Back to work on high steer setup for old Ford. Need a longer drag link to reach knuckle. OCD had me not totally happy with Y-link style TRE on pass side. Would be more-better-er with regular 1T GM TRE to match other side.
I had previously bough 4' of 1.5 x 0.25 wall DOM and 7/8 tube inserts to rebuild the track bar. So had material on hand for a longer tie rod.
Measure, cut, bevel. But right before I welded them on I noticed that the threaded inserts were 7/8-14 for heims and the tie rods are 7/8-18. Poo. So ordered some similar types from Ruff Stuff and welded them up.
Old tie rod to be shortened to become the new drag link.
My welding kung-fu has improved over the years and now I feel comfortable doing life-and-death steering welds. I weld with three beads, 120* at a time, 2 flats of the hex nut. So a slight up and slightly down path that won't look consistent unless you adjust travel speed.
The right bevel is key, leave 30% or so unbeveled. Goal is full fill, and full adhesion to available surface area.
Can see the heat signature by looking at inside. start-stop points, cold spots, ect.
I like this type of threaded insert that has no thread where the weld joint is. Threads that far back do nothing (smart people say only the first few thread so anything). I have another type from Sky's offroad that is fully threaded, and would worry about heat warpage.
Installed and torqued arm. Tight fit.
Now drag link is quite flat. Even with track bar in flattest position it's not enough. Test drive confirmed bad bump steer. Have to extend the fame and/or axle brackets to dial it in.
Looks like it will clear frame when at bump on pass side. Steering wheel will still turn 95% of the 4 turns lock to lock using inner hole on arm. This means that before I was limited by box. Now it hits stops and tire just touches at full lock. So I gained some steering angle. Does seem to have a bit less assist force as expected. Will see how it does on the trail and if a ram is needed.