Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.
- Thread starter Hiball
- Start date
That Ill rep'd Hiball took his toys and Ran, I apologize for any inconvenience but the local kids where stealing my toys.
csp
Well-known member
Same thing with the info on the Snap-On jack rebuild tutorial?
boomerangg22
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2009
- Messages
- 264
Tear it down and check the Main Ram cup for splitting etc... Not every problem can be fixed by tinkering with the Valve system.
ogm94
Member
PM sent.....
anodyne33
Well-known member
anodyne33
Well-known member
I am. It doesn't have anything to grab onto at the base. So just turn it till it stops and grab it with vice grips and keep going?
It may not stop, I suspect its just stuck inside. Once you get it unthreaded just give it a little side to side/Up tug. It looks a bit rusty so a little penetrating oil might help. Also try not to damage the Gear as its a Odd-Ball..
anodyne33
Well-known member
Nope. I turn it either direction and it just stops like in normal operation of the valve. It looks like it's just pressed in but I could be wrong.
boomerangg22
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- Jun 20, 2009
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I think I found the problem with my jack today. Doesn't look like the Larin jack uses steel balls. Plus I'm one of those idiots and all the balls fell out except the broken one (which is the release valve ball) and I'm not sure where they go LOL
guess I'll be buying a new jack as soon as the funds are available.
guess I'll be buying a new jack as soon as the funds are available.
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boomerangg22
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- Jun 20, 2009
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Don't suppose you'd know the size of the busted ball bearing?
All Manufacturers are Different, It looks like there is enough there to get a decent measurement.
KrisKustomPaint
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- Sep 8, 2010
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- 99
Great tech thread. I'm tearing one apart right now. Hiball - I might be calling you for seals, we'll see shortly.
KrisKustomPaint
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- Sep 8, 2010
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- 99
Success!!! Took it all apart, couldn't see anything particularly wrong. cleaned everything up. Put it back together, filled it up with oil. Works like a champ! Thanks again for the informative thread.
hiball,
Thanks for the be best article on hydrolic jacks on the web.
I have small larin floor jack- do not know how many tons- and it stopped working,after it leaked oild when one day the piston came out. I tried to put hydrolic oil .
I opened the screw that was next to the piston, and noticed a heavy spring and a small ball that came out and fell on the table without my noticing it.
Was there another ball do you think in there which may have fell on the floor; which way the ball sits when you put it back? is that spring directional. when i put it in it went
inside the spring.
I tried adding oil and closed it and opened the rubber tap on the top and put more oil till it was flush. I filled it first with the piston compressed down no working than filled oil with piston comressed up no working. what am I doing wrong. Please help.
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hiball,
Thanks for the be best article on hydrolic jacks on the web.
I have small larin floor jack- do not know how many tons- and it stopped working,after it leaked oild when one day the piston came out. I tried to put hydrolic oil .
I opened the screw that was next to the piston, and noticed a heavy spring and a small ball that came out and fell on the table without my noticing it.
Was there another ball do you think in there which may have fell on the floor; which way the ball sits when you put it back? is that spring directional. when i put it in it went
inside the spring.
I tried adding oil and closed it and opened the rubber tap on the top and put more oil till it was flush. I filled it first with the piston compressed down no working than filled oil with piston comressed up no working. what am I doing wrong. Please help.
Always Add Oil when the Cylinder is Retracted (Down), Do you have a picture of the spring and Ball? Actual Picture of the Valve location where you removed the plug? If the Ball is entering the Spring you have something out of Kelter.
I have a red Hein-Werner 2 Ton Hydraulic Service Jack in Calgary that looks similar but for the Release Valve, which ends not in a tapered needle but rather a round rod that extends about 1 inch down the tube/hole and ends in a flat surface, with a dimple, that presumably would engage a steel ball own the Release valve chamber. The jack was in the garbage (presumable the cost to overhaul was not economic). All i Know to date is that oil looks not bad, but won't lift and the release handle and gear spin freely with no stop or resistance or effect. Don't know if other problems exist yet. I assume there is no release ball there to engage. Can I get overhaul kit. Herin=Werner red 2 ton jack, gives US address, then refers to Ajax (near Torotno), Ontario Canada and then refers to China. Also the decal refers to PARTS CODE 68512. I could email photos. If I could get parts, how hard could it be to fix (I've done Master and Slave cylinder Clutch overhauls on my Triumph convertible with no problem.) Can I get parts or diagram. I see no model number on the jack housing. Economic to repair?
Thanks Mik in Calgay
I dont believe there will be a Kit available but i can promise all the individual parts are available and all seals can be replaced for less than $30 bucks easily. If the release valve is Flat/Dimpled on the Bottom there needs to be a ball in there. Without a picture i cant verify if your jack is in condition to rebuild but i can say that even the Winner series is Heavier built versus the newer Import stuff.
Thanks Hiball. I have a couple of very heavy Shurlift 2-1/4 ton jacks (regular and extended length) second hand from Princess Auto that work fine so I will send photos when i get around to cleaning and opening up the Hein-Werner. Wasn't impressed with cleanliness or service or pricing at hydraulic service businesses here ... no wonder people just buy Chinese jacks. I nevertheless hate to scrap something that should be easily repairable or at least useful for parts. I plan to repair or restore it at my leisure ... when I get around to it. Thanks so much for your guidance. Mike
Any reason to open the relief valve during my rebuild? I know there is no good way to reset them to the proper pressure. This jack was leaking down and getting worse BUT it leaks down with no load as well as with a load, and if anything, it leaks faster with no load. I conclude from this that the relief valve is not the issue. Also, the main seal is rock hard and has a couple of small cracks running longitudinal down it, so I am sure the main seal is most of the problem.
Sears 1.5 ton jack circa 1983. MANY THANKS to Hiball. I owe you an adult beverage of your choice if we ever meet for this writeup!
Dave M
Sears 1.5 ton jack circa 1983. MANY THANKS to Hiball. I owe you an adult beverage of your choice if we ever meet for this writeup!
Dave M
Any reason to open the relief valve during my rebuild? I know there is no good way to reset them to the proper pressure. This jack was leaking down and getting worse BUT it leaks down with no load as well as with a load, and if anything, it leaks faster with no load. I conclude from this that the relief valve is not the issue. Also, the main seal is rock hard and has a couple of small cracks running longitudinal down it, so I am sure the main seal is most of the problem.
Sears 1.5 ton jack circa 1983. MANY THANKS to Hiball. I owe you an adult beverage of your choice if we ever meet for this writeup!
Dave M
Measurements of the Cup? IN MM, I will need the ID, OD and Thickness.
thanks for taking the time to help. very educational. I have a 3 1/2 ton speedy lift jack. (sams club) lots of adjustment screws no more speedy lift.Takes forever to pump it up.Any help would be greatly appreciated. long on pump short on smarts. thanks
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Well I was inspired by reading this long thread. Inspired, but I also remembered the old saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it !"
I have an old 1.5 ton Sears jack (looks like az10sbum's jack 2 posts back). It won't pump to full height and it was covered in oily dirt. So it was one of the first warmish days in SE MI and I was not busy so I decided to disassemble it, clean the outside and refill it.
It took me about 3 hours. Lots of dirt to clean off (WD40 and rags). Then I could not find any jack oil (I swear I had some) so off to Wally World. Finally, I had to "chase" the thread on one bolt and hole.
Filled up the jack, greased a few pivot points, and reassembled (a bit tricky getting that handle spring in). Tests so far show no leaks !
I have an old 1.5 ton Sears jack (looks like az10sbum's jack 2 posts back). It won't pump to full height and it was covered in oily dirt. So it was one of the first warmish days in SE MI and I was not busy so I decided to disassemble it, clean the outside and refill it.
It took me about 3 hours. Lots of dirt to clean off (WD40 and rags). Then I could not find any jack oil (I swear I had some) so off to Wally World. Finally, I had to "chase" the thread on one bolt and hole.
Filled up the jack, greased a few pivot points, and reassembled (a bit tricky getting that handle spring in). Tests so far show no leaks !
limitwheel
New member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2011
- Messages
- 1
I've just joined this site to finally get my hydraulic jack fixed. It's the challenge I've always liked. I've included some photos of what I'm looking for. The cup seal measurements are as follows: OD= 24mm, ID= 16mm,
overall thickness = 9.5mm, plunger is 16mm, the o-ring is 2.5mm thick. I know the o-ring can be gotten easily but the cup seal is the problem. The plastic backup ring seems fine. Any help would be appreciated.
overall thickness = 9.5mm, plunger is 16mm, the o-ring is 2.5mm thick. I know the o-ring can be gotten easily but the cup seal is the problem. The plastic backup ring seems fine. Any help would be appreciated.
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Dave's
Member
I've been rebuilding jacks and cyls since the early 80's. Must be you do to. Good job! I've got a place where i can get just about every metric cup or seal. Any problems give me a shout.
Next seal is the Main Ram seal, IMPORTANT***** Make sure you pry from the inside Out as illustrated, Do Not get into that outer shell on the sealing surface. These are Harder to find and generally dont go bad unless someone gets rough with them. You will need to inspect the sealing lip to make sure there isnt any splits, rough areas etc.
Once you remove the Oring the outer shell will slip right off. You now have your jack completely tore down and your ready to find replacement seals. I recomend finding a local Hydraulic shop and they should have everything you require. If your jack is Older 15+ years you might have a Ucup on the end instead of the one shown. If it has good suction and seal by sliding it in and out of the cylinder i wouldnt mess with replacing it unless it is extremely hard and showing stress cracks etc. Also dont try and remove it unless your intentions are to replace because they snap on and with any age they break off. Im sure ive left something out so if you have any questions feel free to ask and will get it figured out. Enjoy the Write up and i hope you guys can benefit from this.
Hiball.
Tools used to dismantle the Jack.
Dave's
Member
I've been rebuilding jacks and cyls since the early 80's. Must be you do to. Good job! I've got a place where i can get just about every metric cup or seal. Any problems give me a shout.
Next seal is the Main Ram seal, IMPORTANT***** Make sure you pry from the inside Out as illustrated, Do Not get into that outer shell on the sealing surface. These are Harder to find and generally dont go bad unless someone gets rough with them. You will need to inspect the sealing lip to make sure there isnt any splits, rough areas etc.
Once you remove the Oring the outer shell will slip right off. You now have your jack completely tore down and your ready to find replacement seals. I recomend finding a local Hydraulic shop and they should have everything you require. If your jack is Older 15+ years you might have a Ucup on the end instead of the one shown. If it has good suction and seal by sliding it in and out of the cylinder i wouldnt mess with replacing it unless it is extremely hard and showing stress cracks etc. Also dont try and remove it unless your intentions are to replace because they snap on and with any age they break off. Im sure ive left something out so if you have any questions feel free to ask and will get it figured out. Enjoy the Write up and i hope you guys can benefit from this.
Hiball.
Tools used to dismantle the Jack.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
I think Hiballs grandpaw started working on jacks when they were ratcheting mechanical jacks before juice jacks came out. Come to think of it, Hiball might be getting that old....
1stwarrior95
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- Joined
- Dec 29, 2007
- Messages
- 647
Come to think of it, Hiball might be getting that old....
Ouch! LOL
Hiball is still a young man. At least he was when I met him few months ago... LOL
Or maybe I'm just older than I thought....
Sick Puppy
Well-known member
Hiball, thank you for putting this tutorial/thread up! It's taught me like so many others a whole heaps about those lumps of iron that lift up larger hunks of iron. 
I purchased an overseas jack, not taiwanese, but English, and I'll post pics and details when I get a mo. Of course, me being me (tired, and looking at numbers not specs), I purchased a 3500 lb jack, not a 3500 kg[/] jack - D'oh!
Oh well, I watched it lift a landcruiser without any hassle and it didn't move/lower, I figure it will do! 
I purchased an overseas jack, not taiwanese, but English, and I'll post pics and details when I get a mo. Of course, me being me (tired, and looking at numbers not specs), I purchased a 3500 lb jack, not a 3500 kg[/] jack - D'oh!
Oh well, I watched it lift a landcruiser without any hassle and it didn't move/lower, I figure it will do! I am repairing my 1978 Sears 1 1/2 ton jack and have a question on the pump seals. There are two seals: a formed rubber seal flush with the top of the pump cavity, and an o-ring with backer further down in the hole. Is the seal at the top a pressure seal or is it simply a dust/dirt seal? It looks like it would be hard to find a replacement for this seal so I haven't removed it. If it is a dust seal, it is still functional and will not need to be replaced.
I've attached the Sears schematic for this jack as an aid to reassembly for any members who have this jack design.
I've attached the Sears schematic for this jack as an aid to reassembly for any members who have this jack design.
Great write up! I'm about to attempt to fix a jack that works but looses height over time. One question I have is do you need to remove the overload valve in order to take it apart and access the o-rings? What about the working valve? Is it also necessary to remove this to disassemble the jack to access the o-rings too? Thanks in advance!
No there are no Orings in the working valve or Overload. Occasionally you will find some of these imports that have a Oring on the Plug but that would have nothing to do with the Jack seaping down. If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM.