Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

[Hiball]

Thanks Hiball. I’ll tear it down later this week and get some pictures. There was no o-ring inside, just that plastic piece. I have been paying close attention to the fluid track (it was at the top before I tore it down but now right at the bottom).

In the meantime, what is that called (an oil seal)? And how tight is that nut supposed to be?

I’ll look at that loctite 518 as I’ve never used it (I have used permatex gasket maker), but again how tight do I make the tank nut?

Finally, is there something I should check on that weep hole or anything else having been overextended? I am not sure where the weep hole is.

The Oring on the reservoir wouldn’t be at the base, it would be higher up, generally they seal 1/2”-3/4” up. It wouldn’t be a oil seal, it’s more than likely just a poly/nylon compression seal. If it doesn’t utilize O-rings on the bottom or the top (normally on the outside of the tank nut) it will need to be pretty tight to seal. In regards to the weep hole, just look at the seal, sometimes in these mass produced items they don’t clean up the hole/groove and when that seal travels under pressure over the relief it will damage the seal.

Awaiting some pictures..

 

[Sledhead70]

So apparently I need to post 5 times before I can submit pictures.

 

[Sledhead70]

I have 5 pictures showing the ram, tank, nut, and body including the seal.

 

[Sledhead70]

Ugh, one more post.

 

[Sledhead70]

Hopefully these pictures show you what you need to see. Thanks!

 

[Sledhead70]

Do I have to wait for pictures to show up? I did a link for each one to a public Dropbox folder.

 

[Hiball]

Hopefully these pictures show you what you need to see. Thanks!

I’m not seeing any pictures, but I followed the link to your Dropbox page and got a peek. If your getting leakage at either end of the reservoir it’s probably a issue of the tank nut not being tight enough. The main ram seal is the less than desirable Oring/Retainer type, Did you see any damage on the lip of the seal?

In regards to the pictures, you can manually upload them thru the forum software or use a hosting service, I’m not up to speed on Dropbox and what service they offer in regards to hosting pictures.

 

[Sledhead70]

No damage on the ram seal that I can see. The leak only comes from the body to tank mate with that plastic seal. I used a massive wrench that is about 2.5 ft long and tightened pretty good. I guess I can crank down some more.

I’ll have to call HPS tomorrow and see if they have something to upgrade my seals.

 

[Hiball]

No damage on the ram seal that I can see. The leak only comes from the body to tank mate with that plastic seal. I used a massive wrench that is about 2.5 ft long and tightened pretty good. I guess I can crank down some more.

I’ll have to call HPS tomorrow and see if they have something to upgrade my seals.

I would make sure that both ends of the reservoir are flat with no burs etc, as I stated earlier a little loctite 518 will work wonders on metal to metal contact areas.

In regards to your seal and upgrading to a Ucup, it will require some machine work to allow the seal to sit uniform and then you will need to machine a groove to accept a snap ring to keep the seal from slipping off the end. It may not be worth your trouble, unless that is a skill set you carry with a available lathe. The OEM seal is still available, but here again, depending on how much you like the jack, you will need to decide how far you want to go/invest. If it was mine, the seal looks good, I would work on getting that reservoir sealed up and use it.

Hope this helps..

 

[Sledhead70]

Thanks, that helps me quite a bit. My brother has a machine shop so if it comes to it I can consider it. I’ll try the 518 first, but would I use it on both sides of the plastic ring or use it in place of?

 

[Hiball]

Thanks, that helps me quite a bit. My brother has a machine shop so if it comes to it I can consider it. I’ll try the 518 first, but would I use it on both sides of the plastic ring or use it in place of?

Unless that ring has a visible crack, I would reuse it and not use any sealant. I would use some on the tank nut end where it meets the reservoir and make sure you get it tight enough. I would then clean it up, let it sit, watching for leaks prior to putting back in the jack. If you continue to have issues at the base you can use the 518, but that plastic ring aids in keeping the reservoir centered and absorbs any imperfection on the mating surface. If tightened enough it should prevent any leakage.

 

[peteco]

Has anyone rebuilt a Costco Arcan 3.25 ton floor jack? Mine starts to lift the car but stalls out during the lift.

 

[jeffracarpenter]

I have the Sears and Roebuck floor jack model 328.12001 AAANNNDDDD the teeth have broke off I need to know the size of the release valve gear so I can replace it. There's a few online average 25-30 but I don't want to waste money if it's not compatible HELP ME GUYS!!

 

[treestand]

HI my name is Chris and I need help to find parts for my floor jack it is old orange and white and is a 21/4 ton. I need the Gears that control the tightening of the floor jack to make it go up and down if anyone knows where to get them very much appreciated and thanks for your help

 

[HCRCnow]

HI my name is Chris and I need help to find parts for my floor jack it is old orange and white and is a 21/4 ton. I need the Gears that control the tightening of the floor jack to make it go up and down if anyone knows where to get them very much appreciated and thanks for your help

The best way to get the correct parts is letting us know the manufacture and model number. We have a few.

 

[treestand]

That is the problem I do not know what the model or model # is the tag has worn off from years of use I did measure the diameter of the pieces and one measured 44 mm and the other measured 42 mm in size is there a good website to find them on seems like it is hard to find parts for old machines like this thanks for your help Chris

 

[Hiball]

That is the problem I do not know what the model or model # is the tag has worn off from years of use I did measure the diameter of the pieces and one measured 44 mm and the other measured 42 mm in size is there a good website to find them on seems like it is hard to find parts for old machines like this thanks for your help Chris

Call the number in my signature, Steve will be able to help based off some dimensions.

 

[treestand]

After I wrote this question I looked again on the net and I found them ordered them and if they are not the right ones I will call to find the right ones thank you for getting back to me and thanks for your help with this

 

[swegmike]

windswept,
Can't pm until one post made.

I came across your posts on page 12 about your jack and the pictures on photobucket.

Photobucket posts on this forum are made fuzzy by them. Moreover, when I go to the photobucket link that contains your album of pics, it complains about my ad blocker. When it is turned off (temporarily) it shows me your pics clearly, but before I can view them or blow them up, I get attacked by photobuckets ad on spam, and being told to buy stuff that is just a hoax constantly. I.e buy iphone 11 for $1, galaxy s10 $1, and as the webpage is closed another one replaces it. Thus, cant view your pics.

Can you just replace all your links to photobucket and upload them to garagejournals website so they will have them forever without the ads? (Of course one needs an account with them to see them. One can't view as guest).

Nice If all photobucket pics and various other sites used just uploaded and stored them on this website. Of course, one could keep their own copy where they want.

Thanks.

 

[swegmike]

I have a Sears 3 Ton jack MFG April 1988. It has two heavy duty return springs that are easy to get off using a screw driver. However, getting them back on isn't easy particularly in the tight spaces and when one is on and there is tension from the first one while trying to get the second one on. So far, I didn't see any posts stating how to do this for those doing it for first time.

Thus, to get mine on I searched google and came across two tools, the first being the cheapest. Amazon has them, and only advance auto has it. The second tool is used for drum brakes. I have both, but used only the first one and I think it would get in there easier than the second tool (didn't try second tool).

I tried to post links, but my count isn't 5. seems kinda of dumb to have this restriction considering one may be asking a question with a link to a pic of their jack or to a website that has the picture in an owners manual of their jack etc.

a. brake spring hook tool

b. brake spring plier

 

[Hiball]

I have a Sears 3 Ton jack MFG April 1988. It has two heavy duty return springs that are easy to get off using a screw driver. However, getting them back on isn't easy particularly in the tight spaces and when one is on and there is tension from the first one while trying to get the second one on. So far, I didn't see any posts stating how to do this for those doing it for first time.

Thus, to get mine I searched google and came across two tools, the first being the cheapest. Amazon has them, and only advance auto has it. The second tool is used for drum brakes. I have both, but used only the first one and I think it would get in there easier than the second tool (didn't try second tool).

I tried to post links, but my count isn't 5. seems kinda of dumb to have this restriction considering one may be asking a question with a link to a pic of their jack or to a website that has the picture in an owners manual of their jack etc.

a. brake spring hook tool

b. brake spring plier

I always install mine before I fold the hydraulic unit back up inside the frame rails, this way the springs are compressed and you don’t need to fight tension and cramped quarters.

 

[swegmike]

3rd post.

My Sears 3Ton jack 214.12300 is missing the safety/overload valve spring and needle valve, or the spring ball bearing and cap seat. I have the inner screw with *** which was screwed all the way down. I've had this jack since I bought it new, thus it came from the factory with these missing pieces, and was being fixed recently for leaking after 32 years of light use.

Is there somewhere I could get either of these parts configurations? It doesn't matter which way for this jack since both do the same job. (of course adjustment will be needed)

The spring pics on the forum show 7 turns on the spring. I could measure the second inner screw *** to get the inner diameter needed for the spring, and the OD from the safety valve hole as a starting point and calculate the cross section if needed from these two numbers.

Needle valves via google seem to come with the pipes, and can be rated up to 10K PSI. So one could buy one, cut it apart and make a needle valve rod type part from it if needed. A machine shop could make the *** needed from this part. Thus, what would be the height of the conical part of the needle and the angle/tapper needed?

 

[Hiball]

3rd post.

My Sears 3Ton jack 214.12300 is missing the safety/overload valve spring and needle valve, or the spring ball bearing and cap seat. I have the inner screw with *** which was screwed all the way down. I've had this jack since I bought it new, thus it came from the factory with these missing pieces, and was being fixed recently for leaking after 32 years of light use.

Is there somewhere I could get either of these parts configurations? It doesn't matter which way for this jack since both do the same job. (of course adjustment will be needed)

The spring pics on the forum show 7 turns on the spring. I could measure the second inner screw *** to get the inner diameter need for the spring, and the OD from the safety valve hole as a starting point and calculate the cross section if needed from these two numbers.

Needle valves via google seem to come with the pipes, and can be rated up to 10K PSI. So one could buy one, cut it apart and make a needle valve rod type part from it if needed. A machine shop could make the *** needed from this part. Thus, what would be the height of the conical part of the needle and the angle/tapper needed?

It’s impossible for the jack to operate without the overload assembly, thus it was either lost or the components are still in the hole down deep.

Double check.

 

[swegmike]

I always install mine before I fold the hydraulic unit back up inside the frame rails, this way the springs are compressed and you don’t need to fight tension and cramped quarters.

I tried to do that. Both ends of the springs were looped thru the holes in the power unit box. However, everytime, I raised the lift part to to get at them, the rod would extend since it was already attached to the rails with the tie rod pin.
If, I tried without the rod attached to the rails, I'd have to pull really hard (due to the springs being attached) to try and get the rail end over the rod end even though the rod is all the way into the reservoir cylinder and then have a problem trying to reuse and insert the tie rod pin.

So in the end the "brake spring hook tool" worked the easiest to get them back on.

Thanks.

 

[Hiball]

I tried to do that. Both ends of the springs were looped thru the holes in the power unit box. However, everytime, I raised the lift part to to get at them, the rod would extend since it was already attached to the rails with the tie rod pin.
If, I tried without the rod attached to the rails, I'd have to pull really hard (due to the springs being attached) to try and get the rail end over the rod end even though the rod is all the way into the reservoir cylinder and then have a problem trying to reuse and insert the tie rod pin.

So in the end the "brake spring hook tool" worked the easiest to get them back on.

Thanks.

Picture for reference. Once you get them installed, you lift the frame and fold it back over the hydraulic unit.

 

[swegmike]

It’s impossible for the jack to operate without the overload assembly, thus it was either lost or the components are still in the hole down deep.

Double check.

Right now, it doesn't have them. The inner screw is set to 2.5 turns based on readings on forum. I'll have to reset to 1.5 turns based on later postings. Currently it won't go up after orings and seals replaced, that was part of the problem along with leaking.
So I'll have to turn the inner valve down all the way like before such that the *** goes in the hole at the bottom of this chamber Since tightening this inner screw under normal conditions increases the amount of weight the jack can handle (assuming no seals give out by then). But for my case with no springs and ball bearing or needle valve, it will act like it has no safety valve and take alot of weight. (hence the jack should go up then and work like it did all these years). I'm not sure if the tip of a needle valve protrudes below the lower hole so that it closes the channel below it, and allow more fluid to get into the main pump and when over pressure raise the needle to open up the channel to let fluid go back into the reservoir so it doesn't get into the main pump section. Thus, since mine has this hole, a ball bearing type system I think won't work.

I can't post pics til I get to 5 posts to show you what this valve area looks like.

Hopefully a friend I lent the jack to didn't play with this area of the jack trying to fix something.

Thus, for the Sears 3 Ton jacks of the 70's,80's, 90's and 2000's, what were the typical safety valve configurations used, ball bearing, or needle valve and when did they switch between the two if this is the case?

 

[swegmike]

Picture for reference. Once you get them installed, you lift the frame and fold it back over the hydraulic unit.

Ok, I see what you did. Sigh!

I did it the hard way.....

 

[swegmike]

Since there has been discussion that a tool is needed to reset the safety/overload screw by the factory, I came across this posting on youtube where they show how its done. This is the only video I could find. I thought they put a measured weight on jack to calibrate the jack, but in this case they use the jack to press against a pressure sensor that tells them what the weight being lifted is (like a reverse press). When the load is reached on the safety valve, the numbers don't increase. They can adjust the screw as needed.

It might be a good home project to buy an electronic pressure transducer and attach it to i.e. harbor freight press, then attach sensor to computer or wireless and read the numbers on the computer display or smartphone while the jack is pumped up to compress the electronic pressure transducer. The HW press is just something that is heavy enough to prevent it from moving. Or make a contraption that works like a bearing press.

 

[swegmike]

When looking for UCUP seals for the main ram in my jack, I came across different types of UCUPS which are poly urethane.

a. Some where symmetrical and others not.
b. The other variation in ucups being sold as jack repair kits, are unloaded and loaded ucups.

The pics in this forum are symmetrical unloaded ucups plus the thinner ones used for lower tonnage.


Does it matter in either case above which one is used?

Lower capacity jacks have the thinner ucup called piston cup vs. the heavy duty ones.

As for orings, I guess all jacks use the BUNA 70 nitrile orings since the sizes available are greater vs. the Buna 90 orings. So 70 is softer than 90 (shoe rubber hardness). Haven't seen anything in the 50 or below (pencil eraser softness) being used.

As for the plastic rings called backing rings. I've found it hard to find the split backing rings. Although the rings are white colored, forum postings state they are nylon. I'd think jacks use PTFE (a form of teflon), or Hytrel (a brownish looking color) since they take heat and abrasion more than nylon.

Not sure what rod wipers material types (or oil seals) are used in jacks since mine doesn't have one. It uses an oring as the rod wiper (cheaper).

 

[Hiball]

Since there has been discussion that a tool is needed to reset the safety/overload screw by the factory, I came across this posting on youtube where they show how its done. This is the only video I could find. I thought they put a measured weight on jack to calibrate the jack, but in this case they use the jack to press against a pressure sensor that tells them what the weight being lifted is (like a reverse press). When the load is reached on the safety valve, the numbers don't increase. They can adjust the screw as needed.

It might be a good home project to buy an electronic pressure transducer and attach it to i.e. harbor freight press, then attach sensor to computer or wireless and read the numbers on the computer display or smartphone while the jack is pumped up to compress the electronic pressure transducer. The HW press is just something that is heavy enough to prevent it from moving. Or make a contraption that works like a bearing press.

Its essentially the same setup outside of mine having a Analog dial gauge and no fancy music plays when I use it.. I’ve helped a few people with building there’s so they could make there millions, once you get a frame built, you take a one way cylinder/ram mount it vertically in the frame, Fill with oil, plumb in a PSI/Ton gauge + some math and your all set. I’m not sure what a electronic pressure transducer would cost, but the one I have is fairly cheap to construct and maintain.

 

[Hiball]

When looking for UCUP seals for the main ram in my jack, I came across different types of UCUPS.
a. Some where symmetrical and others not.
b. The other variation in ucups being sold as jack repair kits, are unloaded and loaded ucups.

The pics in this forum are symmetrical unloaded ucups plus the thinner ones used for lower tonnage.


Does it matter in either case above which one is used?

Lower capacity jacks have the thinner ucup vs. the heavy duty ones.

As for orings, I guess all jacks use the BUNA 70 nitrile orings since the sizes available are greater vs. the Buna 90 orings. So 70 is softer than 90 (shoe rubber hardness). Haven't seen anything in the 50 or below (pencil eraser softness) being used.

As for the plastic rings called backing rings. I've found it hard to find the split backing rings. Although the rings are white colored, forum postings state they are nylon. I'd think jacks use PTFE (a form of teflon), or Hytrel (a brownish looking color) since they take heat and abrasion more than nylon.

I’ve found that Loaded Ucups in Main Ram applications generally create too much drag that the springs can’t overcome, so generally I remove the energizer ring to use it as a normal Ucup. In pump piston applications, I leave the energizer in place to aid in creating vacuum on the upstroke, especially in applications where there aren’t any seals above the piston seal. In regards to Symmetrical or Non I’ve never had any issues as long as the seal will work in the application Piston/rod.

In regards to the thickness of the Ucups in relation to there tonnage, It has less to do with capacity and more so with manufacturers trying to control the longevity of there products. Case and point... your sears jack probably has a 10-12mm thick Ucup and is rated for 3ton, the New Dayton 3.5 ton jacks have a 5-6mm 2 piece piston seal. They both are capable of the PSI required to handle the tonnage, but today’s market isn’t interested in manufacturing products to last 30 years.

 

[swegmike]

Yes my 3 TON Sears jack had 22x40x12mm ucup in it which was green. However, not all ucups are colored green (assuming the hydraulic oil didn't discolor it with age). The replacement was black, and some sites have blue. I don't think the color is added by the mfg as an indication of the type of material used or size, or type(color coding), or the resulting color due to the mixing of the materials that turns out to be due to chemical reaction.

Here's what I had looked at for a seal which is a loaded ucup. Since my original ucup wasn't loaded, I didn't get this one. However, their part number MUUL (metric ucup unloaded) seems to indicate otherwise.
https://www.blackhawkparts.com/product1548.html

 

[Hiball]

Yes my 3 TON Sears jack had 22x40x12mm ucup in it which was green. However, not all ucups are colored green (assuming the hydraulic oil didn't discolor it with age). The replacement was black, and some sites have blue. I don't think the color is added by the mfg an indication of the type of material used or size, or type(color coding), or the resulting color due to the mixing of the materials that it turns out to be due to chemical reaction.

Here's what I had looked at for a seal which is a loaded ucup. Since my original ucup wasn't loaded, I didn't get this one. However, their part number MUUL (metric ucup unloaded) seems to indicate otherwise.
https://www.blackhawkparts.com/product1548.html

I buy the loaded version in 22x44x12 and remove the energizer, they are like 2.75 from MArtin fluid power in bulk. I never rely on color, Correct application Piston or Rod and the correct Material to handle the PSI required which would be urethane in this case.

 

[swegmike]

windswept4 had posted around page 12 his tear down of a blackjack floor jack. It is a very close match to my Sears 3 ton jack. His safety valve is a needle/conical valve. See https://s1104.photobucket.com/user/windswept4/library/Hydraulic Floor Jack?page=1

However, he didn't do a tear down of the release spinner which has an oring within the housing. Also, there is no tear down of how to get the ball bearing out of the release valve compartment in the power unit. I can see what looks like a white washer that may be holding the black keyed washer thing in my jack, which looks like the photobucket pics.

How is this taken apart to get to the ball bearing inside?
Which parts are replaceable and which are reusable?
I assume the washer that has the half semicircle/moon in it is reused. I don't want to force it and damage the parts if they need to be reused.

 

[Hiball]

windswept4 had posted around page 12 his tear down of a blackjack floor jack. It is a very close match to my Sears 3 ton jack. His safety valve is a needle/conical valve. See https://s1104.photobucket.com/user/windswept4/library/Hydraulic Floor Jack?page=1

However, he didn't do a tear down of the release spinner which has an oring within the housing. Also, there is no tear down of how to get the ball bearing out of the release valve compartment in the power unit. I can see what looks like a white washer that may be holding the black keyed washer thing in my jack, which looks like the photobucket pics.

How is this taken apart to get to the ball bearing inside?
Which parts are replaceable and which are reusable?
I assume the washer that has the half semicircle/moon in it is reused. I don't want to force it and damage the parts if they need to be reused.

In regards to the overload assembly, You will need to visually inspect the seat to see if uses a Ball or Needle style, they are visually different.

Once you unscrew the release assembly from the block, you will either have a needle assembly with a Hex shank that fits a washer or a Hex/washer with ball for a seat. The washer assembly simply is removed with a small pick, There are a variety a variations in this style and almost all parts can be reused.

 

[swegmike]

Does it matter whether stainless steel 304 or chrome ball bearings are used in the jack? They are about the same price.

What is it called when a nlyon/teflon washer has the outside edge higher than the rest of the washer on the width? The reason I ask is I have one as if the washer was crushed down but the outside edge (a hair line) was missed by whatever was crushing the washer. I thought it might be a flanged nylon/PTFE washer but cant find a match. Another possibility is that it might be a piston [cup] washer like the piston ucup??
It looks like this picture, but I don't know if the pic isn't just a bad pic of the washer. See the outside edge (this looks like mine). But if you do the 360 spin of the pic, it looks like any other washer.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Nylon-Washers-2-Piece-815138/204276106


I'm trying to find out the spinner release washer material that was used. It is flexible and not stiff like plastic and is clear. I'm guessing vinyl flat washer that is clear, or polyurethane. update: I think they are more VMQ silicon flat washer/gasket with a shore rating 50-70.

 

[Hiball]

Does it matter whether stainless steel 304 or chrome ball bearings are used in the jack? They are about the same price.

What is it called when a nlyon/teflon washer has the outside edge higher than the rest of the washer on the width? The reason I ask is I have one as if the washer was crushed down but the outside edge (a hair line) was missed by whatever was crushing the washer. I thought it might be a flanged nylon/PTFE washer but cant find a match. Another possibility is that it might be a piston [cup] washer like the piston ucup??
It looks like this picture, but I don't know if the pic isn't just a bad pic of the washer. See the outside edge (this looks like mine). But if you do the 360 spin of the pic, it looks like any other washer.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Nylon-Washers-2-Piece-815138/204276106


I'm trying to find out the spinner release washer material that was used. It is flexible and not stiff like plastic and is clear. I'm guessing vinyl flat washer that is clear, or polyurethane.

It’s been a day since I’ve bought valve balls due to the large quantities they come in, but they are friendly with magnets so I’d rule out SS but definitely Polished. I can’t say I’ve ever needed to replace the washer under release mechanism, so can’t help you there. Did you lose it? Its not vital pressure point for the jack as the ball/seat holds the pressure till it lifts and then the pressure is guided towards the reservoir. I have on occasion have needed to add a Oring that matches the OD of the washer if I notice any seepage at the threads.

 

[James66]

Hey
Hope this is ok

I'm across the pond jn the uk, a nation which is terrible for just throwing out rather than repair/rebuild but I'm not that way
In light of this parts etc for Jacks are not so easy to get

I have an old orange jack that my dad bought mid 80's, same as the old green/white sears 328

Been sat in the corner about 10 years so yesterday decided enough was enough
Jack it up, goes down, topped up no difference
when was up i decided to stand on it to feel resistance but noticed when I stood on it the filler bung was holding all the pressure & would drop quicker if I squeezed the bung to allow vent
Removed the ram assembly, tank nut off & withdrew the piston/ram to find the cup seal in 3 pieces
Local hydraulic place ordered me one yesterday, turned ul today & fitted it, felt positive as when slid into the bore it had good seal, all back together, oil filled.......no different
Can get it to lift but comes back down, lowering speed doesnt change if I rotate handle but also if handle is rotated fully anti clockwise I can still jack it up??

The seal they ordered me was a 40x22x10 which seems right

Is there anything you can help with please?
Cant bring myself to throwing out a good quality jack

Thanks
James

 

[Hiball]

When you say is “lifts” but falls down are we talking under load or just the lift arm? Next how far is it lifting? Can you get it to go full extension if you keep pumping? Does it have the proper amount of oil and did you bleed it?

 

[James66]

I can get it up to full extension but not with any load at all, it will try lowering inbetween pumps & once fully extended it will lower semi slowly under it's own weight
It lowers much slower than when a return valve is open


Also when handle is turned anti clockwise to open release valve it doesnt drop any faster & I can still pump it up

Yes filled & bled, tried for about 20 mins cycling it & checking oil level