What kind of lube do you generally use on your Amp steps? Which locations do you find need lube? Best mod I ever added to my truck.
Love the thread, keep posting!
One year later 40'x80'
- Thread starter fnieto
- Start date
What kind of lube do you generally use on your Amp steps? Which locations do you find need lube? Best mod I ever added to my truck.
Love the thread, keep posting!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I can't speak for Paco, but on my Amp Research power steps I put a few drops of SiliKroil at the pivot points every few months. Other than that no real maintenance, they just operate nice and quiet and smooth.
Maybe Paco will chime in with something different that he does on his.
Mike.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Well done. Thanks for sharing all this. I'm still in planning stages. Would you mind sharing more on your slab and prep? Engineered for this structure and use? I noted you said the drain was rated for forklift use.
Hi,
I use a white lithium grease in a rattle can with a straw attached after degreasing. Usually after driving in prolong rain conditions. The fine road grime has a way of finding its way into pivot point pins. Once in a while, I'll have to pick out a small stones that will prevent step from completely collapsing. Any lube will do so long as its used. The white lithium seems to create a better barrier for the fine grime. I usually do a complete chassis inspection when the truck is on lift during oil and lube maintenance. One of the things that can prevent a step from deploying is a sticky striker latch at each of the four doors.
On my GMC, the interior light circuit switch is in the said striker latch which is where the power is controlled to the steps. 11 years and going strong.
The entire building was engineered by the manufacture as per my county requirements. The slab required engineering by a local engineer with stamp.
The foundation prep required importation of AB soil and compact. The perimeter footers where 24" deep x 12" wide with #4 rebar. The piers for the columns where 5'-9" x 5'-9 x 30" (10 total) with a grid of #4 rebar 12" OC. Hair pins where also required on all piers as well. I also used re-mesh steel and fiber reinforced 3000 psi concrete at 5" thick. We had two or three bad monsoon storms prior to the pour so the footers ended up taking extra concrete as a result of cleaning out the footers. Have more cracks than I would have liked, but no heaving has been noticed in three years. The trench drain the runs along the front of the building controls the the heavy rain coming off the two scuppers from the house side. I drive a 5K rated forklift so the trench drain was designed for heavy crossing and required two pours to complete. So far so good and all the water goes into a 70' leach field 60" under ground.
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bluedog225
Well-known member
Great info. Thanks!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The door switch in my driver's door and the passenger side rear door are being finicky. I think I am going to replace them as I almost biffed it the other day going to get out of my truck and the step didn't extend.
Wife thought that was pretty funny seeing my hop, skip and jumping trying not to fall on my face.My rear passenger side door I was able to "tweak" the strike plate enough so that the switch will activate when the door is opened but the driver's door is frustrating me so I think I am going to merely replace it when I get time.
Mike.
Mike, those switches get gummed up over time. Might try some WD-40 and shop air to clean and loosen up, then re-lube for propper function. I hate removing the door panels on newer vehicles as they get brittle (I also hate squeaks). Being short and old, I need the step for egress Hahaha. I hate to lose work for a rolled ankle and save the embarrassment of explaining that one. Give it a shot, hopefully it works out.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Paco, that is why I think I am going to replace my two that are acting up. I have cleaned and re-lubed them multiple times now over the past couple of years and they work very short term. I have even adjusted them to aid in the angle in which the striker leaves the latch but again, that solution seems to be short term. I believe the contacts in my switches are heading south so time for new ones.
Mike.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Paco, that turned out awesome. Great job.
Mike.
Mike.
Also unloaded a new mill. The mill belongs to a friend who lives in a gated community with no access for a 40' flat bed. His drive way is extremely sloped with tight access. I will be fabricating a rolling base with leveling feet allowing us to move the mill in. A drop deck trailer will be used for delivery and then roll machine in, locate and level.
More on the mill, she weighs 2,222 lb. and came with table power feed, knee feed and variable motor speed control via VFD. We will also install DRO while she lives in the shop for the next few weeks. Check out the "frosting" (scraping) in the last photo of the table.....Beautiful!
More on the mill, she weighs 2,222 lb. and came with table power feed, knee feed and variable motor speed control via VFD. We will also install DRO while she lives in the shop for the next few weeks. Check out the "frosting" (scraping) in the last photo of the table.....Beautiful!
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
fnieto, the mill looks a treat, absolutely stunning.
Regards
Regards
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That is a nice looking mill Paco. I'm sure your friend is grateful you have a forklift and the ability to unload that beast for him.
Mike.
Mike.
Caparris
Well-known member
Consider me jealous!
(of the build in general... and all the toys you have... and the new mill of your buddies)
(of the build in general... and all the toys you have... and the new mill of your buddies)
Hi Mike,
The mill belongs to Mark Jacobs (mksj) from HM forum. As you well know, he's been such a helpful soul when it comes to building and advising on VFD control systems. The forklift has been an excellent investment. I always look forward to working along side of Mark, and this project should be just as exciting.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome. That should be a welcomed addition to Mark's shop. What size mill is it? 9x49?
Mike.
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Wow, that's a nice shop, and love all the machinery.
/jealous
/jealous
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice. So just a tad larger than my 9x35. Should be same Y travel and about 3-4 inches more X travel is all. Sounds and looks like a great machine. I'm happy for him, should make for a nice addition.
Mike.
Caparris
Well-known member
That looks great!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Turned out great Paco. I think when I build my new lathe base I am going to use that Hammered effect paint. Looks nice.
Mike.
Mike.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks Paco. That is the one I was looking to go with. It will match most of the other "machinery gray" items in my shop. I used the Rustoleum machinery gray aerosol on several other items. I like the Rustoleum MRO paints as they are a high solids and cover nice.
Mike.
GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Subscribed 
Hi Mike,
I've never used the aerosol cans, but should be convenient. I buy the qt cans and thin with Xylene (eyeball) and use a 25+ year old HF HVLP. Best gun I have ever used (for non automotive) and I'v had sharp,DeVilbis and other more expensive guns, but the HF had been tuned and still shoots decent.
Got back last night from Las Vegas after five days of family reunion and nephews wedding so the party is over and time to get to work.
Mark's coming by on Thursday with some goodies for the mill. We plan on installing some electronics to make the machine more versatile. Also want to power it up, but I'll keep posting for the inquiring minds.
I've never used the aerosol cans, but should be convenient. I buy the qt cans and thin with Xylene (eyeball) and use a 25+ year old HF HVLP. Best gun I have ever used (for non automotive) and I'v had sharp,DeVilbis and other more expensive guns, but the HF had been tuned and still shoots decent.
Got back last night from Las Vegas after five days of family reunion and nephews wedding so the party is over and time to get to work.
Mark's coming by on Thursday with some goodies for the mill. We plan on installing some electronics to make the machine more versatile. Also want to power it up, but I'll keep posting for the inquiring minds.
Got some new toys installed on the mill. My buddy worked on the electronics and installed a choker/filter for the VFD. We powered up the mill and I could not believe how quiet the direct drive was at 4K RPM. While he was working on the electronics, I installed his new power draw bar. I have the same Torque-rite and love it. Tool change in seconds with a push of a button. Fabricated a simple aluminum bracket to mount the regulator/oiler. The Meehanite was a ***** to drill compared to other cast iron. Turned out nice and clean. The castors also came in so the rolling base is "on deck".
Thanks for looking.
Thanks for looking.
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A gentleman from another forum was kind enough to draft some PDF files for the arbor press stand. Any one interested in building one can use these as a guide. The length of the outrigger is dependent on the castors used. The main base plate can be substituted with a thicker plate eliminating the stiffeners.
Milling machine rolling base.
I completed the base yesterday (except primer/paint) afternoon. It turned out pretty good and rolls with moderate effort. The leveling feet work very nice and can be adjusted with a 8" crescent wrench.
The main frame is made of 3/8"x4"x4" angle. The castor plates are made of 3/8"x4" CR flat bar broken to 22.5º.
A small section of structural tube 1/4" x 3"x3" was cut to 45º allowing the cantilever castor plate to be parallel to the floor.
The same tube was used for the leveling feet brackets and a piece of 3/4" round bar was turned drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 for the leveling feet.
The iron worker took two bights to create the corner joints on the main frame. A transfer punch was turned on the lathe to index the machines mounting holes. These holes where drilled and tapped prior to welding avoiding the need to support the heavy frame.
The Mill was place onto a large cardboard creating a template to verify the mounting holes and allowing the edges of the machine to clear the large radius found on the inside corners of the angle frame.
I completed the base yesterday (except primer/paint) afternoon. It turned out pretty good and rolls with moderate effort. The leveling feet work very nice and can be adjusted with a 8" crescent wrench.
The main frame is made of 3/8"x4"x4" angle. The castor plates are made of 3/8"x4" CR flat bar broken to 22.5º.
A small section of structural tube 1/4" x 3"x3" was cut to 45º allowing the cantilever castor plate to be parallel to the floor.
The same tube was used for the leveling feet brackets and a piece of 3/4" round bar was turned drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 for the leveling feet.
The iron worker took two bights to create the corner joints on the main frame. A transfer punch was turned on the lathe to index the machines mounting holes. These holes where drilled and tapped prior to welding avoiding the need to support the heavy frame.
The Mill was place onto a large cardboard creating a template to verify the mounting holes and allowing the edges of the machine to clear the large radius found on the inside corners of the angle frame.
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Skip welding was used to control warpage, the Miller 350P was set to 475IPM.
In the end the machine base will be about 3/4" above the floor once leveled allowing the castors to swivel freely. The cantilever design allows the castors to swivel 360º without conflict making it easier to locate the machine.
Thanks for looking.
Paco
In the end the machine base will be about 3/4" above the floor once leveled allowing the castors to swivel freely. The cantilever design allows the castors to swivel 360º without conflict making it easier to locate the machine.
Thanks for looking.
Paco
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The base turned out awesome Paco. Great job as usual.
Mike.
Mike.