Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Quonset Hut Garage Build
- Thread starter dwysywd
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
So I'm at my buddy's house yesterday and I'm talking about my power issues with DTE. They argued with me about putting second service at my house. Anyhow he just had them do it. So I must have had the one ***** on the phone that didn't know what she was talking about. Anyhow, I digress... We are talking about 200 amp service panels. He says did you buy one yet. No, so he say I have an extra! And gave me a nice GE 200 amp 40 pole panel with a main switch. So, not I just have to get it all mounted and wire pulled. And I will be hot!
SierraDenizen
Well-known member
Sweet! This post encouraged me to take the plunge, just checked my fixtures and ballast removal should be a piece of cake. I will IM for your bulb source.
Time for an update... Installed steel on the west stick built wall. (Pics coming tomorrow) and starting the east wall Sunday afternoon. I'm planning to build a small door stoop too. So I have to get that done before I finish the steel. If anyone has some ideas or plans, please let me know. My thoughts are 2x4 with a header 2x6. Then putting a piece of clear corrugated plastic on the top to maximize the light.
Ok. So tomorrow was 5 days ago! LoL. So here are the photos of my steel on the west wall. I'm using steel roofing that I recycled from a garage we took down at our business. Hey, it was free and I have enough to do both walls. But it need a good power washing.
Now I have a question for those who care to give their feedback, notice how my channel for the steel stops on the radius, suggestions?
I already tried to cut it in slats and bend. I am thinking of just cutting it in 6" pieces and screwing it up that way. Thoughts anyone?
Regards,
Jeff
Sent from my bag phone...
Now I have a question for those who care to give their feedback, notice how my channel for the steel stops on the radius, suggestions?
I already tried to cut it in slats and bend. I am thinking of just cutting it in 6" pieces and screwing it up that way. Thoughts anyone?
Regards,
Jeff
Sent from my bag phone...
Ok so started the bid process on a few items.
Going with spray foam. I called 2 guys. One was a referral, he was $2000 for 1" of closed cell foam for the entire hut. He feels that 1" will give me R7, but that the extra air tightness will make the unit easier to heat. Plus he will tuck all my corners and edges around the end walls and spray all the floor troughs to make them water tight before I put down cement. The other guy insisted I needed 2" and it was $3800. But he wasn't going to do the extras either. My neighbor referred the 1st guy and has done 2 large barns over 5000 sq ft. I am going with guy number 1. This winter will be the only way to test it. He said if I needed more, he would come back and do for less than $2000 but he thinks I will be fine.
Next, had the dirt working guy come out. He thinks it will be $500 to excavate and level the floor. We expect that with the topsoil coming out, and needed to get to clay, I will put a foot of base inside. The base will be ground concrete instead of sand. Few reasons, but it will pack tighter and drain better than sand. Cost is the same. He's done hundreds of floors and this is how he prefers to do them. He did this way in his 3000 sq ft shop and drives his dump trucks in all the time. Concrete Dirt was $375 for 28 yards
Next was the concrete. My buddies are awesome and work for $20 hr/ and there are 3 of them. They can pour the cement in one day and will come back and saw cut. Total pour labor costs $700-750 which works out to be less than $1/sqft. Going rate here is $1.50/sqft for the labor. Concrete is 14 yards at $105 plus fiber fill so $120/yrd is $1800 with tax.
Setting up the floor for radiant heat, mainly pex and foam right now. I decided to buy the panels with the pex prerouted. The pex should only be about $500 for the garage. So I just need to price the panels.
Finally, Electrical. I planned it all out today. Labor was $200 to run all the lines in 1/2" conduit, about 15 outlets, (2) 3 way switches, 2 outdoor lights, 220v line for welder and 220v line for the air compressor.
Dang... that adds up quick!
Now I have to sell my enclosed snowmobile trailer and all will be well!
Going with spray foam. I called 2 guys. One was a referral, he was $2000 for 1" of closed cell foam for the entire hut. He feels that 1" will give me R7, but that the extra air tightness will make the unit easier to heat. Plus he will tuck all my corners and edges around the end walls and spray all the floor troughs to make them water tight before I put down cement. The other guy insisted I needed 2" and it was $3800. But he wasn't going to do the extras either. My neighbor referred the 1st guy and has done 2 large barns over 5000 sq ft. I am going with guy number 1. This winter will be the only way to test it. He said if I needed more, he would come back and do for less than $2000 but he thinks I will be fine.
Next, had the dirt working guy come out. He thinks it will be $500 to excavate and level the floor. We expect that with the topsoil coming out, and needed to get to clay, I will put a foot of base inside. The base will be ground concrete instead of sand. Few reasons, but it will pack tighter and drain better than sand. Cost is the same. He's done hundreds of floors and this is how he prefers to do them. He did this way in his 3000 sq ft shop and drives his dump trucks in all the time. Concrete Dirt was $375 for 28 yards
Next was the concrete. My buddies are awesome and work for $20 hr/ and there are 3 of them. They can pour the cement in one day and will come back and saw cut. Total pour labor costs $700-750 which works out to be less than $1/sqft. Going rate here is $1.50/sqft for the labor. Concrete is 14 yards at $105 plus fiber fill so $120/yrd is $1800 with tax.
Setting up the floor for radiant heat, mainly pex and foam right now. I decided to buy the panels with the pex prerouted. The pex should only be about $500 for the garage. So I just need to price the panels.
Finally, Electrical. I planned it all out today. Labor was $200 to run all the lines in 1/2" conduit, about 15 outlets, (2) 3 way switches, 2 outdoor lights, 220v line for welder and 220v line for the air compressor.
Dang... that adds up quick!
Now I have to sell my enclosed snowmobile trailer and all will be well!
txvwnut
Well-known member
Hey look at you three doors and a window.
Yep. The hardest part was getting the radius on the side and top to fit flush. Fitting around the doors and window were easy compared to the radius. And it isn't as simple as pulling a string with pencil and tracing, it's oblong.
Regards,
Jeff
Sent from my bag phone...
Regards,
Jeff
Sent from my bag phone...
txvwnut
Well-known member
Yeah I remember when I did my end walls I left the radius part of the sheathing till last. I did full squares until I had pie shaped openings at both walls. Took me a little get the radius where I liked it. But I was doing OSB sheets as I had to brick mine for city code to be happy.
Wow, it's been 2.5 months since I updated this. Well, where to start.
1st, built a 24x20 addition onto my house, so pretty much all of my resources have been going there.
2nd, just finished most of the inside walls. Finished the steel outside. Finished the aluminum trim around the window and 3 doors.
3rd electrical is almost finished ... 51% done...lol
4th got a new (to me) wood stove and finally,
5th planning to excavate the topsoil, add base and compact before winter. Planning for concrete next year depending on the cash flow
I will post some pictures tomorrow.
1st, built a 24x20 addition onto my house, so pretty much all of my resources have been going there.
2nd, just finished most of the inside walls. Finished the steel outside. Finished the aluminum trim around the window and 3 doors.
3rd electrical is almost finished ... 51% done...lol
4th got a new (to me) wood stove and finally,
5th planning to excavate the topsoil, add base and compact before winter. Planning for concrete next year depending on the cash flow
I will post some pictures tomorrow.
finished the doors and windows with a dark tan aluminum trim that matches what I put on the house. almost done with the electrical. have to finish pulling the last bit of wire and mount my boxes for outside lights over the doors. and the. get my rough inspection completed next week.
also, getting ready to pull the dirt out of the floor to begin prep for cement. plan is to back fill my sand for this winter with my membrane floor down as a vapor barrier. then in the spring I can build my insulation and pex on top and then pour
Sent from my facsimile machine
also, getting ready to pull the dirt out of the floor to begin prep for cement. plan is to back fill my sand for this winter with my membrane floor down as a vapor barrier. then in the spring I can build my insulation and pex on top and then pour
Sent from my facsimile machine
Passed electrical on first swipe, minus 2 small fixes that can be corrected by the time I do the final (move grounding block and change one small pipe 1' long). Pretty stoked that's over with. Time to complete and hang lights this week. If all goes well, I will be posting some photos of the electrical and lights done!
Quick question....anyone....pouring small slab for my wood stove. Do I need to insulate under that? My plan is to put heated floor under the rest of the barn when I lay concrete next year. I plan to insulate that obviously. So, should I vapor barrier and then insulate under my stove too? I am pouring that now to have it functional this winter
I would insulate under it. The more the better to help the heat work mo better. I would use probably 6 - 8 mil plastic sheet, then use 2" of Styrofoam insulation. I bought mine from Menards, they have the kind that has foil on one side and a plastic type coating on the other. Then maybe find some fire type bricks that will reflect the heat away from the stove. My .02 cents worth for free
called radient Tech and they advised me that the concrete under my stove does not need foam, only a vapor barrier. so I put down plastic, sand and dumped my concrete. it will get covered when I pour my floor and bringing the total height of the floor another 2-3" but in the meantime I get to memorialize my decision to vote. lol. regardless of your political beliefs, Mine are set in concrete...quite literally.
Sent from my facsimile machine
Sent from my facsimile machine
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sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Good job!
So got some great news today, 2" of spray foam will cost $2400. It's 1600 sq ft with all the ribs from floor to ceiling to floor. Cement is about $1000, pex about 1000 linear ft (800 for the heat and 200 for the line out to the barn), and I got a smoking deal on the xps 2" Corning for just $15 sheet (it's $34 at HD), and I ordered 30. So, getting closer to getting done.
txvwnut
Well-known member
So when are you looking at pouring concrete?
if all goes well, early spring. my wife and I built an addition on the house and that's been a major undertaking. plus hard to justify barn concrete while I'm waiting to put in drywall. lol so I'm prepping materials like foam and pex to be ready. I found a smoking deal on the foam, $15 board through a distributor friend. so that saved me huge. so I have some other small projects in the hut to keep me busy all winter
Sent from my facsimile machine
Sent from my facsimile machine
dittle fart around
Well-known member
Just checked out your thread. We used to go apple picking in Romeo when I was a kid. Born in Pontiac, cause there's no hospital in Oxford. My grandparents lived in Capac. We lived a block off M24 on the south border with Lake Orion.
Just checked out your thread. We used to go apple picking in Romeo when I was a kid. Born in Pontiac, cause there's no hospital in Oxford. My grandparents lived in Capac. We lived a block off M24 on the south border with Lake Orion.
That's awesome! You posted the rv bus build. That was fun to follow. Sorry it didn't work out for your son. Yeah, I moved out of state for college, got married, moved a bit for work, but eventually came home to raise my 2 kids here. They were 7&11 when we moved. Now they are 17 & 13!!!!
autoclassicnut
Well-known member
called radient Tech and they advised me that the concrete under my stove does not need foam, only a vapor barrier. so I put down plastic, sand and dumped my concrete. it will get covered when I pour my floor and bringing the total height of the floor another 2-3" but in the meantime I get to memorialize my decision to vote. lol. regardless of your political beliefs, Mine are set in concrete...quite literally.
Sent from my facsimile machine
nice prediction on the election! I am in my shop nearly every day... here is a link to it...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15772
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RivennHewn
Well-known member
Nice work on the addition, and the shop!
I'm kinda jealous of all the space.
I'm kinda jealous of all the space.