One year later 40'x80'

[Steve from Socal]

Very nice shop, work and equipment. I really like the dump trailer; a question on it, does it have supports for the back when dumping?

Steve

 

[fnieto]

Very nice shop, work and equipment. I really like the dump trailer; a question on it, does it have supports for the back when dumping?

Steve

Thank you, supports for what? The doors are held open when dumping if that what your asking.

 

[zmotorsports]

The handles turned out great Paco. I've been thinking about doing something very similar with my lathe, I just can't seem to find the time.

Mike.

 

[fnieto]

Thanks Mike,
I seem to be using the 5C system a lot these days. I can't believe I went so long with out (15 yrs). Did you ever buy a 5C scroll chuck?
Finding the time to replace/upgrade a functioning machine is tricky, but once your done, its worth every once of effort.

I need to PM you soon as I need information on the "clunk" in the steering column (under dash) on the 05 Dmax.
Take care Mike,
Paco

 

[A_Pmech]

Paco,

Your threading stop with proximity sensor looks good! I'miss curious though, how are you stopping the lead screw when you reach the stop?

 

[Steve from Socal]

Thank you, supports for what? The doors are held open when dumping if that what your asking.

Support for the back of the trailer frame, when the bed is raised the weight shift wants to unload the tongue of the trailer. My trailers with ramps have bases that rotate down to support the back of the trailer when loading. Example; I am driving a scissor lift onto the trailer, without the supports the back of the trailer now has 6K Lbs bearing on the back edge of the trailer.

In looking at the pictures of your dump trailer, what keeps the tongue from lifting the back of the truck when you dump?

Steve

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks Mike,
I seem to be using the 5C system a lot these days. I can't believe I went so long with out (15 yrs). Did you ever buy a 5C scroll chuck?
Finding the time to replace/upgrade a functioning machine is tricky, but once your done, its worth every once of effort.

I need to PM you soon as I need information on the "clunk" in the steering column (under dash) on the 05 Dmax.
Take care Mike,
Paco

Paco, still haven't purchased a 5C collet yet. Procrastinating I guess. I've been trying to locate an aircraft positioner so that is what I have been keeping my eye open for. Missed one just like I was looking for on eBay the other day because I was too late. Oh well, that's how it goes I guess.

Mike.

 

[fnieto]

Paco,

Your threading stop with proximity sensor looks good! I'miss curious though, how are you stopping the lead screw when you reach the stop?

Hi,
The lathe's new control system works inconjunction with new motor and VFD.
The proximity sensor shuts down and brakes the motor with two braking options.
A micro toggle switch allows for 1 second braking or 3-5 second braking. The repeatability on the proximity sensor is .00019 (DRO) but mostly .00000. Once machine stops after a threading pass, I simply back out (cross feed), push a momentary by-pass button and reverse the spindle. Once the carriage is farther than 3mm, I release the by-pass and run the carriage back to starting position.
Rinse and repete for a perfect thread cut with no worries of crashing. There is a safety back up micro switch incorporated into the carriage stop incase the proximity sensor fails. If this happens the motor braking defaults to E-stop (1 second). A large brake resistor is used for motor braking protecting the VFD from over voltage. The wall enclosure houses the VFD,brake resistor,fuse block,240 v 3ph breaker (flood coolant pump), disconnect and 24 volt power supply that runs the new lighting and controls. The brake resistor is visible under the fuse block and breakers/disconnect stand offs and to the right of the VFD.
In the second photo, the control panel shows (left to right) Speed pot (10 fold speed options with constant HP/torque), lit jog button (set at 20Hz for slow RPM), lit E-stop, lit flood coolant pump (only runs while spindle is running),and the large black by-pass momentary button. If you look closely, the two position micro toggle is located just beneath by-pass. Set to the left = 1 second braking or to the right = 2-5 second braking.The lower lever knob is partly covering the toggle at this photo angle. All this was made possible by a friend who designs the system. My job was to retrofit. Its amazing how much better the threading preforms at 300+ RPM. I used to preform threading operations less than 100 RPM's. The finish cut quality is much better at 300 and fast as hell.
I hope this answered you question.

 

[fnieto]

Support for the back of the trailer frame, when the bed is raised the weight shift wants to unload the tongue of the trailer. My trailers with ramps have bases that rotate down to support the back of the trailer when loading. Example; I am driving a scissor lift onto the trailer, without the supports the back of the trailer now has 6K Lbs bearing on the back edge of the trailer.

In looking at the pictures of your dump trailer, what keeps the tongue from lifting the back of the truck when you dump?

Steve

I understand your question now. No jacks or outriggers required as the location of the axels makes for a balanced load or unloaded for that matter. The trailer can be raised empty and un-hitched without tongue rise . Its imperative to locate the axels in the correct position to prevent the tongue from becoming too light but not too heavy. The pivot point are located at the end of the frame not too far from the rear most axel. The box extends past about 24" but the break over point remains. The trailer pulls straight at 70-75 MPH fully loaded or empty.
Loading a equipment trailer is much different than unloading a dump trailer. Unloading a dump trailer transfers weight quickly and continuous. I have loaded a Cat skid loader (10K+ lbs) onto trailer with little bit of tongue rise but that goes away pretty quick once I'm over the rear most axel.

 

[fnieto]

Paco, still haven't purchased a 5C collet yet. Procrastinating I guess. I've been trying to locate an aircraft positioner so that is what I have been keeping my eye open for. Missed one just like I was looking for on eBay the other day because I was too late. Oh well, that's how it goes I guess.

Mike.

Mike, I bet you'll use the 5C chuck way more than the aircraft positioner. I'm still looking for an 8" rotary table/chuck.
I purchased an 8" Bison 4 jaw scroll chuck with fine independent jaw adjustment, a real fine chuck but the 5C has yet to come off since the spider build.
Take care Mike,
Paco

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, I bet you'll use the 5C chuck way more than the aircraft positioner. I'm still looking for an 8" rotary table/chuck.
I purchased an 8" Bison 4 jaw scroll chuck with fine independent jaw adjustment, a real fine chuck but the 5C has yet to come off since the spider build.
Take care Mike,
Paco

Thanks Paco. Please remind me again, did you end up purchasing the Bison 5C chuck? Did you go with the direct mount or have to get an independent backing plate? Set-tru style?

Sorry, I know I asked you before but I have talked to so many people about 5C chucks I can't remember.

Thanks.

Mike.

 

[fnieto]

Mike,
the 5C chuck was purchased via eBay with a independent backing plate and it is a set-tru style around $350-400. I think I sent you a link via PM in the HM forum. If you no longer have the PM, let me know and I will resend it. For the money, this thing kicks *** with minimal run out after set-tru fine tuning. I remember it to be less than 2 tenth on the indicator. A friend has the Bison version with the same runout but his looks way cooler than mine.
You can see the static reading in the first photo vs the dynamic reading in the second photo. Its about a needles width on a .0005 Best test indicator. As you know, its how well you register the back plate as well as the set-tru feature.
I will add the entire chucks outside surface had a slight wobble but was "tuned-up" to spin true, the business end was already true.
Let me know if you need the link again.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike,
the 5C chuck was purchased via eBay with a independent backing plate and it is a set-tru style around $350-400. I think I sent you a link via PM in the HM forum. If you no longer have the PM, let me know and I will resend it. For the money, this thing kicks *** with minimal run out after set-tru fine tuning. I remember it to be less than 2 tenth on the indicator. A friend has the Bison version with the same runout but his looks way cooler than mine.
You can see the static reading in the first photo vs the dynamic reading in the second photo. Its about a needles width on a .0005 Best test indicator. As you know, its how well you register the back plate as well as the set-tru feature.
I will add the entire chucks outside surface had a slight wobble but was "tuned-up" to spin true, the business end was already true.
Let me know if you need the link again.

Thanks for the info Paco. I just found the link that you sent me and will be looking into it again. I still want an aircraft positioner pretty badly though. I've been welding a lot of suspension links lately and a positioner would be awesome. But then again, you know how it is, once I get the positioner that work will dry up.

Mike.

 

[zmotorsports]

Ok Paco, I bit the bullet today and ordered the Lathemaster 5C chuck as per the link you sent me earlier.

I sure hope I don't run across an aircraft positioner at least for a month or so until I get my tool fund built back up, or I will have to ask the wifey for a loan.

Mike.

 

[fnieto]

Mike,
Your gonna realize you should have got it sooner hehehe.
Have you considered building your own positioner? Depending on the size your after, this could be a neat project and you have the shop and skill.

Back in the day when I worked for a shop, we built a large roller type positioner capable of turning large rolled formed tanks down to 6" pipe. We used a reduction gear box and speed control. With the new technology, a guy could use a DC motor (tread mill) and really control the speed. An 8" chuck would probably be a great size with a through hole spindle set up. They are nice to have for sure.
Let me know what you think of the lathemaster scroll chuck.
I married a loan officer too hahah.
Take it easy Mike

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike,
Your gonna realize you should have got it sooner hehehe.
Have you considered building your own positioner? Depending on the size your after, this could be a neat project and you have the shop and skill.

Back in the day when I worked for a shop, we built a large roller type positioner capable of turning large rolled formed tanks down to 6" pipe. We used a reduction gear box and speed control. With the new technology, a guy could use a DC motor (tread mill) and really control the speed. An 8" chuck would probably be a great size with a through hole spindle set up. They are nice to have for sure.
Let me know what you think of the lathemaster scroll chuck.
I married a loan officer too hahah.
Take it easy Mike

Thanks Paco. Yes I have considered building a positioner, however, with the limited time I have as it is I have just been looking to purchase a good used one, although they don't come up very often.

My wife tells me that maybe it is time to slow down doing customer jobs and do some jobs that I want to do instead. Who knows, maybe she is right (don't tell her I said that).

Mike.

 

[fnieto]

Support table for Bender,profile roller and iron worker.
Built from remnants with exception of castors.
Overall dimensions (top) 32"X48". Hight determined by tool block on iron worker.
Back round, Tooling has become heavy as my years advance and I already have two bulged discs on lower back. A back injury is never welcomed so I decided to prevent as much as possible. Notched angle cross members on iron worker for a flush fit to support expanded metal shelf. also designed an indexing feature that would prevent the table from sliding during heavy tooling swap over.

 

[fnieto]

next up was the support pins that hold the pipe dies. Used 3" channel with the flanges in. The pins where turned from an old hydraulic cylinder shaft drill/tapped 1/2"-13 x 2". The table top was cut and a 5" flap wheel used to create a radius all the way around the edge. Angle clips interlock with the inside frame work and where tack welded for a snug fit allowing the top to be removable by lifting straight up. A push bar was made from 1" x 12 gauge round tubing. Laid out for knurling and bending.

 

[fnieto]

The handle was bent,cut and welded so the top of the bar would be at the same elevation of the top surface of the table.

 

[fnieto]

Tooling swap made easy. The break die now slides into place as well as the punch tooling.
The mating surfaced on the table top and tool block are close to perfect with no hesitation noted when transitioning from table to machine and vice versa.Once the tooling in in place, simply unlock the castors and pull straight back to unlock the indexer and the tooling remains on machine.
The other two machines that share this table.
Overall, one of my better back savers. I hope this can help someone out with similar issues.
Thanks for looking and take care.
Paco

 

[zmotorsports]

Paco, AWESOME looking support cart and very nice machinery.

Mike.

 

[cat06]

you have a very nice well equipped shop, something to be proud of!!

 

[fnieto]

Thanks Mike and cat06,
Many of the machines are from the 90's but look and preform like newer machines. I take the time to keep them clean and serviced as I could not afford to replace them on a whim.
In the near future, I plan on building a lathe tooling support table/cart for efficiency.
Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

[livetoride21]

Amazing shop! Almost drooling looking through all your photos. Also love the custom touches!

 

[fnieto]

Amazing shop! Almost drooling looking through all your photos. Also love the custom touches!

Thank you, its been a couple of years since I stared working in the new shop, but still have a way to go to complete the custom touches. Funny, as we age we find ways to make life easier while working around heavy tooling.

 

[fnieto]

Built this 3 ton arbor press stand for a friend. Like many, his shop is also his garage so space is limited. Besides keeping the stands footprint small, another factor was to use as much scrap steel as possible to keep the build free. The base plate is 1/4"x8"x18" and profiled around the base of the press. 3/8" flat bar was used on the underside to keep the base plate flat as possible and add rigidity. The 1.5" square tubing (legs) where cut to 15º and are 14 gauge. Castor flanges where sheared and punched on the iron worker.
The 3/8"x1" flat bar used was hot rolled with semi rounded edges that would not sit flat and square. They where clamped together and face milled .050" to produce a flat surface for beefing up base plate from the underside. All bolt nuts where welded as capture nut eliminating the need for a backer wrench. The stand rolls smoothly and maneuvers well, but with the small foot print, I was concerned about tipping while pulling the lever for max pressing. A outrigger was added for stability. The same receiver secures the outrigger vertically reverting to a compact footprint when the unit is stowed.

 

[fnieto]

Here is the unit with the outrigger in place for maximum pressing without fear of tipping over. Second photo shows the outrigger in the stowed vertical position. The lower angle iron shelf will hold any tooling he builds for different pressing operations and also serves to stiffen the legs for an overall rigid set up.
Thanks for looking.

 

[zmotorsports]

Great job Paco. I love seeing your shop and drooling over it. I just get to see it on both forums and drool twice as much.

Mike.

 

[Mike.ASC]

Nice work sir.

 

[BloodSweatMotorwerks]

love the Sierra, maybe I missed it but what are the stats on that rig?

 

[fnieto]

Thanks Mike, your always a gentleman.
Thank you Mike.ASC

BloodSweat,
The Sierra 2500HD is an 05 Duramax LLY/Alison, it had a 6" Fabtech lift. I have added a full Denali touch screen nav,6 cd changer and Denali Bose amp. It required re-pinning 23 wires and running 13 new wires including sat antenna. It seems any GMC of that year that came with a Bose premium package has a 10" woofer under the center console that was only used in a Denali or Cadillac Escalade. After the harness modification and upgraded amp the system came alive. It does require a visit to the dealer for vin programming to make it work.

Engine work; Superchips program,cold air (AFE) intake, 4" turbo back exhaust (AFE), EGR blocking plate, "finger stick" and propane injection by MSD. The oil remains the color of honey between oil changes thanks to the EGR blocking plate and "finger stick" (basically resistors that fool the computer to keep the EGR valve and MAF happy).
She produced 620 HP and 630 ft of torque (Dyno) with the propane injection and Superchips programed in performance mode. I also installed a pre fuel filter (2 micron) to supplement the current filter.

Body and chassis; Custom built rear bumper with tire carrier (drops to the ground) and projection headlights,fog lights with HID. She currently has 80K and is mostly kept in tow (programming) and only used to pull a tailor full of steel for shop work. she also has Amp Research folding running boards as Im sawed off at 65.5"

A very comfortable driver and is always a toss up between taking a road trip in the 430GS or the "Cracker" as I affectionally refer to her. She gives me 20-21 MPG on the highway if I keep her under 2K RPM (70-74 MPH).
I have done all the mods myself and have service/tech manuals for entire truck.
Thats the story on the Sierra....

 

[BloodSweatMotorwerks]

Nice! Have any more pics?

Mines an 03 1500hd crew cab quadrasteer. Love it. Did the non lux touchscreen swap in mine, just the deck made it sound better and I already had the sub. Debating on a lift, either 4" or 6", not sure what brand. I like how yours sits so I was curious how much lift and what size tires.

Thanks! Beautiful shop too!

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks Mike, your always a gentleman.
Thank you Mike.ASC

BloodSweat,
The Sierra 2500HD is an 05 Duramax LLY/Alison, it had a 6" Fabtech lift. I have added a full Denali touch screen nav,6 cd changer and Denali Bose amp. It required re-pinning 23 wires and running 13 new wires including sat antenna. It seems any GMC of that year that came with a Bose premium package has a 10" woofer under the center console that was only used in a Denali or Cadillac Escalade. After the harness modification and upgraded amp the system came alive. It does require a visit to the dealer for vin programming to make it work.

Engine work; Superchips program,cold air (AFE) intake, 4" turbo back exhaust (AFE), EGR blocking plate, "finger stick" and propane injection by MSD. The oil remains the color of honey between oil changes thanks to the EGR blocking plate and "finger stick" (basically resistors that fool the computer to keep the EGR valve and MAF happy).
She produced 620 HP and 630 ft of torque (Dyno) with the propane injection and Superchips programed in performance mode. I also installed a pre fuel filter (2 micron) to supplement the current filter.

Body and chassis; Custom built rear bumper with tire carrier (drops to the ground) and projection headlights,fog lights with HID. She currently has 80K and is mostly kept in tow (programming) and only used to pull a tailor full of steel for shop work. she also has Amp Research folding running boards as Im sawed off at 65.5"

A very comfortable driver and is always a toss up between taking a road trip in the 430GS or the "Cracker" as I affectionally refer to her. She gives me 20-21 MPG on the highway if I keep her under 2K RPM (70-74 MPH).
I have done all the mods myself and have service/tech manuals for entire truck.
Thats the story on the Sierra....

Nice mods Paco. Sounds quite similar to what I have done to my 2006 D-Max less the propane injection. I purchased mine with 58k miles on it and the first things I did besides the 6" RCD lift and tires/wheels was the EGR blockoff with finger stick and PCV re-route. Oil stays quite clean like you mentioned, at least for a diesel. I love driving my truck but don't drive it much, she is usually parked in the shop staying clean and beautiful unless I have something on the lift. I have owned it since 2009 and it barely has 85k miles on it now. Maybe I need to drive it more, but the Jeep or the new CVO are also so much fun to drive. Guess it is a good problem to have huh.

Mike.

 

[fnieto]

Mike, tell me more about the PVC re-route.

Oh, I forgot to mention the onboard compressor and locomotive horn (153 decibels hehe) triggers by a foot switch to the right of the accelerator. A pillar post has EGT, air pressure, and propane guage.
I used to run 20" wheels but after buying two set of BFG's, I went to 18" as the rubber is almost 1/2 price. Sound like you and I reserve our rigs for tow work and play.
BYW, I like your dresser. I have a 99 Road glide, 95 Bad boy,and a stroked 86 883 (1200).
Have not ridden since last fall. Too damn hot this time of the year.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, tell me more about the PVC re-route.

Oh, I forgot to mention the onboard compressor and locomotive horn (153 decibels hehe) triggers by a foot switch to the right of the accelerator. A pillar post has EGT, air pressure, and propane guage.
I used to run 20" wheels but after buying two set of BFG's, I went to 18" as the rubber is almost 1/2 price. Sound like you and I reserve our rigs for tow work and play.
BYW, I like your dresser. I have a 99 Road glide, 95 Bad boy,and a stroked 86 883 (1200).
Have not ridden since last fall. Too damn hot this time of the year.

Sounds like some cool rides. I reduced my stable of bikes a few weeks ago by selling my 2010 Wide Glide and 2004 Ultra Classic and replacing with the new to me 2010 Ultra CVO. Love the bike, been riding it quite a bit over the past couple of weeks of owning it. On the lift now torn apart doing fluids and a few upgrades.

As for the PCV reroute, I merely purchased a kit from Alligator Performance, if memory serves it was like $70 or so and converted it to the old style of road draft vs. into the air intake. I had to keep it hidden as we have emissions testing here and if anything is noticed to be altered the vehicle fails. I also cut the OEM wire loom harness and soldered the fingerstick in and then sealed up the loom to make it undetectable to even the most trained eyes.

I almost went with 18" tires/wheels but I don't put enough miles on it to make that big of a difference. I liked the somewhat less sidewalls on the tires as when towing our large and heavy race trailer the truck was rock solid going down the road unlike my previous truck running on 16" wheels. I feel the shorter sidewalls aid in stability but between the 18" and 20" I bet it would be negligible.

Mike.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Just checking in....

Fantastic job on the stand fnieto

Regards

 

[fnieto]

Thanks for the info on the PVC re-route Mike. I also have emissions to contend with so all is clean and hidden as well. You would like my "catalytic converter"solution. I need to look up the CVO, not familiar with that.

Hi 1/2 cup, hows the beginning of winter treating you sir? BTW, you where the first to welcome me to the GJ.....

 

[1/2 Cup]

fnieto thank you and its always a pleasure to drop by and see what you are up to.

Our winters are certainly not as cold as you guys have them, for the most part the snow stays up in the hills ( where it belongs IMHO ). That said our overnight temperatures have been down to and at times below freezing. The last week has been wet, windy, overcast and cold with the day time temperatures just into the 40 F range. Yesterday there was no cloud but a heavy frost and it tuned out to be a rather pleasant day reaching the low 50 F.

Keep up the great work.

Regards

 

[BloodSweatMotorwerks]

My 03 had 54k on it when I bought it last year, has just over 60k currently. It doesn't see winter and it's so hard to not drive it, as nice as it is. I'd like diesel swap it or turbo the 6.0 for a little more towing power.

You guys have build links or pics? fnieto, I'd love to see pics of yours with all of your custom mods. Thinking about making a rear bumper for mine as the quadrasteer has led to a few dings in the stock bumper. I'm also looking at the same running boards.

 

[fnieto]

My 03 had 54k on it when I bought it last year, has just over 60k currently. It doesn't see winter and it's so hard to not drive it, as nice as it is. I'd like diesel swap it or turbo the 6.0 for a little more towing power.

You guys have build links or pics? fnieto, I'd love to see pics of yours with all of your custom mods. Thinking about making a rear bumper for mine as the quadrasteer has led to a few dings in the stock bumper. I'm also looking at the same running boards.

The engine mods are not to obvious other than cold air intake. Like Mike mentioned, our rigs required emission testing/inspection. Most of the performance comes from "software" these days an any emission tampering is kept so discreet that even a dealer tech would have to work hard finding the modifications. You'll like the Amp research running boards. Keep them clean and lubed and you won't have issues.