rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Yes always lots going on in the shop.

Took truck out for first test drive with new trans on Friday. Very different experience than the 3 spd. 3-up gears shift at lower rpm and manutronic button didn't work. Got trans to 178* and cooler circuit should have opened. Hoses or cooler didn't feel hot so not sure if full of air still. Will cause fluid level to drop when it does. Could not read fluid level on remote dipstick. Used a razor to score a cross hatch pattern on the end, now I can read.

Installed shift software on PC, connected to controller and configured some items. Farted around with Shift RPM vs TPS tables. Can program how trans behaves with shift selector positions, shift RPM, firmness, and so on. WOT shift points are set at 5500 RPM, 40% TPS at 3000 RPM. Slick.
Test drove again, manual buttons work as expected in 'M' position. Tried progressively higher throttle application through the gears as learning was taking place. From a stop, moderate throttle will lift front end up and spin the tires. Feels like it hits a limit, probably the limit ******** left side. Didn't go WOT through the gears yet.

Still amazed it is not leaking anything. Don't know what to do will all the cardboard I had saved up. Might even clean up the stains on the shop floor.

 

[rattle_snake]

With truck back on the road switched over to upgraded leaf spring project. I had found some purchasable cut-yourself designs for hangers and shackles from

DIY Offroad – Download. Cut. Shred.

Your source for Off Road fabrication CAD files. These files are ready to download and cut. It includes everything you need to build the part you wish to build. DXF are plasma and Laser ready.

www.diyoffroad.com

These are designed for a 2.5" width spring, which is what I changed to already (aka chevy 63"). So could use as-is. Made NC file for each piece and started to cut, even though I haven't really figure out best parameters for setup yet...


A few parts had wrong torch speed. My Miller 375 likes 20-25 i/m on 0.187 mild. Holes come out a bit small due to cut bevel. Square tab holes are ok on top but round on bottom, and some pieces needed to be flipped. Fitment is poor compared to waterjet. So some lessons learned, and some future things to mitigate.
It took a fair amount of time to process, cut and clean up all the pieces. Send-cut-send would be less work, but have to wait to ship, and no way to remake if wrong.


Then final fitment and weld-er up. At first I welded the internal seams before back plate. Then I realized that this design is meant to be welded only from the outside, and all of the outside to make it sealed. Torque box by design.

Back side has a sleeved recess for bolt and adds strength.


Then onto the shackle. Did all the NC files at desk with big monitor and mouse instead of little laptop. Then let machine cut while I prepped the pervious pieces, weld and done.


Paint and test fit


Changing from a compression to a tension style shackle setup.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Great work on the upgrades and getting the truck back on the road! I admire the constant improvements you've made to an already awesome truck.

I wanted to add a suggestion for the fitment issues you had on the shackle parts: try lowering your torch height. Kerf angle like you're describing with the bolt holes and the roundness of the square corners is caused by the shape of the plasma arc in relation to the Z height of the machine. Check out this diagram for a better explanation:


Of course, you're right to say that it's not water jet quality, but with the proper settings and design tweaks you can get some really nice quality plasma cut parts - especially on thinner material like the .1875" you cut here.

 

[rattle_snake]

Austin,
Thanks for the advice. Will try some experiments on scrap. I opted for torch height control so should be able to just alter base setting. I think it is at 0.0625.

Also, I knew I would eventually have to acknowledge you were right to weld the water pan, but not so soon, 'cause it's already leaking!
I have made plans for a chassis with casters, electrical, fluid storage/pump and so on. May have to move up priority.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Austin,
Thanks for the advice. Will try some experiments on scrap. I opted for torch height control so should be able to just alter base setting. I think it is at 0.0625.

Also, I knew I would eventually have to acknowledge you were right to weld the water pan, but not so soon, 'cause it's already leaking!
I have made plans for a chassis with casters, electrical, fluid storage/pump and so on. May have to move up priority.

Hahaha - I'd be remiss if I didn't give you a good old fashioned Told Ya SO!

 

[rattle_snake]

yes I was waiting for that...

Drained the table, its filthy. Plan to just address pan and wait on the rest of the mods. Have some SS mig wire to make boogers with. Don't need any more projects at this time.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Too bad you already got rid of your TIG machine, it was super easy to just fusion weld the halves together. I ground the rib down to below the bolt holes before I welded mine.

 

[rattle_snake]

That is a nice job you did on the pan Austin. I plan to hack with MIG SS308 wire and C25.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made a temporary button apparatus to test out the manual shift mode. Connector for easy removal


Considering adding shift up and down buttons on ends of factory horn bar, and multiplexing them in with horn circuit through clock spring. Microcontroller to decode and actuate trans controller inputs and horn relay.

 

[slodat]

This is one of the best posts you've made, and you've had many great posts! Details when you get to it!

 

[LXCam]

Nice job on the hanger Justin!

 

[Bodj Built]

I often look through DIY offroad's offerings but have yet to use them. I just design my own stuff. If it's a suspension component or something that has to have a critical bolt hole size, I undersize them in my drawing and open the holes up with a step bit after they're cut out.

 

[rattle_snake]

This is one of the best posts you've made, and you've had many great posts! Details when you get to it!

Which post exactly are you referring to?

Nice job on the hanger Justin!

Thanks Cam. Plasma table takes my fab capabilities to next level.

I often look through DIY offroad's offerings but have yet to use them. I just design my own stuff. If it's a suspension component or something that has to have a critical bolt hole size, I undersize them in my drawing and open the holes up with a step bit after they're cut out.

Given the hardening that the steel incurs during plasma cutting, do you use a special step bit? I tried and it made horrific noises telling me to stop immediately, same for twist drill. I ended up using a die grinder with a fresh carbide burr at very low speed.

I was luck that DIY OR had pretty much a turn key design for me, did not need to alter the design, but could have. It was designed in a way I would have never arrived at myself, so a good learning experience with construction techniques.

I'm still learning Fusion 360 so the design process longer than it should. I sit in front of a screen all day so not my favorite thing to do in my 'free' time. I imaging most of what I make on the table will be custom design.

 

[slodat]

Which post exactly are you referring to?

The switch box and all the multiplexing talk! Sounds awesome!

 

[rattle_snake]

ya will be quite the project. Simple SW but putting a fragile microcontroller in a auto environment take some protection in HW. Probably cobble up something on a proto board. Decode with ADC or three comparators.

 

[rattle_snake]

Continuing to drive truck around and tweak tuning of shift points. Getting into WOT pulls and the experience is fantastic. Truck is significantly quicker than before. The exhaust drone doesn't seem to be as bad since the engine is at lower rpm, need more highway miles.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Continuing to drive truck around and tweak tuning of shift points. Getting into WOT pulls and the experience is fantastic. Truck is significantly quicker than before. The exhaust drone doesn't seem to be as bad since the engine is at lower rpm, need more highway miles.

This just keeps sounding better!

 

[rattle_snake]

Ended up not traveling this weekend and got some extra shop time. So on to the rear spring swap!

Starting point, rev 2.3. Old worn out 2500 4 leaf packs, tuned 12" Fox 2.0, large bump stop.
The problem: worn out flat springs, compression shackle. rear bottoms out on bump stops too easily.


The fix: +7 arch spring, 10 leaf, Mil wrap. new rear hanger and shackles for tension setup. Quite a different in free arch


Cut off the old hangers. No fun working right next to fuel tank with sparks and arcs.
Cut perches off axle tubes as they needed to be at a different angle. The traction bar maintained the pinion angle of 11*.
But how to mount the new shackle hanger? Rear of 72 2WD frame tapers down to 4" of height, and hangers are taller, maybe for 73+ F100. Started to fiddle with some type of extension/support. Was digging through my stash of flat stock and realized I have a plasma table so no constraints, hand cuts or holes to drill.
Created a 360 sketch and NC file in under 5 min, with provisions for 4 mounting locations 1" apart. This way I don't have to cut/weld to move shackle position next time. Extends frame down another 2.5, but will have to completely rework bumper mount, which has it's own problems.


Welded the extensions onto the radius of the frame. Plenty of adhesion although not pretty.


On to the other side.


Added some gussets on back side.


Mock-up and test fit. New springs have considerable more droop and now use all the down travel the 12" shock has. Probably got 2-3" more down travel. The pack separates some and shackle is resting on mount, may limit with a strap. See how things work first.


Set truck on the ground to see what ride height would be. Not enough but very close to estimation. I planned on needing a 1" block so I could adjust down if needed.


Went through my stash of blocks and found a 2". Popped it in, a bit high but springs will settle, so plan to test drive and tune from there. Bump stops will have to be revisited.

 

[rattle_snake]

Continued to prep for test drive on new springs. Torqued the u bolts, it holds the pack together tighter and reduced the shackle angle. Pack still separates a bit but not too bad.


Access to hanger bolt constrained the frame extension, but ended up in same size as bumper bracket.


Started on bumper modifications so I can test drive. Shortened mounts to fit with shackle hangers, and removed the horizontal attachment points all together. Having bolts in 2 planes is not ideal for install/remove. Hard to line up, and have to be tightened in a certain order to get subsequent holes to line up. Now there will be 4 bolts per side in one plane, using one existing hole. I drilled most of the holes in the frame and then test fit bumper to center punch the hole locations to bumper. Like most things I have some more improvements for the bumper, but I just slapped it on with half the bolts to get it on the road.

 

[Bodj Built]

Given the hardening that the steel incurs during plasma cutting, do you use a special step bit? I tried and it made horrific noises telling me to stop immediately, same for twist drill. I ended up using a die grinder with a fresh carbide burr at very low speed.

I just use a standard step bit from HF. The nitrite coated ones cut great, but they're expensive. Chuck it in the drill press and let 'er eat. No lube.

 

[rattle_snake]

Ok thanks for the advice. I destroyed my step bit so I bought a new one, a Milwaukee that local Ace HW had in stock.

Took a stab at addressing plasma bevel, set torch height from 0.062 to 0.040 and slowed speed further from 22 down to 18. Not big changes but huge difference in cut quality. Minimal slag & kerf, minimal cleanup. Made holes 0.050 oversize, still some bevel to the holes but cleaned up nice.
Put a bead of silicone on bottom of water table seam. Filled only one side partially, seems to be holding so far...

 

[MadeByMiller]

Glad the tweaks improved cut quality! Are you cutting your bolt holes at the same speed as your perimeter cuts? A good rule of thumb is to cut small interior profiles like bolt holes at 60% feed rate of your external profile cuts.

 

[rattle_snake]

yes thanks. I'll have to look into how to do that.

 

[MadeByMiller]

yes thanks. I'll have to look into how to do that.

Are you using Fusion for CAM? It's pretty annoying to change cut speed, you have to create individual profiles and manually select what you want at what speed. I highly recommend SheetCAM. The UI isn't as friendly, but it's infinitely more configurable and "smart". You can set it detect your bolt holes or whatever feature automatically and apply the presets you choose. It's worth learning.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes fusion 360. I didn't see an option. I'll take a look at sheetCAM thanks for the tip.

 

[rattle_snake]

Drove the 72 Ford to work and back to let the new springs settle in. Dropped about an inch, so right on target, for now, truck is level.
I also added another 3/8 of preload to front coils for a total of 1". Overall ride height went up 1", as up-travel for better ride at higher speeds. This put me back to the middle of the front shock shaft. The rear bump position is still good as the spring/block stack height ends up the same.
Front; Up 4.25, Down 5.75
Rear; Up 4, Down 7+
Previously up travel was 2.5 front/3 rear so a decent improvement. It no longer bottoms out on the stops and axle can move under control of suspension. That was the goal. Need more miles of different terrain to really see how it performs. It still rides like it has a lot of un-sprung weight. Looks about the same.


I started with no spring pin offset. Flexed out the tire now rubs the rear of the fender a bit. Looks like about a 1/2" forward would correct and allow max tire stuffage.


Next steps are
-Adjust traction bar instant center
-longer limit straps to get another inch of down travel, to 11" total vertical travel (F and R). The high steer arm allowed for this.
-Front sway bar. Need to figure out how to package/mount while clearing everything.

And that should be it for suspension. Can always spend more but to significantly improve would need to start over with better everything. Better to do that on the next one....

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Looks like you've been using your cement properly!

Ford looks good, one of these days you're going to run out of things to upgrade and then get bored

 

[rattle_snake]

Uh, ya there may be a few marks form my foot slipping accidently.

List is getting shorter but have so many other projects....

 

[zmotorsports]

Those are some decent looking travel numbers Justin. Nice job dialing it in.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks I'm pretty happy with it. Could cut the fenders and get a few more inches up, but that doesn't go with the theme of the truck.

 

[rattle_snake]

Back to finishing rear bumper. So much easier to remove and install now.
Some minor trimming for new spring hangers.


Beyond just finishing drilling all the holes I wanted to reinforce the area around the notch for the end of the bed. Really should have been a radius bottom to minimize stress points. Cut out some overlay plates on plasma with no corners, cause why not? Curves are now the same effort as a strait cut.


Spray bomb and done. Eight 1/2" cap screws to secure.


[/URL]

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks I'm pretty happy with it. Could cut the fenders and get a few more inches up, but that doesn't go with the theme of the truck.

Agreed. I wouldn't butcher the body at this point, even on a Furd, as it looks too good as is.

 

[ntsqd]

Depending just how involved you want to get, and how tunable you want the sway bar to be, this is the design that I worked up for the Valiant:



End links can be slid along the round parts of the arms to fine-tune the rate, and the 4130 tube w/ 4130 flanges welded onto it can be changed to a different size for rough tuning. I made the pillow blocks 1.00x 1.50 6061 bar stock. Cut to length, drill the bolt holes undersize, and then ream them to Ø0.375" Clamped them horizontally in the mill with the split-line parallel to the vise jaws. I put undersize dowel pins in the holes first. Then hole-sawed under-size and bored to tube size + .01" The small hole between the bolt heads is for a grease zerk.
Can bend the flat strap arms however needed to fit. Was thinking loose-ish spacers between the pillow blocks and the flanges to keep the tube centered.

Anyway, FWTW.....

 

[rattle_snake]

Cool design. I'm leaning towards a DIY kit like the Currie anti-rock to keep things simple. I started a sway bar tech thread over on Irate4x4 that is getting some good content added.

 

[rattle_snake]

Installed some longer 6" shackles on the chassis end of the traction bar to lower the effective instant center and lift under throttle. While doing so I found that the lower bar bushing was shot. Popped in a new set and adjusted the upper link as needed. Used the old spring shackles and doubled them up to 1/2" thick.


Although this lowered the front of the bar, it's not a big deal and is still above exhaust.


Can feel a difference, less lift as expected and doesn't unload chassis as bad on first hit. Still not ideal but improved for minimal effort.

 

[ntsqd]

Thanks, but I blatently stole the core concept of the swaybar design from an IMSA Showroom Stock Racer that I helped assemble in '89.

 

[rattle_snake]

Continuing to dial in the suspension on both ends.
Took some measurements and pulled the limit straps off to see what the length should be. I moved them from another location and length is short. Bumped the lift up a bit at a time until front driveshaft double cardan started to bind. I modified it to go 30*+ which is enough to get the shocks to full droop. Previously the drag link was the limit, but no longer with high steer arm.
Currently the 15" straps limit down travel by 2-1/4", so some improvement can be made there. 16" strap still leaves 1-1/4 margin. Or could use a steel link to extend.

Pulled the rear blocks and plates off to drill new pin holes 1/2 forward from center, to center the wheel in the opening. Welded old hole shut on block and replaced the piece of flat bar on the spring plate. The new springs allow the shock max droop on rear. Rear shock is a 12" at an angle, only using about 8" of the stroke. Checked pinion angle, still at 1* down, on target. Next step is to test flexed out again.

 

[ntsqd]

I forget, are your limit straps adjustable or fixed?
The local guys use these to make them adjustable at the upper anchor: https://www.mcmaster.com/clevises/externally-threaded-clevis-rod-ends/

 

[Bodj Built]

I forget, are your limit straps adjustable or fixed?
The local guys use these to make them adjustable at the upper anchor: https://www.mcmaster.com/clevises/externally-threaded-clevis-rod-ends/

Yup. Works well for taking slack out of stretched out straps. I don't use them, though lol. Too cheap hah

Adjustable Limiting Strap Clevis 1/2" Diameter Shank Holds Up To 3 Suspension Limiting Straps - Kartek Off-Road

Adjustable Limiting Strap Clevis 1/2" Diameter Shank Holds Up To 3 Suspension Limiting Straps for a sandrail, rock Crawler, KOH, Ultra4, truck, UTV, side-by-side, dune buggy, mini buggy, manx, king of the hammers, 4x4, or Jeep

www.kartek.com

 

[rattle_snake]

Fixed. Thanks for the idea. My neighbor has some so I grabbed them to see if they will work...