TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
If that is the case will need to change my guess from 1450 to 1760Is that with or without me sitting in it?
Puget Dude’s creations and fabrications (Random project thread.)
- Thread starter PugetDude
- Start date
Totally agree! But, if you were in my college drafting class, we need a third image too!Sometimes it's fun to go old school. Designing the carb adapter. Something satisfying about sitting down with graph paper, a pencil, and a compass.
Last edited:
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sometimes it's fun to go old school. Designing the carb adapter. Something satisfying about sitting down with graph paper, a pencil, and a compass.
Nice Scott. Old school way is what I use as well.
readhead
Well-known member
That is known as GAD. Graph aided design. Very popular even today.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
but it's the wrong color....
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Same here. If I’m feeling fancy I’ll use clear acetate sheet as well.I use it along with my CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) for most projects.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Graph cardboard.... run with it.
Making progress...got the carb adapter machined, surface finish wasn't that great so I lapped the mounting surface on my surface plate with a piece of 180 grit wet and dry sandpaper and WD40. 
It fits the Goldwing engine and the new carburetor perfectly.
Happy with the test fit, will start putting everything back together today.
This carburetor is a knockoff of a Weber 38/38 Two barrel. I chose it because the 38mm barrels are the exact same diameter as what's on the original Goldwing carb.
This one comes from the highly esteemed Chinese carburetor manufacturer "Thundermingo"
and comes with both manual and electric choke options, @$70 delivered via brown truck from Amazon.
I have 30 days to see if it's going to work, if not I can always send it back. This is more of a proof of concept exercise, I may end up with a genuine Weber($400+, made in Spain) or something different altogether.
It fits the Goldwing engine and the new carburetor perfectly.
Happy with the test fit, will start putting everything back together today.
This carburetor is a knockoff of a Weber 38/38 Two barrel. I chose it because the 38mm barrels are the exact same diameter as what's on the original Goldwing carb.
This one comes from the highly esteemed Chinese carburetor manufacturer "Thundermingo"
and comes with both manual and electric choke options, @$70 delivered via brown truck from Amazon.
I have 30 days to see if it's going to work, if not I can always send it back. This is more of a proof of concept exercise, I may end up with a genuine Weber($400+, made in Spain) or something different altogether.
Last edited:
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scott, I fell in love with Weber carburetors when I had a pair of Weber 40 Dual DCNF carburetors on my Fiat X1/9. The previous owner of the setup put the wrong jets and venturis in them and the engine bogged, coughed and sputtered (and belched black smoke like it was a diesel). Using the Haynes Weber manual I figured out the right setup and it was night and day. The Webers are the most customizable carburetors I've ever owned.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
readhead
Well-known member
When I had my Jeep shop many years ago I installed a lot of Weber conversions on AMC straight six’s. They work in a broad range without having to change jets. Around here it is easy to gain six thousand feet in altitude and the Webers didn’t seem to care.
I hope that's the case here. Probably get it to the point that I can find out sometime tomorrow.
Got the carb adapter mounted, since it's on rubber isolators I elected to add a simple brace to help stabilize the new carburetor. The Goldwing carb and air box is tightly surrounded on the bike, in this case it's open on top of the motor. Used a piece of light gauge 1/4 ID" tubing, slid a piece of 1/4 all thread inside it so I had something more substantial to weld the mounting tab to. Welded a 1/4"-28 UNF stud on the other end for a Heim joint to give me some adjustability. Going to need a longer stud on the adapter and a spacer for the Heim, but it looks like it's going to work.
Next order of business was to get the exhaust back on, and then get the motor back in. It's really easy to pull and install the motor with the gantry crane and an engine leveler. Only takes a few minutes.
Still have to put the mufflers back on, temp up the wiring (again) and get the radiators on so I can try to fire it back up with the new carburetor.Fingers crossed for tomorrow....
Last edited:
readhead
Well-known member
Elegant solution with the brace. Nice gas tank.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
You probably already know this, but the gas tank has to be vented. I have a vented cap on my generator that has an on off switch, the generator won’t run long if you forget to turn the cap on.
readhead
Well-known member
The cap is vented.
Thanks for the heads up, Roger. The cap is vented, the tank was constructed by an old-time hot rod builder just for engine start-up testing. The threads on the cap have a vertical slot cut across them, just enough to vent the tank when the cap is loosened. Pretty ingenious.
@readhead gave me the tank when I visited him in Durango recently.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I figured you knew, just wanted to mention it just in case.
What are you going to run for a permanent tank? A small fuel cell would probably be all you need for that motor.
Finished welding up another rack for the ubiquitous yellow and black HF storage cases. Had a well- meaning friend give me a few lengths of "salvaged household ferrous boudoir nocturnal furnishing support frames" (aka bed angle) a while back and I decided this was a good way to get them out of my way and put them to work.
As everyone probably knows bed frame angle is harder than a honeymoon pr*ck,
almost impossible to drill, and somewhat wonky to weld.
I used my old tired DeWalt chop saw to cut everything to length, and knocked off the rivets with an angle grinder. Ended up with just enough of the angle to build the stand. I did do something different on this one, made the top two rows to fit the half-width cases. Top and bottom front stringers are 1/8 x 1-1/2" flat bar; couldn't use angle without changing the case spacing. Since the bed frames were different thicknesses I had to use opposing pairs to maintain spacing- used 5" for the thicker cases and 2-1/2" for the thinner ones. And, yes @readhead I did use a piece of diamond plate to double up underneath the bottom front stringer- just for you.
Had a set of 3" locking swivel casters from Amazon Warehouse Deals, so I plug welded them on.
Back is a piece of expanded metal, I had lying around, I got tired of moving it every time I was pawing through my steel inventory- and it should prevent the rack from racking when I load it up with hardware...hmmm, that sounds like an oxymoron.
Finished weldment got two coats of gloss black spray paint because I already had it.
Still need to glue up a 2x wooden top for it (which will bring it up to my bench height) but it's workable for now.
As everyone probably knows bed frame angle is harder than a honeymoon pr*ck,
almost impossible to drill, and somewhat wonky to weld.
I used my old tired DeWalt chop saw to cut everything to length, and knocked off the rivets with an angle grinder. Ended up with just enough of the angle to build the stand. I did do something different on this one, made the top two rows to fit the half-width cases. Top and bottom front stringers are 1/8 x 1-1/2" flat bar; couldn't use angle without changing the case spacing. Since the bed frames were different thicknesses I had to use opposing pairs to maintain spacing- used 5" for the thicker cases and 2-1/2" for the thinner ones. And, yes @readhead I did use a piece of diamond plate to double up underneath the bottom front stringer- just for you.
Had a set of 3" locking swivel casters from Amazon Warehouse Deals, so I plug welded them on.
Back is a piece of expanded metal, I had lying around, I got tired of moving it every time I was pawing through my steel inventory- and it should prevent the rack from racking when I load it up with hardware...hmmm, that sounds like an oxymoron.
Finished weldment got two coats of gloss black spray paint because I already had it.
Still need to glue up a 2x wooden top for it (which will bring it up to my bench height) but it's workable for now.
Last edited:
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scott, that's brilliant. I don't have any of those cases but your storage rack flipped a sleeping brain cell (or three). I need to cut up a length of rain gutter downspout I saved back in February. I couldn't remember why I shouldn't throw it away until I saw your post. @shopnut used pieces of PVC downspout to organize his metal collection. My downspout is aluminum but it should serve the same purpose.
www.garagejournal.com
The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
great work as always and you sure got lucky at the gas station that is for sure!
www.garagejournal.com
Temporary exhaust ready to go back on. Offset is for the driver's side to clear the shift linkage.
After seeing how easy this is going to be I may end up fabbing the finished exhaust myself- was initially planning on taking it to a muffler shop. (But I will use mandrel bends instead of miter cuts.)
After seeing how easy this is going to be I may end up fabbing the finished exhaust myself- was initially planning on taking it to a muffler shop. (But I will use mandrel bends instead of miter cuts.)
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,024
How does that saying go: "Temporary unless it works?"
Update:
It runs!
Got everything temped up, crossed my fingers, turned the key... It turned over twice and fired right up!
Idles great, accelerates smoothly, no stumbling or hesitation,
BUT... Has a nasty exhaust backfire if I let off the accelerator abruptly. I can bring it down slowly and reduce the frequency and severity of the backfire but not eliminate it completely. Adjusted the idle jets on the carb, checked for exhaust leaks, plugs, wires, etc. I do have the stock vacuum line going to the ECU. Even tried temping up the Honda airbox to see if that makes a difference. Not really.
Does not backfire through the carb, just the exhaust.
Have a Weber jet kit on order, will try that next. Currently jetted at 45, might just be too lean. let's hope it's that simple.
Ideas, thoughts suggestions, criticisms, complaints, snarky comments welcome.
(Weber 38 carb on a Honda 1500 Goldwing Engine in a 32 Ford Roadster isn't something that yields much help on a Google search.)
It runs!
Got everything temped up, crossed my fingers, turned the key... It turned over twice and fired right up!
Idles great, accelerates smoothly, no stumbling or hesitation,
BUT... Has a nasty exhaust backfire if I let off the accelerator abruptly. I can bring it down slowly and reduce the frequency and severity of the backfire but not eliminate it completely. Adjusted the idle jets on the carb, checked for exhaust leaks, plugs, wires, etc. I do have the stock vacuum line going to the ECU. Even tried temping up the Honda airbox to see if that makes a difference. Not really.
Does not backfire through the carb, just the exhaust.
Have a Weber jet kit on order, will try that next. Currently jetted at 45, might just be too lean. let's hope it's that simple.
Ideas, thoughts suggestions, criticisms, complaints, snarky comments welcome.
(Weber 38 carb on a Honda 1500 Goldwing Engine in a 32 Ford Roadster isn't something that yields much help on a Google search.)
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scott, popping from the exhaust usually happens when atomized fuel reaches a place in the hot exhaust system where it can mix with air and explode. When the throttle plate closes, vacuum goes way up and a bit more fuel gets sucked out of the carburetor. I believe a long exhaust pipe and muffler can cool things down enough to minimize that popping.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Or it’s lean.lol
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Leave it, the local white hairs will love it!
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I had that issue with the Cobra when I would back off the throttle. It wound up being a blown exhaust gasket. Replaced them with an all metal compressible gasket and the issue went away.
BTW, great job getting it running!
BTW, great job getting it running!
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
I know someone who owes ya a favor that could do exhaust..Temporary exhaust ready to go back on. Offset is for the driver's side to clear the shift linkage.
After seeing how easy this is going to be I may end up fabbing the finished exhaust myself- was initially planning on taking it to a muffler shop. (But I will use mandrel bends instead of miter cuts.)
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
What about the old bald guys? They would most likely be more tolerant
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Who, the old bald guy? Inside lift works great. 4 post better anyway.
Outside lift will be fixed tomorrow or Friday both cylinders. 32nd Anniversary tomorrow wife says fix it.
I think she wants the GTD.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Yeah. Kinda pricey but seal on other cyl visibly coming apart too.
Don’t realize how valuable a tool is like hoist until it no longer works.
AC, Air Compressor, garage door opener, hoist and transmission jack all went south in couple weeks time. Robert always says he would rather be lucky
than good. Good thing for bad luck or wouldn’t have any luck at all!
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Hmmmmmmmm