Portable A/C in the garage

[Matth3w]

Hello all. Found this place by google searching for my question but most of the threads from here didn’t seem to cover this or if they did, they didn’t make it to google.

I have a detailing shop in central Texas colocated with my home. Costs and wait times are astronomical right now for a split unit.

Was thinking of portable with the vent going through the door. Is my thinking flawed? Yeah a hassle to disconnect each time but still. I have a ton of tools what would you use to cut the door, which appears to be metal? Sawzall? Small 3” cutting disc? Can you take most kits that come with the portable and adapt to a door like that? What to use to finish on the outside? Any pics or advice or kits youve picked up at Home Depot or similar local stores so I can get a quick solution this weekend would be much appreciated.

to be honest it seems like most units are capped around 14k btu and not sure if that will be enough for my garage. I always read buy more than you think you need. It’s a standard modern two car which really barely fits much of anything but still. It’s texas. North facing garage but still gets around 90 in there which ***** for some of the chemical I use. I already run a dehumidifier so at least RH is around 20-30%

something like this maybe

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/ge-550-sq-ft-portable-air-conditioner-white/6390679.p?skuId=6390679

 

[Bigbandguy]

Your mileage may vary but I have one of those things in a 12 x 16 shed and it isn't worth a ****. Yes it puts out cool air, sort of but cooling a garage ? No way. I would check around for a working used 20000 btu window unit and enjoy the cool. I think you will be VERY disappointed with a portable. Good luck!

 

[Matth3w]

How would you use the window unit I have no windows…

 

[cmandp]

The short answer is yes you could use a portable to cool your garage. Assuming the unit is size appropriately to your garage. There are many online calculators that can help you, take an average of a few of them. What ever way you want to vent it outside will work.

More on portable A/C units: Most designs draw conditioned room air to cool the condenser instead of outside air like window or central A/C. This creates negative pressure in the room which can draw in outside (unconditioned) air. This makes them less efficient all things the same. So use the DOE SACC BTU rating not the ASHRAE rating when sizing or comparing to a window unit, the SACC rating better takes the previous fact into account.

Some portables have two hoses so that they cool the condenser with outside air, these are going to be almost as efficient as a window unit and for a big portable I'd try and find one that does.

You're probably finding portables are more expensive than a similar window unit too. Also any condensate will collect in the bottom try of the unit and if it gets full you will have to empty it; for your garage you could pribably just wheel it out the door and drain it outside. This does not happen often with even our cheap portable, but usually a couple times during the cooling season.

 

[Matth3w]

The short answer is yes you could use a portable to cool your garage. Assuming the unit is size appropriately to your garage. There are many online calculators that can help you, take an average of a few of them. What ever way you want to vent it outside will work.

More on portable A/C units: Most designs draw conditioned room air to cool the condenser instead of outside air like window or central A/C. This creates negative pressure in the room which can draw in outside (unconditioned) air. This makes them less efficient all things the same. So use the DOE SACC BTU rating not the ASHRAE rating when sizing or comparing to a window unit, the SACC rating better takes the previous fact into account.

Some portables have two hoses so that they cool the condenser with outside air, these are going to be almost as efficient as a window unit and for a big portable I'd try and find one that does.

You're probably finding portables are more expensive than a similar window unit too. Also any condensate will collect in the bottom try of the unit and if it gets full you will have to empty it; for your garage you could pribably just wheel it out the door and drain it outside. This does not happen often with even our cheap portable, but usually a couple times during the cooling season.

Thank you for the reply. I was wondering what the DOE rating was. I really don’t see many that I can buy that have enough DOE BTU for a 500-550sqft garage.

 

[metlmunchr]

Do you have an exterior man door on the garage? If so, have you looked at mounting a window unit thru that door? Or cutting a hole thru the wall to mount a unit? Most window units in the 12K to 15K btu range can be mounted thru a wall that's 7" to 8" thick without interfering with condenser air flow.

While your dehumidifier may be controlling humidity, it's also heating your garage. Taking a typical 50 pint unit as an example, it will draw about 550 watts which is all converted to heat. Roughly 1875 btu/hr. A pint of water weighs roughly one pound, so the unit will remove 2# of water per hour. That water gives up about 1000 btu/lb to condense from vapor to liquid, so that's an additional 2000 btu/hr for a total of 3875 btu/hr of heat that's being pumped into the space to get rid of the humidity.

If your garage is reasonably well insulated, a 15000 btu window unit would do a good job of cooling and controlling humidity.

 

[Bigbandguy]

To amplify my previous post. You had already mentioned possibly cutting the door so my assumption was that a window unit could also be mounted in the door and would be more efficient than a portable. The portable I have is one of the single hose units which is why it is so inefficient. One possibility might be to get a surplus (read cheap) wooden door to take the place of the present door and cut through that . That way you could remount the original door when you get around to installing a mini split or cutting a hole through the wall for the window unit. I was under the impression that you were in a hurry to get something working by the weekend.

 

[Terry D]

These look like a window AC but are made to be installed through a wall with a sleeve. You would never be able to seal a regular window unit installed through a wall

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/air-conditioners-accessories/pelonis-14-000-btu-230-volt-through-the-wall-air-conditioner-with-heat/pat14h2zwt/p-1568960809446-c-1497103338431.htm?tid=7456554819259101415&ipos=3

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/air-conditioners-accessories/pelonis-through-the-wall-air-conditioner-sleeve/pttw01/p-1568960810547.htm

 

[Sneezer]

Build a wooden frame for the main door to roll down on and rest, and mount a window unit through the frame? Would be at floor level but you wouldn't have to cut the door/wall to mount a window unit. I seem to recall seeing some shops were people mounted units to a rolling mount and used heavy plastic curtain walls to block the door gaps. Turn it on in the morning and work until late afternoon when the heat overpowers such a contraption.

Never done it myself, but considered it to try. TX summers are brutal.

 

[Showkey]

While your dehumidifier may be controlling humidity, it's also heating your garage. Taking a typical 50 pint unit as an example, it will draw about 550 watts which is all converted to heat. Roughly 1875 btu/hr. A pint of water weighs roughly one pound, so the unit will remove 2# of water per hour. That water gives up about 1000 btu/lb to condense from vapor to liquid, so that's an additional 2000 btu/hr for a total of 3875 btu/hr of heat that's being pumped into the space to get rid of the humidity.

If your garage is reasonably well insulated, a 15000 btu window unit would do a good job of cooling and controlling humidity.

That has been hashed and rehashed on the forum a dozen times……..if the dehumidifier is in a small closet it will raise the temperature slightly, in a garage, home or basement the heat gain is insignificant. The cold evaporator coil is right next to the warm condenser coil.


Not a portable AC but here’s another current TX shop cooling thread………as mention TX summers are brutal

Ac not cooling shop?

I have a 30x50-12 red iron steel building and put r30 insulation in. It's about 83 degrees outside and it's barely keeping the shop at 78 degrees. The heater worked fine over the winter. How come the a.c. doesn't work as good? It's a good man 5 ton 14 seer heat pump system 60,000 btu. I used my...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[planestrainsandcars]

Without a window that is tough. I have thought about this myself. I can only imagine that your best shot is getting enough of a monster portable unit to cool the garage, and then sealing an outlet through the wall, similar to what others have said.

But its going to likely have to be one monster of a unit,

I honestly think you are looking more at something like this to actually get results!

Industrial Air Conditioner - 16,800 BTU H-8772 - ULINE

KWIKOOL Roll it in. Cool down your workspace, assembly area or repair shop. Lowers air temperature by up to 20 F. Adjustable thermostat. Two flexible air chutes blow cold air up to 5 feet away. 3.5-gallon condensate tank with overflow protection. Automatic restart after a power failure. 8' power...

www.uline.com

Could be worth the price depending on your situation.

 

[American Locomotive]

Don't waste your time on a portable unit. They are garbage.

Punch a hole through the wall, and get a through-wall unit. If your garage is around 500 sq. ft, a 10k unit would do just fine if not be oversized.

 

[Terry D]

Don't waste your time on a portable unit. They are garbage.

Punch a hole through the wall, and get a through-wall unit. If your garage is around 500 sq. ft, a 10k unit would do just fine if not be oversized.

I agree, portable AC's, at least the ones that I have seen are not that good. If you cant get a mini split, a thru the wall unit would be your next best choice. They are basically a window unit, but are designed to fit in a sleeve. You can pull the unit out for easier cleaning. They even have them where they are also a small heat pump. Only disadvantage is that they are noisier than a mini split

 

[theoldwizard1]

A standard 2 car garage is 4000 sq ft. With no/little insulation in the ceiling it will take a LOT of BTUs to keep it down to even 80F in TX !

 

[metlmunchr]

While your dehumidifier may be controlling humidity, it's also heating your garage. Taking a typical 50 pint unit as an example, it will draw about 550 watts which is all converted to heat. Roughly 1875 btu/hr. A pint of water weighs roughly one pound, so the unit will remove 2# of water per hour. That water gives up about 1000 btu/lb to condense from vapor to liquid, so that's an additional 2000 btu/hr for a total of 3875 btu/hr of heat that's being pumped into the space to get rid of the humidity.

That has been hashed and rehashed on the forum a dozen times……..if the dehumidifier is in a small closet it will raise the temperature slightly, in a garage, home or basement the heat gain is insignificant. The cold evaporator coil is right next to the warm condenser coil.

The only hash would be ignorant opinion versus scientifically established thermodynamic and heat transfer principles.

It is a FACT that all energy consumed by any electrical device is ultimately converted to heat. Doesn't matter whether it's a 550 watt hotplate, a 550 watt light bulb, or a 550 watt dehumidifier.

It's also a FACT that approximately 1000 btu must be extracted from a pint of water vapor to convert it to liquid.

Then there's the FACT that none of this heat magically disappears. It is rejected into the room to add to existing heat sources.

In the example I used above, based on published characteristics of a readily available 50 pint dehumidifier, the heat added to the room would amount to 3875 btu/hr, just as I said previously. If you truly think the proximity of the evaporator to the condenser has any effect on total heat rejection, I suggest you try arguing about things you actually have some knowledge of in the future.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

A standard 2 car garage is 4000 sq ft. With no/little insulation in the ceiling it will take a LOT of BTUs to keep it down to even 80F in TX !

more like 400sqft. 20' x20' or so.

 

[planestrainsandcars]

Well all I can say is this, if you really do need technically "portable" these are on wheels, but they are industrial, they make them in 40,000 and 60,000 BTU sizes!

$4000 and $10000 respectively.

Commercial Portable ACs | Shop Industrial Portable Air Conditioner Systems | Global Industrial

Discover high-performance industrial and commercial portable air conditioners at Global Industrial. Beat the heat with reliable cooling solutions for your HVAC needs.

www.globalindustrial.com

I have a hunch the 60,000 BTU size would get the job done in Texas, but truth betold I think you guys are right,

An In WALL unit is going to be cheaper, something like this from Home Depot, $5000, 60,000 BTUs.

Pioneer Multi 60,000 BTU 5 Ton 21.3 SEER Quint (5 Zone) Wall Mount Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 230-Volt 16 ft. WYS050GMHI22M5 - The Home Depot

Quickly spread warm air throughout your home with the selection of this excellent Pioneer Multi Quint Wall Mount Air Conditioner Heat Pump.

www.homedepot.com

At least there are options out there. And let it be said, 60,000 BTU "portable" units exist!

 

[Showkey]

The only hash would be ignorant opinion versus scientifically established thermodynamic and heat transfer principles.

It is a FACT that all energy consumed by any electrical device is ultimately converted to heat. Doesn't matter whether it's a 550 watt hotplate, a 550 watt light bulb, or a 550 watt dehumidifier.

It's also a FACT that approximately 1000 btu must be extracted from a pint of water vapor to convert it to liquid.

Then there's the FACT that none of this heat magically disappears. It is rejected into the room to add to existing heat sources.

In the example I used above, based on published characteristics of a readily available 50 pint dehumidifier, the heat added to the room would amount to 3875 btu/hr, just as I said previously. If you truly think the proximity of the evaporator to the condenser has any effect on total heat rejection, I suggest you try arguing about things you actually have some knowledge of in the future.

Please put a dehumidifier in small closet run it 24-48 hours and report back.
Then put it in 20x20 garage for week or two and report back.

Then read the article done by Santa FE that mention 2* possible rise.

Heat Generated by a Dehumidifier | Santa Fe & Ultra Aire by Santa Fe

The small amount of heat generated by a dehumidifier is normal and will not increase the temperature of your home. Click to learn more.

www.santa-fe-products.com

 

[u3b3rg33k]

Please put a dehumidifier in small closet run it 24-48 hours and report back.
Then put it in 20x20 garage for week or two and report back.

Then read the article done by Santa FE that mention 2* possible rise.

Heat Generated by a Dehumidifier | Santa Fe & Ultra Aire by Santa Fe

The small amount of heat generated by a dehumidifier is normal and will not increase the temperature of your home. Click to learn more.

www.santa-fe-products.com

as long as the dehumidifier control is dialed into a reasonable setpoint (77° and 45% relative humidity is recommended by ASHRAE). Setting the RH% too low (ex: 35%RH) will result in further run time on the unit and additional heat output.

he is correct with his statements. all the energy put into a dehumidifier, AND the latent heat "recovered" by pulling water out of the air is dumped into your garage/dwelling. that's just math.

heating up your house by "only" 2 degrees with a dehumidifier is not insignificant.

 

[jbtvt]

Link says 2-4 degrees, at 77*. That's what the BTUs work out to, you're saying the same thing. Personally, when my house is 77* I'm not trying to turn that into 81*. Point is that he's running a heater while trying to find a solution to cool the garage.

I have both window and portable units but would also vote for through wall for your situation, if it's seeing much use. My 10k btu window unit will hold the room about 75 on a 90 degree day. Much more than 12k and you'll need 240v, think I've seen 110v up to 14k though.

You could also run a portable unit's tube to a 6" through wall vent if you don't want to go for a true through wall. Insulate that pipe though, they get hot! I took a portable unit apart recently and used the blower to vent my garage and cool it down at nights here in the northeast, see screenshots.

 

[shade]

60k portable units generate a ton of heat which needs to be vented. Keep in mind the vent tubes on these units are huge. We have one at a last ditch effort in a small data center. The vent tube is designed to go straight up into a ceiling for heat escape

 

[MushCreek]

I found this thread doing a search on portable A/C units. In my case, I'd like to use one in my insulated basement. It's not too bad; maybe 76 (and humid) in the summer. I run a dehumidifier, which helps, but it does raise the temperature a bit. My issue is that I have windows- casement windows. I figured I could made a Lexan piece to take the place of the window screen, and run the hose(s) out that way. Unless there's a way to mount a window A/C in a casement window?

 

[Terry D]

I found this thread doing a search on portable A/C units. In my case, I'd like to use one in my insulated basement. It's not too bad; maybe 76 (and humid) in the summer. I run a dehumidifier, which helps, but it does raise the temperature a bit. My issue is that I have windows- casement windows. I figured I could made a Lexan piece to take the place of the window screen, and run the hose(s) out that way. Unless there's a way to mount a window A/C in a casement window?

They make casement window A/C's

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/air-conditioners-accessories/denali-aire-10-000-btu-115-volt-casement-window-air-conditioner/1dacs10k/p-1569565676077.htm

 

[MushCreek]

In looking that one over, you basically fit a filler panel to cover the opening that the A/C unit doesn't. It says that the maximum window height is 39"; mine is 59". I could just do the same thing with a regular window unit. I could just make a window sash to fit the opening, and secure it somehow.

 

[Sumboodie]

That has been hashed and rehashed on the forum a dozen times……..if the dehumidifier is in a small closet it will raise the temperature slightly, in a garage, home or basement the heat gain is insignificant. The cold evaporator coil is right next to the warm condenser coil.


Not a portable AC but here’s another current TX shop cooling thread………as mention TX summers are brutal

Ac not cooling shop?

I have a 30x50-12 red iron steel building and put r30 insulation in. It's about 83 degrees outside and it's barely keeping the shop at 78 degrees. The heater worked fine over the winter. How come the a.c. doesn't work as good? It's a good man 5 ton 14 seer heat pump system 60,000 btu. I used my...

www.garagejournal.com

No way!

I've heated my whole home in the fall by running the dehumidifier.

I have a wood kiln, it's primarily heated to 125* by the dehumidifier.

 

[Showkey]

No way!

I've heated my whole home in the fall by running the dehumidifier.

If that was true in my case ….my 1000 sqft well insulated shop with no AC, running a dehumidifier constantly should be + 80*……but……it‘s 66* with humidity of hovering 45%-50%, then dropping humidity by 7% raised the temp 1* …….but……. my guess is the 20 plus light fixtures had more effect on the temperature.

 

[Sumboodie]

If that was true in my case ….my 1000 sqft well insulated shop with no AC, running a dehumidifier constantly should be + 80*……but……it‘s 66* with humidity of hovering 45%-50%, then dropping humidity by 7% raised the temp 1* …….but……. my guess is the 20 plus light fixtures had more effect on the temperature.

No idea what you have going on, but it somehow defies the laws of physics.

 

[Showkey]

It’s not that complex.
The typical portable dehumidifier might be 400-600 watts. While they are not particularly efficient.
After the work is done consuming those watts, the work is the fan moving air and compressor pumping the refrigerant to 200 PSI on the high side.

Theres not all that much wasted power left as heat since we started with 500 watts……some but not much. Estimated waste energy lost in heat might a 100-150 watts. Even its higher say 200 watts it’s not all that much in the grand scheme. Even if the 100% inefficient ( which is ridiculous ) 500 watts is not warming a 1000 sqft a whole lot. Back to all those lights 20 +100 watt lights.

Which puts it right back at other prior posts 100-150 watts in a small closet might raise the temperature slightly…….in a large room or home its insignificant.

I am done with this waste of energy and time.

 

[jbtvt]

Theres not all that much wasted power left as heat since we started with 500 watts……some but not much. Estimated waste energy lost in heat might a 100-150 watts. Even its higher say 200 watts it’s not all that much in the grand scheme. Even if the 100% inefficient ( which is ridiculous ) 500 watts is not warming a 1000 sqft a whole lot. Back to all those lights 20 +100 watt lights.

Where would the remainder of this electrical input be dissipated? I never took an official physics class, but as I understand it, all energy ultimately becomes heat. Sound waves and light become heat on absorption with the surrounding materials, kinetic energy becomes heat via friction, etc.

You can make a more "efficient" compressor system that dissipates less energy directly as heat, via more effective power supplies, lower internal compressor friction, etc, but ultimately all electrical input is dissipated as heat.

In a window or portable AC unit some of that heat is pumped outside, but in a dehumidifier the only potential energy that isn't released in the same room as the dehumidifier itself (hopefully) is the condensed water. But liquid is lower potential energy than vapor, so if anything, this variable is actually raising the room heat even more.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't think so...

Certainly if you're still using 100 watt incandescent bulbs (20 of them or should that + have been a range?), rather than 10 watt LEDs that could be a much greater potential heat savings as well.

 

[American Locomotive]

All of the power consumed by the dehumidifier will be turned into heat that gets rejected into the space. It doesn't matter how efficient the dehumidifier is - every single watt it consumes will be turned into heat. A more "efficient" dehumidifier will just remove more water per unit of electricity, but a low-efficiency dehumidifier drawing 500 watts and a high-efficiency dehumidifier drawing 500 watts will still put 500 watts of heat into the space. 500 watts is around 1700 BTU/hr.

Even a simple fan actually heats the air. If you have a fan that uses 50w - even if it had a 100% efficient motor and blade, the kinetic energy it's adding to the air molecules blowing them around will eventually result in 50w of heat into the space.

...and actually with dehumidifiers, the unit has to extract heat energy from the water to condense it. Water vapor holds a tremendous amount of energy. A dehumidifier has to remove ~1050/btu of heat from every pound of water vapor to condense it. A typical dehumidifier will condense ~9 gallons of water a day maximum, which works out to about 3 pounds per hour.

So a dehumidifier in a humid room, running full out, is going to be adding ~4,000-4,500 BTU/hr worth of heat to a space.

 

[wmk0002]

All of the power consumed by the dehumidifier will be turned into heat that gets rejected into the space. It doesn't matter how efficient the dehumidifier is - every single watt it consumes will be turned into heat. A more "efficient" dehumidifier will just remove more water per unit of electricity, but a low-efficiency dehumidifier drawing 500 watts and a high-efficiency dehumidifier drawing 500 watts will still put 500 watts of heat into the space. 500 watts is around 1700 BTU/hr.

Even a simple fan actually heats the air. If you have a fan that uses 50w - even if it had a 100% efficient motor and blade, the kinetic energy it's adding to the air molecules blowing them around will eventually result in 50w of heat into the space.

...and actually with dehumidifiers, the unit has to extract heat energy from the water to condense it. Water vapor holds a tremendous amount of energy. A dehumidifier has to remove ~1050/btu of heat from every pound of water vapor to condense it. A typical dehumidifier will condense ~9 gallons of water a day maximum, which works out to about 3 pounds per hour.

So a dehumidifier in a humid room, running full out, is going to be adding ~4,000-4,500 BTU/hr worth of heat to a space.

Do they make humidifiers that pump/exhaust the heat out like they have on the portable style air conditioners?

 

[Jagmandave]

Jeez louise you guys went off topic....

No on the portable, it's a waste of time and money. Either buy a good window unit - mine has a heat strip also since I'm in Kansas and it gets cold here - but you might not need that in Tx. Or maybe one of the hotel/motel units, again, mounted thru the wall. They are far more efficient that a portable and will def cool your garage/shop down. My garage is just about 600 sq ft and I have a 22K BTU window A/C that will keep my shop at 65* on a 100* day. (and I do keep it that cool when I'm working hard in the shop) My shop is somewhat insulated as it's the garage under the bedrooms of a split level house, but my garage doors don't fit all that well so I get a lot of leakage.

Cut a hole on the cool side of the garage if you can, frame it up and screw it in. You will have to run a 240V 30A supply for a big window or motel unit but you will LOVE how pleasant it is to work in there.

Mine cost $550 on amazon and adds about $20 - 30 a month to my summer utility bill if I use it a lot - worth it for sure.

 

[American Locomotive]

Do they make humidifiers that pump/exhaust the heat out like they have on the portable style air conditioners?

A dehumidifier that pumps the heat outside is an air conditioner.

 

[Mark in Baltimore]

FWIW, I ran a dehumidifier in my old garage one summer, thinking that pulling the moisture out of the air would make the space more tolerable. Wrong. It was drier, but the garage with so much more ridiculously hotter than before that it was even more inhospitable for me to work in. I removed the dehumidifier and went back to using fans.

 

[nascartamike]

I tried the portable air conditioner route here in Texas. No way! I had a small rolling model then added an expensive two hose unit, cut the holes in my brick, and it didn't put a dent into our Texas heat. I'm currently researching a thru the wall unit. I'm sure my neighbors nor my HOA would appreciate me hanging a window unit at the front of the house.

 

[cabin fever]

Some people really over think things.

Ive done three window ac’s through the wall with no issues what so ever with any of then.

I did move the brackets so the unit sits a little different. Sealed it up good and called it a day. I’ll take some the pics of the one i currently have now. My garage is 1000 sq ft with 10ft walls and insualted decently in the walls and ceilling. I currently only have 1 10, 000 btu unit which isnt enough but is way better than nothing. The garage was actually built with 2 units in mind so i have an outlet where the 2nd one will go and the 2nd will be installed when funds allow. Both aremounted about 7.5ft high on the east side wall in the shade.

i wouldnt even waste my time with a portable unit. Ive never been around one that is worth a ****

i live in the midwest. Today its high of 95 degrees, and very high humidity. If i turn the one ac on when its hot and hunid in the garage it takes forever to cool but it does cool. If i turn it on when its cool it maintains 75-80 easily and takes the humidity out which makes a huge difference.

 

[Bert_]

I cool my house with 2 window units, one upstairs and one on the main floor. Main floor is 18,000btu in about 1000sq/ft. Works good.

I would not put one in a wall. I've lived in a couple houses that were done that way. Challenging to make water tight. Need to cover the inside with plastic or it's very drafty during winter.

 

[Jagmandave]

My shop is cooled with a 25K BTU 240V window A/C-heater, I built it into the bottom half of a double hung and it does an amazing job of cooling my shop - if I forget and leave it on while I go to lunch I'll come back to a 65* shop! Our house is a split level so the shop (2 car garage) is insulated and under the bedrooms of the house so it stays pretty OK even in the hottest or coldest days, but when it's humid and 95* out or 10* in the winter it's a treat. (today it's currently 97* with 88% humididity! the shop is a very pleasant 75* after running the A/C for only about 1 hour)

 

[TractorJeff]

I believe a 500 watt motor at 90% efficiency only loses 10% of its power to heat.
My neighbor has his A/C mounted over the door.

 

[American Locomotive]

I believe a 500 watt motor at 90% efficiency only loses 10% of its power to heat.
My neighbor has his A/C mounted over the door.

Doesn't really matter how efficient the motor is. All of the power the motor consumes will end up as heat in the room through some means or another.