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One year later 40'x80'

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fnieto

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Awesome Paco.:thumbup:

I just had to wonder, maybe your concrete down there in AZ doesn't get as hard as ours does up here and maybe that's why mine didn't settle.:lol:

Haha, its really about the one piece cast base relaxing. Your 1340 has two independent bases/cabinets correct? If so I can see that staying put. The 1440 has a two piece cast base and it remained spot on.
 
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fnieto

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The Tachometer magnet was place on the balancing ring, although it seemed to work, I was getting inconsistent reading compared to the hand held tach. The balance ring has twelve threaded holes that accommodate setscrew to add weight. The ring only has two setscrews (next to each other). The believe the sensor was confused by all those holes so a new collar was turned. This was the first project turned on the machine and I must say it was fun.

I started with a 5" x 1" aluminum disc. I chucked this from the OD to face the first side, then core, bore and chamfer. The tach was inoperative at this point as the balance collar was removed. I was turning close to 700 RPM based on past experience and I did set the VFD to 60 htz and the headstock gears accordingly.
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Used the largest Annular cutter I have to save time.
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With a 1-13/16" hole, a boring bar was set up. close measurements taken and transferred to the DRO. Took .060" passes until the DRO indicated I was within .030", took that cut and reversed the carriage feed on the fly for a minute skim cut. DRO indicated a difference of .00004". I'm glad I went with a 1 micron scale on the X axis. The surface finish was impeccable considering I used old inserts.
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The fit was almost too tight.
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A chamfer was added to the ID. The piece was then flipped and chucked by the ID. Three 1" pieces of 1/8" aluminum TIG wire where used to stand off the ring from the chuck for the last operation of turning and chamfering. First the second side was faced to final dimension, again the DRO was used saving time measuring between passes. No more sneaking up on final cuts.
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Second to last operation was to turn to final OD. Here is where the filler wire paid off. The final operation was to add a light chamfer.
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Almost done.
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More to come.
Paco
 

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fnieto

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With the ring was set up on the mill. Two 5/16" x .125 pockets where milled 180º apart. These pockets will tack two magnets flush to the surface. A second hole was added 90º from one pocket and threaded for 5/16-18 SS set screw. The set screw lines up with the only blind hole found on the balance ring.

The fit.
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The mill setup for magnet pockets.
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The mill was used to power tap (partially) then finished up by band as the chuck jaw was in the way.
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Using more magnets doesn't make the tachometer more accurate, but it does allow to read lower RPM. Two magnets should be able to pick up down to 15 RPM.
A drop of red loc-tite was used with the North pole facing up on both magnets. Two small center punch staked the magnet in place.
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The SS set screw ensures no magnetism confuse the Mach Tach.
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Here's a short video of the two stage motor braking added to the machine. Any time the E-stop is energized the motor brake will stop the chuck in 1.2 seconds regardless of the brake switch position.

Position 1 (up) brakes in 1.2 seconds
Position 2 (down) brakes in 2-5 seconds.


Thanks for visiting.

Paco
 

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fnieto

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Got the new backplate for the 8" Bison 4-Jaw combination scroll chuck. This chuck is a very nice tool to have. The new backplate required a registration cut of .0825" Took it in two passes. My sneaking up days are over. Really pleased with the DRO.

Taking the second and final pass.
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The old D1-4 backplate.
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The newly fitted D1-6 backplate.
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The 8" Bison looks right at home on the 1640. The new back plate added 16 pounds to the chuck.
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The Alloris CXA was stripped down re-serviced and reassembled. The old plastic knob was replaced.
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Paco
 

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fnieto

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Back on the B&P brake.
The main body and stand has been painted as well as the top clamp and smaller components.

The stand was shot in silver hammer tone a couple of weeks ago. Four medium wet coats of the brown hammertoe where applied. The paint was reduced with Xylene for spraying. A cheap HF HVLP gravity gun was used. I've used this inexpensive gun for over 20 years.
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A close up of the hammer tone. If the paint doesn't go down wet, it won't "hammer out" consistently.
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The two colors work well. The darker color with hide dirty paw prints. I used this color on a Rockwell/Delta disc/belt sander rebuild last year and has held up very well.
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The top clamp. All original welding spatter was removed for a clean look. I do the same on frames when restoring vehicles.
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Reassembles some smaller components. The black also works well with the brown and silver.
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Lined up for the marriage. I'll give it a few days to fully cure before they mesh.
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The old 41 year old data plate is the only resemblance of the machines true age.
D&K refused to sell me a new tag.
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Thanks for looking.

Paco
 

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rmack898

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I have to give a nod to those little pipe saw horses holding up the upper part of the brake. I'm sure that piece was heavy and the horses were grateful to have it off their backs.

Nice work Paco.
 
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fnieto

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I have to give a nod to those little pipe saw horses holding up the upper part of the brake. I'm sure that piece was heavy and the horses were grateful to have it off their backs.

Nice work Paco.

Hi Mac,

Yeah, those conduit horses are amazingly strong. I normally use welded horses for heavy loads such as this, but I have some structural beams on them at the moment. Guessing that top clamp weighs in around 400-425# "don't try this at home" hehehe.

Paco
 
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fnieto

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Got the top clamp and associated link, block adjusters and levers assembled.

Right end.
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Left end.
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Lubrication points where highlighted. Same will be done to the lower apron pivot point ball oilers.
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Thanks for looking,

Paco
 

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fnieto

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Started on the spider for the 1640. Used a old 3" axel from a home built drill rig.
The 3" mystery round bar turned and drilled nicely.

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Stepped drill to 1-3/16" for boring.
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A short video of the carriage proximity micro stop. The accuracy is shown on the DRO.

The second short video represents the repeatability the proximity stop.

Before spider.
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Spider slips on nicely.
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Back on shift today, more to follow.
Thanks for looking.

Paco
 

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yaidunno

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Great updates as always Paco. I really like how the brake is coming together!
 
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fnieto

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Finished the spindle spider yesterday. Used the rotary to drill, tap and counter bore four equal spaces for the brass tipped bolts.
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Secures to the spindle with a little blue thread locker.
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Running smoothly. I didn't use the spider as much on the 1440, but it sure is handy when you chuck up long stock.
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Thanks for looking,
Paco
 

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fnieto

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man....the quality of the pictures you have are awesome...the work you do is as well...

Thanks, All photos and videos posted are taken with a iPhone 6. Nothing fancy, but the shop lighting really makes a difference (I think).

Spent the day yesterday in my "back yard". Despite the high wind, the high temp was under 70º.
Last week I put in 92 hrs. at work so yesterday I avoided the two legged animals all day.

Rincon Valley near Tucson,AZ
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Back in the shop today after I walk the hounds.

Have a great weekend guys.

Paco
 

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Finallygotit

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Nice pictures Paco. Yeah, it was a little windy these past two days. Glad to see that we didn't have any fires.

Take care!

:beer:
 
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fnieto

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Hey Dan,
yeah, the wild fire season is fast approaching and with the low humidity and high winds, well thats never a good combo. The mornings are just beautiful this time of the year tho.

Paco
 

zmotorsports

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The outboard spider turned out fantastic Paco. Maybe one of these days I will get around to finishing mine for my little 13x40 lathe.

You're right about the winds, although the wife and I weren't as far south as you, we were in Monument Valley and Kayenta, AZ last week and the winds towards the end of the week were horrendous. I think they followed me home because they are blowing like crazy here today.:mad:
 
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fnieto

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Hi Mike,

Thanks, the spider can be helpful especially on smaller diameter stock and 5C chuck.

Been years since I'v been to Kayenta but have fond memories of it. I'm sure its no fun driving your coach in high wind conditions.
Winds are still pushing hard preventing the final paint on the brake.

Paco
 
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fnieto

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Paco? Been a while, any updates?


How's the brake coming??


:beer:

Hi Dan and Mike,

Been working crazy overtime over the past couple of months (92 hour work weeks).
Departments going through some F&%$ed changes and raking it in while its available.

The brake is waiting the last of TLC and the lathe only has 6 hours on the meter as I type.
I have some time off in July and plan on hitting it hard, hopefully something worthwhile to share then.

Stay cool out there.

Paco
 

LXCam

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Hi Dan and Mike,

Been working crazy overtime over the past couple of months (92 hour work weeks).
Departments going through some F&%$ed changes and raking it in while its available.

The brake is waiting the last of TLC and the lathe only has 6 hours on the meter as I type.
I have some time off in July and plan on hitting it hard, hopefully something worthwhile to share then.

Stay cool out there.

Paco

Good thing you're gonna crank it up in July when it's only 118 degrees and not wait until August when it's 123......good planning bud. :lol_hitti
 
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fnieto

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Hey Cam,
Yea, its hotter than a June bride for sure, but the dough is good. Not sure if the OT will be around in August, doubtful....
Hope all is good in your world brother.

Paco
 

LXCam

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Life is good my friend. Our daughter blessed us with grandbubby #2 last week as well as I signed on the dotted line for a job that will see me thru too retirement. Last weekend I picked up my soft tail and it's only 95 out today and not a buck twenty like in your neck of the woods ;). Hahahaha

Boy do I understand sucking up what you can when you can. I lived most of my life that way. Back with my contracting business I used to tell the crew, **** it all up why you can because one day it won't be there anymore. Typical of employees they all got tired of it and didn't want to work the long hours or weekends after a few years. And whatta ya know by 2008 not only was there not any overtime, there wasn't even 40hrs a week. Guess who starting bitching first. :lol:

Take care and stay cool bud.
 
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fnieto

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Congratulations amigo!
I'm/we're still waiting for a grand baby. Keep the shiny side up on your Hog and enjoy your weather.
 

Finallygotit

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Hi Dan and Mike,

Been working crazy overtime over the past couple of months (92 hour work weeks).
Departments going through some F&%$ed changes and raking it in while its available.

The brake is waiting the last of TLC and the lathe only has 6 hours on the meter as I type.
I have some time off in July and plan on hitting it hard, hopefully something worthwhile to share then.

Stay cool out there.

Paco


Holy **** Paco, don't kill yourself! :willy_nil


And staying cool is why I had the mini split installed. All hail Saint Freon!




:beer:
 
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fnieto

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Some updates
Put the finishing touches on the spider by replacing the jam nuts with thumb nuts. Used some scrap brass I had in the bin.

Knurled enough for four nuts.
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Turned the end, drilled and tapped as far as I could reach then parted.
Rinse and repeat 3 x.
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Turned out pretty good. They jam nicely without a tool.
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fnieto

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Had a repeat customer wanting some custom rocker protection for his 2018 Tundra.
He pulls a trailer with a four seater Razor so his Tundra won't see heavy off roading.
His parameters where, Keep the pipe as close to the rocker as possible and make then removable, be strong enough to use the rail for a jack point and powder coat finish.

Used 1/4"x1"x1" angle drilled and welded capture nuts for the flange plate to mount to.
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Cut a 2.375 sch. 40 section of pipe and 45º both ends. also capped with 1/4" material for a corner weld fillet all around allowing for Grinding and blending.
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Removed and welded 100% and off to powder coat.
Masked off and used zero rust to touch up any bare spots on frame and mounting brackets.


Used jacks to dial in the position, used 1/4"x 2" flat strap to fabricate brackets forming a "T" bar.
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All done, bolted right up and looks clean.
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Thanks for looking
 

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