HiBall, I just wanted to not only thank you for creating this jack thread, but also for being so helpful to us GJ members with all of your information and replies! I'm considering rebuilding one of my old floor jacks now.
Your Welcome..
Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.
- Thread starter Hiball
- Start date
Your Welcome..
How much, if any leakage past the overload ball/spring/screw is permissible or normal? If I clear the oil off the top of the screw, it never comes back until I put it under load and then it seeps. I've tried tapping the ball bearing in the seat gently. I might need a new ball bearing or a harder tap if it is supposed to be dry.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Attachments
![IMG_1254[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/241/241944-fc0d951a849b460f7f28000b863beb3e.jpg)
How far do you have the overload backed off? How much load are you lifting? Its not uncommon to find some oil occasionally under the cap when I tear jacks down, This is why the cap is sealed.
It's a turn and a half back from fully seated. I was lifting a honda Crv by one corner. The dust cover did not have a gasket/washer so I just added one. Hopefully it will quit leaking. It was leaking pretty good overnight after having been under load, but the tension had been backed way off. I'm surprised that it lifted anything like that.
Maybe try a 1/4 turn in and see if it remedies your seepage problem, without a test station its just a guess and if the spring tension is worn it might still be light at 1 1/2 turns.
As always... Jack stands are your friend.
HCRCnow
Well-known member
I'd say so... Nothing too complicated about those telescoping jacks, I suspect its a rebranded HW/Gray and most of those jacks seal at the top end with either orings or rod cups. A picture would be helpful..
Hello, could someone give me advice on my jack?
first of all does anyone know what make of jack this is maybe model too?
im sure its very old?
also i took out this bolt to drain the oil out and replace with new stuff.
as i turned it over a ball bearing fell out, i didnt see anything else fall out but i may have missed it if it did?
i put the new oil in and put the ball bearing back and bolt but now it wont pump up at all?
looking at this thread it looks like maybe ive lost a smaller ball bearing and maybe a spring or springs?
i just dont know?
could anyone give me advice on what i might need to fix it?
thanks
john
first of all does anyone know what make of jack this is maybe model too?
im sure its very old?
also i took out this bolt to drain the oil out and replace with new stuff.
as i turned it over a ball bearing fell out, i didnt see anything else fall out but i may have missed it if it did?
i put the new oil in and put the ball bearing back and bolt but now it wont pump up at all?
looking at this thread it looks like maybe ive lost a smaller ball bearing and maybe a spring or springs?
i just dont know?
could anyone give me advice on what i might need to fix it?
thanks
john
First, that plug is not the oil fill hole, it is a valve plug or cap. Second, it looks like there are two seats in the hole. Can you see two seats there? If so, you are missing a smaller ball. Check again where you drained the oil and look for a small ball. If you find the small ball, do not forget to bleed the jack. Open the release valve and pump the handle from 4 to 8 times (different manufacturers give different numbers) to push the air out.
If it indeed uses a smaller ball and you don't find it, you will have to find a good quality "chrome" ball, bearing quality, not the low carbon general use ball, to replace it.
If it indeed uses a smaller ball and you don't find it, you will have to find a good quality "chrome" ball, bearing quality, not the low carbon general use ball, to replace it.
Its very possible that it didn't use any springs or Weights, I would start with obvious problem and find a replacement ball that sits down in the lower seat and go from there. As already noted that is the Working valve and not the Fill hole, It appears the Jacks reservoir is on the Front end of the Jack and it should be filled via the Next plug up.
Sorry.. Cant help with the identification but it is interesting, Assuming that isn't the stock color? Are you from the US or Overseas?
Hi ive ordered some hardend chrome ball bearings from ebay, the two sizes you recommended to another guy.
Il try the bearing and see if it works.
I actually painted that colour when i was given the jack about 4 years ago.
it was rusty when i got it and i cleaned it up and painted it as i had a tin of that colour paint in the garage that i thought i would use up.
Im in the uk so im guessing it a old english make of jack, i dont remember seeing any id marks on it when i painted it.
its very heavy and very well made and the ram is quite big compared to my chinese sealey jack.
I would like to refurbish it properly at some point.
thanks for you advice, ill let you know how i got on.
cheers
John
Il try the bearing and see if it works.
I actually painted that colour when i was given the jack about 4 years ago.
it was rusty when i got it and i cleaned it up and painted it as i had a tin of that colour paint in the garage that i thought i would use up.
Im in the uk so im guessing it a old english make of jack, i dont remember seeing any id marks on it when i painted it.
its very heavy and very well made and the ram is quite big compared to my chinese sealey jack.
I would like to refurbish it properly at some point.
thanks for you advice, ill let you know how i got on.
cheers
John
thefranks5
New member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2014
- Messages
- 1
Hiball:
Fabulous job documenting this process. My Sears floor jack finally gave up today, with oil leaking on every pump.
It's been a great tool for about 25 years. can't beat that any more.
I'll dig into it tomorrow with your photo documented tour. Great job. Thanking you.
Fabulous job documenting this process. My Sears floor jack finally gave up today, with oil leaking on every pump.
It's been a great tool for about 25 years. can't beat that any more.
I'll dig into it tomorrow with your photo documented tour. Great job. Thanking you.
Alexbn921 I have the same exact jack!
Well I also have a BIG leaky one. Did you just have to replace an O ring on your pump piston?
I guess I need to get mine out again and see exactly where it was leaking from.
I think I'll stay away from all those ball bearing filled holes for now.
Well I also have a BIG leaky one. Did you just have to replace an O ring on your pump piston?
I guess I need to get mine out again and see exactly where it was leaking from.
I think I'll stay away from all those ball bearing filled holes for now.
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artieb
Well-known member
Thank you Hiball. I have been working on my jack which is a twin to the one on the start of this tutorial. My 20 year + is a Pro-lift, G492. It has a 2 Oring which I have replaced. Is there always a plastic split ring back up? Clean oil, no rust, no external leaks.
This jack 20 years ago would only lift 100# at that time, with no load full travel and function to 100#s. I replaced the jack.
And after reading this thread I knew I could repair it.
Would a solid troubleshooting techniques, be if the overload has oil in the chamber, it's leaking? Thank you Artie
This jack 20 years ago would only lift 100# at that time, with no load full travel and function to 100#s. I replaced the jack.
And after reading this thread I knew I could repair it.
Would a solid troubleshooting techniques, be if the overload has oil in the chamber, it's leaking? Thank you Artie
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1st and Foremost you are Welcome, Now to answer you questions, Not all Yasui "based" jacks utilized Backups on the Pump Piston seals. I know of NO rhyme or reason on Which models did and which ones didn't but If your jack didn't have any backups on the Orings and there isn't space in the Groove for a backup, it more than likely didn't utilize them. The Lifting problem could be a overload issue, But it would have to be fairly severe and possibly missing components to max out at the "100#" Mark. Its not uncommon to find some oil on top of the overload, But generally that oil is found when the jack is maxing out on PSI versus the "100#" figure you stated. When you get a full cycle, Will the Lift Arm support more than 100 pounds? In other words will it support your weight, Assuming you weigh over 100lbs LOL. When there is Load on the Cylinder there are 3 Areas of Jack that need to Seat (Not counting the Main Cylinder/Seal).
1. Release
2. Upper Valve Ball
3. Overload (Well above the 100lb Mark)
I would first look into the Overload, Simply Elevate the Rear of the Jack to move the oil to the other end and take it apart being careful not to lose any parts and Once you get to the adjusting screw just for SnG's, See how many revolutions it takes from its "Current" position till it bottoms out and completely compresses the spring..
Lets start there and after you report back ill get deeper into Jack and we can check other components.
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Being a PRO LIFT, it should use an u-cup as the main seal. But being 20 years old, it might either use an urethane u-cup or a nitrile u-cup. If the u-cup is urethane, it should be broken by now, probably in many small pieces, like gravel or coarse sand. If it used, by chance, a nitrile u-cup, it could still be in one piece but not necessarily in good working order. It would be a miracle if the urethane u-cup is intact as I have seen newer (10 to 15 years old) PRO LIFT jacks with broken u-cups. So, after you work on the bypass, if it still does not lift, plan on taking apart the pump to replace the u-cup.
This jack has a similar body shape to the one in the tutorial except the one in the tutorial uses an o-ring and o-ring retainer as a main seal, which is less desirable than an u-cup.
This jack has a similar body shape to the one in the tutorial except the one in the tutorial uses an o-ring and o-ring retainer as a main seal, which is less desirable than an u-cup.
artieb
Well-known member
Thanks for quick replies, Hiball and Edgar, I turned my overload clockwise, with no change.
Edgar has a parts break down on previous posts, that has helped me for references. I have had the jack tore apart, and visually looks good in my opinion. My Orings are replaced or passed an inspection. On Edgars diagram, my rams Orings are #64-65, looked good, with magnifying, light, and pliable with no cracks, etc.
What , where does top ball # 46( the larger of the 2 balls?) seal against in the working valve?. I understand how they check valve with each other in
relation to the plunger of the piston. I have it reassembled and I can't get it working yet. I'll recheck my work and check back.
It is hard to describe without knowing the parts names, it's easier with the diagrams posted by Edgar.
I **** at describing on a keyboard and appreciate YOUR process of interpreting, time, frustration oand responding. Thanks so much Artie
Edgar has a parts break down on previous posts, that has helped me for references. I have had the jack tore apart, and visually looks good in my opinion. My Orings are replaced or passed an inspection. On Edgars diagram, my rams Orings are #64-65, looked good, with magnifying, light, and pliable with no cracks, etc.
What , where does top ball # 46( the larger of the 2 balls?) seal against in the working valve?. I understand how they check valve with each other in
relation to the plunger of the piston. I have it reassembled and I can't get it working yet. I'll recheck my work and check back.
It is hard to describe without knowing the parts names, it's easier with the diagrams posted by Edgar.
I **** at describing on a keyboard and appreciate YOUR process of interpreting, time, frustration oand responding. Thanks so much Artie
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I don't have the Diagram in front of me, But The UPPPER ball in the Working Valve seals off the Cylinder Pressure against a Seat right below it. Since your Initial Problem dated back to when you initially bought the Jack and it has Never worked did you ever verify the Working parts order of the Overload? How many turns was it out? It would also be a Good Idea to verify the Lower Ball/Seat in the Working Valve to make sure the Seat was actually formed from the factory and isn't deformed etc.. Double check the Release components to make sure everything looks good also.
In Regards to the Main Seal, There really isn't a Designated timeline for the Ucups, Some of the Thicker 12MM Ucups are still in Service after 25+ Years in the Green/White Sears Yasui Jacks, With that Said... I would be willing to bet your UCUP after 20 years of Never being Used under load has lost a tremendous amount of its elasticity (elastomers) and is on borrowed time. It will probably work for you while you are trying to diagnose a 20 year old problem, But if you get it rectified I would definitely change it out to prevent any future Safety issues, Not to mention the hassle of needing to tear it down again and flush the particles after it gives way.
artieb
Well-known member
I was getting so frustrated, like most things. You need to think through it. I must have torn it down when I was younger and richer. I studied the power valve and didn't make sense where the balls were. Long story short, the release valve has a small ball, I switched that with the power valves smaller ball. It's working as intended. Release valve felt funny with the small valve. I know now why. It was the righty tightly and lefty loosie, opposite that kept me swearing. I have 4000# in the air with no leakdown. And apparently no fluid leaks. I'm gonna tear in a couple of bottle jacks. Different but should be doable.
I can so much appreciate the time and patience of working with " JACKS FOR DUMMIES"
and a sincere thanks for confidence and patience. Artie
I can so much appreciate the time and patience of working with " JACKS FOR DUMMIES"
and a sincere thanks for confidence and patience. Artie
artieb
Well-known member
Somewhere in this thread was covered about a reservoir seal that was a flat seal on the end of the reservoir, Larkin, and was it lock tite 518 to use for a sealing aid? Do Not silicone was mentioned by Hiball?
If your jack utilizes a seal between the reservoir and base/tank nut you "Do Not" need any type of sealant. I only use Anaerobic sealant (518) where metal meets metal, and have since it was recommended by a Hydraulic shop in Kansas and have had nothing but stellar results. It doesn't require a bead, only a very subtle smear for Greatness.
Hiball, great post! I have a question on adjusting the overload. I only read the first 7 pages so forgive me if this was answered: You stated it is difficult to precisely adjust the overload without proper equipment. If one had a pressure sensor in their posession, and placed it between the jack and a load (car), would there be a way to properly adjust the overload? Or is this not the proper equipment? What I have is an aluminum bodied pressure sensor with a guage up to 8,000lbs. Was told it was a tool for hydraulic/clamp force testing. Was thinking it would work for this no?
It's early, but off the top of my head the only issue I can see with that method is that you don't have the ability to control the load test weight down to the lb or ton to set the overload. I suppose if you had a vehicle that scaled 3800lbs when elevated from the rear (based off your sensor) and was using a 2 ton jack you could find a 200lb friend and throw him in the back? Lol.. The only difference between a test station and your sensor is that instead of using lbs to set the overload, you are converting PSI to lbs based off the cylinder size and you have the option to control the lift pressure more accurately with less effort, unless you have a lot of friends with various weights. Lol
After thinking about your "pressure sensor" today, I suppose you could make a H press that would support a 8000lb working limit and use it to adjust jacks up to 4 ton. I'm just guessing but I suspect it not a very economical tool to own? Maybe some pictures?
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michael murder
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 30, 2009
- Messages
- 284
This thread is awesome! It helped me break down a jack I recently bought.
The problem with the jack I bought is that someone has tried "fixing" it before.
Let me start by letting you know that trying to google "WWW" to find a diagram of this is completely fruitless because it brings up "www." which every single website created starts with.
Here it is all broken down.
"A" still has it's seal and had suction when the piston moved up and down. There were some issues with things found or rather not found in "C" and "D"
The spring (4) and cap (5) where removed by the previous owner and I found them in a mess of crusty grease on the outside of the jack. I'm lucky they were there at all. The filter (1) and ball bearing (6) where just floating around inside the cylinder. Do you think it's possible that with the spring and cap removed, the bearing went through the passage and pushed out the filter into the cylinder? The valve gear's (7) threads were covered in pipe dope and (8) looks like a garden hose washer. Does an o-ring go here?
"I" and "II" are the cylinder tube seals. Do o-rings go between the plastic seals and the metal cylinder tube? "III" has it's o-ring intact and seemed to have good suction. On "IV" there is good rubber on the plunger side but above it where the arrow is pointing it looks like a space is machined for an o-ring, does an o-ring go here?
There are three passages on the base. The filter fits perfectly into the hole with the arrow above it so I assume it goes there. Would there be a check ball in either of the other two holes? I did find a BB in the cylinder but I think it goes to the relief valve setup.
Am I missing any parts here? Is this thing worth rebuilding? Is there any way to set the valves having not known their original positions?
Any help and suggestions would be greatly welcomed!
The problem with the jack I bought is that someone has tried "fixing" it before.
Let me start by letting you know that trying to google "WWW" to find a diagram of this is completely fruitless because it brings up "www." which every single website created starts with.
Here it is all broken down.
"A" still has it's seal and had suction when the piston moved up and down. There were some issues with things found or rather not found in "C" and "D"
The spring (4) and cap (5) where removed by the previous owner and I found them in a mess of crusty grease on the outside of the jack. I'm lucky they were there at all. The filter (1) and ball bearing (6) where just floating around inside the cylinder. Do you think it's possible that with the spring and cap removed, the bearing went through the passage and pushed out the filter into the cylinder? The valve gear's (7) threads were covered in pipe dope and (8) looks like a garden hose washer. Does an o-ring go here?
"I" and "II" are the cylinder tube seals. Do o-rings go between the plastic seals and the metal cylinder tube? "III" has it's o-ring intact and seemed to have good suction. On "IV" there is good rubber on the plunger side but above it where the arrow is pointing it looks like a space is machined for an o-ring, does an o-ring go here?
There are three passages on the base. The filter fits perfectly into the hole with the arrow above it so I assume it goes there. Would there be a check ball in either of the other two holes? I did find a BB in the cylinder but I think it goes to the relief valve setup.
Am I missing any parts here? Is this thing worth rebuilding? Is there any way to set the valves having not known their original positions?
Any help and suggestions would be greatly welcomed!
@Michael Murder
The Valve Makeup looks to be in the Correct Order, The "Garden Hose seal" Is not Correct, There are a few variations of that seal, But if you can find a Oring that has the Correct OD to match the Release portion you should be Good, Don't try and use a super thick cross section, Maybe 1/8" or so... As far as the Filter making its way through the system, Highly Unlikely... As it would be mangled beyond recognition. Are you sure it wasn't in the Reservoir versus the cylinder? That is Fairly common as that style only uses friction to keep it in the Intake hole, Which would be the Hole closest to 6 o'clock at the bottom of the Hydraulic Unit.
The Plastic Seals do not utilize any orings on the Reservoir, They strictly seal with compression and occasionally do wear, but the majority of the time as long as there are NO sharp edges you can reuse them. The Main Ram doesn't utilize a Oring on the Backside of the Guide, There is a ORING inside "III" that seals the Rod.
As far as Rebuilding? That's Really up to you, it appears that unit uses the less desirable Oring/Shell seal for the Main Piston, I would recommend replacing it with a UCUP which might require some light machining. I would definitely clean up the Pipe Dope, Replace the Pump Piston Orings and the Tank Nut Oring and as far as the Overload.. Without a Test Station you are strictly guessing but a good rule of thumb is to completely compress the Spring and back it off 1 1/2 Turns.
I think I answered all your Questions, if not don't hesitate to report back.
The Valve Makeup looks to be in the Correct Order, The "Garden Hose seal" Is not Correct, There are a few variations of that seal, But if you can find a Oring that has the Correct OD to match the Release portion you should be Good, Don't try and use a super thick cross section, Maybe 1/8" or so... As far as the Filter making its way through the system, Highly Unlikely... As it would be mangled beyond recognition. Are you sure it wasn't in the Reservoir versus the cylinder? That is Fairly common as that style only uses friction to keep it in the Intake hole, Which would be the Hole closest to 6 o'clock at the bottom of the Hydraulic Unit.
The Plastic Seals do not utilize any orings on the Reservoir, They strictly seal with compression and occasionally do wear, but the majority of the time as long as there are NO sharp edges you can reuse them. The Main Ram doesn't utilize a Oring on the Backside of the Guide, There is a ORING inside "III" that seals the Rod.
As far as Rebuilding? That's Really up to you, it appears that unit uses the less desirable Oring/Shell seal for the Main Piston, I would recommend replacing it with a UCUP which might require some light machining. I would definitely clean up the Pipe Dope, Replace the Pump Piston Orings and the Tank Nut Oring and as far as the Overload.. Without a Test Station you are strictly guessing but a good rule of thumb is to completely compress the Spring and back it off 1 1/2 Turns.
I think I answered all your Questions, if not don't hesitate to report back.
RockinDokken
New member
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2013
- Messages
- 2
I just wanted to send a thank you for this write-up Hiball. I had a jack that was given to me by a friend's father. It was leaking, and he didn't know what to do with it, so it ended up at my house.
Your step-by-step instructions were super helpful, and took away the unknowns that would have given me pause. I have one more jack to fix up, and I definitely be checking this thread again for help.
Your step-by-step instructions were super helpful, and took away the unknowns that would have given me pause. I have one more jack to fix up, and I definitely be checking this thread again for help.
michael murder
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 30, 2009
- Messages
- 284
Thanks for the fast reply Hiball!
I bought new o-rings as suggested and put everything back together. I took it on it's maiden voyage and it worked great initially.
However . . .
As I tried lowering the jack it did not go down smoothly. It would go down a short ways and stop until I cracked the relief valve more. It did this several times until the jack was collapsed. I figured I might have assembled something wrong but found a small puddle of hydraulic fluid under the jack. Upon further inspection it was leaking out of a pinhole in a rusty part of the topnut.
I might try some trucker putty on it or failing that disassembling the whole thing again and weld up the pinhole. Might be a lot of work for what's really a $5 garbage jack, but it had way more travel per pump than my current jack and seemed to work fine other than the leak. I think it's unwillingness to come down smoothly might have been from the fluid being diverted out of the hole.
I bought new o-rings as suggested and put everything back together. I took it on it's maiden voyage and it worked great initially.
However . . .
As I tried lowering the jack it did not go down smoothly. It would go down a short ways and stop until I cracked the relief valve more. It did this several times until the jack was collapsed. I figured I might have assembled something wrong but found a small puddle of hydraulic fluid under the jack. Upon further inspection it was leaking out of a pinhole in a rusty part of the topnut.
I might try some trucker putty on it or failing that disassembling the whole thing again and weld up the pinhole. Might be a lot of work for what's really a $5 garbage jack, but it had way more travel per pump than my current jack and seemed to work fine other than the leak. I think it's unwillingness to come down smoothly might have been from the fluid being diverted out of the hole.
Thanks for the fast reply Hiball!
I bought new o-rings as suggested and put everything back together. I took it on it's maiden voyage and it worked great initially.
However . . .
As I tried lowering the jack it did not go down smoothly. It would go down a short ways and stop until I cracked the relief valve more. It did this several times until the jack was collapsed. I figured I might have assembled something wrong but found a small puddle of hydraulic fluid under the jack. Upon further inspection it was leaking out of a pinhole in a rusty part of the topnut.
I might try some trucker putty on it or failing that disassembling the whole thing again and weld up the pinhole. Might be a lot of work for what's really a $5 garbage jack, but it had way more travel per pump than my current jack and seemed to work fine other than the leak. I think it's unwillingness to come down smoothly might have been from the fluid being diverted out of the hole.
The Herky/Jerky lowering sounds like there was Air in the system, I can't say I've ever seen a pin hole on the tank nut. I would think some Jb weld or similar would address that hole, and in reality if the main seal is good it "should" only be handling reservoir oil pressure. I would double check that the oil isn't running down from the cylinder/tank seal and fooling you into thinking its coming from a "pin hole".
Thanks very much for this post Hiball. My 25 year old Allied HJC-I jack still lifts fine, the only problem is that the gears between the handle and the pump mechanism have worn to the point where they no longer mesh. Any idea on where to find replacement gears?
Jim
Jim
There is a couple different variations, that include tooth count, mounting style etc.. I would suggest posting up what style you have with some dimensions and maybe someone here has a replacement. I've given most of mine away to the membership, I may still have a few left but the box has definitely dwindles down.
HCRCnow
Well-known member
This is the flat and cupped gear.
http://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/parts/norco/featured/78477
http://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/parts/norco/featured/78477
rollerguide
New member
- Joined
- May 15, 2014
- Messages
- 3
Hi All
Got a taiwan floor jack myself.
It was lowering under load and wouldn't lift up properly.
So i decided to rip it apart and change the seals myself. Didn't see this thread beforehand and if i did, could have avoided the mess i'm in now
I managed to complete disassemble the jack, paint it with hammer finish as it was beginning to show rust, change all the seals and fit everything back together.
I removed the overload screw as well not knowing but did fit it back after some googling. simply tightened the screw until it seated and backed out two full turns.
All seem to go well except that it wouldn't lower down after lifting.
Culprit is the release valve as i did take that apart too and cleaned everything up and replaced the o'ring in there as well
Release valve lift rod. it's the square bit that pushes against the ball bearing
The recess with the ball bearing at the bottom
The release valve on this jack seem to be bit different to what i've seen on this thread. The problem is when you rotate the starwheel to lift and lower the arm that pushes against the ball bearing, there's nothing to really hold this arms from turning with the star wheel.
Simply you can turn the starwheel all you want but the lift rod wouldn't lift or lower down one bit.
I took this apart in the night and was wondering if i've misplaced some part or the other that stops the lift rod from turning.
Any ideas to resolve this?
I've spent nearly two days fiddling with the heigh of the lift screw thing hoping the friction against the ball bearing would hold it in place. so far no luck.
Just lotsa hydraulic fluid on the garage floor and pure cold dissapointment.
Appreciate any support from you guys
And yeah...joined the forum just for this
Got a taiwan floor jack myself.
It was lowering under load and wouldn't lift up properly.
So i decided to rip it apart and change the seals myself. Didn't see this thread beforehand and if i did, could have avoided the mess i'm in now
I managed to complete disassemble the jack, paint it with hammer finish as it was beginning to show rust, change all the seals and fit everything back together.
I removed the overload screw as well not knowing but did fit it back after some googling. simply tightened the screw until it seated and backed out two full turns.
All seem to go well except that it wouldn't lower down after lifting.
Culprit is the release valve as i did take that apart too and cleaned everything up and replaced the o'ring in there as well
Release valve lift rod. it's the square bit that pushes against the ball bearing
The recess with the ball bearing at the bottom
The release valve on this jack seem to be bit different to what i've seen on this thread. The problem is when you rotate the starwheel to lift and lower the arm that pushes against the ball bearing, there's nothing to really hold this arms from turning with the star wheel.
Simply you can turn the starwheel all you want but the lift rod wouldn't lift or lower down one bit.
I took this apart in the night and was wondering if i've misplaced some part or the other that stops the lift rod from turning.
Any ideas to resolve this?
I've spent nearly two days fiddling with the heigh of the lift screw thing hoping the friction against the ball bearing would hold it in place. so far no luck.
Just lotsa hydraulic fluid on the garage floor and pure cold dissapointment.
Appreciate any support from you guys
And yeah...joined the forum just for this
Your missing the flat washer that has a square cut out that matches the adjustable portion of the release mechanism, without that part there is nothing to provide friction to allow it to rise and fall when the gear turns.
rollerguide
New member
- Joined
- May 15, 2014
- Messages
- 3
thanks hiball for the super quick reply.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220817
saw that a little while ago.
figured out the square washer thingy.
in the process of cleaning up my work table/garage to track down this missing piece. So far no luck
would be a tough one to source too i'm guessing.
worse case i'm thinking of getting a normal round washer and hand filing it to square.....aaarrrrgh
frustrations of diy
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220817
saw that a little while ago.
figured out the square washer thingy.
in the process of cleaning up my work table/garage to track down this missing piece. So far no luck
would be a tough one to source too i'm guessing.
worse case i'm thinking of getting a normal round washer and hand filing it to square.....aaarrrrgh
frustrations of diy
thanks hiball for the super quick reply.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220817
saw that a little while ago.
figured out the square washer thingy.
in the process of cleaning up my work table/garage to track down this missing piece. So far no luck
would be a tough one to source too i'm guessing.
worse case i'm thinking of getting a normal round washer and hand filing it to square.....aaarrrrgh
frustrations of diy
Wouldn't be to terrible of a piece to manufacture, just don't use too thick of a washer because it will change the contact point between the 2 gears.