Please critique my garage

[RegeSullivan]

As I stated in an earlier reply I think it looks great and it will be a fantastic space to work on your cars. I hope you keep us updated on your progress.

 

[dave*99]

That is an excellent lift. I retired from a Lexus dealer as a tech 12 yrs ago. 6yrs prior to that we moved into the new shop. It had 25 of the 9000# version of that lift. You will love it.

Agreed, I have the Rotary SPOA10-RA for many years now, and it's great, especially for lowered track cars.

 

[KSJeff]

That's a great lift but I'd still consider something shorter. I use a forward and I'm pretty sure it would slide under that 10' ceiling and give you some additional room. Obviously, if you're doing a lot of heavy transmission work, you wouldn't want cables on the floor to roll over but that doesn't seem like the case with you.

 

[Rounder]

Hope I helped you vent some frustration with whatever's vexing you.

Ya I needed to, after looking at the mess in my 20x40 barn.

 

[DCJets]

Raised ceiling just around the lift will, imho, result in constructionwise and statically issues, exceeding the cost of a complete higher ceiling in the garage.

To me, the partially raised ceiling could only be justified by legal restrictions affecting the entire building.

 

[TXpcargarage]

I would consider at least one mandoor a necessity, if for no other reason than safety.

There's one in the back. Adding another in the front from the advice here.

 

[TXpcargarage]

Agreed, I have the Rotary SPOA10-RA for many years now, and it's great, especially for lowered track cars.

Thanks. Cars are:

89 Porsche 911 (lowered)
03 BMW 540i wagon (lowered)
85 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 (lifted)

 

[TXpcargarage]

That's a great lift but I'd still consider something shorter. I use a forward and I'm pretty sure it would slide under that 10' ceiling and give you some additional room. Obviously, if you're doing a lot of heavy transmission work, you wouldn't want cables on the floor to roll over but that doesn't seem like the case with you.

Could you elaborate a bit? Is Forward a lift company? Thanks.

 

[TXpcargarage]

Raised ceiling just around the lift will, imho, result in constructionwise and statically issues, exceeding the cost of a complete higher ceiling in the garage.

To me, the partially raised ceiling could only be justified by legal restrictions affecting the entire building.

So many restrictions. Livable stories, total height, roof angles, etc. etc. This was the optimal solution given everything we're facing.

 

[KSJeff]

Could you elaborate a bit? Is Forward a lift company? Thanks.

Yes, you can see my lift at the link below. It's a certified lift and I think it's a brand of Rotary. *I've had up to 8000lbs on it (ford super cab F350) and it's rock solid. Even put a level on the posts and no deflection or movement at all. I've been very happy with it for the last few years and I use it about once a week.

If you look back at my previous post with your garage drawing, I think this would allow the side post (which is under 10 feet) to extend farther toward the center and get you a little farther from the wall while allowing your car to go up higher. So your left post would be under your 10' ceiling and your car would go up into your elevated ceiling instead of both lift post requiring a higher ceiling. Just an option to give you more space on that side wall. It would, however eat up some of your space for that fourth car.

You will be driving over your cable cover because the lift cables run through the bottom of the lift underneath a metal tray (it's like a little speed bump). I like it because my garage tilts slightly to my door for drainage and I can drive over the hump, put my car in neutral so I can position it on the lift by pushing it back and forth and it never rolls away because it can't build up enough inertia to get the wheels over the cable tray on the floor.

But, I work on a lot of different cars so I always end up moving them back and forth to get the pad positions I like the most. WIth a two post lift on some cars I have to drive in a little deep so I can get the door open and get out, so leaving them in neutral is just the way I like to do it.

*one more edit. With an automatic, once I get the car positioned I put it in park and turn off the key. The first time I didn't I did't think about getting it back in neutral outside of the car. On a lot of cars, you can't shift out of park without your foot on the brake. So, I have a four foot wooden cane hanging on my lift so I can hold down the brake pedal and put the car in neutral and roll it back so I can open the door. Just a FYI...

Forward BP9 Low Ceiling Lift | 9,000 lbs Capacity

Have a low-ceiling shop? The Rotary BP9 is a 9,000 lb. symmetric two-post lift that fits in spaces as low as 10 feet and features a steel base plate.

www.forwardlift.com

 

[DCJets]

So many restrictions. Livable stories, total height, roof angles, etc. etc. This was the optimal solution given everything we're facing.

How about lowering the ground floor? Preferably having a ramp within the driveway, or maybe if not possible differently, using the two forward parking spots inside the building as a ramp.

 

[TADER]

Joining the forum and in on this thread because I'm in a very similar situation...

I have to build within a 24x40ft foot print. I keep feeling that 24' wide will be too narrow for a lift to one side of that (possibly two side by side in the future). I am planning on dividing the space as follows; parking areas of 12x20, 12x15, 10x20 w/ a four post lift for vehicle storage only and a work space of 14x25.

We definitely have some similar constraints and goals. The biggest things that stand out to me with this design (as most all have already said) are:
No workspace.
No area for benches, floor tools, storage.
I understand what the guys are saying about window height, but that is fairly irrelevant considering there is only 1.5-2 ft from wall to car.

Will this also be the parking garage for yalls daily drivers?

 

[TADER]

Here's a rough drawing of what I am trying to accomplish. Sorry, it's not as accurate or detailed as your drawings, but it should convey the layout much better than my previous description.

 

[Doozer75]

I would consider at least one mandoor a necessity, if for no other reason than safety.

Safety ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
How ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

-Doozer

 

[dave*99]

Safety ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
How ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

-Doozer

FIRE. Always want more than one way to exit. Egress.

 

[rayra]

For all the limitations posted late to the thread by the OP, it’s clear the design is pretty much set already and our time was wasted.
op should keep it as an attached remodel and have the same four car floor plan by pushing the front of the garage closer to the street and the rear half of the garage into the rear portion of the property
AND by attaching that breezeway / walkway becomes the 4’ of additional width he floorplan sorely needs
and make the upstairs a friggin storage loft with pull down stairs rather that the stealth bonus living space / art studio his wife has added

 

[Doozer75]

FIRE. Always want more than one way to exit. Egress.

It has a man door and 2 garage doors.
What gives ? ? ? ? ? ?

-Doozer

 

[dave*99]

It has a man door and 2 garage doors.
What gives ? ? ? ? ? ?

-Doozer

Go back and read post 94. Sounds like we agree that at least one man door is needed.

The design has one at the back of the garage which is good for egress in an emergency and a second is being added else where for convenience.

 

[Joemctag]

I was debating that last night. On the one hand it’ll be a push of a button to open the main doors. On the other hand the only man door is at the far corner of the garage from the house. Would I be making a mistake in not putting another door closer?

There will be times you don’t want to make noise ( garage door ). There will be times there’s a driving rain. Small canopy over man door is nice, too.
Canopy at front could be a lot more generous. Don’t know direction it faces or your weather. I’ve ended up adding canopies and porches a lot . I like them, whether in rain or shine.
Good luck. Hope you’re able to get something that works. We can see that you only have so much space to work with.

 

[Doozer75]

Go back and read post 94. Sounds like we agree that at least one man door is needed.

The design has one at the back of the garage which is good for egress in an emergency and a second is being added else where for convenience.

No I completely disagree. It seems using safety as a justification to try and control
people has gone too far. With a huge garage door, I don't see the need for a man
door. Keep your safety ideals.

-D

 

[dave*99]

No I completely disagree. It seems using safety as a justification to try and control
people has gone too far. With a huge garage door, I don't see the need for a man
door. Keep your safety ideals.

-D

if you want to control people you put less doors in, not more. If you really want to control them you lock the only door they have.
Access to safe egress is a real thing.
YMMV

 

[dallastide]

Looks great considering the restrictions you are up against. I also live in Dallas in town so I understand having to maximize space. Looks like you are in the M streets or somewhere similar. I know the greenland hills conservation district can be an insane p.i.t.a. to deal with. I agree with those here saying to maximize cabinet space as much as possible. But you will be happy in the end when the garage blends architecturally with the rest of the property (probably required to anyways). And will help it fly under the radar which is always a plus. Good luck to you. Can't wait for final pictures.

 

[Doozer75]

if you want to control people you put less doors in, not more. If you really want to control them you lock the only door they have.
Access to safe egress is a real thing.
YMMV

Replying with hyperbole does not strengthen the point you pursue.
It is one man's private garage we are talking about.
This is not a public building.
You don't need a man door.

-D

 

[Richard D]

If you have a fire and loose electricity, do you want to be pulling on a chain to raise a big overhead door, in a panic? I sure wouldn't.

 

[DCJets]

No need pulling a chain if it's an electric driven door.
Also no need discussing escape hatches. It had been pointed out and the garage owner will decide on it.
Personally I'd prefer a small entrance, not exposing my garage contents to bypassers or the entire neighbourhood, when just entering.

 

[mikeyr]

The front half of my garage is 20ft wide, when I put 2 cars in the front half I can't really work on them, just not enough room to the sides. The back half is 24ft. wide and much nicer to put 2 cars in but that has become my shop space so no cars. I wish i had done the smart thing when i added the back half and moved one of the front walls out to 24ft. But I got cheap and in a hurry to finish so leaving the wall in place was quicker, also not sure the city would have let me anyway.