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These I'd say are for inside snap rings.
Yep, that’s correct.
I agree about the size. The radii of Utica I have fit over a 5/16 drill rod just about exactly.
These may be Arc-Joint but they are marked “Pipe Wrench Plier” which seems kind of odd to me.
What we used to call "lesbian pliers".The handle shape brings Channellock to mind. The nut is different but that could have been specified by Sears.
-Don
Hell, we had lesbian paneling, flooring, etc... and lesbians wielding hammers!
Pipe wrench plier was a trademark of Wilde tool. I have a Klein branded pair (D503-12) with yellow handles and they grip pipe and threaded fittings pretty well.These may be Arc-Joint but they are marked “Pipe Wrench Plier” which seems kind of odd to me.
-Don
I find myself reaching for them pretty often when the piece is too small or the access too limited for a pipe wrench. If you know how to use them, they work quite well--within their limits.
I have never seen the smooth jaw version except as a closeout from Cripe.^ I thought Wilde's "pipe wrench plier" was a toothless model?
First. I hope everyone had a great 4th of July; extended mine some - HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMERICA - blessed gift to me; make it better for next.
) and had time to compare them today.Thank-You for posting your observations and the pictures.
Received slipjoint pliers from @four.cycle (along w 2 unrelated pliers
The pivot bolt head is not identical in size (the smaller pair has the larger bolthead, or rather, rivet). The triangular stamp is, as noted before, not identical, though the radiused points are similar. The number of teeth in the jaws is different. I think the other characteristics are artifacts of the forging process, which would be similar for any slipjoints without patterned grips.
I don’t think it is impossible both pairs were manufactured by the same forge, but I don’t see any reason to think they were, either. Let’s hope for more examples or more records, or both.
^ one was "handle pattern" (the "West Germany" set)along w 2 unrelated pliers
Thank-You; your pictures eliminates the ‘eraser stamp’ for me, will settle for now on marketing product not proud enough to put a maker’s name on, but using USA to help sell it. I understand this was used by other U.S. manufacturers in the 1930’s. Hope someone else picks this up later; would like knowing.
I don’t notice bulges or deformation. The outside curves are from the overall pattern, and the handles, generally, are straight as an arrow shot into the sun. I suppose that suggests the stamp is part of the basic forging dies and not a secondary forging to obliterate some other mfr’s mark.
Oddly, considering the attention they have received, these were just a random pair of pliers in a box half-full of junk I bought. They don’t have any decorative features, just decent utilitarian slipjoints. I wasn’t going to keep them. I didn’t even clean them. But then “Mc.D.” The mystery continues.
LesserSon, I, and I’m sure many others, appreciate very much the images/photos and information you & others share here.The other pliers were an unmarked, smooth-gripped 4” slipjoints.
A pair of “Made in Western Germany” longnose pliers with the same grip pattern was among my left-behinds yesterday at the flea. I probably would not have noticed them if not for looking these over beforehand.
Actually I was at the Utica posts before I came here; harvested your excellent images into my files - I came so close to posting the reply there: See!!! THAT’S WHAT I’M TALKING ABOUT. May have been a ‘head-scratcher’ for the Utica folks. Anyway once your images are inserted in my files; your genius/OK it’s the light, is evident. The clarity, resolution, thoroughness, depth of field - don’t need to read the subtitles to pick your images out & very much appreciate your extra effort. Appreciate the insight your shared; if you care to further explain “frequently (adjust keystone) to achieve the look of a dead-on shot” - unfamiliar with that term.
“Keystone correction” is a term I picked up from using LCD projectors. When a projector cannot be set up to project “dead-on” (centered and perpendicular to the screen, both vertically and horizontally), there were manual adjustments (later, automatic for vertical tilt) that corrected the projected frame to square it to the screen border. Photography/projection - flipsides of the same coin. Actually, many disciplines have idiosyncratic terms for what amounts to the same idea: point-of-view, perspective, attitude.
The basic photoeditor on my phone allows horizontal and a vertical correction. I used to use a free editor that also corrected skew, which can result from pushing those corrections too far, but also from taking still images out the side of a speeding vehicle (at least with older, slower digital cameras).
Wow! - I made it half-way through my junior year at OSU before ‘nam; received 12mo.’s of schooling/training via the US Army (several magnitudes above the civilian version, by the way); your answer/explanation is a 10, borderline 11 - If your not an educator, you should be teaching them - Thank-You.“Keystone correction” is a term I picked up from using LCD projectors. When a projector cannot be set up to project “dead-on” (centered and perpendicular to the screen, both vertically and horizontally), there were manual adjustments (later, automatic for vertical tilt) that corrected the projected frame to square it to the screen border. Photography/projection - flipsides of the same coin. Actually, many disciplines have idiosyncratic terms for what amounts to the same idea: point-of-view, perspective, attitude.
I’m using “keystone” (originally from masonry) generally to include any situation where parallel lines would appear to converge, or put another way, rectangular shapes would appear trapezoidal.
So, in application:
if I find a glare in a dead-on shot
I can take another pic from an oblique angle to avoid the glare
and then correct the trapezoidal distortion (“keystone”) with the editor
which I think yields better resolution than simply eliminating the source of the glare
Ahh.. yes.. the toy pliers!
