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Problem with MaxJax anchor install

joek

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
8
I need some advice. After I discovered that my floor was different thicknesses (ranging from 3" to 3.75") I cut and poured 2 3'x3'x12" pads for the posts. It'll be obvious why I'm mentioning this.

Prior to even ordering the lift I had purchased 3 of the PD58 anchors from Drillspot and installed one in another location to see if my floor would accept them. This was before I discovered that my floor varied in thickness. These 3 anchors ended up being different from the ones I received with the lift. These 3 had what I'd call barbs sticking off the sleeve, which I assume help the sleeve expand as the anchor is being pulled up. The anchors I received with the lift just had small bumps on the sleeve. I believe this is why I am having issues.

I had problems with 3 of the anchors pulling up when I torqued the bolts with the lift (after the setting procedure). I was successful in getting 2 of the anchors to grab by simply pushing them farther down in the hole and purchasing longer bolts. The final anchor will just not set. Here's is where the pad depth comes into play. I cannot just push the anchor through because I couldn't find a 12" drill bit, I could only find an 8" one.

I have attempted to pull the anchor up using a block of wood with a hole it, but I'm just compressing the wood. Right now it sits about 1/2" out of the hole. The way I see it I have two options: cut off what is above the floor and bang it down as far as possible and purchase another PD58 hoping it is the version with the barbs, or move the posts. If I move the posts I'd have to drill another 8 holes and purchase 8 anchors (and they would be epoxy). I'd really rather not do this.

Are there any other options I'm not thinking of?
 
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regguy1

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Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
4,055
Location
On Mount Olympus with Zeus
See this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71225

I copied and pasted this from another post I made, I had some issues with the anchor installation this might be of help during your install:Here's the update, I've got the lift installed and running. It looks like a nice unit. The power unit is quieter than I thought it would be. Installation was straight forward.

I think setting of the anchors is the most critical part of the installation procedure. A couple of things I'll mention from my experience of this one installation. Let me say this first, I'm not a pro lift installer and the following are my opinions only. Drill the holes as per instructions. Do a through job of cleaning the holes. Even though the supplied anchors (Wej-It PD58) are not specificly epoxy style units I'd recommend using a good quality epoxy for additional integrity of anchor bond to concrete. I coated the hole and the exterior of anchors before driving them in. Drive them the 5/8" below concrete as instructions call for, I wouldn't go less.

Now thread the sacraficial bolt with washer and nut finger tight into the anchor, hold the bolt head (you do not want the anchor to rotate in the hole) and tighten the nut to set the anchor, the lift instruction booklet says tighen until anchor is flush with the concrete surface.....The instructions that came in the box of anchors say no more than 4 turns for the 5/8" bolts size. I found that at about 3 turns I could feel the anchors bite hard into the concrete even though they were still 1/8" -3/16" below the surface of floor. I think it's fine (and even preferable) to leave them slightly down because when you tighten the bolts to the base plate if the anchor is not holding properly you'll realize it when torquing the bolts, but with the anchor flush it can contact the bottom of the base plate and feel tight even though not fully anchored in the hole.

Page 13 step 14 of the lift installation manual tells you to install anchor bolts to base plate and tighten 3 to 3 3/4 turns. I believe this is in error, the anchors have already been set with the bolt and nut procedure. These bolts should be torqued betweem 70-95 Ft Lbs according to Wej-it (95) and Dannmar (70).

I found it impossible to get 3+ turns after anchors were set and it caused a couple anchors to pull up (perhaps they rotated in the hole and lost grip ?) and I have to replace them.

I like the lift, it will be very useful in my shop.

I hope this is helpful.
 
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joek

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
8
Thanks, I had read that before I even started. That is the procedure I used. The only thing I can think of is the hole got enlarged somehow. The drill bit was brand new and had only drilled 6 holes, but perhaps that was enough to put the holes out of tolerance.
 

drmoonshine

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Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
327
Location
Oxnard, California
Thanks, I had read that before I even started. That is the procedure I used. The only thing I can think of is the hole got enlarged somehow. The drill bit was brand new and had only drilled 6 holes, but perhaps that was enough to put the holes out of tolerance.

You could refill the hole and start over.
 
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joek

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
8
I thought of another option, but I'm not sure it will work. I could bang the anchor down then enlarge the top few inches of the hole and try and pull the anchor up. Then I could use an epoxy anchor in it's place. I know I saw 1" drill bits at HD, I wonder if an additional 1/8" would give me enough clearance to pull the anchor out...
 
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rickycobra

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Sep 9, 2010
Messages
292
I thought of another option, but I'm not sure it will work. I could bang the anchor down then enlarge the top few inches of the hole and try and pull the anchor up. Then I could use an epoxy anchor in it's place. I know I saw 1" drill bits at HD, I wonder if an additional 1/8" would give me enough clearance to pull the anchor out...

That may work the only to find out it to try it.
 
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joek

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
8
16 days old. It was 5000psi concrete with a rating of 3500psi at 7 days so I figured I was good to go. I think the problems have more to do with the design of the anchor sleeve. I think the new design with the "barbs" would have worked just fine. That's evidenced by me using 2 of them without any problems.

Any more opinions on my hole-enlarging idea?
 

racerock

Active member
Joined
Nov 2, 2009
Messages
40
16 days old. It was 5000psi concrete with a rating of 3500psi at 7 days so I figured I was good to go. I think the problems have more to do with the design of the anchor sleeve. I think the new design with the "barbs" would have worked just fine. That's evidenced by me using 2 of them without any problems.

Any more opinions on my hole-enlarging idea?

Assuming I read the above properly...

I would suggest considering cutting it, and then accurately use a hammer type center punch and a good metal bit with lubrication and drill the sucker out using small bits at first, and getting larger until the wall thickness is pretty thin and it might come up. It might even be caught on a drill and come up. Or an easy out if you have one...They never work for me in metal to metal, but in this cawse it might.
 

Thruxton

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Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
767
Location
Virginia
16 days old. It was 5000psi concrete with a rating of 3500psi at 7 days so I figured I was good to go. I think the problems have more to do with the design of the anchor sleeve. I think the new design with the "barbs" would have worked just fine. That's evidenced by me using 2 of them without any problems.

Any more opinions on my hole-enlarging idea?

IMHO your concrete is not cured enough for this application. Check with the manufacturer, I think they will recommend another 3-4 weeks cure time, and new holes. 2 weeks is really not very much time at all in my experience. The 3500 psi I believe (and I am no engineer) refers to strength in compression, but doesn't have much to do with fastener loads (probably inexact term). Hopefully the more experienced will contribute here. The anchor sleeve design, I think, has very little to do with your problem.
 
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