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Quality 36" Axe Recommendation for under $50

BrandoJames

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Anyone have a recommendation for a quality 36" axe. This will be used for small trees and brush where a chainsaw would be overkill. My current axe has a loose handle, rusted head and is about to give up the ghost. Something under $50 would be great, thanks.
 
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dr_clyde

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I would just clean up your current head and fit a new handle.

If the head is bad quality, then I could see replacing.

For what you’re doing, a Collins Axe from any hardware store would probably work fine.
 

Cooter Brown

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Anyone have a recommendation for a quality 36" axe. This will be used for small trees and brush where a chainsaw would be overkill. My current axe has a loose handle, rusted head and is about to give up the ghost. Something under $50 would be great, thanks.

If the old head is not worth cleaning, sharpening, and rehafting, look at the Council Tools 3.5 lb. Dayton pattern. Around $48, American made, excellent quality.

Council makes other patterns but that's a nice all around tool.
 

AmericanMechanic

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Having tried a few fiskars tools over the years, i agree with the general consensus that Fiskars is marketing hype on sub-standard, throw away tools. Plastic handles, silly designs (geared levers on the jaws?), oddly made tools. Kind of like a smart car early on... new, hip, trendy, but really impractical. Smart car was a go kart whereas new cars get the same fuel economy in a real sized car.

Any real axe with real USA steel and a real hickory handle will do great. At least a couple are mentioned above.
 

ChrisLS8

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Having tried a few fiskars tools over the years, i agree with the general consensus that Fiskars is marketing hype on sub-standard, throw away tools. Plastic handles, silly designs (geared levers on the jaws?), oddly made tools. Kind of like a smart car early on... new, hip, trendy, but really impractical. Smart car was a go kart whereas new cars get the same fuel economy in a real sized car.

Any real axe with real USA steel and a real hickory handle will do great. At least a couple are mentioned above.


I only have a camp hatchet however I'm using that to disagree on my end. It's been better in basically every way. Cutting, vibrations, weight, balance to the old ones my dad gave me
 

Bogie1632

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Having tried a few fiskars tools over the years, i agree with the general consensus that Fiskars is marketing hype on sub-standard, throw away tools. Plastic handles, silly designs (geared levers on the jaws?), oddly made tools. Kind of like a smart car early on... new, hip, trendy, but really impractical. Smart car was a go kart whereas new cars get the same fuel economy in a real sized car.

Any real axe with real USA steel and a real hickory handle will do great. At least a couple are mentioned above.

Not sure I agree with the Fiskars substandard throw away part. The Fins do make some good products. My Fiskars axe has served me well for over 8 years, along with many of their other garnering tools. Is it the best axe available at its cost? No. But it's my go to for around the yard clean ups. Do I have other axes? Yes. Inherited a few old US COO over the years that do just as well (or better if I'm splitting firewood by hand) but I still grab my Fiskars first.

V/R
Bogie
 

mike93lx

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Having tried a few fiskars tools over the years, i agree with the general consensus that Fiskars is marketing hype on sub-standard, throw away tools. Plastic handles, silly designs (geared levers on the jaws?), oddly made tools. Kind of like a smart car early on... new, hip, trendy, but really impractical. Smart car was a go kart whereas new cars get the same fuel economy in a real sized car.

Any real axe with real USA steel and a real hickory handle will do great. At least a couple are mentioned above.

LOL. Fiskars are durable, high quality, long lasting and strong. Plus a great value.
 

Parrothead

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Do you have a cordless sawzall? I use that for most "not worth firing up the chainsaw" jobs. Also use it for cutting out small stumps.

:thumbup: And if you don't feel like fitting a new wood handle glue this sucker in it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5XRBM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Count me in the cordless sawzall camp. I’ve got two axes and haven’t touched them since getting it. They even make dedicated pruning blades.

Unless you’re looking for a workout I’d retire the axe.
 

Lasu

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The Fiskars composite handle splitting axe is a really durable and well-designed head profile, stays tight.

Here is one that has been used for about 25v and 200 cubic meters of birch logs.
 

redwrench60

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Council Tool catalog number (SU35J36C) 3.5lb. Jersey pattern axe with 36” curved handle. These are great quality USA made axes for a decent price. Between $40-$50 most online retailers and stores. Don’t listen to the lazy asses who cant hit a lick without reaching for a power tool of some kind. Every man (or woman) should have an axe.
 

Zewnten

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I've used axes most of my life and I will take a Collins ax I can see in store even if it's meh before I ever buy another council ax. Two I ordered had horrible wood grain, the head was misaligned with the beam of the handle, the edges were horribly ground and poorly tempered. When I called to get them warrantied as defective manufacturing Council told me to buy the competition grade if I expected better.

To the OP I buy mostly used axes from flea markets/Craigslist. Make sure the handle isn't split or bent, then soak it in some oil (your choice, any is better than the nothing it's had), wire wheel the rusty patina and file the cutting edge back to shape, the make sure the wedge is set with keepers and your good to go. Or swing into HF or local hardware store pick up a fiberglass handle Collins/no name and have at it
 

toolmiser

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Around here they go for usually less than $5.00 at garage sales, if they can sell them. I've started to learn a little about them in case there is something valuable. Lot's of times the handles are useable.
 

mike93lx

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The OP already has an Axe that would be found at a flea market or garage sale. Seems pretty clear he wants a new one
 

lafester

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I grabbed a fiskers axe last year when one of my walmarts marked them down to $25.
It is a great axe, comfortable to swing and cuts easily.

They carry them every year so I am not sure why it was marked down, but I am not complaining.
 

ChevyEFI

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Fiskars has some low end small pruning shears with which you can't cut oversized branches without bending things. I can see how they got a bit of a rep on some of their items.

That said, if I saw a $25 composite handle axe of theirs at Wally, I'd try it.
 
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redwrench60

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I've used axes most of my life and I will take a Collins ax I can see in store even if it's meh before I ever buy another council ax. Two I ordered had horrible wood grain, the head was misaligned with the beam of the handle, the edges were horribly ground and poorly tempered. When I called to get them warrantied as defective manufacturing Council told me to buy the competition grade if I expected better.

To the OP I buy mostly used axes from flea markets/Craigslist. Make sure the handle isn't split or bent, then soak it in some oil (your choice, any is better than the nothing it's had), wire wheel the rusty patina and file the cutting edge back to shape, the make sure the wedge is set with keepers and your good to go. Or swing into HF or local hardware store pick up a fiberglass handle Collins/no name and have at it

That *****. The ones I’ve handled in farm stores and seen in use looked pretty good. Especially for the money.

I recently bought a 2.5 lb 28” Council boys axe for my son as his first axe. It was under $40 and has nice straight grained haft fitted nicely about 1/8” proud of the bit. Quality seems pretty good. All it needs is a drink of boiled linseed oil and then put to work.
 

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milwaukeephil

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Stihl makes some great forestry axes.

woodforestaxe.png


https://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/woodforestaxe/
 

jonshonda

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Imho there has to be a lot wrong with an axe head to make it unusable. I get that it might be easier to just go out and buy a new one, but it might be a lot more satisfying to clean up your current one, find a good quality haft to replace the old one. Watch some YouTube videos on the sharpening and hafting process, you will learn a lot.

I've got 4 axes, a splitting maul, splitting wedge, and two mails that I bought for really cheap and have put them back into use. I love using them because I took old high quality vintage stuff that was one it's way to the scrap pile, and gave it new life!
 

Spacey_G

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You didn't state whether you want a splitting axe or chopping axe, but it sounds like you want a chopping axe.

Fiskars is a good choice (the critics never seem to have legitimate criticisms except that they don't like the idea of anything other than American made steel on a hickory handle). However, their 36" axe is made for splitting, not chopping.
 

jives

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Fiskars has some low end small pruning shears with which you can't cut oversized branches without bending things. I can see how they got a bit of a rep on some of their items.

Okay, like most companies, Fiskars has a low budget line, but I will tell you that the levered/geared loppers I have is one of my best tools, period. I have cut hundreds of branches and roots and small stumps, mostly buckthorn, and it never flinches. Way exceeded cutting capacity and full body weight force on the handles. I would have no problem buying a Fiskars axe.
 

JohnM45

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Anyone have a recommendation for a quality 36" axe. This will be used for small trees and brush where a chainsaw would be overkill. My current axe has a loose handle, rusted head and is about to give up the ghost. Something under $50 would be great, thanks.

Loose handle and rusted head...so a new handle alone is probably $20. If its a quality piece of US steel, all you really need to do is take a maroon scotchbrite pad and some WD40 to get the rust off. Take your favorite ******* file and shape a new edge on there.

Hafting is not terribly difficult as long as the new handle has a wedge and similar shape for the eye...lots of Youtube out there to help.

Fix up the one you have - it'll be some quality garage time; you'll have a tool you will appreciate more every time you use it. Not only that, you'll learn a useful skill that will separate you from the majority of people out there that would rather be a part of a throw-away society.

Husqvarna brand axes are probably some of the best values going. Hand forged, high quality steel and hickory (replaceable handles).

:beer:
 
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BrandoJames

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You didn't state whether you want a splitting axe or chopping axe, but it sounds like you want a chopping axe.

I need a chopping axe--I live on a two acre lot that's heavily wooded. I'd like a 36" handle because that's what I'm used to. I just got a $5 coupon in the mail today from my local Ace Hardware.

Looks like they carry both Collins & Fiskar. They also have a few Eastwing, but those are shorter handles--like 26".
 

Outwest

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My choice of the several I have in single bit would be the Barco Kelly Perfect. 3.5# head, well finished, nice handle. $65 at Harry Epstein.
 
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Downwindtracker 2

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Before say 3 1/2 # and 36", longer and heavier takes both greater strength and skill. Can you put a cut on a tree then put your second swing on that same cut half way along again ?
 

M635_Guy

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Husqvarna brand axes are probably some of the best values going. Hand forged, high quality steel and hickory (replaceable handles).

:beer:

I'm going to restore my old axe, but probably pick up a Husqvarna camping ax/hatchet. Thanks!
 
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BrandoJames

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Before say 3 1/2 # and 36", longer and heavier takes both greater strength and skill. Can you put a cut on a tree then put your second swing on that same cut half way along again ?

Can I do what? Ok buddy, you asked for it--Monty Python's Lumberjack song!

 

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Ton ton

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I need a chopping axe--I live on a two acre lot that's heavily wooded. I'd like a 36" handle because that's what I'm used to. I just got a $5 coupon in the mail today from my local Ace Hardware.

Looks like they carry both Collins & Fiskar. They also have a few Eastwing, but those are shorter handles--like 26".
Thanks for clarifying
I'm a wood splitter dude so I can't help much with personal experience.
 

Downwindtracker 2

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For camping, hunting and trail work, I keep a 2 1/4# 24" "boy's axe" on the quad .A Sandvik, made by Wetterling I think.

Yes, the lumberjack's song.
 

Zewnten

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Had the long estwing ax when I was a teenager, horrible design. Head has no cheeks behind the edge so it sticks in all but the driest logs.

Also don't believe the hype about Gransfors, the edges will take an edge like a knife and chip like one too once you chop with it on a cold day or hit a knot.

The Husqvarna/Stihl axes are nice and even better for the money but they're more like a hatchet than a proper felling ax, I carry one for hiking and hunting.
 

JohnM45

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Had the long estwing ax when I was a teenager, horrible design. Head has no cheeks behind the edge so it sticks in all but the driest logs.

Also don't believe the hype about Gransfors, the edges will take an edge like a knife and chip like one too once you chop with it on a cold day or hit a knot.

The Husqvarna/Stihl axes are nice and even better for the money but they're more like a hatchet than a proper felling ax, I carry one for hiking and hunting.

I didn't know there really was "hype" with Gransfors, but I know my GB Small Forest axe and GB Splitting Maul have NEVER had a chipped or rolled edge with regular usage.

Price-wise, I certainly agree that Husqv and Stihl are better value...but I love my GB axes.

Also, anyone that wants a nice finish for their hickory handle would be pleased with an equal parts mix of beeswax, linseed oil and turpentine. Buy an empty paint can and mix them...store in a the can. mixes into a paste that's got the consistency of butter. Works into the wood very nicely, smells great and the beeswax gives a nice grip.

:beer:
 
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BrandoJames

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Here's a couple of pix of my old axe. She's probably 30 years old, bought at one of the big box stores. The second pic is zoomed on the faded label. It's hard to make out the brand, but it may be "Collins".

The handle was almost completely out of the head. I had to use my Blue Point dead blow to drive it back on before I could use it. I then put a wood screw into the top to secure it.
 

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