Quickjack Cautionary Tale

[canuck coupe]

You shouldn't be lifting / jacking from the bottom of the pinch welds. They're not designed for that and can crush.

You're right. Pinch welds are not designed for lifting without adapters.
But this is not my first rodeo.
I own 4 floor jacks, 6 bottle jacks, and the Quickjack.
I've been lifting on pinch welds for decades. Sometimes with a piece of wood, sometimes with nothing.
The rubber lifting blocks from Quickjack deform readily and, compared to the other things I've used (or not used) to "protect" the welds, they are the least likely to be a problem.
The only reason to be concerned about crushing the pinch welds is that the OEM scissor jack might not fit. The last time I needed to use one of those was 40 years and about 400,000 miles ago. I'll take my chances.

As the jack goes up it moves forward at all points so does the car move forward to compensate for a difference? Is the car free to roll as the jack comes up? Maybe that is the problem with a pinch weld. If the weld stays at one point and the jack moves forward past that point something has to give.

Yes, the Quickjack lifts in an arc. By the time it has achieved full lift, the car will have moved about 10 inches. But once the blocks make contact with the pinch welds, they stay there. It takes a bit of guesswork to position the blocks on the jack prior to lifting since the lift moves up and forward (or back if you are working from the front of the car. I work from the back). You have to lift the jack until the blocks make first contact, then go around to check that all four blocks are on the designated lifting points on the pinch welds.

I have had a Quickjack for a few years now and used it quite a bit. The car on it most of the time is a unibody with pinch welds that are made for lifting. I use both the regular blocks and the pinch weld blocks. There is really no difference between them in my application - neither is safer than the other and honestly, the regular block does a better job at ensuring the full force is on the pinch weld and not up higher on the body. Don't let anyone tell you not to use the pinch welds, they likely just don't have the experience with a car that was designed that way.

I agree. I think the only advantage of blocks with grooves for the pinch welds is that they ensure the block is centered on the pinch weld.

Keep in mind that the blocks DO NOT need to be parallel to the car.

I agree again. Until a day or two ago, I had thought that the issue was a block that was toed out. I'm now thinking that it's not having the block at an angle that matters, it's having the block not centered on the weld that matters. If the weight of the car compresses the block on one side (in my case, the inside), a small lateral force would be induced. Normally, it wouldn't matter, but combined with slippery floors, it's an issue.

As some of the others mentioned I think it's an issue with the frames not being parallel. One other outside chance... is there any way that you accidentally had one frame facing one way and the other facing the opposite way?

The jacks were parallel. I center the blocks in the trays on the jack, then center the entire apparatus on the pinch welds.
It's impossible to have one jack lifting one way and the other jack lifting the other way, because there isn't enough hydraulic hose to reach.

Looking at the photos of the blocks I think there may be an interesting clue. There should be ONE indentation in the block from the pinch weld. But instead we're seeing multiple. This could just be multiple layers of metal that make up your pinch weld.

It took me while to figure that out. There are indeed three layers at the lifting points: two layers of body sheet metal plus a thicker reinforcing layer. They are not spread as far apart as the indentations on the block. The actual layers are separated by a millimeter or so. On the block, it looks like 3 times that. I think that's due to the compression. The indentations were made at full compression. As the block decompressed, the lines spread apart like letters on an expanding balloon.

A combination of two things caused this....... A "slick" Race Deck floor and Blocks NOT "centered" properly on the lift pushing down on the lift and creating a lateral force on the inside load point that most likely created lifting on the outside of the QJ on the slick floor therefore pushing the entire assembly from out of the car.

Thank You OP for posting this problem and hopefully everyone with a QJ reads it and takes the time to TRIPLE check everything before they get under their car.

Yes! The incident was a combination of 1) a block not being centered and 2) slippery garage tiles.


Meanwhile, I did some tests to see how much force is required to move a Quickjack across my garage tiles unmodified and with rubber feet.

With no weight on the jack: 11 lbs unmodified and 21 lbs with rubber feet.
With 200 lbs on the jack: 42 lbs unmodified and 88 lbs with rubber feet.
With 400 lbs: 73 lbs unmodified and beyond the limit of my measuring device (100 lbs) with rubber.

Story and pics here:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/298456-quickjack-cautionary-tale.html

What do these numbers tell us? I'm not sure yet. I intend to apply my rudimentary mathematics skills in an attempt to prove my theory about how this could happen.
I'll get back to you.

 

[speedyspaghetti]

Glad you're ok. I have a jack stand shift on me once, luckily I was not under the car, but that'll make you re-think things real quick.

 

[nc.detail]

Geez, glad you're okay.

I have QJ 5K and also use on swisstrax and haven't had any issues, even on a wet surface. I haven't had a need to stack blocks though and any weight shift could drop the vehicle.

 

[local17bri]

I use a QuickJack 7000SLX to service my 4700 lb Ford Taurus SHO among several other cars. The QJ slotted blocks were always difficult to align properly became more deformed every time I used them. I often needed to release from the pinch welds by pounding on them with a hammer after lowering the car. The rubber blocks also contacted the plastic body molding on some cars where the opening near the pinch weld was not large enough to accommodate the large surface area of the rubber block.
I bought pinch weld adapters (4 for ~$30 on Ebay) and now I have much more confidence raising the car properly than I had using the rubber pinch weld blocks alone. The 3-inch diameter aluminum pinch weld adapters are held in place on the car with magnets. It is easy to raise the QJ frames (with factory rubber blocks in the trays) till they're nearly touching the adapters, then adjust and properly align the frames and blocks. I attached another magnet and string to the adapters so I don't forget to remove the adapters from the pinch welds. I no longer have an issue with the lift blocks contacting the plastic body moldings. I don't know why QJ doesn't supply/offer something similar.

 

[npp]

Never had a problem with mine. Can’t see it spitting out unless there was too many blocks were used.

 

[canuck coupe]

What do these numbers tell us? I'm not sure yet. I intend to apply my rudimentary mathematics skills in an attempt to prove my theory about how this could happen.
I'll get back to you.

I took my limited data, graphed it, and applied a little trigonometry (more accurately, my son applied some trig. I haven't done any since about 1973).

In my estimation, it would have taken about 160 pounds of lateral force to spit the jack out from under the car. That translates to a vector that is about 10 degrees off vertical.

That's believable. I have taken photos of the blocks with the weight of the car on them. I can see how loading the block off center can deform it enough to add a 10 degree vector.

New summary of factors leading up to the Quickjack being shot out from under my car:
1) Quickjack was centered on the pinch weld rather than the lifting pad just inboard of the weld. This caused the inboard side of the lifting block to be compressed more than the outboard side.
2) the front pad was misaligned (toed out 6 degrees), adding even more compression to the inboard side.
3) the pads were oriented lengthwise, rather than sideways, reducing the margin of error for load placement
4) the small lateral (outward) force created by the uneven compression overcame the low friction between the Quickjack and the plastic garage tiles.

Pictures and more story on page 3 here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/298456-quickjack-cautionary-tale-3.html

I have now been under the car again with it up on the Quickjack.
Changes made to equipment and procedure:
1) Rubber feet on Quickjack with much more friction.
2) Load properly centered on the Quickjacks so there should be no lateral forces.
3) Four supplementary jack stands

BTW, I have contacted Bendpak (Quickjack). We'll see where that goes.
Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.

Stay safe!

 

[pepi]

I took my limited data, graphed it, and applied a little trigonometry (more accurately, my son applied some trig. I haven't done any since about 1973).

In my estimation, it would have taken about 160 pounds of lateral force to spit the jack out from under the car. That translates to a vector that is about 10 degrees off vertical.

That's believable. I have taken photos of the blocks with the weight of the car on them. I can see how loading the block off center can deform it enough to add a 10 degree vector.

New summary of factors leading up to the Quickjack being shot out from under my car:
1) Quickjack was centered on the pinch weld rather than the lifting pad just inboard of the weld. This caused the inboard side of the lifting block to be compressed more than the outboard side.
2) the front pad was misaligned (toed out 6 degrees), adding even more compression to the inboard side.
3) the pads were oriented lengthwise, rather than sideways, reducing the margin of error for load placement
4) the small lateral (outward) force created by the uneven compression overcame the low friction between the Quickjack and the plastic garage tiles.

Pictures and more story on page 3 here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/298456-quickjack-cautionary-tale-3.html

I have now been under the car again with it up on the Quickjack.
Changes made to equipment and procedure:
1) Rubber feet on Quickjack with much more friction.
2) Load properly centered on the Quickjacks so there should be no lateral forces.
3) Four supplementary jack stands

BTW, I have contacted Bendpak (Quickjack). We'll see where that goes.
Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.

Stay safe!

Conclusion:
User did not use good judgment, exercise common sense.

Question why the hell are you contacting Quick JacK. The problem here is the guy in the mirror.

You're that guy stands on the top of a step ladder. Falls on his *** and complains the ladder was improperly labeled.

Amazing

Oh be careful, "DO NOT LOWER QUICK JACK WHILE UNDER CAR " not recommended

Stay safe you say .....?.... is that not like the kettle calling the pot black

 

[Plastikosmd]

Good summary CC


It sounds like you’ve made your lifting construct much safer.

 

[MarlynOC]

Canuck, does that take into account that the car may have been in gear and it was resisting any inertia to move forward on the tires/wheels holding firm?

 

[vavet]

OP: thank you for taking the time to objectively analyze what happened, where mistakes were made, how to fix them, and posting your findings here.
It takes a big person to own their mistakes on a public forum. None of your mistakes were immediately obvious. That makes them a little more deadly because of the seemingly innocent nature.

I think most of us are glad you are still here to relate the story and appreciate you doing it. Perhaps QJ will include some additional cautions in their manual to address these things. If they do, I hope they are able to wordsmith them in a way that doesn't just sound like additional CYA language.

 

[Bill Bowman]

This^^^^

 

[Showkey]

You shouldn't be lifting / jacking from the bottom of the pinch welds. They're not designed for that and can crush.

Actually the vast majority of unibody vehicles have a reinforced area of the pinch weld specifically for jacking.

 

[Alcap]

This was a very good thread for me to read . Looking at different options for my garage . This gave me a real world issue with them .

 

[Ohio Auto]

For those that own them and like them thats great. But ... I watched one of their commercials the other night and told the wife there's no way I would work under one of them.

 

[npp]

Really would have liked to see pictures, I have the 7000 model and never had a problem and I stack my blocks,when jack is lowered on the locks I physically rock the vehicle , I have used it on a Porsche 914 to my son’s Silverado.

 

[Klokwerk]

I've had quickjacks for about a year now. I've lifted my car maybe a dozen times now.
The only time I ever felt like something was sketchy was my first and second lifts.

First lift, I noticed one of the jacks kind of twisting as I lifted it. Not a very noticiable thing and I stopped the lift immediately but did not lower it right away. I took a few minutes walking around the car, now only just off the tires and completely on the jacks.

What I noticed is the two jacks were not perfectly parrallel to each other. I took a measuring tape out to check.
I had not made sure that they were parrallel before lifting it. Was preoccupied with getting the pucks lined up with the jack points.
Because they were not parrallel, as the car lifted the two jacks were raising the car in different directions. Had I gone further, one or both of them may tipped over.

Second lift, I noticed again a slight wobble/twist as I was lifting. Again I stopped and checked what I'd done wrong.
This time, both of the jacks were parrallel however, one was closer to the front of the car than the other. So, when lifting, again, they were not lifting in the same way.

Once I figure that out, I've not had a problem since. Lifts perfectly every time and very stable. Would not worry about getting under it at all.

OP, you might want to consider this.

 

[LCSteve]

You can add me to the list of people with nothing but QuickJack problems. From day 1 I had issues with the Jack's lifting evenly. We're talking over 6 inch difference at the top extension. QJ tech support was so so and was sending me new parts every week for nearly a month to fix the tilt. After we think we fixed it, the passenger side jack collapsed spontaneously. The locks caught it but the jolt of a 4k car dropping to that next lock kicked the jack sideways under the Floorplan. Took a floor jack to fix that mess.

The 2nd and 3rd time is fell was with a 1800lb car in the air. Same scenario one side just collapsed jolt caused a mess again. The 3rd time was the most nerve-wracking since it was lift VERY uneven and the high side was going up at ~3x the rate of the other. Problem was if I lowered the jacks the high side lowered ~3x as slow exacerbating the problem then it hit the lock. Requiring me to raise it up to unlock. That car had to be leaning over 20° at that point. Hand jacks to the rescue.

Threw it in the bed of my truck and drove it to Costco (glad I bought it there since I was 2 mos in now) and returned it. I'll never own one of those again. I ultimately used it 7 or 8 times and 3 times it failed almost catastrophically. Thankfully I escaped with only a dented floor pan.

 

[mrvm]

You can add me to the list of people with nothing but QuickJack problems.

One slip of the QJ supporting a vehicle while I contemplated whether I should grab a jack stand as I was about to go underneath was enough for me. Ez return at Costco once I told them how the QJ had fallen.

 

[Plastikosmd]

Yikes!

 

[samper]

Interesting comments from users. I just bought one for myself recently. Have not set it up. But will make sure to follow the advise on this board and manufacturer. I think I will definitely use jack stands underneath also.

 

[mrvm]

Interesting comments from users. I just bought one for myself recently. Have not set it up. But will make sure to follow the advise on this board and manufacturer. I think I will definitely use jack stands underneath also.

One tip from my QJ experience is not to double stack the rubber blocks even though the manual stated it was an option.

 

[Bennylava]

Grandfather's cousin got killed working on a car back in the 1950's. He was underneath, his poor jack setup failed. That story was all it took to make me always take the safe route.

 

[SCMorgan93]

While doing some research to find out why my QJ's slid out from under my car, I came across this site. The most glaring common denominator is that I also have plastic garage tiles like the OP that allow the QJ to slide very easily. I have the SwissTrax ribbed style tiles in my garage. I think their slippery nature with the steel bottom of the QJ allows them to slip out if everything isn't aligned up very carefully.

 

[jonesg]

its just a bad idea.
save up the extra lolly for a lift.

 

[BonzoHansen]

I have none of these issues with my 7000. I've had both my camaros on it, my avalanche, my k1500, our old pilot and my kids challenger. On an epoxy coated concrete floor.

I'd love a 2 post, but I don't have the room.

 

[mike93lx]

its just a bad idea.
save up the extra lolly for a lift.

What a stupid video.

I can use it like a *****, take a video and add dramatic music too

 

[crepr12]

Yes and another thank you to the OP....I dont want to jinx myself...I have used one since about 2017...Only issue was a major brain fart on my part...ok I lowered a vehicle to low without wheels and that @Itch sunk to the garage floor...my fault 100% I know this...that said I only have ever used one lifting block and since that one issue have been super diligent when lifting or lowering a vehicle......The product works for me...jmho

 

[Colin Len]

Yes and another thank you to the OP....I dont want to jinx myself...I have used one since about 2017...Only issue was a major brain fart on my part...ok I lowered a vehicle to low without wheels and that @Itch sunk to the garage floor...my fault 100% I know this...that said I only have ever used one lifting block and since that one issue have been super diligent when lifting or lowering a vehicle......The product works for me...jmho

I have nearly the exact same experience. For me, the QuickJack is a lifesaver. I don't have room for a real garage and my primary project car is quite low which makes it a huge PITA to lift front/rear off the ground at the same time without an intricate process. I can also get the car much higher off the ground than with my normal jack/stands. That made it key in the exhaust fabrication project I took on a while back.

I'd much rather have a real lift but unfortunately that's not possible in my current situation. For now I'll continue to use the QuickJack and some common sense without fear.

 

[jonesg]

I have none of these issues with my 7000. I've had both my camaros on it, my avalanche, my k1500, our old pilot and my kids challenger. On an epoxy coated concrete floor.

I'd love a 2 post, but I don't have the room.

my garage is 13 feet wide, its not very wide but i'll be installing a 2 post.

A quick jack doesn't give me much more than I currently get with ramps, trolley jack and jack stands.
I fail to see any benefit, and side access is blocked.