Please educate me on Epoxy

[Cars&Classic]

Hello
new here looks like a lot to read! Can some one post links to past post or educate me on Epoxys.
I am having a new home built, First ever and finally doing a dream shop. "I work in MY shop!" but want it to look good so the floor will need to be ultra strong. Cherry picker, Rottissary, painting rolling tool boxes around. I would like it to be useable to restore cars but able to clean up after a project. I am attaching a pic, i think I will be adding a second lift in the big bay a 4 post. there is also a shop in the basment that I am going to make a custom lift in to bring engines and tool boxes up to the main garage.

 

[Cars&Classic]

Could someone who has a lot of post could please link or point me to the right thread to read up on this? after reading some of the post on here it looks like guys with one post don't get responses. I can see that some look like they are trying to promote there product. so I am posting again, I am not asking to promote someone.
I am a realestate agent in central indiana building a house looking for help with the floor.
I am trying to read through these threads but they are so long its hard to deciper who is trying to sell there product and who is trying to help!

 

[av1]

Patience my friend......someone will be along shortly.

 

[Hogan's Hero]

I'll get the ball rolling. Welcome to the garage.

There are any number of threads that will answer whatever questions you have to get you started. Take the time and read them. There are just too many variables in your original post for anyone to give you clear direction...

I will tell you that 100% solids epoxy gets the nod for the way to go on flooring that will withstand some abuse. There are those that will claim they have had great luck with other paints, but generally only the pure solids holds up in this kind of environment.

There are lots of folks on here that do promote their lines and you just need to be a good consumer. If you are taking a look at their particular product... ask specific questions to them.

I know this may not answer your question, but I'm trying to help.

I have no interest in any epoxy company. I will tell you that after doing my homework here, I did my floor with Epoxygaurd and am very happy. I don't believe there is much mention of the product on this site, but I found it when looking through comparisons from a company that is active here. Keep reading.

 

[marc@kentucky]

I am preparing to start construction on a 48 X 32 garage with an intended use similar to what you describe (lift installed, welding, hobby automotive restoration).

After a lot of reading on the topic and talking to industrial contractors in my area as well as visiting different sites- I have decided to go with a color impregnated (dyed) slab along with a concrete densifier.

You can search this site for densifier to find more info.

Ashland formula http://www.ashfordformula.com/ is one particular brand, but there are other vendors on this site that offer comparable (and probably less expensive) alternatives, including the links below:

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/con...lon-p-144.html

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/con...und-p-180.html

I'm sure you will get a lot of varying opinions on the matter, but this is the treatment that I feel will be best for my application based on my research. That being said, I have epoxy treatments in my attached garage and basement and am happy with the appearance and performance.

 

[gnxtc2]

If you are building your house/shop from scratch, I would look into polishing your concrete floors. With a fresh concrete pour, it'll be alot easier. Once the floor is polished/sealed, almost nothing can affect it. Otherwise a high build solids epoxy is your best bet.

Another option for a fresh pour is have the concrete plant add a tint to the concrete at the plant.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Cars&Classic]

I would think that a high polish would be very slippery, or would you put somthing else on it to help with that? I have seen the tint, but that dosent seam to resist stains. I relize epoxy is not bullet proof, but what would everyone feel is the strongest? the shop is about 1,100 sq ft and ther will be an additional 250 sq ft in the basment.

 

[AlphaGarage]

If you want a bit of inspiration for your custom garage, and some solid floor coating tips, here's a thread you'll enjoy:


Dream Garage

 

[Cars&Classic]

Your right that is an insperational thread!

if you grind a floor is that small grinder the only type available? or can you rent somthing larger like 12-24" walkbehind?

I like the look and it sounds like one of the stronger optiions, what if you do scratch or chip it can you patch it?

How visible would a patch be ( say the same color and chips that roger used.)
should you order a little extra for future touch up?
what is the shelf life of the unmixed product (to keep for patches)

I saw a few post that talk about shot blast, what does everyone think of that option?

how do you work with expansion joints? coat them? calk them later with clear? cut first?????

how would you aply this (or can you ) to the 4" or so sides of the wall or iis it easyer to trim the sides with wood?

I have a local outfit that offered a very large discount on there epoxy due to who I know and what I do ( Realtor) knowing that I would refer jobs for them, but after reading some of these threads the product seams to be a critical part of the durability and life so I may have to rethink that. discounts are nice but it doesnt look like somthing you can redue if your not happy!

I would like to see more post showing the process if anyone has any.
it apears there are 2 maybe 3 brands or processes to chose from so any help would be apreciated. also if someone has info good or bad that doesnt want to post please email or PM me. Thanks for the help! I talk to the builder today looks like they start digging for the house on the 15th!

also looking for any good threads about building a custom lift to go from the basment to the garage for engines and tool boxes. I talk to greg smith equipment here in town who sells lifts. They have basically a Half of a lift available. I am thinking of building a platform to attach to it that would travel from one level to the next. I am working on a gate or safty system that would move into place as the table went up and down to pervent someone from falling in.
The lift will be in the very corner of the basment. The builder is installing an extra header in the wall and 2 in the floor so that once the house is built I can cut the floor section out. (cant do it before due to codes and warantee) and the wall is in the back of the garage. it will get some type of double doors or gate that locks or trigers from the lift. I cannot fit any larger garage on the lot so the basment will become the machining/engine building area.
thanks for the help LOVE this board!

 

[AlphaGarage]

Your right that is an insperational thread!

Roger's floor got a fantastic write up in the magazine "Great Garage Makeovers" from the Wood magazine publishers - very well deserved!

if you grind a floor is that small grinder the only type available? or can you rent somthing larger like 12-24" walkbehind?

Yes, that's usually the way it's done. You can do it by hand, and some pro guys go real, real, quick with a 9" angle grinder, but a walk behind is much quicker and easier.

I like the look and it sounds like one of the stronger optiions, what if you do scratch or chip it can you patch it?

It's a very durable system, but it can be chipped, and you can patch spots.

How visible would a patch be ( say the same color and chips that roger used.)
should you order a little extra for future touch up?

With heavier flake coverage patch jobs can blend in pretty good, even solid floors can be patched. But it takes a bit of an artistic touch to get a seamless repair patch. Practice a few test patches in an inconspicuous spot first.

what is the shelf life of the unmixed product (to keep for patches)

The epoxies (BondTite 1101 primer and LiquaTile 1184 body coat) can last a few years if stored well (decanted to a smaller container with little air exposure) the clear coat urethane (EnduraShield 2254)has a much shorter lifespan after it's opened.

I saw a few post that talk about shot blast, what does everyone think of that option?

They're a good way to go, but they're harder to find, a bit pricier, and have a learning curve.

how do you work with expansion joints? coat them? calk them later with clear? cut first?????

Fill 'em in, or leave 'em alone. There's some practical reasons to fill them - won't trap dirt, easier to roll over - but filling them is largely an aesthetic decision.
There are a few other considers, we have a tip sheet available here.

how would you aply this (or can you ) to the 4" or so sides of the wall or iis it easyer to trim the sides with wood?

You can coat the sides with epoxy, but in most cases those areas don't see too much action so it's easier to get matching color acrylic paint.

I have a local outfit that offered a very large discount on there epoxy due to who I know and what I do ( Realtor) knowing that I would refer jobs for them, but after reading some of these threads the product seams to be a critical part of the durability and life so I may have to rethink that. discounts are nice but it doesnt look like somthing you can redue if your not happy!

Actually all epoxies are identical - just like one house is the same as another one on the other side of the tracks. In other words they vary greatly. Wolverine alone has literally hundreds of unique and different epoxy formulas.
Great product has great raw ingredients and quality control, but the product is only part of the picture. The time you invest also has value, as will any resources required to re-do a poor or failed install. Sometimes poor product will do the job, but the odds of having a successful long lasting floor coating increases with the right product choices.

I would like to see more post showing the process if anyone has any.
it apears there are 2 maybe 3 brands or processes to chose from so any help would be apreciated. also if someone has info good or bad that doesnt want to post please email or PM me. Thanks for the help! I talk to the builder today looks like they start digging for the house on the 15th!

Here are a couple of other DIY projects which will give you a good idea of the overall process... Just click on the picture to see the thread...

 

[Cars&Classic]

A little progress but not ready for epoxy yet
garage is about 46 long parts are 26 beep other parts are 21

 

[thegarageguy]

My system of choice for working garages wold be a double broadcast quartz floor with a polyaspartic or polyurethane finish. It's typically 1/8" to 3/16" thick (depending on quartz size) and can hold up to much more abuse that a rolled on or painted chip floor that is typically 1/32" thick.

Epoxy is an ingredient of a system and there are many types of epoxies and tons of different systems made specifically for certain applications, such as a working garage.

My point is that saying you need 100% solids epoxy is like saying you need salt on your food. What you need is the correct system. You may find that a thin mil painted epoxy surface may not handle your work load or perform to your expectations.