Below 265 SQ/FT Pool shed build

[mike93lx]

i really need to re-learn sketchup, but in the meantime, this will have to do.

trying to make decisions on the door and window(s). The pic below is a 72x80 inswing French door, the rectangular window is a 24wx30h fixed pane and the octagonal is 24"wx24"h. Siding will be LP lap, trim will be LP 1x4 except the rake boards, which will likely be capped with 8" siding boards

thoughts? (useful) opinions?

 

[velocipede]

I guess inswing is a bit more secure, since that puts the hinges on the inside, but limits what you can put in the doorway. Outswing would give you more floor space on the inside.

 

[kitdoctor]

Mike, I commend you for giving block laying a go. I will have to rethink my pizza oven idea though

 

[PCustoms]

I guess inswing is a bit more secure, since that puts the hinges on the inside, but limits what you can put in the doorway. Outswing would give you more floor space on the inside.

Inswing can easily be bashed in.

Outswing with security hinges is secure and doesn't limit floorspace inside small buildings.

 

[mike93lx]

I guess inswing is a bit more secure, since that puts the hinges on the inside, but limits what you can put in the doorway. Outswing would give you more floor space on the inside.

But it also eats up valuable patio space and I don't think we'll be in and out a massive amount. This won't be packed to the gills and the doors will need to swing no matter what so people can get to the changing area and fridge.

Security is not a concern at all. There is no door configuration that it meaningfully stronger for a shed, especially when the doors are a big piece of glass

 

[mike93lx]

Mike, I commend you for giving block laying a go. I will have to rethink my pizza oven idea though

. It's been a struggle but I dislike it less than drywall, so it's got that going for it

 

[gba2331]

Maybe add speakers or a floodlight? This might already be in your plans.

One thing I haven’t figured out is where to keep the long pool brush/skimmer poles. Maybe add a dedicated pocket somewhere on the side?

 

[mike93lx]

Maybe add speakers or a floodlight? This might already be in your plans.

One thing I haven’t figured out is where to keep the long pool brush/skimmer poles. Maybe add a dedicated pocket somewhere on the side?

Yeah, I'll likely have some sort of flood/area light out there, but speakers, I'm undecided on.

For the brush and net, I riveted a pair of double hooks on the fence posts that used to be where the shed is going. It worked well, so they will get moved to another pair of posts

 

[ssjones]

Interesting build! We just finished a pool and shed down here in Louisiana (hoping the pool gets 3-4 more months of use in contrast to our Maryland pool). I added electric service to the shed, wife/daughters who live nearby want a bar added on the side.

 

[captain14]

How long do you have to wait for the mortar to cure before the framing starts in cold weather?

Or will you do the framing in The spring?

 

[mike93lx]

How long do you have to wait for the mortar to cure before the framing starts in cold weather?

Or will you do the framing in The spring?

Not waiting, I'll be starting soon.

After a day, the walls were solid. I may set the sill plates next weekend, but may not actually frame for another week or so.

It will be at least a few weeks between the block work and installing the hold down anchors

 

[gba2331]

Yeah, I'll likely have some sort of flood/area light out there, but speakers, I'm undecided on.

Maybe figure out how to put in floods without that typical ugly two-headed mount? And at least put in speaker wires….maybe even cat-5 if you’re routing from the house (security camera?)

 

[mike93lx]

Maybe figure out how to put in floods without that typical ugly two-headed mount? And at least put in speaker wires….maybe even cat-5 if you’re routing from the house (security camera?)

The house is about 20 ft away, so no wiring needed and all of my cameras are wireless. I may put one out there, but don't want a camera recording constantly... Just to be able to keep an eye out when we are away.

A Bluetooth speaker will do everything I could need as we aren't big background music people.

For lighting, I'd much rather get low voltage downlights on the fence around the pool than have a single bright light on the shed. We had string lights around the fence a couple years ago, which lit things up perfectly, but it wasn't a good long term solution

 

[mike93lx]

For electrical, I have 4x #10 copper xhhw already run out there. They're on a 20a two pole breaker, non gfci

Plan is to run that into a 4 gang box


And terminate on a 20a dual pole switch to act as a disconnect.

Then I'll change to #12 thwn to connect to a pair of gfci receptacles. The 4th gang is just to have some extra room in the box.

I drove a single 8' ground rod and got some #8 thwn to connect it. I have enough wire to add a second rod about 6ft away, which I will probably do.

That will terminate with one of these to a threaded hole on the back. All the egc's will be tied to another lug



From there, I'll have a few receptacles and some lighting, which I am thinking will all be 12 thwn in emt as I am not sure when or if I will drywall the interior.

I did need to pull a permit, so this will be inspected.

@sparky 1971 @wyliesdiesels any changes you would make?

 

[sparky 1971]

For electrical, I have 4x #10 copper xhhw already run out there. They're on a 20a two pole breaker, non gfci

Plan is to run that into a 4 gang box


And terminate on a 20a dual pole switch to act as a disconnect.

Then I'll change to #12 thwn to connect to a pair of gfci receptacles. The 4th gang is just to have some extra room in the box.

I drove a single 8' ground rod and got some #8 thwn to connect it. I have enough wire to add a second rod about 6ft away, which I will probably do.

That will terminate with one of these to a threaded hole on the back. All the egc's will be tied to another lug



From there, I'll have a few receptacles and some lighting, which I am thinking will all be 12 thwn in emt as I am not sure when or if I will drywall the interior.

I did need to pull a permit, so this will be inspected.

@sparky 1971 @wyliesdiesels any changes you would make?

I think it looks like a good plan. Personally, I like to put the disconnect switch in an out of the way place like knee high with an outdoor cover over it or behind a door to keep it from accidentally getting turned off, but that's just me. And I'm sure you already know this, but you don't need a ground rod(s), nothing wrong with a little overkill for lightning protection though.

 

[mike93lx]

I think it looks like a good plan. Personally, I like to put the disconnect switch in an out of the way place like knee high with an outdoor cover over it or behind a door to keep it from accidentally getting turned off, but that's just me.

Thanks.
Due to the length of the wiring that is already in place, it will be about 2' off the ground.

I guess I could put the switch in it's own box with a cover, then another for the gfci's. I do plan to use them as they will be close to the door, so I'd like to keep them easily accessible.

 

[sparky 1971]

Thanks.
Due to the length of the wiring that is already in place, it will be about 2' off the ground.

I guess I could put the switch in it's own box with a cover, then another for the gfci's. I do plan to use them as they will be close to the door, so I'd like to keep them easily accessible.

I probably didn't do a very good job of explaining. 2' off the ground sounds like the perfect height for the disconnect, just put a WP cover on it so it doesn't get accidentally turned off. A double pole decora switch and a GFCI flip cover would be perfect. Then, pipe up to the GFCI's and light switch, keeping them close to the door so they don't disappear behind the piles of sh, stuff you are destined to accumulate in there.

 

[mike93lx]

I probably didn't do a very good job of explaining. 2' off the ground sounds like the perfect height for the disconnect, just put a WP cover on it so it doesn't get accidentally turned off. A double pole decora switch and a GFCI flip cover would be perfect. Then, pipe up to the GFCI's and light switch, keeping them close to the door so they don't disappear behind the piles of sh, stuff you are destined to accumulate in there.

Yeah, I got you, I was just mentioning the wire length as a happy little accident.

This shed will stay perfectly organized and uncluttered. Forever

 

[larry4406]

At the day job, when the sparkies run limited power to a detached garage, they land the incoming power on line side of a gfi. From there everything is wired off the gfi load side. Course this is only 120V; sounds like you are running 240V.

Trip the gfi and it’s the disconnect.

They do similar for direct wire kitchen range hoods. It’s connected on the load side of the gfi for the cooktop which is in the cabinet. Eliminates the lockout at the panel.

 

[mike93lx]

At the day job, when the sparkies run limited power to a detached garage, they land the incoming power on line side of a gfi. From there everything is wired off the gfi load side. Course this is only 120V; sounds like you are running 240V.

Trip the gfi and it’s the disconnect.

They do similar for direct wire kitchen range hoods. It’s connected on the load side of the gfi for the cooktop which is in the cabinet. Eliminates the lockout at the panel.

Its a MWBC, so I could get 240 but the intention is 2x120. The gfci's will protect everything in the shed, I just have to make sure to keep the neutrals downstream separate from each other.

Frankly, I never thought of using the gfci as a disconnect, but since I have a MWBC, I think I need a single throw to kill power, so I had always planned on a switch

 

[mike93lx]

This weekend's work.

All went well with no injuries or major mess ups. The door header is slightly out of level, but I have plenty of room to fit the door, so it won't matter. No one will ever know

The masonry/slab isn't level, so we used a laser level to measure each stud for the side walls, then ran a chalk like across the top from side to side. Placed the top and bottom plate on the mudsill and rubbed each stud against the line to get a mark. No measuring and I could mark at the same speed as my buddy was cutting them. Worked perfectly

 

[PCustoms]

The door header is slightly out of level, but I have plenty of room to fit the door, so it won't matter. No one will ever know

We all will. Forever.





Looks good!

 

[thammel]

LOL!!!! We all know!!!!

 

[mike93lx]

But you guys won't tell anyone.

 

[mike93lx]

Trusses are ordered and have a ~2 week lead time. Hoping to sheathe the walls this weekend with either Zip or GP forcefield. I used forcefield on my smaller shed and it wasnt as nice as zip, but it's about half the cost and they are the same thickness.

If I can get 1/2" zip at a local lumberyard, I'll likely do that

Either way, I'll use zip tape as the gp stuff is hot garbage

Roof sheathing will be LP techshield... Osb with the foil coating. I'll hoping that between the radiant barrier, insulating the ceiling and running a dehumidifier that the space won't get oppressively hot

 

[bobg03]

This shed will stay perfectly organized and uncluttered. Forever

I've heard that statement before, lots of folks have tried. Just so we don't tell anyone about the door header we are going to require weekly photos that it is indeed "perfectly organized and uncluttered"

 

[dcg9381]

But you guys won't tell anyone.

It only counts if we spotted it first. Since you disclosed, no one will ever know.

It's like a cute mini-house. I'll send the kids your way when you're done.

 

[mike93lx]

I called a local lumberyard for pricing on Zip sheathing and they were over 25% less than the big box, plus they have 4x10 in stock, which will let me sheathe the front walls through the top plate and well into the end trusses. They only stock 7/16, but that will be plenty for this.

I also ordered Simpson truss screws, to use instead of hurricane clips

 

[PCustoms]

I called a local lumberyard for pricing on Zip sheathing and they were over 25% less than the big box, plus they have 4x10 in stock, which will let me sheathe the front walls through the top plate and well into the end trusses. They only stock 7/16, but that will be plenty for this.

I also ordered Simpson truss screws, to use instead of hurricane clips

Curious, what's a sheet of that go for?

 

[mike93lx]

Curious, what's a sheet of that go for?

4x8 is $28.10, 4x9 is 32.50 and 4x10 is 37.20

I was ready to buy 4x8's at Lowes for 39.01

 

[PCustoms]

4x8 is $28.10, 4x9 is 32.50 and 4x10 is 37.20

I was ready to buy 4x8's at Lowes for 39.01

4x8 is $41 at the orange borg here.

Damn.

 

[mike93lx]

4x8 is $41 at the orange borg here.

Damn.

Yeah, at 40, I wasn't happy but still wanted to use it over commodity osb at 20. For 28, it's an easy decision. The other option was gp forcefield at 21, but zip is much nicer quality.

I have a roll of house wrap that I was planning to use, but I guess it's time to try and sell it off

 

[larry4406]

@mike93lx are you using the special roller on the Zip tape? Apparently it embosses dimples in the applied tape. Their method of finding ways to deny warranty claims so I read.

I’ve no experience with the Zip. Been looking into the R9 insulated version for a possible master bath addition.

 

[mike93lx]

@mike93lx are you using the special roller on the Zip tape? Apparently it embosses dimples in the applied tape. Their method of finding ways to deny warranty claims so I read.

I’ve no experience with the Zip. Been looking into the R9 insulated version for a possible master bath addition.

I can't justify a $50 roller for a shed, but rolling the tape is important as it wets out the adhesive. I'll be rolling it with a simple j roller and a 3m applicator squeegee.

I used zip tape with the gp board on my other shed and used a squeegee for that. It worked fine.

If I was building a house, I would very likely use zip-r and I would likely use their roller for the warranty assurance

 

[mike93lx]

Trusses delivered and I picked up sheathing today. Might put a couple pieces up, but I'm hoping the weather cooperates next weekend to get it all up

 

[mike93lx]

I **** at sitting around

 

[PCustoms]

Missed a spot over on the left...

 

[mike93lx]

Missed a spot over on the left...

****!


We left that panel out to make it easier to get the trusses in and for us to move around. The fence makes it a bit of a pain

On the other side, a stud is right on the fence post, so I couldn't get the nail gun in. Will need to run screws there

 

[PCustoms]

The fence makes it a bit of a pain

Figured you had to modify that section or something.

Is there enough clearance for siding?

 

[mike93lx]

Figured you had to modify that section or something.

Is there enough clearance for siding?

Probably not. But that's february's problem

I may pull the post and set a new one. I have two slab mount ones from the section that crossed the deck, and that piece of fencing got damaged from a branch anyway