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Project `52 DiamondT towrig/RV

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E.rodz

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Nov 11, 2009
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2,434
Location
st.paul MN.
oh my this is one of my dream projects! I saw one years ago and it that one had a Cummins powering it. awesome in every way shape and form I am in love with this build already!:drool::thumbup:
 
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RoosterBooster

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
again, thank you all for the positive comments...
i`m glad you guys enjoy this project :beer:

with the passage done for now i moved on to framing the rest of the subframe
as well as the entry step "box"

DSC_1357.JPG


in between i used two seats from my van to visualize the "airliner" rear seating configuration

DSC_1391.JPG


almost finished ... (there are a LOT of welds in that floor/subframe :yikes:)
the elevated bed gives me plenty of clearance for the big diesel tank

DSC_1396.JPG


the recessed entry
i actually regret that i made only one wide step
two would be shorter but more comfortable ... oh well; too late now :p

DSC_1397.JPG


the bathroom framing with the beginning of the storage/tank compartment under it
i connected the compartment with the entry box on the other side for rigidity as well as to surround the chassis
this way i have a place to mount the upwards bumpstops
and ensure that the subframe is mechanically locked in place in the event of an accident

DSC_1402.JPG


mocked up the sleeper with a couple sheets of particle board

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now the madness with the different elevations starts to make sense :lol_hitti

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Fyrme

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Nov 28, 2012
Messages
2,231
Location
Green country, Oklahoma
I love the repurpose of the pallet rack beams. I have often thought of using them for projects before. They have a serious weight rating for the light weight piece of steel that they are. You definitely build things Pirate style. Have you ever thought it may be a little overkill? Or would you do it again the same way?
 
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RoosterBooster

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
... Have you ever thought it may be a little overkill? Or would you do it again the same way?

besides maybe building it a little lighter i would probably do it exactly the same way again. ;)
however, with everything else of the structure made off aluminum i`m already fairly light ...
and the MDT chassis definitely does not care about a couple lbs of steel

the air ride is working very well ... it is amazing how much of the road harshness gets absorbed by it
initially more complex to build, but the gain of isolation and comfort is well worth it.

another advantage of the platform is the ability to join the cab and the sleeper rigidly together.

at my old rig ...

normal_dscf1812.jpg


... i had the cab, sleeper and box all individually mounted to the chassis,
with rubber bellows in the passages to each other
(i added the "sleeper to box" passage later to allow access to the restroom when driving)
this was also done to allow chassis twist for driving offroad out to the dunes
but the groaning & squeaking of the boots (right behind the ears) drove me nuts
the stress for the boots was also high
(i got fatigue cracks from the constant movement and the exposure to the elements)

talking about my old Truck;
what bugged me the most was that i shortened the box to add the sleeper
if i would build a towrig/rv based on a boxtruck again i would keep it full length
(no sleeper) but i would cut the height down drastically.
my box was a 102" wide tall cube ... it definitely did not like to be pushed against the wind :eyecrazy:
and the wallowing on rough- or off- roads was sometimes uncomfortable
(especially when trying to sleep in the upper bunkbed on long trips :puke:
 
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RoosterBooster

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
with the subframe finished for now i moved on to disassembling the trailer.

the `54 Manor was built by Spartan Aircraft Co in Tulsa, OK ...and it shows;
unlike the flimsy Airstream trailers they used a lot of formed spars and a shiatload of rivets for a very sturdy "aircraft fuselage" like construction.

after drilling out rivets for days :)eyecrazy:) i was finally able to take off the roof
here it is, upside down and shortened to the sleeper length;

DSC_1457.JPG


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the complete roof is surprisingly lightweight;
i was able to lift it onto the truck by myself without much effort :thumbup:

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i decided to set it at 6' inside height;
not standup height for me (i`m 6'3") ,
but the low riding look as well as aerodynamics (and the ability for the rig to clear a 10' garage door) was of higher priority

DSC_1483.JPG


after squaring and leveling the roof i fastened it to the "rollbar"
and started filling the voids with aluminum framing

DSC_1535.JPG


unfortunately the only other part that i could use without complete disassembly was the rounded lower end section...
everything else will basically be a new construction with old material :p

DSC_1537.JPG


DSC_1523.JPG
 
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RoosterBooster

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
How are you joining the aluminum framing to the steel framing of the lower chassis ?

Eric

the framing is connected to the steel with aluminum L-brackets and rivets
to limit/avoid electrolysis of the dis-similar metals i painted the steel surfaces first
(the palette beams have been powdercoated, so i left that surface intact wherever i could)
additionally i used strips of ~.045" thick 3M UHMW tape (Ultra high molecular weight) under the L-brackets
i later used the same 3M tape wherever the skin was contacting & riveted to the steel
moisture that creeps in between the metals is also a factor in electrolysis,
so after finishing the rough construction i coated all the inside gaps with a heavy coat of elastomeric paint ("snow roof" coating)

here are some pics of when i started fitting the skin panels ;

DSC_1626.JPG


everything is temporary assembled with Clecos (they are basically a spring loaded temporary rivet)
they allow me to hold the panels exactly in place to pre-drill all the rivet holes
and then take everything apart for de-burring, cleanup and painting the steel surfaces

DSC_1621.JPG


all the drilling for the 5/16" rivets is done with a #13 drill (slightly undersized)
at final assembly all holes need to be re-drilled with a #11 (exactly 5/16") for a strong & tight fit of the rivets.

sleeper starts to look like something;

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still has a lot of panels missing ....
 

GRN96WS6

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Dec 23, 2012
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Location
SOMD
Is it only you sleeping in there? Will you have a genset and a fridge and stove?
 

BUGTHUG

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Nov 12, 2010
Messages
2,960
Location
Kansas
I think using the other trailer in the back, with the rounded ends would make it cut thru the wind better. But it looks very nice, and a lot of work.
I don't know if I missed it somewhere or not, but curious as what your profession is? I'm sure it something mechanical?
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,912
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Eric

the framing is connected to the steel with aluminum L-brackets and rivets
to limit/avoid electrolysis of the dis-similar metals i painted the steel surfaces first
(the palette beams have been powdercoated, so i left that surface intact wherever i could)
additionally i used strips of ~.045" thick 3M UHMW tape (Ultra high molecular weight) under the L-brackets
i later used the same 3M tape wherever the skin was contacting & riveted to the steel
moisture that creeps in between the metals is also a factor in electrolysis,
so after finishing the rough construction i coated all the inside gaps with a heavy coat of elastomeric paint ("snow roof" coating)
....

Thanks. :beer:
 
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RoosterBooster

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
Is it only you sleeping in there? Will you have a genset and a fridge and stove?

no, not right now, yes and no :p

we usually camp with our dogs in the trailer that we tow, but the truck sleeper works well as a kinda "guest bedroom"
the main purpose of the sleeper is to be as comfortable as possible for long distance traveling.
the bed is nice to take a nap when taking turns driving or to simply kick back a little...
... if the bed is not already occupied by one of the dogs :wtf:



I think using the other trailer in the back, with the rounded ends would make it cut thru the wind better. But it looks very nice, and a lot of work.
I don't know if I missed it somewhere or not, but curious as what your profession is? I'm sure it something mechanical?

when i grew up in Switzerland i learned finish carpentry after school (a 4 year apprenticeship) ...
most of my younger working life i traveled from jobsite to jobsite all over Europa
(mainly building/installing the interiors of high end Hotels/ Bar`s/ Restaurants and Businesses)
that way i got confronted with many materials and fab techniques
(you learn a lot by watching other pros performing their trade ... and pick up lots of jobside profanity at the same time :spit: )

now i enjoy designing & building all kinds of special vehicles
i definitely have a soft spot for "vintage" (appearing) vehicles and for working with aluminum and rivets ;)

here is the next series of pics;

i got a little tired of drilling countless rivet holes so i started with the truck bed
initially i wanted to do a beaver-tailed deck with the corners cut on an angle for trailer (turning) clearance,
but the round shape of the rest of the truck was begging for something roundish as well :headscrat

i had a wrecked Airstream trailer laying around (another abandoned project :eek:)
so i used its vertical aluminum body "bows" as horizontal bed sides
and recycle its lightweight steel C-channel frame to build the underconstruction

DSC_1776.JPG


the large black coated aluminum extrusions are recycled from a Peterbilt sleeper
and the tail compartment door frame is a left over window frame from the dismantled Spartan trailer
the tie-downs are some sort of military surplus off of e-bay
i backed them with .125" 6061 T6 aluminum pieces

DSC_1808.JPG


at the rounded sleeper corner i could not just stop with a square deck end :headscrat
so i made this "double back" corner to match the curve (but with a decent gab to allow for air ride movement)

DSC_1814.JPG


again i used 3M UHMW tape to avoid electrolysis between the dis-similar metals

DSC_1810.JPG


eventually the sides will get skinned in Alclad
and the deck will get a web of additional small c-channels to provide support for the deck wood
 
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Kuzineddie

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
5
I love looking at these types of builds. Truly talented craftsman and fabricator! Can't wait to see tire/wheel combo under this rig. A lot of thinking on this project!
 
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RoosterBooster

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
thank you for the compliments ;)

with the bed roughly build i went back to skinning the sleeper
i have a bucket full of surplus Clecos
(with the move to composite the aircraft companies dont have much use for them anymore)
but after hanging half the panels i ran out of them :wtf:

DSC_1857.JPG


time to grab the rivet gun and start pulling rivets

Spartan used 1/8" solid aircraft rivets, but setting (or "bucking") them is definitely a two person job and i`m usually alone in the shop
so i settled for using 5/16 stem-pull rivets (aka pop rivets)
all aluminum rivets are usually very soft alloy so i decided to use higher grade ones that require a steel pull stem.
disadvantage is that the sheared steel stem remains in the rivet and could lead to possible rust stains & discoloring
but with the usually dry & fair weather around here i dont think i will experience any of that.

started at the passenger side front corner...

DSC_1878.JPG


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...and did most of the back wall...

DSC_1880.JPG


...as well as some areas of the driver side

DSC_1877.JPG


the rub rail and the skin panel over the fuel tank will need to be removable in case i ever have a major problem with the fuel tank
 
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GRN96WS6

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Dec 23, 2012
Messages
2,220
Location
SOMD
That's a lot of riveting, crikey! So you'll be pulling a travel trailer? I assumed you'd be pulling a toy or jeep since you had the pic of the old red International pulling one.
 

bullnerd

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Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Messages
5,690
Location
Jersey
Does anything go between the panels where they overlap? Sealant? Or do you seal the inside with seam sealer.

BTW..looks horrible, It'll never work!
 

Caddis295

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Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
139
Location
GA
Rooster,

This is absolutely awesome work my friend! I cannot wait for the next addition of progress!

Thanks!

Caddis295
 
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RoosterBooster

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Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
That's a lot of riveting, crikey! So you'll be pulling a travel trailer? I assumed you'd be pulling a toy or jeep since you had the pic of the old red International pulling one.

GRN
right now i do not have toys,
but the Truck is set up for hauling an ATV on the rear deck
and my "new" travel trailer will have a double side door and a "beefed up" frame to haul a second quad.
i also have a 100" x 26' deckover flatbed & a 16' utility trailer for hauling building materials and stuff.

You said you have buckets full of clecos.
Where did you get them from

Thanks

a bucked not buckets :p (i wish i bought more :sad:)
several years ago there was a guy on e-bay selling 10 lbs bags of used clecos... probably all gone by now :dunno:

Does anything go between the panels where they overlap? Sealant? Or do you seal the inside with seam sealer.

BTW..looks horrible, It'll never work!

Bull
yeah ... it looks like s@#t :dunno: but i started it so i have to keep going :p :lol:
i assembled the panels "dry" from the bottom up (so most overlaps are naturally shedding water)
but i also painted the complete inside and especially all the exposed rivets with a couple fat coats of elastomer (rubberized?) roof paint.
messy :eyecrazy: ... but absolutely water tight


Builder
thank you for the link ;) ... lots of cool trucks!
need to look around that forum when i have some spare time :thumbup:

Rooster,

This is absolutely awesome work my friend! I cannot wait for the next addition of progress!

Thanks!

Caddis295

Caddis
thank you :beer:


now that i had Clecos to work with again i continued with the upper panels,
skinned the bed sides and started with the lower skirting and compartments
decided to go with diamondplate on all the new lower parts...

DSC_1921.JPG


DSC_1902.JPG


the DP is too "new" and shiny right now, but it will age quickly.
all the "old" aluminum will eventually get a polish to almost mirror shine when everything is finished.

here is a side shot (oww, do i hate them ugly small 19.5 er wheels & tires :wtf:);

DSC_1953.JPG


and her it is with the Spartanette trailer (also a work in progress ...);

DSC_1955.JPG


and a couple more detail shots;

DSC_1962.JPG


DSC_1960.JPG


i love that ID plate ...

DSC_1977.JPG


the Spartanette is like a teardrop trailer on drugs :eyecrazy: ...
the body is 28 feet long and 96" wide (and a lot roomier then my current 26' and 88" wide Streamline)
 
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MP&C

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,401
Location
Leonardtown, MD
Awesome build, a major erector set for sure. Looks like you can never have enough clecos with a job like that! :willy_nil
 
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RoosterBooster

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Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
I love the vertical stabilizer on the Spartan!

lol ... yeah, the wing almost deserves a build thread of its own ...
it was a lot of work :p

DSC_1997.JPG


it is an actual "air foil" shape

DSC_1991.JPG
DSC_1992.JPG

i love airplanes (especially WWII vintage) and like the look of the wing,
but its main purpose is to raise the black tank vent as high as possible :p

here are a couple shots from the construction;

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DSC_8927.JPG


i added the tank vent pipe as well as a conduit to run wiring for some LED clearance/anti collision lights up there later

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total weight with pipes is only 8 lbs ... :thumbup:

its fastened with a bottom plate and tied into one of the roof spars ...

DSC_8942.JPG


not air worthy , but it should hold up to a strong cross-wind :lol:

now that i drifted off to the trailer i may also add a couple more pics;

the trailer had extensive damage next to the front entry door...
so i cut out that area, framed the larger opening and used the rear entry door (that i dint need) to build a "french" double door

DSC_9856.JPG
DSC_9863.JPG


DSC_9866.JPG


as i mentioned earlier, i re-enforced the frame/floor in that area so that a ATV can be driven straight into it ;)

i plan on decorating the trailer in a "Pacific war & airplane" theme;
probably bamboo stick mats on the ceiling, woven palm leaf mats on the walls
and woven coco fiber carpet (kinda "Tiki bar" style)
with lots of framed WWII airplane pics and stuff hanging on the walls

a friend of me has a neighbor who was actually flying a B-25 J Mitchell in the pacific war
and has a fantastic collection of pictures :cool:
this is his Mitchell "Darlin`" with his crew;

darlin.jpg


and obviously i just have to add a nose art to the trailer
maybe the "Darlin`" to honor him ?!? ....
 
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slickgt1

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Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
1,674
Wow, holy **** this is an awesome thread. It is mind boggling how much space everyone has to be able to undertake all of these ginormous projects. Serious skill there RB. Loving it.
 

-Brent-

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Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
4,709
Location
Utah
Rooster, I am a HUGE fan of this project. I first saw it over on the PBB. Anyhow, I stole a pic and posted it on IG. I was sure to mention the specifics and gave credit.

I hope you don't mind (I'm asking for forgiveness rather than permission :D), I've got a bunch of buddies that are really interested in this type of thing but not on GJ or PBB.

Keep up the good work.

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RoosterBooster

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
... Did you ever settle on whether you were going to keep the IDI?

Papastruck
i definitely miss the huge torque of the big Cummins N14 i had in the Pete :rocker: ...
or even just the low rpm grunt of the DT466 i had in the red IH,
but the IDI is there and gets the job done, so i`m keeping it for now
the bigger tires that i just installed make it a lot easier to live with the IDI
(dropped the rpm/noise drastically)

i`m actually adding a turbo and stacks in the next couple weeks ;)

Awesome! Cant wait to see this finished.
me too :lol: ... i have almost 10000 miles on the clock now, but she is still not finished :rolleyes:

Rooster, I am a HUGE fan of this project. I first saw it over on the PBB. Anyhow, I stole a pic and posted it on IG. I was sure to mention the specifics and gave credit.

I hope you don't mind (I'm asking for forgiveness rather than permission :D), I've got a bunch of buddies that are really interested in this type of thing but not on GJ or PBB.

Keep up the good work.

Brent
feel free to use whatever you want ;)... giving credit is even better :thumbup:

it seems i cant figure out what IG stands for ?!? :headscrat

talking about credit;

found the info on the B-25 pilot who was so generous to share his picture collection with my e-friend James (aka "87manche" on Pirate)
(for private use... so dont print and sell them on e-bay;));
his name is Capt. Ted Mahl. he served in the 75th Bombardment Squadron, assigned to the 42d Bombardment Group
here is Captain Mahl in his "Darlin`" ...

scan0006.jpg


... and showing off some battle damage

scan0013.jpg


them boys definitely had balls of steel :thumbup:
 
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RoosterBooster

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Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
225
Location
Vegas (winter) ...somewhere in the Utah mountains
ok, back to the <T>;

finished the front and added upper stack brackets
they will be hanged with rubber mounts to isolate the vibration from the sleeper

DSC_2070.JPG


and installed a Pete sleeper vent into the roof right over the toilette

DSC_2082.JPG


a roof mounted RV AC would look horrible on this truck
so i added a perforated panel to the rear (it will get a drain pan behind it later)
i plan to hide a window AC behind it (with some extra ducting and an additional radiator fan to channel the hot airflow out the back)

one of my hairy kids showed up to inspect my work :p...

DSC_2130.JPG


and definitely liked the corner windows :thumbup:

with the rough bodywork finished for now i moved to the inside
as i posted already i painted rubberized roof coating (snow roof brand) over every rivet and skin seam to weatherproof the sleeper
(or should i say "smeared" the paint ... i guess i`m not much of a painter :eek: )

DSC_2115.JPG


and started filling the voids with rigid foam insulation

DSC_2089.JPG


i added inside skin on key locations as well as a aluminum extrusion for the overhead luggage boards/cabinets
they greatly add to the wall strength

DSC_2101.JPG


the head board over the passage will be angled (i needed the extra space for bracing this high stress area into the roof)

DSC_2113.JPG


the black voids are for speakers and the center will be wired for a possible flatscreen monitor
(however, i do not watch TV, so i guess its for eventual re-sell value ;))
 
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