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Radiator hose clamps?

malibu101

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I somewhat recently got a tool for spring type hose clamps. It works great! I always dreaded messing around with pliers on spring clamps so when I removed them I resorted to the usual replacement worm drive stainless clamps.
But now I have some questions.

Which type do you like better? Any reason why one over the other?
Do you ever reuse spring clamps? Do they ever lose tension in normal use?

Stock images of of my tool and clamps I'm talking about.
 

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MrGiggles

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As long as they're in a halfway accessible location, I prefer to leave them be.

Spring type clamps are preferable because their tension is generally constant, unlike a worm drive which can lose or gain tension with heat.
 

rlitman

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...Spring type clamps are preferable because their tension is generally constant, unlike a worm drive which can lose or gain tension with heat.

This is true. I've replaced some with Breeze clamps, which are a spring loaded worm clamp. I'm now trying Gates powergrip shrink clamps.

I have the pliers style tool (not the cable type).
 

bob15

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I've learned to like the band clamps you have in the upper left picture. that said, worm-type still have their place.
 

anndel

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If needed, I replace the hose clamps with the exact same type - mostly spring clamps. I used to use a pair of Channellocks or Vise Grips to remove them but recently I've been using an Astro Pneumatic Memory hose clamp pliers and wished I bought one earlier.
 

Gmonkee

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The wire spring type clamps tend to cut into older soft rubber. The flat band type are decent about not damaging any hose.

That said I just left the stone age on these myself and finally accepted the spring clamps.
The will lose tension over time but it seems to be a long time. Like decades now.
 

Dave455

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If I encounter the spring type clips, and I don't think I'm going to have to remove them again, I usually just put 'em back! As MrGiggles says, tension is constant!

Generally I prefer worm drive clips (called Jubilee clips here in the U.K) PROVIDED they are decent quality! I really don't know why some manufacturers put such ****** clips on their stuff, and if I find the crappy ones I always replace them with decent ones. If it's my own vehicle, with stainless too! Here in the U.K. you can get decent ones from several makers including the genuine 'Jubilee' and they cost little! Worm drive clips can withstand more pressure than the spring type, so are to be preferred in some applications!

I always replace the wire clips that cut into the hose (used by some British manufacturers, why I don't know) and the crimp on clips that seem to offer the worst of all worlds!
 

Dave455

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P.S. Hose clip story - my late Father used to fly an aircraft powered by 4 (water cooled) Merlin's! Although beautifully built, and now the stuff of legend, Dad never liked the engine! "50 f'ing hoses and 100 f'ing jubilee clips, a leak in any of which causes a shutdown" was his memorable quote, along with 'always carry a clip spanner'! The latter probably holds good today!
 

mjoekingz28

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I got an 87 RX-7 back in 2007 and replaced the spring type heater hose clamps with worm drives as they lost tension and would leak.

The other day, man, Why do they make the spring clamps nearly impossible to work with tongue and grooves or slip joints????? I hope to never deal with them again, but I have scoped out where to find one of those tools pictured above if I need to remove another.


FWIW, I remember reading that clamps should be replaced the same time as when the hoses are.
 

Tom.C

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Just fyi if you're in the market for the cable clamp removal tool mayhew has bogo deals on them.
 
OP
M

malibu101

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After the reasons in the responses above, I'm pretty well sold on the spring clamps. I'll have to stock some.

Please let me ask again- Do you guys trust reusing them? For example, say your changing an original hose with original spring clamps on a 10 year old car. Would you change the clamps?

On the tool. I got a Craftsman and used it 3 times on a heater hose clamp. It broke. Sears refunded me and I got an Astro 9409A like I pictured and am sorry I didn't buy one many years ago.
 

mrjaw14

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I've resigned myself to reusing the spring clamps. Too hard to find quality stainless clamps. Even the marine guys have a hard time sourcing good clamps. So I figure why replace something that works, unless I'm replacing it because it's not working anymore. This is the clamp marine guys use. If only the auto parts stores had these! Puts even pressure around the hose unlike a worm drive clamp. And it's a band so it doesn't groove the hose as bad
 

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theoldwizard1

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Which type do you like better? Any reason why one over the other?
Do you ever reuse spring clamps? Do they ever lose tension in normal use.

The round wire clamps are pretty much "extinct" ! I have not seen them in years although I have a special pair of pliers just for them.

The flat style are sized very closely for the application. Never had one fail even after loosening multiple times. Some people say they are better because they expand and contract as required.

For small flat spring hose clamps (like on small engines) the best tool is a long handled 90° needle nose pliers. Actually, locking needle nose pliers work good on heavy duty flat spring hose clamps if you can get the proper angle on them.
 
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Cope

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The round spring clamps are called Corbin clamps, and everyone used to make a pliers to R&R them. They were standard equipment on Mopar and I remember one on a 1970 Buick that slipped out of the mechanic's pliers and hit me in the eye.
 

AusGlenno

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Spring clamps (Edit: I realise you are talking about a different set of clamps. This statement relates to C clamps.) are generally from the factory and are because they are cheaper and faster to install. These clamps also look slimmer than worm drive. You often cannot not get them as tight as worm drive clamps. Side cutters are great for removing ones from hard to reach places. Not to cut off but the side cutter gets under the clamp and a quick flick of the wrist knocks them off.

Edit: the clamps are reusable, but I'm talking abou t C clamps (http://www.engnetglobal.com/c/c.aspx/INT123/productdetail/norma-cobra) which are different to what you have a picture of. I would not use the ones in your pics for anything important. I have some in my motorcycle fuel tank hooked up to the fuel filter, but that is it.

Worm drive clamps are good provided you do not use notched ones on soft hoses like silicon as it chews into the silicon. Best to get soft edge full banded worm drives often marketed specifically for silicon hoses. Worm drive clamps can also back off a bit and a best lockwired to limit that.
You could also consider double ear clamps (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GRY0HXC/?tag=atomicindustr-21)

For a radiator hose I would prefer to use Clic R or soft edge not notched worm drive clamps for silicon hoses. Samco make some nice silicon sets. The Gates shrink wrap clamps look interesting but not reusable.
 
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Marcm157

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I have a version of the tool the OP pictured and use it fairly often. I also have a pair of pliers without the cable made for the clamps. Makes life so much easier when dealing with these types of clamps...
 

WWheeler

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If the clamp looks to be in good shape I reuse what's there, but if it seems weak or any signs it might not be up to the task I'll replace it.

If i can reach it easy, Gearwrench locking hose clamp pliers are the best I've found by far. They work soooo much better on all squeeze-type clamps than trying to fight them off with a pair of needle nose.

de74ol.jpg


For all the hard to reach ones, the cable style works great. I had a set of Astro's that worked great while they lasted which was a year or so before the cable just snapped on me, some of those clamps can take a lot of force to open up, so I recently upgraded to these Mayhew 28680 (same set also rebranded as Snap On SHCP1A and Matco HCPF90)

wk3d77.jpg
 
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bmwpowere36m3

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For traditional hose clamps (worn drive) I prefer the european torro clamps made by Gemi, Norma and ABA.

DV_WebLarge_P_27701.jpg
 

Wamsutta

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I prefer the spring clamps for the constant tension they provide plus they don't dig into the hose like worm clamps do. They're a win win.
 

WhataTool

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For all the hard to reach ones, the cable style works great. I had a set of Astro's that worked great while they lasted which was a year or so before the cable just snapped on me, some of those clamps can take a lot of force to open up, so I recently upgraded to these Mayhew 28680 (same set also rebranded as Snap On SHCP1A and Matco HCPF90)

wk3d77.jpg

Interesting, my Mayhew's broke and so I picked up Astro's :lol_hitti

The Astro 9409A has a thicker diameter cable. Plus, I've seen Astro send a cable free of charge to a person on here. When it comes to stubborn clamps, sometimes they are just going to ruin your day regardless.
 

rustbucket5

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i generally put back what was there, or replace with worm clamps as they are more readily available it seems. i have had no issue reusing the large spring clamps but have had issue with the smaller ones before. recently rebuilt a GM 6.5 diesel and all the fuel return lines were held on with the smallest spring clamps i have ever seen and a lot of them just stay open or deformed upon removal
 

derosa

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After the reasons in the responses above, I'm pretty well sold on the spring clamps. I'll have to stock some.

Please let me ask again- Do you guys trust reusing them? For example, say your changing an original hose with original spring clamps on a 10 year old car. Would you change the clamps?
If I'm pulling the hose to change the fluid I don't bother. If a hose is worn I replace all hoses and clamps. The rest might still have a couple years in them but I don't care to waste the time and resources later when they might wear our. Or worry that I didn't notice another hose was just as worn. Being in the north I haven't seen a factory clamp that didn't look old, if all the hoses are being done why be pound foolish, and I like the clean look of new stainless clamps.
 

Gmonkee

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QUOTE=malibu101;6409765]After the reasons in the responses above, I'm pretty well sold on the spring clamps. I'll have to stock some.

Please let me ask again- Do you guys trust reusing them? For example, say your changing an original hose with original spring clamps on a 10 year old car. Would you change the clamps?

On the tool. I got a Craftsman and used it 3 times on a heater hose clamp. It broke. Sears refunded me and I got an Astro 9409A like I pictured and am sorry I didn't buy one many years ago.[/QUOTE]

If the clamp takes effort to open and is round when relaxed I feel safe reusing them. Deformed or weak clamps hit the scrap. Junk yards have dozens of them laying on the dirt everywhere. Ask for price by the pound.
 

WWheeler

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Interesting, my Mayhew's broke and so I picked up Astro's :lol_hitti

The Astro 9409A has a thicker diameter cable. Plus, I've seen Astro send a cable free of charge to a person on here. When it comes to stubborn clamps, sometimes they are just going to ruin your day regardless.

Astro's tools are warrantied for 1 yr. Mayhew Pro tools have a lifetime warranty, though IIRC the cable is regarded as a consumable. (edit: I'm not sure if Snap On / Matco will warranty the cable or not on their rebadged Mayhews - might depend on your dealer).

My 9409A's cable was advertised as 'thicker' than whatever their previous version was, but I'm not sure exactly what size it was. I don't recall it being as thick as the 2mm (5/64") cable the Mayhew 28680 has.

In either case the cable can be replaced. I like that the Mayhew cable assembly simply snaps on and off & can be replaced in a few seconds. I should probably get around to calling Astro to see what a replacement from them will cost me. I have seen them advertised elsewhere for around $23 incl shipping, but I think I only paid $30 for the pliers in the first place.
 
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Wamsutta

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I recently upgraded to these Mayhew 28680 (same set also rebranded as Snap On SHCP1A and Matco HCPF90)

wk3d77.jpg

I have those pliers and although they're great for large clamps, they don't squeeze the small clamps (like heater hose clamps) enough. Have you had that trouble with yours?
 

WWheeler

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I have those pliers and although they're great for large clamps, they don't squeeze the small clamps (like heater hose clamps) enough. Have you had that trouble with yours?

Haven't had them very long. Only used on one job so far, but they do ratchet close and hold down to just under a 3mm gap between jaws so I can't really see a problem with them working on small clamps. I'll be putting them to use quite a bit over the next week so we'll see.

I have seen reviews showing that Snap On's newer model SHCP2 won't close anywhere near enough to be useful for smaller clamps though. For example:
 

evintho

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This is what I use for traditional worm drive hose clamps and they're dirt cheap!

Instead of using the cheap hose clamps you buy at the local chain auto parts and hardware stores that tend to strip when you put to much torque on 'em and/or cut into the hose material..........try these......



Next time you're at the local Pick-N-Pull mosey on over to the high end import section. Pop the hood on some BMW and Mercedes and grab several sizes. I've gotten 'em as small as 1/4" and as big as 4" (in millimeters though).

The slots are louvered (much stronger) and the clamp edges are beaded and rolled (also much stronger). Made in Germany too, not Taiwan or India........yes, there is a difference! They even have the sizes stamped on them in millimeters. Being stronger they're able to be much thinner also.



Check out the comparison. The cheap ones just have slots stamped in them, sharp edges and they're much fatter. The German ones you can torque on 'til your hearts content! One time I paid $.25 apiece and another time they just waived me through. I use these all over the roadster!




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Schurkey

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I have come full-circle.

Where once I gleefully flung spring-clamps into the trash, replacing them with cheap (but American-made) worm-gear clamps; I now replace worm gear clamps with, at minimum, expensive worm-gear clamps. My favorite spring-clamps are the style used on my Trailblazer's radiator hoses--they lock open when squeezed hard enough, then "pop" the lock to clamp them around the hose. It absolutely could not be more simple or elegant. Downside is that I have no idea where to buy a variety of sizes aside from researching OEM applications at the GM dealer.

What I find with typical, non-shielded worm-drive clamps is that the hose cold-flows under and through the clamp slots, and then the whole mess leaks and looks like this:
Fuel_Pump_9.jpg

Which is why I almost never use unshielded worm-gear clamps any more. As shown in the photo, for typical 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8 fuel hose, I use "fuel injection" clamps that don't damage the hose as much.

I've come to respect Oetiker clamps on silicone hoses. I suspect they'd work fine on neoprene hose, but I've never used them in that application. The Oetikers are hateful in terms of sizing--you'd need an inventory of every size made; because unlike worm-gear clamps, the size range per part number is very limited. I used to install heaps and piles of silicone elbows, and just getting an elbow with a slightly different wall thickness required the next size larger Oetiker clamp. Note that you've probably used a different version of Oetiker "stepless" clamp if you've put a boot on a CV driveshaft. Many CV boots are retained by a crimped Oetiker. These are screw-tightened. Once properly sized and tightened, they'd last forever, leak-free, and without hose damage.
Example: www.amazon.com/Oetiker-17800180-Sta...684850&sr=8-3&keywords=Oetiker+stepless+screw

71WQ5WYVF6L._SX385_.jpg


My Oldsmobile has Constant-torque Breeze clamps on the cooling system. Expensive, but like the Oetikers, they don't come loose, they don't leak, and they don't damage the hose nearly as bad as non-shielded worm-gear clamps. They use belleville springs instead of coil springs. Unlike the Oetikers, they've got a generous size range per part number.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SD02VM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

816NJEYsbRL._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg


I used the "T-bolt" style clamp pictured in a previous post. I had a lot of trouble with them--specifically, they were one-use clamps. The nut would seize and gall the T-bolt, so once tightened, you couldn't remove them. We installed a lot of them on 5 or 6 inch diameter air intake pipes with rubber boots connecting them together. I suppose the clamps were 6.5" diameter or so. We never, ever tried to anti-seize the threads. That wasn't on the Bill of Materials, and it wasn't an approved procedure according to Engineering...so we didn't do it. Maybe that would have helped.

V-band clamps are wonderful for air piping and perhaps automotive exhaust. They require a special flange to be welded to one of the pipes, the mating pipe can be flared to match. The clamp then covers and secures. The downside of course, is that you have to have the special flange and flare installed before the clamp does you any good.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P28WK2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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rlitman

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...I've come to respect Oetiker clamps on silicone hoses. I suspect they'd work fine on neoprene hose, but I've never used them in that application. The Oetikers are hateful in terms of sizing--you'd need an inventory of every size made; because unlike worm-gear clamps, the size range per part number is very limited. I used to install heaps and piles of silicone elbows, and just getting an elbow with a slightly different wall thickness required the next size larger Oetiker clamp. Note that you've probably used a different version of Oetiker "stepless" clamp if you've put a boot on a CV driveshaft. Many CV boots are retained by a crimped Oetiker. These are screw-tightened. Once properly sized and tightened, they'd last forever, leak-free, and without hose damage.
Example: www.amazon.com/Oetiker-17800180-Sta...684850&sr=8-3&keywords=Oetiker+stepless+screw

71WQ5WYVF6L._SX385_.jpg


My Oldsmobile has Constant-torque Breeze clamps on the cooling system. Expensive, but like the Oetikers, they don't come loose, they don't leak, and they don't damage the hose nearly as bad as non-shielded worm-gear clamps. They use belleville springs instead of coil springs. Unlike the Oetikers, they've got a generous size range per part number.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SD02VM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

816NJEYsbRL._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg
...

You've highlighted my two favorites. The stepless Oetiker clamps are the best thing since sliced bread. I've found the cheapest source of them is the hardware store, where they're sold for PEX use (and they're my choice for that application too). Unfortunately, the narrow clamp range means that there are gaps between the PEX sized ones that you'll need to have some intermediate sized clamps to fill sometimes.

Stepless Oetiker clamps have solved issues for me with transmission cooler hoses that just would not stop weeping. I have not found anything that seals better, and at the price, I don't mind that they're single use. However, the ones I use would crush a radiator fitting.

I mentioned Breeze clamps above. We had an issue at work with coolant hoses on block heaters leaking from the silicone hoses at the barbs, and replacing all the worm clamps with Breeze clamps solved the issue. Stepless Oetiker clamps would have been fine too, but we wanted something multi-use in this case. Anyway, worm clamps without a smooth interior band and spring loading are totally unacceptable on silicone hoses.
 
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