RapidAir "MaxLine" installation

[JackB]

I am installing a 3/4" maxline system now too. I run 3/4" in the drops too, mainly because I thought it was easier to order that way. Even with shipping from the US it was almost half the price of copper tubing over here.
It is pretty easy to put up. I used clips every 50cm and it looks pretty straight after a little manual fine tuning. Will be interesting to see if I get zero leaks too.

 

[bizkit10]

Any updates soj? If my electrician doesn't show this weekend (buddy deal) I plan to start running my air lines. I opted for a 7.5HP 80 gallon Eaton compressor over the quincy. They advertise a lower dba with the eaton. I plan to have my compressor inside.

I would really like to see your tie-in into the comressor. Thanks again and awesome work...Oh yea I just ordered another 100' since you guys talked me into a loop system, thanks I guess

 

[soj]

Any updates soj? If my electrician doesn't show this weekend (buddy deal) I plan to start running my air lines. I opted for a 7.5HP 80 gallon Eaton compressor over the quincy. They advertise a lower dba with the eaton. I plan to have my compressor inside.

I would really like to see your tie-in into the comressor. Thanks again and awesome work...Oh yea I just ordered another 100' since you guys talked me into a loop system, thanks I guess

Haven't done anything else to the air system except use it. I have the compressor temporarily hooked up to one of the drops for now. I have been busy on a vehicle project lately, almost finished, just waiting on my upholstery guy to finish the seats.

I think you made a good choice with the Eaton. If I was buying one today that would probably be my choice. I like their low RPM pumps for less noise, and, it would seem, longer life.

I will update as soon as I get started on the compressor relocation.
jps

 

[JackB]

My maxline system had no leaks either. Kind of surprised me, but very happy with it.

I installed 1/2" couplings and flexible hoses from the tank to the water separator (1/2" separator too), and everything has much smaller inner diameter than the blue maxline lines themselves. But I imagine the cost of 3/4" or 1" couplings/hoses and a 3/4" separator would have been super expensive. As it was the two hoses I had made (one 8" and one 36") and the separator was $400.. more than the complete maxline system. Just something to consider when pricing the complete system.

 

[darkk]

We are using Pex tubing. It withstood our high pressure air test for the water system and a previous air line install in another garage.

 

[soj]

My maxline system had no leaks either. Kind of surprised me, but very happy with it.

I installed 1/2" couplings and flexible hoses from the tank to the water separator (1/2" separator too), and everything has much smaller inner diameter than the blue maxline lines themselves. But I imagine the cost of 3/4" or 1" couplings/hoses and a 3/4" separator would have been super expensive. As it was the two hoses I had made (one 8" and one 36") and the separator was $400.. more than the complete maxline system. Just something to consider when pricing the complete system.

Pictures??????

 

[JackB]

Here's the compressor end. I will take a few pictures of the rest later.

 

[tncumminsguy]

About to plumb the shop that I am going to rent from a buddy, should I go with the 1/2 inch kit or 3/4? Plan to run a decent compressor, regulator /filter, then harbor freight air dryer Then to different points or air hose reels in a insulated steel building

 

[soj]

About to plumb the shop that I am going to rent from a buddy, should I go with the 1/2 inch kit or 3/4? Plan to run a decent compressor, regulator /filter, then harbor freight air dryer Then to different points or air hose reels in a insulated steel building

What will you be doing with the air? If you have no high volume tools (sand blaster, spray painting, etc.) you could "get by" with 1/2", but the bigger the line the more volume capacity you will have. Doesn't give you any more pressure, just more CFM. Also, the larger diameter allows the air to move slower in the line, which can allow more moisture to drop out of the air (condense) and be drained off.

Bigger is better , it's just do you want to spend the money for the long term benefits.
jp

 

[bizkit10]

Any updates soj?

 

[bloomingtonmike]

Bump up for current Maxline installers and to say thank you to the OP for this thread and the detail provided in it.

 

[soj]

Any updates soj?

Sorry for the slow reply... somehow I missed your question. But no updates, have done nothing to the system since installation, except use it. Which is a good thing... meaning no leaks or other problems. I have been sidelined from doing anything to the shop by home improvement projects at the house. When that is finished I will relocate the compressor and connect to the Maxline where I originally intended.

Bump up for current Maxline installers and to say thank you to the OP for this thread and the detail provided in it.

Thanks Mike. I will update the thread after compressor relocation.
-jp

 

[Jab4633]

Very good thread! I have been reading a lot of reviews online and this is the first real world install with pictures and detailed info.

soj, what pressure do you run in your system? My largest concern was the pressure rating on the MaxLine. 175psi at moderate temps, then it drops significantly as temps increase.

We are getting ready to install in our 60 x 100 farm shop, compressor kicks out at 155psi... and temps near the roof line are easily over 100F in the summer. Will take a significant amount of tubing to complete the install (halo loop and 10 drops) so don't want to waste a bunch of money if it's not up to pressure we run.

Thanks, and again... Good thread.

 

[soj]

Very good thread! I have been reading a lot of reviews online and this is the first real world install with pictures and detailed info.

soj, what pressure do you run in your system? My largest concern was the pressure rating on the MaxLine. 175psi at moderate temps, then it drops significantly as temps increase.

We are getting ready to install in our 60 x 100 farm shop, compressor kicks out at 155psi... and temps near the roof line are easily over 100F in the summer. Will take a significant amount of tubing to complete the install (halo loop and 10 drops) so don't want to waste a bunch of money if it's not up to pressure we run.

Thanks, and again... Good thread.

Welcome to Garage Journal, and thanks for the kind words.

My compressor cuts out at 175 and I run full tank pressure in the lines. I am in the southern US, so my near ceiling temps are over 100F as well, and no problems. I think they have the working pressure ratings very conservative, I am sure the burst pressure is much higher.

Good luck with your install. Post some pics and let us know how it goes and your thoughts on it after you have worked with it.
-jp

 

[bams50]

Great thread. Question- I want to put this in an old shop I'm restoring that has an in-floor lift. I will have to connect to the original iron pipe at the lift valve. I assume there are fittings that can adapt this line to the old pipe, correct?

 

[hoyt]

I just began assembling the parts to make this water separator.

I also plan on making this compressor silencer.

 

[soj]

Great thread. Question- I want to put this in an old shop I'm restoring that has an in-floor lift. I will have to connect to the original iron pipe at the lift valve. I assume there are fittings that can adapt this line to the old pipe, correct?

Yes.

The kits come with pipe thread X compression adapters, and additional adapters can be ordered from Rapid Air. Most kit vendors do not carry the extra parts (Northern Tool is one exception).

You say "in an old shop". What happened to the combination house/display area/shop?

-jp

 

[bams50]

Yes.

The kits come with pipe thread X compression adapters, and additional adapters can be ordered from Rapid Air. Most kit vendors do not carry the extra parts (Northern Tool is one exception).

You say "in an old shop". What happened to the combination house/display area/shop?

-jp

That's still the end game, just set back a few years. The building I'm working on now is a 30s/40s gas station that I have owned about 10 years. It currently has two bays with in-floor lift and office. I am planning to add a 35x50 addition off the back of it. This is where my business is, and the addition will be for an expanded repair/restoration shop. Here's a picture:

Once I get this where I want it, the home/shop project will be started. Since we want to do all these things without borrowing, we have to go a little slower. But I'm 53, and I don't want to go into old age with debt over my head. So one step at a time; first is the old garage

 

[soj]

That's still the end game, just set back a few years. The building I'm working on now is a 30s/40s gas station that I have owned about 10 years. It currently has two bays with in-floor lift and office. I am planning to add a 35x50 addition off the back of it. This is where my business is, and the addition will be for an expanded repair/restoration shop.

Once I get this where I want it, the home/shop project will be started. Since we want to do all these things without borrowing, we have to go a little slower. But I'm 53, and I don't want to go into old age with debt over my head. So one step at a time; first is the old garage

I can see you are as bad as I am about adding projects to the "list". They get in the way of the final goal, but it seems they all are necessary.

Good luck with your journey, and let us know how you like or dislike the MaxAir.

-jp

 

[Trey T]

Please show more pictures of your compressor and system.

 

[sberry]

As it was the two hoses I had made (one 8" and one 36") and the separator was $400.. more than the complete maxline system. Just something to consider when pricing the complete system.

When I started a lot of my jobs were expensive and sometimes I threw money at it. This is worth noting. I like to see affordable and when we mention hoses everyone rushes off to have one made vs shopping at the farm store where a ready made can be had 10-15 dollars all fittings and even a union is only 3 or 4.
I really work on providing it where needed vs everywhere and to tell the truth my fave is 1/2 black pipe. Its really bigger than 1/2 as are the fittings and even at 100 plus ft there is about 1/2 or 3/4 # pressure drop with a 1/2 air gun.
Using this and a little simplifying can drastically decrease the additional cost and complexity. Some of these I see where they chase leaks its no wonder, while at first glance it looks creative its not really and has 6 fittings to do one.
The last steel line I added serves 2 3/8 hoses, all from 1/2. 60 ft of pipe with 2 elbows a t and 3 or 4 couplings and a couple 3 reducing bushings. I don't think we even made any threads, we used an extra coupling or 2 and 10 ft stock from Home Depot. I had plumbed it with some spare air hose and wanted to recover it, the pipe didn't cost much. We tapped it from a reg we had but there is no reason for a home brew type not to use something from the box store for 50$.

 

[sberry]

Seems I put in about 60 ft and it come to about 75$ and 3/4 isn't all that much more. I was going to 3/8 25 ft hoses though so it was moot and can do reducing in common one step.
Menards has 1/2 frl kit for cheap and I tossed the lube. It comes with a couple fittings I think.

 

[sberry]

I like all the 1/4 ports on this Sharpe I had forever, added a T or 2, one of the hoses feeds the 60 ft of hard line. About 1/2 the air in my shop gets routed thru this unit. Feeds 4 or 5 things.

 

[bams50]

I can see you are as bad as I am about adding projects to the "list". They get in the way of the final goal, but it seems they all are necessary.

Good luck with your journey, and let us know how you like or dislike the MaxAir.

-jp

Yeah. The way I live is, I make a plan, then get about the business of working the plan. But I understand that circumstances may dictate changes in the plan, and I need to be open to them- especially when they're beneficial, like this one. But at 53, I still struggle a little with patience

 

[183beast]

Just picked up a 1/2 rapid air kit for 49.99 at TSC. I have a 30x 50 shop and was going to run this down one side and put in two drops. I'm 2nd guessing this as everyone else seems to be running a loop. I have plenty of compressor (5hp 17.4cfm @ 175psi) Does anyone see a problem with the setup I'm purposing?

 

[sberry]

Not a problem. Loops really need to be designed correctly. A 1/2 feeding 3/8 at this distance is negligible at that distance. The loop system is primarily for large plant systems with air beyond. Not that it can't work but keep it simple to start with. Put the regulator down the line a ways to the first drop.

 

[manwithtools]

Loops don't need to be "designed correctly". If you size the loop piping at least as large as your largest drops you are fine. It would be nice if the line from compressor to loop is larger than the the loop lines, but it's not absolutely required.

Isn't the above from the guy that says all you need is a couple of hose reels in any shop less than 50,000 sq. ft.?

 

[Desert rider]

This will be my first attempt at posting photos...

I ran the same system around my garage. I positioned the compressors outside in it's own enclosure to keep the noise to a minumin, and ran the line thru the wall. This has been up five years and as you can see, (I hope) the line has pulled out of the plastic tie downs. But for what it's worth, the whole system works. I've attached five photos, hope I did it correctly...

Chuck in NV

 

[Desert rider]

I'm thinking of going this route. Did you leave the tubing out in the sun for a while? It supposedly makes it easier to straighten it out.

I did leave mine out in the summer Las Vegas sun and it made absolutely no difference. After five years, it still tries to go back to the coiled state. I ran 1/2 in all around the garage since I mostly just use it to blow chips and clean the workbench... works great.

Chuck in NV

 

[iagsxr]

Just picked up a 1/2 rapid air kit for 49.99 at TSC. I have a 30x 50 shop and was going to run this down one side and put in two drops. I'm 2nd guessing this as everyone else seems to be running a loop. I have plenty of compressor (5hp 17.4cfm @ 175psi) Does anyone see a problem with the setup I'm purposing?

Go here, read: http://www.rapidairproducts.com/page/design-center

 

[cspcrx]

I finally have all of my stuff together for mine. I think I went beyond my compressors abilities and my needs.
- Maxline M7500 3/4 kit
- 2 Legacy Flexzilla 3/8 30' reels
- 1 HF 20 ft reel
- All Legacy Flexzilla high flow couplers and fittings.

Plan is 3 drops one in each corner of the garage by garage doors, 30' reels, and the 20' in the front. My Husky 30gal compressor only has the 1/4 out through the pressure switch and regulator. That's why I say system is more than compressor can deliver. No bung or fitting on the tank, so that's not an option.

Hopefully there will not be any issues by going from the 1/4 up to 3/4.

 

[sberry]

Its not going to hurt anything.

 

[bams50]

I wouldn't think you could have too much line for s compressor. The only effect would be that more line would store more air capacity, and that's a good thing.

 

[cspcrx]

Thanks guys. Sorry, OP, if I pulled it off topic at all.

 

[sberry]

There is nothing fundamentally wrong with a loop but they usually are in the same picture as that TP drawing for plant air. Great for truly long distance where transmission is an issue and where provisions are made to have drain legs, great where its impractical to increase pipe size. Go above 2 inch and it gets one step harder and considerably more expensive.
The op is heading down one wall for a couple drops, would be more practical to go 3/4 for a bit if it was really going to be a problem. If he said he was running a truck tire service center with several bays then all this comes in to play, for a small garage it may just add complexity that never really has much advantage.

 

[sberry]

I remember doing this once in a plant setup. The GM had someone pencil it all out and at times they had problems with supply, was going to upsize a main at considerable expense and we had to draw pitchers to get him to understand we could simply tie on another line in to it that wasn't being used to capacity which created a loop so to speak, took a couple days instead of couple weeks and shutting the place down or doing it at night and bringing in 3 inch threading, pipe and fittings.

 

[ads357]

How did you get this for $50 from TSC? I see it on their site for $80.

 

[mgaston53]

Just bought (2) 1/2" kits for $49.99 each. Marked as Clearance for $64.99 & asked them to price check and it rang up at the reduced cost. I think it is in store in stock only.

 

[183beast]

How did you get this for $50 from TSC? I see it on their site for $80.

Yep, sitting on the shelf at TSC for 49.99. Marked down clearance.

 

[Newell33]

Just bought (2) 1/2" kits for $49.99 each. Marked as Clearance for $64.99 & asked them to price check and it rang up at the reduced cost. I think it is in store in stock only.

I'm curious if you guys that have purchased the clearance air line kits have installed them yet. I was told that previous generations of this product didn't uncoil very well, whereas the second generation tubing is a lot easier to run in a straight line. Does anyone know if the clearance product is earlier or later generation?