are unparalleled when access is so limited. The threaded bits can be a bit pricey though, especially in various different lengths. I was fortunate to snag a "lot" sale on eBay for a box of them about 10 years ago so I feel I am pretty well stocked for a while now.

Love it!

I have never had the luxury of a 45 degree so I am excited to try it out. I am not going to lie the body is so bulky it is annoying (once again I hate battery drills for that reason) so I am not sure I am going to love it.

Your EBay story sounds like a score I got a couple years ago. Small machine shop went out of business when the owner retired. He was selling out piece by piece. I missed the lathe and mill, however I did score 90% of his tooling/cutters etc for a fraction of what it would have cost me. I bought it all, and then the machinery a year or so later.

Sometimes when deals like that come up you have no choice but to snag it! At least that is what I tell myself to make me feel better about it

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Finishing up the engine tear down on the 993. It needed to be in an uber on its way to LN Engineering by 3pm. Still needed to get stripped the rest of the way, the rest of the studs out, the case split and everything cleaned up. Was able to execute it while the one of the other techs finished stripping the tub. (Which got done too).


First up head studs - I used to struggle with these before I found the “recipe”, now it’s less than 10 minutes per side. Including pulling the circling and jugs.


The key here is get some heat in every hole working quickly. Then while it’s still hot spray some Wurth HHS into the hole, let them all sit for 3-4 minutes. Then start getting after it.



I set myself up a little production line here. The 3/8 black gun on the left is set to reverse (it is the strongest cordless one I have) and the green one is set to forward. That way I can save a few seconds as well as momentum in movements not having to switch directions on the gun.


I use the green gun to spin down the CJ500 collet till there is enough engagement



Then I use an 1 1/8 wrench to hold the collet, slap the bolt home with my 3/8 air. Use the wrench to break the stud loose a 1/2 turn, back in a 1/4 turn, then back out an 1/8 turn. This helps break the loctite loose and get it moving.



Then I use the 3/8 gun set to reverse, I basically clutch drop it and slam it on the collect while it is spinning to get the thing moving. Comes right out. Then back to the 3/8 air to undo the collet



Then back to the 3/8 electric to remove the stud from the collet. I know that sounds like a lot, but when you have almost 100 studs to remove it takes an hour and half vs all day.



Then it was on to the fan. These can be an absolute B**** to remove. Service data says to remove the alternator from the housing. Place it on a block of wood and hit it with another block of wood. Can’t make that up lol. It is MAG so it is super fragile (hence the wood I guess? I use an air hammer instead.



use a little map gas on the bearing after you have cleaned the shaft up. Then I take the air hammer with a straight punch and hit the side of the bearing (this part is steel and gets replaced). I only do it at full soft setting of the hammers just using the vibration on the lowest setting to get it moving while I pull on it. Works like a champ every single time.

All that is left is to clean….

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Last part was to split the case in two



I grabbed my case spreader. Handy bit of kit. The old way was pound on the case with dead blows or wood till it cracked the sealant. Was a pain and not very productive. This jig threads into the head stud holes and then the screw provides upward pressure to pull the case apart. Easy and quick.



Once you are there it’s 3 bolts and everything lifts out.



Off to clean. Knocked the oil off - then into the Magido to blast the gunk off - then ultra sonic.



Here she is ready for the machine shop. It is clean enough from them. Has some surface corrosion on the case, but we will treat that with the vapor blaster once it comes back.



Also got the cylinder heads cleaned up and all done.





The front trunk is stripped - engine bay - all the suspension and interior - and engine. All done in three days. Guys work really fast

Tomorrow all they have to do is remove the convertible top frame - and clean the rest of the car up, and tape off all the stuff so it doesn’t get overspray.

Remember this car drove in on Tuesday morning!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Update on the 964 C2 I took apart last week. Got some updates from paint.



It has a fair amount (saying lightly) of Bondo on it. They are going to get it stripped to bare metal by tomorrow EOD so we can assess. I might have to go get it and bring it back to use for some metal work. The body shop can do it, but when it comes to patches my guys are far superior than anyone at that. Probably makes more sense to do it that way



The rear right quarter is also going to need some PDR. I just cant refill it with bondo - gotta look brand new in 20 years from now!

 

[Scuderia-F1]

Finishing up the engine tear down on the 993. It needed to be in an uber on its way to LN Engineering by 3pm. Still needed to get stripped the rest of the way, the rest of the studs out, the case split and everything cleaned up. Was able to execute it while the one of the other techs finished stripping the tub. (Which got done too).


First up head studs - I used to struggle with these before I found the “recipe”, now it’s less than 10 minutes per side. Including pulling the circling and jugs.


The key here is get some heat in every hole working quickly. Then while it’s still hot spray some Wurth HHS into the hole, let them all sit for 3-4 minutes. Then start getting after it.



I set myself up a little production line here. The 3/8 black gun on the left is set to reverse (it is the strongest cordless one I have) and the green one is set to forward. That way I can save a few seconds as well as momentum in movements not having to switch directions on the gun.


I use the green gun to spin down the CJ500 collet till there is enough engagement



Then I use an 1 1/8 wrench to hold the collet, slap the bolt home with my 3/8 air. Use the wrench to break the stud loose a 1/2 turn, back in a 1/4 turn, then back out an 1/8 turn. This helps break the loctite loose and get it moving.



Then I use the 3/8 gun set to reverse, I basically clutch drop it and slam it on the collect while it is spinning to get the thing moving. Comes right out. Then back to the 3/8 air to undo the collet



Then back to the 3/8 electric to remove the stud from the collet. I know that sounds like a lot, but when you have almost 100 studs to remove it takes an hour and half vs all day.



Then it was on to the fan. These can be an absolute B**** to remove. Service data says to remove the alternator from the housing. Place it on a block of wood and hit it with another block of wood. Can’t make that up lol. It is MAG so it is super fragile (hence the wood I guess? I use an air hammer instead.



use a little map gas on the bearing after you have cleaned the shaft up. Then I take the air hammer with a straight punch and hit the side of the bearing (this part is steel and gets replaced). I only do it at full soft setting of the hammers just using the vibration on the lowest setting to get it moving while I pull on it. Works like a champ every single time.

All that is left is to clean….

This right here is exactly why I don’t even bother talking to dudes that questions me about why I have THE BEST relationship with my Snapp-on dude (I’ve done business with the same guy since 1997 when he started out, when I’ve lived abroad working for teams I’ve had him ship stuff out to me). There’s no such thing as too much kit, multiples are essential. When you have that relationship you don’t have to ask for deals. Take care of your associates and your associates will take care of you.

That case spreader is a must have.
Truly enjoyable pics Tim, would love to see more LENGTHY YouTube stuff of this. You really have no excuse, since you have media staff on payroll.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

This right here is exactly why I don’t even bother talking to dudes that questions me about why I have THE BEST relationship with my Snapp-on dude (I’ve done business with the same guy since 1997 when he started out, when I’ve lived abroad working for teams I’ve had him ship stuff out to me). There’s no such thing as too much kit, multiples are essential. When you have that relationship you don’t have to ask for deals. Take care of your associates and your associates will take care of you.

That case spreader is a must have.
Truly enjoyable pics Tim, would love to see more LENGTHY YouTube stuff of this. You really have no excuse, since you have media staff on payroll.

I couldn’t agree more bro. There are a lot of tool companies now that are 75-80% as good as snap-on, for half the price (sometimes more). There is value in that for sure if saving money is your thing. I’m different I guess as I personally DGAF about saving money, only making it. So for me the convenience of snap-on, their warranty support and service etc is a great support system for me as I do not have to leave. Or waste time shipping/filling out warranty claims etc. if I break something my guy literally has it in an uber if I’m in a rush immediately and I’ve got it. There is something to say about that.

I started my career with husky as that is all I could afford. If I had stayed with the husky mindset I can guarantee you my life today would be much much different. I’m extremely grateful for my decisions to buy the best money could attain (whatever it is)

 

[olsenmotorsports]

That case spreader is a must have.
Truly enjoyable pics Tim, would love to see more LENGTHY YouTube stuff of this. You really have no excuse, since you have media staff on payroll.

Do you have one of those? STOMSKI makes it.

So YouTube I thought that was going to be our jam. Diagnosing things, tips and tricks etc. turns out I was the only one that thought that. Those videos do horrible. So it’s off the table

 

[zmotorsports]

I have never had the luxury of a 45 degree so I am excited to try it out. I am not going to lie the body is so bulky it is annoying (once again I hate battery drills for that reason) so I am not sure I am going to love it.

Tim, although both my 90-degree and my 45-degree are pneumatics, so the bodies are similar in size, I find myself seldom using the 45-degree. It is almost the 90-degree I grab exclusively. I'll have to grab a couple of pics, but the wear difference is very evident which one gets used the most.

There are a lot of tool companies now that are 75-80% as good as snap-on, for half the price (sometimes more). There is value in that for sure if saving money is your thing. I’m different I guess as I personally DGAF about saving money, only making it. So for me the convenience of snap-on, their warranty support and service etc is a great support system for me as I do not have to leave. Or waste time shipping/filling out warranty claims etc. if I break something my guy literally has it in an uber if I’m in a rush immediately and I’ve got it. There is something to say about that.

I started my career with husky as that is all I could afford. If I had stayed with the husky mindset I can guarantee you my life today would be much much different. I’m extremely grateful for my decisions to buy the best money could attain (whatever it is)

Similar story here Tim. I started my career back in the late 80's with Craftsman tools and then slowly upgraded to Snap-on, MAC, Matco, Cornwell over time. When I first started out, I had a pretty good Snap-on dealer, but great MAC, Matco and Cornwell dealers so I spread the love around and purchased various tools based on what I felt when I held the tool in my hand. Then around early-2000's I got a really good Snap-on dealer. It was actually a friend from High School who was a couple years ahead of me. I bought a LOT of Snap-on tools between about 2000 and 2006 when he went out of business. Just as he was shutting down his dealership, he made me a really good deal on my Snap-on KRL Master Series toolbox, otherwise I don't know that I would have been able to swing it. It was still a pretty penny, but it was too good a deal to pass up so I call it his "going away" gift to me.

After that we had several Snap-on dealers within about 4 or 5 years and none of them were worth the ****. Then we got our current dealer and he is freakin' awesome. Probably the best tool dealer I've had during my entire 36+ year career. I feel bad that I don't buy as many tools from him because my shop is already pretty well outfitted and I really don't need much these days. However, he warrantees any of my tools without question, so when I do in fact need to buy tools, I don't even look elsewhere and just buy them from him. I feel he takes care of me so when I need something he is my "go to" guy and I try to take care of him.

Like today, I have a soft face dead blow that I have had for 30+ years that came apart and when I text him the other night he said "no problem, I'll warranty it for ya". Customer service like that is hard to beat so when I need something I make one call, that's all.

 

[Scuderia-F1]

Do you have one of those? STOMSKI makes it.

So YouTube I thought that was going to be our jam. Diagnosing things, tips and tricks etc. turns out I was the only one that thought that. Those videos do horrible. So it’s off the table

I really LOVED the lengthy geekstuff you did.
No I don’t have the Stomski kit. Will add it tho. They do some great stuff.