Options for front end service set thoughts?

[GophersGarage]

Last items I like to add is a nice kit service set

Again most likely all the same factory made but post up your thoughts




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[plinker]

I've got the same kit as the OTC 6295 except it's branded Napa/K-D. No issues. I'd go with the brand that would have the best support vs. price ratio.

 

[gatlibs]

I would go absolutely by price on this one because they are all made in China and I don't know any reason to believe that one set is different than another. Even Snap-On is just a rebadged kit.

These are the only two tools (linked below) that I could definitively find as different because of country of origin. I have one of those and use an engineering hammer (or engineering and drilling hammers) for removing tie rods from knuckles.

http://www.ktoolinternational.com/k...-Specialty-Tools/Steering/KTI70365/p/KTI70365
http://www.ktoolinternational.com/k...-Specialty-Tools/Steering/KTI70360/p/KTI70360

 

[GophersGarage]

Great info thanks bud


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[kbuhagiar]

Last items I like to add is a nice kit service set

I think mine is the OTC, but no matter which one you select you will love never using a pickle fork and hammer again.

 

[Two Door]

I would go absolutely by price on this one because they are all made in China and I don't know any reason to believe that one set is different than another. Even Snap-On is just a rebadged kit.

..

I paid extra for a Gearwrench version of the lever-type tool. The first time I used it the forcing screw bent, or perhaps it came that way. I came to the same conclusion about the relative quality.

 

[GophersGarage]

Dam China screwing us


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[theoldwizard1]

As a DIYer for over 50 years, I have found that I have not need any of those tools, except on one occasion. I need to pull a pitman arm off of a 20 yo truck. I bough an OTC 7310A but even though it has bolts to hold it on it would not stay.

Lots of heat (propane), lots of beating and lots of cussing finally got it off !

Tie rods are easy. Remove the castellated nut, re-installed upside down until the nut and the top of the stud are flush. BFH ! Or a pickle fork !!

If you are going to be doing this a lot, Big Nasty (Astro 4980) is a MUST HAVE !

 

[gatlibs]

As a DIYer for over 50 years, I have found that I have not need any of those tools, except on one occasion. I need to pull a pitman arm off of a 20 yo truck. I bough an OTC 7310A but even though it has bolts to hold it on it would not stay.

Lots of heat (propane), lots of beating and lots of cussing finally got it off !

Tie rods are easy. Remove the castellated nut, re-installed upside down until the nut and the top of the stud are flush. BFH ! Or a pickle fork !!

If you are going to be doing this a lot, Big Nasty (Astro 4980) is a MUST HAVE !

I'd try hitting the sides of the arm on the knuckle before I started to strike the end of the tie rod. Usually one hammering on the side will do it, but sometimes two hammers hitting both sides at the same time helps. If you are to the point of a pickle fork, then you are at replacement.

 

[seang81]

This is a good kit to have. I got the gearwrench set because warranty is easy. I've had bad luck with otc warranty.

 

[MattT]

I think mine is the OTC, but no matter which one you select you will love never using a pickle fork and hammer again.

Never say never. There's some balljoints you ain't getting with any of the fancy gadgets in those kits. And hammers, or a pickle fork, are faster.

I'd try hitting the sides of the arm on the knuckle before I started to strike the end of the tie rod. Usually one hammering on the side will do it, but sometimes two hammers hitting both sides at the same time helps.

Two hammers always helps. I love watching people try to pop 'em with one

 

[unslow1]

Never say never. There's some balljoints you ain't getting with any of the fancy gadgets in those kits. And hammers, or a pickle fork, are faster.



Two hammers always helps. I love watching people try to pop 'em with one

Beat me to the two hammer suggestion.

OP make sure you grease/oil the threads of the forcing screw before you use it. I don't know how many of those things I've seen with the threads damaged and dry.

 

[visionguru]

I paid extra for a Gearwrench version of the lever-type tool. The first time I used it the forcing screw bent, or perhaps it came that way. I came to the same conclusion about the relative quality.

This is all you need for a Honda. You should have stopped when the screw becomes super tight, and then start hammering. I read it somewhere that is the proper way to use that tool.

Luckily, I never had to do that. The tool always popped the ball joints before getting too tight to damage the bolt. So much easier than those brutes who beat with a 10lb sludge, thinking it's faster. It's not: the tool takes 10 seconds to put on, and another 3 seconds with impact.

 

[Two Door]

This is all you need for a Honda. You should have stopped when the screw becomes super tight, and then start hammering. I read it somewhere that is the proper way to use that tool.

Luckily, I never had to do that. The tool always popped the ball joints before getting too tight to damage the bolt. So much easier than those brutes who beat with a 10lb sludge, thinking it's faster. It's not: the tool takes 10 seconds to put on, and another 3 seconds with impact.

Please don't make assumptions about how the tool was used. If it had not been used moderately I wouldn't have been saying bad things about it.

 

[visionguru]

The weakest point of this style ball joint tool is the pivot pin: not thick and bares all the force at a vulnerable direction. If something gives, it's the pivot pin.

I had to guess how you could bend the bolt while screwing it straight down. It's hard to believe that the pivot pin did not bend and threads weren't striped before the bolt was bent.

 

[impactsocket]

Are the $40 to $50 no-name Chinese front end service sets on ebay just as good as the OTC front end service set?


OTC front end service set have a nice finish but cost over $100

The $40 to $50 cheaper sets have more of a rough finish but do they work?

 

[impactsocket]

Do the Powerbuilt / Alltrade / OEMTOOLS front end service sets that you can rent from Orielly's or Autozone work?

 

[kbuhagiar]

Here's the one I purchased in 2014 from Amazon (OTC 6295):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH7O/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have used it to completely disassemble four front ends (1 Ford and 3 GM) with no problems so far.

JMHO, I much prefer this to using a pickle fork.

 

[vssjim]

I also would look at the warranty because a lot of OTC tools since bosch bought them and shipped mfg, overseas have also shortened the warranty to to one year with a receipt.

 

[impactsocket]

Does anyone have the ARES 70840 Front End Service Set ($69.98)?

ARES warranty: backed by Performance Assurance. If you have any issues with your ARES Front End Service Set, simply contact customer service for troubleshooting help, parts, replacement, or refund.


https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Service-Removal-Popular-Included/dp/B079J7G4SV/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

[Firebrick43]

I have the OTC set and it’s very nice, never a problem with it in 10-12 years I had it. I will never use a pickle fork again. Only problem with separator like vision guru showed is $&&$ gm facotory ball joint use an extra long stud because guess all their assemblers are blind???? I cut most of the stud extension off w/cutoff wheel then the tool works fine. As far as Chinese version I learned with ball joint C press. I bought a chinese one first and quickly destroyed it. The otc has held up great! Would have saved money going with otc in the beginning.

 

[Bogie1632]

Bought the HF kit in '04 because the shop I was assigned to was too cheap to buy the right tools for the job. Still going strong after 16 years. I've run across many other kits over the years and they all seem to be pretty much the same.

IMHO, get one you can get serviced, warrantied, or repaired easiest to where you are located.

V/R
Bogie