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Question on gluing pvc conduit

hondacivic247

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So my girlfriends dad was just here qnd told me that if you use pvc conduit and glue parts together that the glue needs to be visible on the outside of the parts to pass inspection. I did a small run in my garage with schedule 40 pvc for my welder hookup but didn't make it visible on the outside as in it smushs out
 
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hondacivic247

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It's in mt home garage. I came out the wall 7" below my panel box with a junction box then used some reducers glued together and a 90 elbow straight over to my receptacle. Maybe I'll just rub some glue on the outside of them to give it the look. Even tho there glued solid already.

I'm only concerned cause we're buying the house within the next 6 months from her parents and a inspector may come out if we're forced to go through a bank for a loan vs a private sale written up
 
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hondacivic247

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The pvc conduit holds 6g wire for the welder qnd the other metal conduit is a direct circuit to my quincy 325, well it runs to a disconnect box then motor starter
 
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hondacivic247

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faqups.jpg
 

gpflepsen

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I'd venture the thought the inspection isn't like an electrical Inspiration and won't have the level of detail to scrutinize the conduit glue joints. The inspection would probably be for grossly inadequate conditions like failed roof system, foundation, water damage, etc. The bank wants to verify the soundness of their investment.

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wyliesdiesels

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So my girlfriends dad was just here qnd told me that if you use pvc conduit and glue parts together that the glue needs to be visible on the outside of the parts to pass inspection. I did a small run in my garage with schedule 40 pvc for my welder hookup but didn't make it visible on the outside as in it smushs out

Thats not a code Ive ever been nailed on.

U should ask him to cite the code for u!
 

myredracer

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The NEC says to follow the glue manufacturers instructions. Here is a thread from the Mike Holt electrical forum on gluing: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=135940 I don't see anything where the code specifies that the glue must be visible. I'm an EE (Canadian) and have never heard of that here. Once you have all the conduit and fittings connected and attached with straps, etc.(above ground) it's not likely to come apart and gluing the sn*t out of a joint won't help much.

Glued joints, whether or not you can see the glue after assembly, is no guarantee that the joint won't leak anyway, esp. underground. I've seen some old joints where you can relatively easily pull the pieces apart. For a better seal, some will use PVC primer like they do in pressurized plumbing systems. Primer will melt the plastic providing a good bond between surfaces. I've never seen an elctrician use primer.

If still in doubt, the Mike Holt forum is an excellent place to ask.
 
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hondacivic247

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I agree I wouldn't think they would be that picky I mean it's not a hack job to be worried about. I'll have to ask him if it's a legit code next time I see him. When I ran the electricsl for the 2 things I made sure I did my part to make it to code.
 

checkthisout

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The NEC says to follow the glue manufacturers instructions. Here is a thread from the Mike Holt electrical forum on gluing: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=135940 I don't see anything where the code specifies that the glue must be visible. I'm an EE (Canadian) and have never heard of that here. Once you have all the conduit and fittings connected and attached with straps, etc.(above ground) it's not likely to come apart and gluing the sn*t out of a joint won't help much.

Glued joints, whether or not you can see the glue after assembly, is no guarantee that the joint won't leak anyway, esp. underground. I've seen some old joints where you can relatively easily pull the pieces apart. For a better seal, some will use PVC primer like they do in pressurized plumbing systems. Primer will melt the plastic providing a good bond between surfaces. I've never seen an elctrician use primer.

If still in doubt, the Mike Holt forum is an excellent place to ask.

They make primer/glue for PVC and it's what generally sold for gluing electrical conduit.

No house inspector is going to check the electrical that closely, however the fact that you did the work without permits WOULD raise a red flag.

It's not that the work you did is out of code, it's that you did the work without permits.
 

gregtwojeeps

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The OP's glue job is not even note worthy to a inspector....but really guys.... all the sparky's on here must be full of turkey and too couch ridden to comment on the OP's conduit/breaker box wiring job which is inspector fodder ...

Only MM08 asked and now I am asking..... On how did he get his conductors from the PVC conduit in to the breaker box ? Did he set a J-Box in the wall , put a cover on it then ...penetrated it with the LB...and then plastered over it ? With all the metal screws showing through the first coat of plaster below the LB, that is what it looks like to me what may have been done anyway....

And no one commenting about the reduction in conduit size from the LB for no other reason....than maybe he ran out of 3/4" or 1 " PVC ? ...

And the lack of a conduit supports at the LB ? Maybe it gets installed after the last coat of plaster is applied ? JMO
 

zmaxmotorsports

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It's in mt home garage. I came out the wall 7" below my panel box with a junction box then used some reducers glued together and a 90 elbow straight over to my receptacle. Maybe I'll just rub some glue on the outside of them to give it the look. Even tho there glued solid already.

I'm only concerned cause we're buying the house within the next 6 months from her parents and a inspector may come out if we're forced to go through a bank for a loan vs a private sale written up

Home inspectors are are generally clowns who wouldnt know a code if you hit them in the side of the head with the book.:spit:
Ive never heard an actual electrical inspector complain about not seeing glue on the outside of a fitting,let alone an internet educated home inspector who spent $50.00 to get a home inspector diploma.:headscrat
An actual inspector can come back on you for workmanship reasons and tag your work if it looks like you slopped glue all over the outside of a piece of pipe if hes having a bad day.;)
 

Bigbandguy

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How difficult would be to add a little "slop" to the job? If done carefully how could anyone tell if the extra glue was part of the original glue job or not.. If they are that chicken s*** it would seem that one pile of s*** would deserve another. The only problem I have seen with home inspectors is that they seem to bring a different chicken with them each time. I have also heard that mentioned about other inspectors. The extra chicken being used to obtain extra inspection fees.
 
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hondacivic247

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To be honest I don't remember how I got into the panell from outside of the wall. I may have some pvc running up to a punch out in the bottom of the box then the wires just connecting to the breaker. The reason I used large pvc was cause it was the easiest way to get the 6g wire through it and I dropped in size to feed it into the 50amp receptacle..

What's the proper way to feed electrical into the panel?
From what I've seen people usually just run it into the wall then pull the wire through a knock out and I've even seen it I think in my panel where there is nothing protecting the wire going through the knockouts from shafing. I get the wires don't move much but I usually use the plastic pieces to protect it.
 
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hondacivic247

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I believe inside the box there was 2 spots for screws to attach it to the wall which I did. This area in my home garage never sees any traffic cause I have my tool box parked in front of it along with shelfs
 
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gregtwojeeps

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To be honest I don't remember how I got into the panell from outside of the wall. I may have some pvc running up to a punch out in the bottom of the box then the wires just connecting to the breaker. The reason I used large pvc was cause it was the easiest way to get the 6g wire through it and I dropped in size to feed it into the 50amp receptacle..

What's the proper way to feed electrical into the panel?
From what I've seen people usually just run it into the wall then pull the wire through a knock out and I've even seen it I think in my panel where there is nothing protecting the wire going through the knockouts from shafing. I get the wires don't move much but I usually use the plastic pieces to protect it.

Assuming you used a romex/type NM cable and a "romex" connector in the breaker box to protect the cable as it sits in metal wall of the cabinet, you are o.k.

As said already, a home inspector will not dig in to your wiring jobs but every house we had inspected, the HI did remove the breaker box cover and inspected what was going on inside the box. Very FEW HI's are electricians. They will plug a tester in to every outlet looking for power/correct polarity / grounding and check GFCI's for function. They will look for uncovered J-boxes, wires hanging loose, fixtures loose so on.

Even when they find electrical issues, they can only recommend any needed repairs, which gives the sellers the option of doing so or the buyers the options of getting a price reduction on the homes to make the repairs. A home inspector cannot "fail" your home inspection, they just make a report of needed items and repairs. I digress...the GOOD HI's will at least. JMO
 

wyliesdiesels

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The OP's glue job is not even note worthy to a inspector....but really guys.... all the sparky's on here must be full of turkey and too couch ridden to comment on the OP's conduit/breaker box wiring job which is inspector fodder ...

Only MM08 asked and now I am asking..... On how did he get his conductors from the PVC conduit in to the breaker box ? Did he set a J-Box in the wall , put a cover on it then ...penetrated it with the LB...and then plastered over it ? With all the metal screws showing through the first coat of plaster below the LB, that is what it looks like to me what may have been done anyway....

And no one commenting about the reduction in conduit size from the LB for no other reason....than maybe he ran out of 3/4" or 1 " PVC ? ...

And the lack of a conduit supports at the LB ? Maybe it gets installed after the last coat of plaster is applied ? JMO

youre right. I was only half paying attention.

However, if he transitioned from individual conductors to a jacketed cable in the LB then he would be fine.

Or he could have used a 90* sweep.

I assume he used reducers and a larger 90* sweep because he didnt have a sweep in the same size.

Yes its sloppy work!
 

mm08822

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Honda - No need to remember how you made the connection and otherwise keep everyone guessing. Remove the covers from the panel and LB and then take pics of both. It can then be determined how you made the entry and if properly done or not.

I’m thinking glue may be the least of your worries………
 

checkthisout

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I've even seen it I think in my panel where there is nothing protecting the wire going through the knockouts from shafing. I get the wires don't move much but I usually use the plastic pieces to protect it.

Ok, so you don't have anything retaining the wire where it goes into the panel and while you were in there, you noticed a couple of other circuits without retention as well?

Gonna rewind my earlier comment here. Yes, even an amateur inspector will notice that coupled with the fact that it simply isn't safe. In my opinion, the wires will eventually chaff and short in that type of situation.

If you are selling the house, just remove your conduit and wiring and be done with it.

Did add any other circuits besides this one?
 
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hondacivic247

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The 6g wire I used was a multi strand wire not solid. I got it for free from my work it was inside a rubber jacket. I stripped down about 1ft of the rubber jacket to pull the wires up into the panel. There still insulated. I just have the j box on the wall screwed into the wall then a ****** then pulled the wire up through a knockout. I have a metal clamp type thing that is in the knockout that squeezes the wire.

Or should I have ran pvc conduit straight to the spot were the knockout is to make it all 1 peice essentially.

I didn't have money at the time to go to lowes or HD to buy romex 6g so I just have the multiple strand copper 6g.
 
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hondacivic247

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I had wired the welder up my self. Her parents own the house and we've been living in it for going on 4 years now. They have there own house but want to sell us this one for half price. If it's a private sale I don't need to worry about any of this which I hope it is. Everything I've done works fine even if it's slightly off.

The reason large conduit wad used cause the 6g wire was so thick with the rubber insulation jacket on it
 
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hondacivic247

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If this doesn't meet code is there a way I can use what I already have to make it meet code?

If I have to redo it all i will now that I have money to do it.

What would be the correct way to run the wire from the J box up into the panel?
 

checkthisout

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The 6g wire I used was a multi strand wire not solid. I got it for free from my work it was inside a rubber jacket. I stripped down about 1ft of the rubber jacket to pull the wires up into the panel. There still insulated. I just have the j box on the wall screwed into the wall then a ****** then pulled the wire up through a knockout. I have a metal clamp type thing that is in the knockout that squeezes the wire.

Or should I have ran pvc conduit straight to the spot were the knockout is to make it all 1 peice essentially.

I didn't have money at the time to go to lowes or HD to buy romex 6g so I just have the multiple strand copper 6g.

Ok, so you have 3 separate wires that are supposed to be in a single jacket passing through 1 single knockout clamp.

I'm out of my league now. It's probably fine but certainly not done properly or in code. Your excuses are understandable but at the end of the day you should probably just remove all of it and plug the holes up in the breaker panel.
 

gregtwojeeps

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No offense Honda but.....

I keep telling myself to stop dropping in on this forum as those of us giving out advice ..... NEVER really knows the skill levels of the folks coming on here asking questions about electrical work ...and what they will do with the info we give them. ..

Today I see a poster that has ran a 220 Volt Welder circuit yet does not recognize what a low voltage transformer is...and that it should not even be inside of a breaker box. I will go now and stay away.
 

wyliesdiesels

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OMG! So much wrong here!

Cordage is NOT to be used as permanent building wire.

That wire needs to be removed and the proper building wire needs to be put in.

The door bell transformer should NOT be in the panel. Move it to another location!
 
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hondacivic247

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I didn't put the door bell in there it was already in there. When the house was built back in the 80's maybe it was allowed I have no idea.

So basically all i need to do is replace the wire I used and it will be up to code?
 
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hondacivic247

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Don't get all bent out of shape guys I like the feedback so I can do it correct. I learn something new everytime.
 
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hondacivic247

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Or someone explain exactly how they would go about this now that you see what I got going on here and I'll buy what I need and it will be done deal
 
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hondacivic247

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I beleive I came out of it into the wall and pulled it up through a knockout into the box. This is where I'm most confused on how it should be done. Once I'm inside the wall am I suppose to run pvs over to the knockout or just rope the wire over to where I want to go into the panel
 
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