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Project Kenworth

randydupree

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Jun 3, 2006
Messages
235
Location
archer fl
OK,i misunderstood,he needs the frame.
For a KW that had an 8 bag setup,frame from the cab back.
His frame is a doubled frame and it has lots of rust.
Any help?
 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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4,454
Location
youngstown, ohio
this project has been on hold for quite sometime. For some reason the local weld shops have not wanted to tackle the sleeper job I had. SO, I just got the call finally today that the sleeper has been repaired and that some changes to the front have been started. We will finish the front once the cab opening is changed and we know all the proper measurements for the sleeper opening.

Some of the last things done were to the front end. We needed to drop the front to match the rear which was only about 1.5-1.75 inches to level the truck. Well, we went a little further, we ended up starting like this...
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I removed the front springs, had them dearched, 1.75 inches of arch taken out of each leaf then reinstalled. Since dearching is not an exact science we had to put 1 1/2" spacer back under the drivers side spring. I did some heavy research and with the help of a great spring shop in Pennsylvania I was able to work with the owner and locate a shorter rear spring hanger. For those that may not know, whatever the difference between the old and new spring hangers you will gain or loose roughly half that in a wheel well. Or new hanger was 3" shorter and we picked up roughly 1.5 in the wheel well plus about 2 in the springs and another 1" in the spacers under the springs.

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This was before the dearch, these are low mileage springs made by Triangle!! top quality springs and we went ahead and altered them :bounce:.

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The current wheel well!!

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This is after all the parts changed and springs reinstalled, this does not leave much room for bounce on the highway....We got that covered, the owner is sending me an air ride kit for the front end, should add a few inches of lift and get it up to a safe ride height without hurting anything.

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hopefully we will be pushing forward on the sleeper very soon, its been at the weld shop for a few months for only a few hours worth of work. unfortunately I cannot weld aluminum yet, but its something I'm looking to get into very soon. I hate being dependant on other people and shops.
 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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4,454
Location
youngstown, ohio
Looks like were going to be finishing this up next week. I have everything here almost for the sleeper install. There is some finishing touches that need to be done as far as welding but I will post pics.

I had the local weld shop repair a rear corner to the sleeper. It was damaged before we got the sleeper and needed repaired. Since the company is out of business that built these, we had to use a second sleeper as a donor project for parts. The corners are welded, bolted and screwed into place, the roof and door frames have to be removed to install a new corner and since we didn't have a corner available we had to do a section. We cut out of the donor sleeper what we needed and had the local weld shop tig weld the section in. I picked up the new rear skin and the new front skin last week while passing through Indiana. The rear skin will be a simple install and rivet. We have to figure out what we can use for insulation and we will be golden. The rear skin should installed next week, the bunk that's on the truck will be removed this weekend and we will proceed to install the new openings in the cab and sleeper. Lots of work ahead of us!!!
 

Nursepeter1973

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Joined
Oct 26, 2013
Messages
153
Location
Western Australia
I'm not a trucker and never will be but I can certainly appreciate and envy the quality of work that you put into your builds. I have sat many a time in awe of the work you manage by yourself.
 

sjkonk

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
18
Location
Lansing MI
Nice work! I used to work for a company that built firetrucks, so some of this stuff looks familar. We always used Reyco-Granning suspension though.
 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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youngstown, ohio
Well, fighting the frigged cold the job has to be done. So I was able to get started on Saturday after arriving home Friday and spending my afternoon chasing parts and other things I was going to need.

First thing was to finish the back of the frame. The owner is going to box in the back of the frame and put a recessed box in the back to hide his glad hand hookups and his trailer cable hookups. So when I tapers the frame I made it a shorter taper then normal. Most trucks on the road have a gradual 12-15" taper, this truck only has a 10" and a little sharper then normal.



Had a few issues getting the frame right when it bent but with a little persuasion from a hammer we got it in place. Lots of heat and a big crescent pushing down and it bent right over into place!!



All welded up. I still had to cut the frame straight in the back, once you bend the flange over it ends up shorter then the rest of the frame. Some people leave this I personally think it looks ******. I went ahead and straightened that out.



This is a finished product minus a little paint. I went ahead and drilled holes in the back of the frame for a set of light bars. The owner is not sure what he is doing for a custom bar setup so we are just putting the old lightbars on for now. Those will be finished up the end of the week once the sleeper is done. Also, notice that the frame rails are cut straight, those are all finished as well. I didn't have a pic with some paint on it, but you can just imagine haha.

 
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thejudges69

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youngstown, ohio
The major step is the sleeper. It HAS to be finished this week before I head back out. We still have some welding to do on it but that cant be finished til I get the opening done in the cab which will be today.

I got the sleeper removed Saturday night. These sleepers are fairly easy to remove, kenworth uses studs for mounts so its just a matter of taking off 4 nuts, removing the water and air lines and off she comes. This was a very smooth transaction, now if the new bunk goes on as easy as this one came off we will be set!!!



I am changing the back of the cab and the front of the sleeper. I am using a factory Peterbilt sleeper ring for both pieces. The object is to open up the back of the cab so the owner will have more leg room. The Kenworth trucks were not built for tall people. Check out the difference in the openings I'm adding. This is the section that we cut out to fit the new opening.



I use the new opening for the pattern for the cut out. This was fairly easy except not the new opening has tar on it from dynamat that was added to the cab. That stuff is a huge pain in the rear!!



Here we go, all fit and drilled, I had the opening held in with Clecos. I ran out of prep discs and couldn't find my flap wheel to do some fine tuning on the panels. Its a difficult task to cut it straight so the final product has to be fine tuned to get everything straight and nice looking. You won't be able to see this once the bunk is on but I still want it to look nice.

 

9c1nova

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Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Messages
50
Wanted to convey my compliments on the great work you do!!:thumbup:
Do you have to build any hidden framework around the cab opening to maintain the structural integrity? I see a lot of local " truck drivers " who remove the sleepers and either screw or rivet a large piece of thin plexiglass to fill the space. Sure isn't safe!:shocking:

Bruce
 
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thejudges69

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youngstown, ohio
Wanted to convey my compliments on the great work you do!!:thumbup:
Do you have to build any hidden framework around the cab opening to maintain the structural integrity? I see a lot of local " truck drivers " who remove the sleepers and either screw or rivet a large piece of thin plexiglass to fill the space. Sure isn't safe!:shocking:

Bruce

Bruce, the frame work comes in the new sleeper boot ring. We had to cut a vertical support brace out of each side and trim the roof braces a little to make the new ring fit. honestly the ring is very stout that we put in. Also, this cab is solid mounted, if it was on air then a lot of work would have had to be done for support and rigidity. The sleeper is also mounted solid so in all reality there really isn't much strain on the opening.

Also, thanks everyone for the compliments. I'm hard on myself so in my eyes all this work could be better, but that's just me I guess.
 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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youngstown, ohio
Got the opening all riveted in. used a windo weld sealer from 3M for the seam. I used this stuff on my own truck and it has been fantastic. Working fast and about 75 rivets later and the opening is good to go.



This is the main reason. The owner is tall and kenworth does not have a lot of leg room. Now the seats will recline into the sleeper and slide all the way back. I stand 6'1 and have more then enough leg room. The owner should be very happy with this now.



The owner has limited time to get this truck on the road when he gets it back. I figured I would help him out. He mentioned to me that it needed a new alternator bracket and belts. He stated that it had tendancy to throw the belts. I found the bracket had a little bit of play for the alternator, I didn't think it was enough to throw the belts but I changed it anyways. I was able to find a like new bracket at the junk yard for a fraction of new and got him 2 new belts. Installed all them, and I guess only time will tell if its going to throw them.



After some rough measuring, today is going to be a good day. I'm going to set the sleeper on for a trial fit, I think that the factory mounts are going to be in good position for the new sleeper. I may have to move them back a little and up or down a little. That is what the trial run is for though.
 
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thejudges69

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youngstown, ohio
Yesterday was a trial run, I didn't get done what I wanted to but still made some progress. I had to test fit the sleeper and get some measurements for mounting. I'm wanting to use the original kenworth mounts on the sleeper for the best look and effect. I know most won't even notice but I think they will look better. So I had to measure to move the mounts and also to determine where bottom of the opening has to be in the bunk. everything went fairly smooth, lifting that bunk on and off is some what nerve racking. One slip and crash and its junk. Here is a basic test fit and what the finished product will look like.



I got the sleeper inside now with the front all cut out. I have to visit the weld shop today and get cross braces added and then the front panel goes in. once the front is all welded the panel will go in and then cut for the opening. Since the design of the sleeper is kind of odd we are mounting the opening to the outside of the sleeper instead of under the panel. Either way it will work out in the end!!

 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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youngstown, ohio
Its been a few days since my last update. Figured I would get this on track. I had the local weld shop to stitch in all my cross braces. I think that it needs more bracing in the front but that's going to be added later when the interior is out. I got the opening in and the front all complete and its ready for the fit on the truck.

 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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Location
youngstown, ohio
Well, I didn't get a chance to take pics, we had a mishap with the rear panel. It wasn't our fault but the light holes in the original panel were not in the right place and it was a disaster all most. The owner of the truck left jersey Friday evening drove straight through to Indiana, picked up the new rear panel and brought it to me in ohio. Him and a friend of ours assisted in the completion.

We got the new rear panel and got it fit and installed. Thankfully we had decent weather to finish this project. I had the factory mounts setup when they got here so there was minimal work to be completed. These custom sleepers use custom mounts, I made the decision to use OEM Kenworth mounts so there is nothing special about the bushings or servicing them. The bunk was set on and slid into place by hand and fit exactly like it was supposed to.

 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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youngstown, ohio
Yesterday we got the bunk all set on and everything ready to go except the light panels under the bunk. We ran out of daylight and had to finish them up today. The truck finally hit the road around 4:00 today headed for jersey.

Final results, 96 Kenworth, with a 2002 freightliner air liner suspension under it. Added 26 inches to the frame for a total of 300" wheelbase. Changed the cab and bunk opening to accommodate the Peterbilt unibilt sleeper boot opening installed a 66" double eagle sleeper new front panel and 1 new sleeper corner. and a new rear pleated back panel. Comment I'm looking forward to hearing, questions I'll answer what I can.

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Finally hitting the road with the owner!!!!!!

IMG_20140310_162843_233_zps4ffpuzbo.jpg
 
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JTH

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May 4, 2012
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167
Location
MO Ozarks
looks great! Your work is outstanding. Must feel really good to see it on the road. JT
 

Lippyp

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Jun 26, 2006
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6,720
Location
Shropshire, UK
Damn you guys have cool trucks over there. In the UK you rarely see a truck with a hood, they're pretty much all cabovers, mainly due to restrictions on overall length, you'd never see a tractor unit with such a long wheelbase either for the same reasons. You get the odd one but they're usually for heavy haulage or some special purpose.
 

surpdlr

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2012
Messages
13
Location
WRIGHTSVILLE, PA
Damn you guys have cool trucks over there. In the UK you rarely see a truck with a hood, they're pretty much all cabovers, mainly due to restrictions on overall length, you'd never see a tractor unit with such a long wheelbase either for the same reasons. You get the odd one but they're usually for heavy haulage or some special purpose.

Considering that +-10 years ago I watched a HUMV struggle coming down the high street (Main St. for the Yanks) in Royal Tunbridge Wells (+- 45 minutes of traffic drama), and create quite the traffic mess, I have always thought there would be almost NO way to drive a regular American style truck in the UK. At least not the southern part of the UK!!!

On the other hand, you guys have some really cool Cabover trucks!! I guess the grass is always greener on the other side.....

Jeff
 

Lippyp

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Jun 26, 2006
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Shropshire, UK
Considering that +-10 years ago I watched a HUMV struggle coming down the high street (Main St. for the Yanks) in Royal Tunbridge Wells (+- 45 minutes of traffic drama), and create quite the traffic mess, I have always thought there would be almost NO way to drive a regular American style truck in the UK. At least not the southern part of the UK!!!

On the other hand, you guys have some really cool Cabover trucks!! I guess the grass is always greener on the other side.....

Jeff

Yeah I hear what you're saying. There are some US trucks over here, some enthusiasts import them and the odd haulage company uses them as advertising at shows etc but most probably rarely pull a trailer. My 67 Chevy C10 has caused me a few issues in terms of size, I can most definitely confirm that UK McDonalds drive-thrus are NOT built to the same plans as US ones as I very nearly got my truck wedged in one!
 

surpdlr

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Aug 2, 2012
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Location
WRIGHTSVILLE, PA
Yeah I hear what you're saying. There are some US trucks over here, some enthusiasts import them and the odd haulage company uses them as advertising at shows etc but most probably rarely pull a trailer. My 67 Chevy C10 has caused me a few issues in terms of size, I can most definitely confirm that UK McDonalds drive-thrus are NOT built to the same plans as US ones as I very nearly got my truck wedged in one!

I guess taking a M3A1 half track through the Mickey D's drive through in the UK would be a fail also then.... They fit here just fine, been there done that and turned a few heads with mine..

As an owner of antique motorcycles, I think the same thing that drove the difference between US and UK motorcycles back in the 20's and 30's applies to a lot more than people realize. In the UK everything is close together for the most part, hence the smaller / tighter motorcycle design. In the USA, things are spread out, longer distances, hence the design of the bigger "cruiser" type motorcycle. It would seem to apply to cars and trucks also. (along with buildings and roads).

These difference's are what makes travel interesting!

Jeff
 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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youngstown, ohio
Thanks for the praise everyone. Yes it will be painted in the next couple weeks. Visor and exhaust completed. I'll post some pics when its right for flight!!!
 
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thejudges69

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youngstown, ohio
Lippy, I've sent 4 trucks to Finland for my friend. None of them work but we run into length issues once in a while if the trucks to long to be shipped over there. My buddy said he don't care he just outlaw trucks with them to shows.
 

850xpeps

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Wondering if you had the pictures of doing the Peterbuilt sleeper ring install?
 
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thejudges69

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youngstown, ohio
Wondering if you had the pictures of doing the Peterbuilt sleeper ring install?
I do, drop me an email and I can send them. Photobucket tucked everything up on the internet. They are now saved on a backup hard drive. I'll pm you my email.


Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

850xpeps

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I do, drop me an email and I can send them. Photobucket tucked everything up on the internet. They are now saved on a backup hard drive. I'll pm you my email.


Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk



Ya it would have been nice to see all the steps for the whole but I seen the photos are mia
 
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thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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youngstown, ohio
It's amazing to follow your journey with the Kenworth W900L project. The way you're tackling each challenge, from the frame stretch to the sleeper restoration, is impressive. It's not every day you see such dedication and skill, especially with the custom adjustments and the attention to detail you're applying.

The decision to go for the freightliner air liner suspension and the detailed process of fitting the new rails is a testament to your expertise. It's clear you're not just building a truck; you're creating a masterpiece that's tailored to your friend's needs. I'm particularly interested in how you've handled the sleeper's structural issues and how you're planning to fit the unibilt bunk opening. It's these custom touches that turn a good build into a great one.

Also, it's great that you're keeping the community updated with pictures and detailed descriptions. It’s almost like being right there in the shop with you. Projects like these are not just about the end result, but the journey and the learning that happens along the way. I'm eagerly looking forward to your next update. Keep up the fantastic work, and remember, trucking ain't easy, but it sure is rewarding when you see your project come together!

Looking forward to seeing the finished product and hearing more about your adventures in truck building!
Thank you. This trucks been sitting in storage for a few years. My buddy is a truck salesman in Pennsylvania and hasn’t driven in 4-5 years. Thank you for all the words of encouragement though. I haven’t done another one since. I’m not totally happy with that completed job. But, maybe I should tackle another. I’m always looking for ways to get out of the truck.
 

Too Many Projects

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Feb 4, 2024
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Thank you. This trucks been sitting in storage for a few years. My buddy is a truck salesman in Pennsylvania and hasn’t driven in 4-5 years. Thank you for all the words of encouragement though. I haven’t done another one since. I’m not totally happy with that completed job. But, maybe I should tackle another. I’m always looking for ways to get out of the truck.
Sorry to read all your work is just sitting now. At a flat rate, I'm thinking you got about $5/hour for all that.
If the work held up and the truck worked well, no reason to be unhappy with what you did. I'm sure you feel it could have been better, but it didn't need to be perfect... ;)
I had a '92 Pete 379 for 19 years and a '96 T600 for 5 years. The KW had the 8 bag and rode OK, but with the 74" standup bunk in a side wind, I sat on a slope all day. Part of the problem with the ride was all 8 bags were inflated from 1 leveler. I split the feed and put in another leveler to separate the sides and it softened up noticeably. When I needed to replace the front spring pins/bushings, I went to the Horton roller set up and that helped the front suspension ride better too.
 
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