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Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

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Hiball

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Yes, the upper groove edge is enough to retain the u-cup. But my concern here was the use of a taller u-cup as u-cups of less height are not available everywhere. A taller u-cup will require machining to achieve the required height to fit the taller u-cup below that edge. In recountryman' case, his height below the edge seems to be around 5.5mm or so. In this case he would need to get an u-cup with a 5mm height if he does not want to machine more metal from the ram. If his u-cup is taller, like 8mm or 10mm, he has no choice but to machine down the thick part of the ram to get the extra height. If he finds a low height u-cup, he only has to remove the bottom ridge.

Gotcha.. Yes if you intend to use a replacement Ucup that is taller than the space allotted by the Oem Shell/oring, you are gonna need to open up that seating area. I believe.. And don't quote me, a 6mm will fit in those older shell/oring jacks. And it's a Little on the short side, when compared to the height of your newer jacks, but it still caries the same PsI rating and just a hair under your typical walker 1/4" 2 ton cups.
 
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EDGAR

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If I were to do any machining on the ram, I might as well use the taller u-cup available. Also, I would prefer to machine a groove for a snap ring to retain the u-cup. The reason is that if, for some unforeseeable reason, I need to remove the u-cup later, it is much easier to remove the snap ring and just pull the u-cup off. The inner sealing edge of a "snap on" u-cup could be damaged if needed to be removed after it is mounted. They snap on easily but they don't come out easily. Not that you need to remove it, just in case.
 
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Hiball

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If I were to do any machining on the ram, I might as well use the taller u-cup available. Also, I would prefer to machine a groove for a snap ring to retain the u-cup. The reason is that if, for some unforeseeable reason, I need to remove the u-cup later, it is much easier to remove the snap ring and just pull the u-cup off. The inner sealing edge of a "snap on" u-cup could be damaged if needed to be removed after it is mounted. They snap on easily but they don't come out easily. Not that you need to remove it, just in case.

I suspect it varies, from customer to customer.. And how many rebuilds the owner expects to get out the unit.
 

recountryman

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He ya'll!

I still haven't gotten around to fixing mine as well... really just been lazy! Also tried contacting Torin about a seal kit or possibly just the ram seal but only got a email to send pics and they would get back...guess they are just too busy to deal with customers so no more Torins for me.

Thanks for more info as now I believe I have enough info to where its time now to get it done. Just got to find a 40mm x 32mm x 5mm u cup if possible. Local is useless so checking the internet for someone who will sale just one or possible 2 (backup).

Also in order to hold the u cup in place "using the snap in method" would you leave a groove for it to snap in...about 1mm or so? Or when I machine the dia of ram for the u cup leave extra material again about 1 mm or so on the end as per EDGAR statement.."Leave the metal intact between the yellow lines to snap the u-cup in place"...

Thanks!
 
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He ya'll!

I still haven't gotten around to fixing mine as well... really just been lazy! Also tried contacting Torin about a seal kit or possibly just the ram seal but only got a email to send pics and they would get back...guess they are just too busy to deal with customers so no more Torins for me.

Thanks for more info as now I believe I have enough info to where its time now to get it done. Just got to find a 40mm x 32mm x 5mm u cup if possible. Local is useless so checking the internet for someone who will sale just one or possible 2 (backup).

Also in order to hold the u cup in place "using the snap in method" would you leave a groove for it to snap in...about 1mm or so? Or when I machine the dia of ram for the u cup leave extra material again about 1 mm or so on the end as per EDGAR statement.."Leave the metal intact between the yellow lines to snap the u-cup in place"...

Thanks!

If you intend to make the Groove Wider to accept a Taller Ucup and want to keep it a "Snap over", Just make it wide enough to accept the Ucup (+1mm or 2) its not necessary to have a huge gland opening. If your gonna go to the Trouble to do that type of Machining, You can also utilize a Snap ring by making a Groove. 40 x 32 x 5 is available as is 5.5, 5.7, 6.0.. For some reason 6mm sticks in my Head as fitting.. but i could be Wrong. The Issue with having a Large section to snap the Ucup around is that, Once its ON.. If for some reason you ever need to remove it... Its very easy to damage upon Removal, reason being is that your typical 32mm ID Ucup is gonna measure roughly 32.5mm +/- on the rear and on the business end its gonna measure 31mm +/-. It doesn't really bother me because i see no reason to remove it, unless its down the Road and its gonna get replaced anyways. I have a Order being put together currently for some Seal, I will be adding some of those sizes as its generally a stock item.
 
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recountryman

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Thanks, I just found out that mfpseals will sale with a minimum of $10 for internet sale and they have sale going on for 40% off so going to get 4 (to go over 10 dollars) 032X040X05.0 u cups either nitrile or URETHANE haven't decided which but not much difference in price and will have to get 4 regardless.

When seals come in I'll machine the ram at work...during break of course... and see how it fits.
 
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Thanks, I just found out that mfpseals will sale with a minimum of $10 for internet sale and they have sale going on for 40% off so going to get 4 (to go over 10 dollars) 032X040X05.0 u cups either nitrile or URETHANE haven't decided which but not much difference in price and will have to get 4 regardless.

When seals come in I'll machine the ram at work...during break of course... and see how it fits.

Go with urethane..

FYI... Make sure you specify that you want your order to ship from 1 location, if for some reason they cant fill from one location, you will incur multiple shipping charges and they are proud of them.

The Michigan branches (Troy) carries the largest inventory IRC.
 
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recountryman

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Go with urethane..

FYI... Make sure you specify that you want your order to ship from 1 location, if for some reason they cant fill from one location, you will incur multiple shipping charges and they are proud of them.

The Michigan branches (Troy) carries the largest inventory IRC.

Thanks I was worried about the shipping costs as its not shown in total price guess they'll contact me on final price with the shipping.

****, just noticed I ordered the nitrile oh well got some extra u cups if they don't last as long.
 
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toddol1971

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here they are. So I cant use the blue ucup. Right? Maybe it would just be easier to go with the original shell and oring? What do you think? Give me your opinions. Thought I'd throw in a cool pic of my truck I sold.
 

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Hiball

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here they are. So I cant use the blue ucup. Right? Maybe it would just be easier to go with the original shell and oring? What do you think? Give me your opinions. Thought I'd throw in a cool pic of my truck I sold.

"I" would Never utilize a Ucup on that Ram without first Removing that Lower Groove.. It distorts the face by applying unneeded pressure and im afraid it will cause sealing issues under pressure.
 
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recountryman

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Guess you could always try it and see? If over time it does distort it and has issues at least you know what to do. I always like to do it right and do it once but sometimes you got to work with what you have at the time.

Was your old shell and oring bad? Looks like yours and mine are of the same design my shell was torn and was unable to find a replacement.

Also nice truck!
 
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EDGAR

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The ridge at the bottom should be removed as the u-cup is a compression seal and it will be squeezed into that ridge when under a load. See below some animations of u-cups. Although one is for a piston seal with built in back up u-cup and the other is an u-cup for a "rod" application, the simulation represents what happens to an u-cup under load. The bottom of the u-cup could be damaged by the ridge.

Also, for this same reason, (the compression of the u-cup against the cylinder surface) the inside of the cylinder should be highly polished. Honing the cylinder with a three stone honer used for gas engines will leave a cross hatch pattern that is too rough for the u-cup and will cause premature wear of the u-cup if the jack is used on a daily basis, like in a tire shop, for example. The cylinder surface should show no scratches or heavy swirl marks. Ideally, it should look almost like a glass surface. Or like a smooth chromed surface.

http://www.systemseals.com/fea-animations/P27 Urethane Piston Seal.gif

http://www.systemseals.com/fea-animations/R01 Urethane Rod Seal.gif
 
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Also, for this same reason, (the compression of the u-cup against the cylinder surface) the inside of the cylinder should be highly polished. Honing the cylinder with a three stone honer used for gas engines will leave a cross hatch pattern that is too rough for the u-cup and will cause premature wear of the u-cup if the jack is used on a daily basis, like in a tire shop, for example. The cylinder surface should show no scratches or heavy swirl marks. Ideally, it should look almost like a glass surface. Or like a smooth chromed surface.

We are just gonna have to Agree to disagree if your saying that you can't use a 3 stone hone to polish a hydraulic cylinder. Now... I'm not saying grab a 100 grit stone and go crazy (that would be entirely too rough) but a nice 4" 400 grit stone used at a proper speed with some good lube will produce a nice finish.. I still use my 3 hone on oddball cylinder sizes (and it still takes some common sense) i mainly I use quality flex hones for the common sizes. I know I've never replicated the problem, but Flex Hone claims that you can actually make the cylinders too smooth and Ucups will leak. When I first stepped up to flex hones, I spent along time talking to these nice folks. They where adimate that the most important part of cylinder work is the correct cutting grit/material, Working at the correct speed and lube and finding a nice finish that won't wreck the New seals and also provide a good seal.

I would also like to Note.. I'm not trying to argue, my goal here is to give the membership the courage/knowledge to tackle there own projects. I don't want them to think they can't address cylinder issues with a 3 stone hone, when in fact they actually sell the proper stones for hydraulic work (linked above).

Good day..
 
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EDGAR

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I was referring to the typical 240 grit hone. A 400 grit hone should do a nice job for the typical do it yourselvers if done with enough care. It is reasonable to think that a polished finish may not easy to achieve by everyone wanting to repair its own hydraulic equipment. It may not be cost effective for just one repair.

However, the true surface finish required by companies that manufacture hydraulic seals for use in any type of cylinder is one that comes close to be as smooth as glass or as a chromed surface. It is true that the surface should not be perfectly polished because it will not retain oil at all. Oil will bead up and not remain in the surface as it should to provide lubrication. This lack of lubrication would cause premature wear of the seals in high speed applications and/or high usage applications with the end result of leaking seals. Also, oil could just simply bypass the seal lips as the surface may be too slippery for the seal to actually seal. It would be like when a car is waxed and the water beads run off the car. You do not want that in a cylinder. But, still, you want it to be as polished as you are able to do it. Depends on equipment, the patience of the person doing it and the technique used. It also depends on what the person doing it considers to be "good enough."

The smoother the surface, the less wear for the seals. Now, this is important in equipment which is used many hours a day, everyday, like earth moving machines, for example. For the occasional use it is not really important, as a seal would take a long time to wear with this kind of use.

I saw the link for the honers and I see that the finer grit they sell is the 400 grit. I would really like to see a 600 grit or even a 500 grit from them, but if their main business is honers for gas engines, the 600 grit would not work for that application and therefore they may never offer it as they will probably sell only a few. So they have to sell well what they have.

As for the flex hones, a 600 grit would be nice but flex hones may be rather expensive and for just one use is not worth it.

My interest with the polishing thing is that GJ members know that a well polished surface is necessary in cylinders to protect seals from excessive wear. That they can actually achieve that, at a low cost or easily, is another story. But at least they are better informed and therefore, may take better care when honing the cylinders and not just use a medium or coarse grit honer just because other persons honed their cylinders with these. ” Monkey see, monkey do” without understanding the why can affect the end result.

As for the any GJ member wanting to do its own honing, a 400 grit should do a good job of it. Just do it with care and a lot of lubrication. A 600 grit would be better, but don't go out of your way to get one. For occasional use of any type of cylinder, the surface finish achieved with a 400 grit hone is more than adequate, provided it is done correctly.
 
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toddol1971

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Ok, I'm a little cornfused. Using the pic here, the big shoulder is a stop lets say. Then the next part has the same dia/cross sec as the part just above the groove. Its that little piece just above the shoulder that needs to be machined off to be the same dia/cross sec as the bottom of the groove. Is this correct. If it is, then I'll need a different (smaller ID) u-cup than the one I have here. Would I also need the u-cup to be taller to fit the gap between the shoulder and upper part? I hope I have this figured out.

To answer country's ? my shell/oring was fine. I just wanted to upgrade since I had it this torn apart. Its not fine any more though. I was on the phone with the hydro guy to make sure he had what i needed before I drove an hour. My kids were driving me crazy and we were getting ready to go someplace and I couldnt get the shell/oring off. So me being me, and frustrated at the time, while also knowing I was replacing it I just cut the sucker off. Well let me tell you that I wish I had that sonofabitch right now. I love fixing thing and I am usually a very patient mechanic, but I've got to pull my transfercase like last week. I need my jack for this job and it just seems like its taking me for ever to get this jack done. I dont have any money and living 1 1/4 from town makes it that much harder. You call a place, yeah we have that. Drive all that way then guess what. No parts, or not all of them. If I lived by Mexico Mo, I'd be showing my jack to steven.. For those that didnt get that, Mo. is called the show me state.

I really appreciate all your help guys. Thanks.
 

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Hiball

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Ok, I'm a little cornfused.

How so?

That small ridge at the bottom needs to be removed (on the ram) this will allow the seal to rest properly.

I see you added some info after I responded.. I get what your saying, and No if you used a smaller size it would be too tight thru the middle and on the business end, ucups are always a bit bigger on the backside and smaller on the business end in reference to the actual ID. Rest assured... Under load that little groove will cause issues.
 
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toddol1971

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How so?

That small ridge at the bottom needs to be removed (on the ram) this will allow the seal to rest properly.

I went to edit my post and you read it before I finished:lol: I figured thats what youns meant but had a few other ?'s. Thanks
 
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Hiball

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How much bigger than the ID of the cylinder should the ucup OD be?

If you measure the actual ID of the Ram, say its 32mm..(above the groove) A 32mm ucup will measure roughly 32.5 +/- on the back side (ID) and 31mm and some change on the sealing end.

ID/OD will vary from jack to jack, the OD of a cup only represents the back side of a Ucup, not the flared portion.
 

stu_haxorpcs

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I think my jack matches these pictures? I was hoping it was a USA made jack when I picked it up, but at least it looks a lot better made than my torin jack. I have a leak around the pump and it slowly leaks down with a load on it.
http://imgur.com/a/5hz8O#0

ww3jHNLh.jpg


upeUUl8h.jpg


zfGyGzjh.jpg
 

toddol1971

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How so?

That small ridge at the bottom needs to be removed (on the ram) this will allow the seal to rest properly.

I see you added some info after I responded.. I get what your saying, and No if you used a smaller size it would be too tight thru the middle and on the business end, ucups are always a bit bigger on the backside and smaller on the business end in reference to the actual ID. Rest assured... Under load that little groove will cause issues.

I understand that the small portion needs removed. This will in effect make the groove wider. the diameter of the inside of the groove is the measurement that the id of the ucup needs to be, right. Please let me know if this is correct. Thank you
 

toddol1971

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Another question I have, is can I just replace the shell oring and call it a day. By the time I pay to machine that ram, I can just about get a new floor jack.
 

recountryman

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Another question I have, is can I just replace the shell oring and call it a day. By the time I pay to machine that ram, I can just about get a new floor jack.

If you just cut the o'ring sure...If you cut the shell good luck locating one. Even Torin stopped responding to me about getting a rebuild kit or just the ram seal.

I just bought me a new (cheap also) Pittsburg jack ...yes harbor freight special...for under $90 shipped as I need to change oil this weekend. Figure I'll get a good one later on.
 
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Hiball

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I understand that the small portion needs removed. This will in effect make the groove wider. the diameter of the inside of the groove is the measurement that the id of the ucup needs to be, right. Please let me know if this is correct. Thank you

My head hurts.. Remove the groove, install the new ucup. The only thing removing that small groove will do is allow the ucup to properly sit against the guide and give it a flat base to ride against while under load.

Added for clarity..

It won't necessary hurt the ucup to sit in a groove wider than the seal height, in theory the seal while under pressure (up and down) will always ride against the guide/heel. With that said.. You don't want a 6mm ucup sitting in a 12mm groove, if for some reason someone would grab the lift arm and pull it up, that extra room could cause the seal to get twisted.. And damage the sealing lips. A MM or 2 won't make a difference or cause any serious problems..
 
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EDGAR

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TODDOL1971

What is the size of the blue u-cup you show in the pictures? Is it 33mm x 40mm x 6 mm ? What size did the sales person tell you it was? Also, what is the diameter of the groove where the u-cup goes? A difference of just 1 mm in the inside diameter of the u-cup size will cause a leak. (I am pretty sure that you know that the u-cup inside diameter is measured at the bottom part and not at the lips and that the inside diameter of the u-cup should be the same as the diameter of the groove.)

I can see from your pictures that the height of your u-cup is more than the height of the groove ( the groove seems to be 4.5MM high or so). That means that you will have to move the retaining edge further up to fit the u-cup inside the groove besides removing the ridge at the bottom. See first picture below, the red line shows up to where you have to remove metal. So the groove height (or width) should be the u-cup height plus 1mm or 2mm of space. Since you don't seem to have a backup washer, you don't have to add its height to the cut unless you plan to fit one at a later time. If you can find one that size, that is. The lime line marks the ridge to be removed.

Also, in another picture, the u-cup bottom seems to be almost an 1mm wider than the ram part where the u-cup rest against, which would make the flared side outside diameter also bigger than necessary (see second picture). I am not saying this is incorrect because it depends on the space available between the diameter of the ram at this part and the inside diameter of the cylinder. The space between these two should not be too much, but then, it depends on how well the ram was machined. But anyway, have you tested the fit of the u-cup inside the cylinder to see if fits correctly? A good fitting u-cup should slide up and down in the cylinder with low friction. If the fit is too tight that makes it difficult to insert and later remove the ram, with the u-cup mounted, from the cylinder, then you may have a problem with the size of the u-cup.

Upgrading to an u-cup is something that you can do when you own a lathe or have a friend who owns a lathe, otherwise it can be an expensive proposition relative to the price of the jack. If you want to go back to the shell, I believe Hiball has some used ones, maybe he can get you one.
 

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Hiball

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I believe Hiball has some used ones, maybe he can get you one.

Yes.. I do have some used shells, Anyone that wants one only has to cover 1st Class shipping costs.. No guarantees on there Performance though ;)



Edgar I wonder if the bulge on the rear, is because the groove is preventing it from sitting properly. Very well could be a size too big though.. Hard to say without it here in front of me and or some measurements.
 
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toddol1971

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thanks guys. I'm sorry if there is any confusion on my part, but I know my words arent always interpreted well. I thought I laid it out pretty good lol. This is one of those times when I knew the answer, but wanted someone to agree to make sure nothing was wrong. The u-cup I have now is not the right size. The id of ucup must fit the rams groove dia. Thats why I was asking about the id of the ucup being the same as the groove id. Groove height needs to be within a mm or 2 of the height of the ucup. Edgar I would love to put a backer in there, but I think the big part of the ram will work ok. I really appreciate your help. I wish I would have known that this was this involved. I know a guy that will do the machine work for 20 bucks. I'll make a call to the hydraulic shop and see if they have the ucup I need. Thank you. I got to get a move on :3gears:
 

toddol1971

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well, he milled 8mm off. I ordered the ucup. I'll go get it monday. The machinist only charged me 10 bucks. Cant beat that.
 

shmUDE

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signed up just because of this thread. Good work Hiball!

I tore down my Larin jack that wont hold pressure anymore expecting to find a bad seal. What i found was a little screen rolling around in it that marred up the piston and cylinder. Can you buy new parts for these? or maybe a whole new hydraulic pump?




 
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Hiball

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signed up just because of this thread. Good work Hiball!

I tore down my Larin jack that wont hold pressure anymore expecting to find a bad seal. What i found was a little screen rolling around in it that marred up the piston and cylinder. Can you buy new parts for these? or maybe a whole new hydraulic pump?

Hmm.. Did you actually find that screen in the cylinder? Or was it loose in the pan when you drained the jack? The reason I ask is because generally the screens are used in the reservoir and sit in the intake, and there is no feasible way for it to transfer to cylinder. Now.. Some of your older jacks had a screen on the end of the ram, this style also utilized a cross bar that lifted a ball if a seat when the jack reached its maximum height. I'm on my phone, but I would think that if that screen was the cause of that cylinder/ram damage.. It would be in much worse shape.. Again I'm on my phone but that damage looks substantial.. Ill check it out closer when I get home. I suspect the cause of that damage was because something was out of kelter in regards to the ram being square in the bore, and under load it got into the cylinder walls and that metal just kept getting progressively worse.
 
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shmUDE

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Hmm.. Did you actually find that screen in the cylinder? Or was it loose in the pan when you drained the jack? The reason I ask is because generally the screens are used in the reservoir and sit in the intake, and there is no feasible way for it to transfer to cylinder. Now.. Some of your older jacks had a screen on the end of the ram, this style also utilized a cross bar that lifted a ball if a seat when the jack reached its maximum height. I'm on my phone, but I would think that if that screen was the cause of that cylinder/ram damage.. It would be in much worse shape.. Again I'm on my phone but that damage looks substantial.. Ill check it out closer when I get home. I suspect the cause of that damage was because something was out of kelter in regards to the ram being square in the bore, and under load it got into the cylinder walls and that metal just kept getting progressively worse.

looking at it again, you are right, it was in the reservoir and there was no way that it could get down into where the damage was. Either way the damage is very substantial and i figured i would look for parts instead of just throwing the thing away and buying a harbor freight one.
 

pkacres

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@Hiball:
Came accross your rebuild tutorial a couple of months ago when searching for how to fix a 1990 vintage Crafstman jack. I have since read through most of this thread. Thank you for the time and patience in starting this and with all the generous sharing of information. It has and continues to be most educational.
So...mine is leaking out of the ram end exit or from one of the two ends of the main cylinder/ram housing. I holds just fine but loses some capability when it reaches the top third or so of the the upper stroke. Took it apart and found the cup seal on the ram to be in very good shape, so speculating I need to replace the two large O-rings on the ram housing and the ram exit O-ring. I did some local checking and have discovered that these metric O-rings (unit mfg. in Taiwan) are not quite standard. The range of measurements (from the old rings as well as the ram and cylinder housing) in SAE and then the converted SI (metric) seem to give me several different potential sizes that MIGHT work for each of the two sizes of O-rings I need.
What is the best way to narrow the possibilites to end up with a set of O-rings that will fit?
Thanks!
 
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Hiball

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@Hiball:
Came accross your rebuild tutorial a couple of months ago when searching for how to fix a 1990 vintage Crafstman jack. I have since read through most of this thread. Thank you for the time and patience in starting this and with all the generous sharing of information. It has and continues to be most educational.
So...mine is leaking out of the ram end exit or from one of the two ends of the main cylinder/ram housing. I holds just fine but loses some capability when it reaches the top third or so of the the upper stroke. Took it apart and found the cup seal on the ram to be in very good shape, so speculating I need to replace the two large O-rings on the ram housing and the ram exit O-ring. I did some local checking and have discovered that these metric O-rings (unit mfg. in Taiwan) are not quite standard. The range of measurements (from the old rings as well as the ram and cylinder housing) in SAE and then the converted SI (metric) seem to give me several different potential sizes that MIGHT work for each of the two sizes of O-rings I need.
What is the best way to narrow the possibilites to end up with a set of O-rings that will fit?
Thanks!

Thanks for the Compliment.. To Answer your Question its very possible to cross reference a SAE Oring into a Metric Oring Slot. I dont pretend to be able to cross reference off the top of my Head, There are Online calculators for this Chore. When trying to figure out what Oring you Need, Its best to measure the actual "Hard Part", For instance on the Tank Nut Oring (The one that seals the Ram) Measure the actual Ram, This will give you a Idea on what ID to Choose. I like to for my Orings to fit with a "Little" Resistance, So if your Ram is 32.4mm, Use a 32mm ID Oring. Once you get that measurement, the next step is the Cross Section, Measure your Old Oring in Various Places, add a little to account for the Oring being deformed and go from there. ID + CS will get you where you need to be... If you have any further questions or Problems securing the Orings, Give me a Shout via PM.

Steven
 

toddol1971

Active member
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
25
Hey Stephen. I got the ucup installed. Only 2 orings in the blue kit I got at hf would work. Honestly all my orings looked good before the rebuild. I threw it together today just to see what it would do. I left the jack body on the bench, filled it, bled it and tested it right there. It seems to do the same thing it did before. I know it may react different on the ground. This is what its doing. Start pumping and ram comes out. About 1/2 way I can feel pressure in the pump. Kind of like its equalized. It feels like when I push it in it wants to push it back out, and when I pull it out it feels like it wants to **** it in. It still moves the ram out, but not as much as in the beginning. It eventually will not go up any more. I'd say ram is out about 3/4ths of the way out at this point. What do you think would cause this.

Man that ucup fits nice though.
 
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Hiball

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Apr 30, 2009
Messages
14,026
Location
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Hey Stephen. I got the ucup installed. Only 2 orings in the blue kit I got at hf would work. Honestly all my orings looked good before the rebuild. I threw it together today just to see what it would do. I left the jack body on the bench, filled it, bled it and tested it right there. It seems to do the same thing it did before. I know it may react different on the ground. This is what its doing. Start pumping and ram comes out. About 1/2 way I can feel pressure in the pump. Kind of like its equalized. It feels like when I push it in it wants to push it back out, and when I pull it out it feels like it wants to **** it in. It still moves the ram out, but not as much as in the beginning. It eventually will not go up any more. I'd say ram is out about 3/4ths of the way out at this point. What do you think would cause this.

Man that ucup fits nice though.

Refresh my memory, is this a quick lift jack? Regardless.. Put it back in the frame and check it under load. <--- report back
 
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EDGAR

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Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
437
TODDOL

Did you test this with the rubber plug installed? Try it again without the plug and see if the ram comes out all the way. Sometimes, as oil comes out of the reservoir to push the ram out, a vacuum is created in the reservoir. The more oil is pumped out of the reservoir, the greater the vacuum, until at some point the pump piston is unable to draw oil from the reservoir, it simply can not overcome the vacuum. If you test it without the plug and it works OK, you will need to install some type of breather. If your jack is like the one shown in the tutorial, you will have to drill a new hole on the reservoir tube, one or two inches in front of the actual hole, to install the breather as the handle yoke is exactly over the oil fill hole when the handle is up and there isn't enough space to fit the breather under the handle yoke. Did you use a new o-ring for the pump piston? Sometimes a new o-ring can overcome the reservoir vacuum.

In other situations you may have air pressure built up in the reservoir after using the jack a couple of times. In this situation if you have any leaking O-rings, the air pressure will push oil out. So it is a good idea to have a breather in the pump. This allows the pump to work better, the reason some of the better jacks use breathers.

Do you have any pictures of the u-cup mounted on the ram? What was the size you finally bought? See below an example of a breather that may be used on floor jacks.
 

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recountryman

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Apr 20, 2013
Messages
115
Well I'm just checking in glad to see Todd got his machining done and jack put back...me well still waiting on my u cups from MFP. Was suppose to be shipped on May 28 but after a week of waiting emailed them on lt to find out "supposedly" inventory was off and they should ship this week. Funny as I emailed them when purchased to make sure all would ship from same place and they said they had them and would ship from the Troy branch.

Had to get all my parts and put them in a container of oil as its starting to rust now. May have to take Hiball up on his offer of used shells as the longer I wait greater chance of parts gone missing / me forgetting where I put them...rough getting old.
 
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toddol1971

Active member
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
25
Refresh my memory, is this a quick lift jack? Regardless.. Put it back in the frame and check it under load. <--- report back
not a quick lift

TODDOL

Did you test this with the rubber plug installed? Try it again without the plug and see if the ram comes out all the way. Sometimes, as oil comes out of the reservoir to push the ram out, a vacuum is created in the reservoir. The more oil is pumped out of the reservoir, the greater the vacuum, until at some point the pump piston is unable to draw oil from the reservoir, it simply can not overcome the vacuum. If you test it without the plug and it works OK, you will need to install some type of breather. If your jack is like the one shown in the tutorial, you will have to drill a new hole on the reservoir tube, one or two inches in front of the actual hole, to install the breather as the handle yoke is exactly over the oil fill hole when the handle is up and there isn't enough space to fit the breather under the handle yoke. Did you use a new o-ring for the pump piston? Sometimes a new o-ring can overcome the reservoir vacuum.

In other situations you may have air pressure built up in the reservoir after using the jack a couple of times. In this situation if you have any leaking O-rings, the air pressure will push oil out. So it is a good idea to have a breather in the pump. This allows the pump to work better, the reason some of the better jacks use breathers.

Do you have any pictures of the u-cup mounted on the ram? What was the size you finally bought? See below an example of a breather that may be used on floor jacks.
I'm disabled. I can only work at this for a couple hrs at a tiime. I also cant spell time. I'll get to everything suggested as soon as I can. I'll let you know.

Well I'm just checking in glad to see Todd got his machining done and jack put back...me well still waiting on my u cups from MFP. Was suppose to be shipped on May 28 but after a week of waiting emailed them on lt to find out "supposedly" inventory was off and they should ship this week. Funny as I emailed them when purchased to make sure all would ship from same place and they said they had them and would ship from the Troy branch.

Had to get all my parts and put them in a container of oil as its starting to rust now. May have to take Hiball up on his offer of used shells as the longer I wait greater chance of parts gone missing / me forgetting where I put them...rough getting old.
wd40, pb, reg oil. Just coat the parts. I would take a stainless brush and clean the surface rust off the areas you can reach. The lube will probably get rid of the rest. You might as well keep on waiting. Are you gonna have to have any work done to your ram?
 
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