rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[plain2car]

understood thanks. Here's a good example of a broken truck and BBF lurking in the background. Wish the motor was in the truck and running but it does make a good conversation piece....

Justin, I understand about the engine running part.... one of these days you'll hear about my truck improvement "adventures"..LOL!!! OOHH by the way. it is good that you have the engine out to make conversation! cuz looing around the pic it looks like finding conversation topics would be REALLY difficult!! LOL!! as always love the pics & and the stories.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, I understand about the engine running part.... one of these days you'll hear about my truck improvement "adventures"..LOL!!! OOHH by the way. it is good that you have the engine out to make conversation! cuz looing around the pic it looks like finding conversation topics would be REALLY difficult!! LOL!! as always love the pics & and the stories.

Start a thread for your truck project.
Thanks, you are right most of the 'stuff' is interesting or useful. I look back at the old pics with bare walls and although sterile, not as interesting. I like sterile though.

 

[rattle_snake]

Puttering along on the speaker box project. Have the enclosure sanded, routed, sealed and wired.


This enclosure will see high current and pressures and the cheesy plastic terminal cups I have on hand are underwhelming. There are high power versions with thick binding posts and additional mounting screws that would be much better. Some are just a studs on a plate. I ended up making my own by installing 3/8 studs for use with ring terminals. Not sure I like the solution now, so may plug holes and just run the wires out and hook directly to amp terminal (which is removable). For wire I used 10 gauge as the RMS current can be as high as 22 amps into 2 ohm load. Even 0.01 ohms in speaker leads will drop 5 volts. Amp delivers 1000w mono into 2 ohm load. Subs are 1 ohm single coil wired in series.


I removed all the audio gear from the truck to address fitment issues. The back of the cab has a raised rail that was used to secure the fuel tank. This new box is 3" taller and needs to be clearanced for it. I used a router (piece wise linear) and sander (low pass filter) to make a ski slope shaped slot the full length. Also drilled some flat bottom holes half way through to clear the cab to cross member bolts that stick up from floor.

 

[LXCam]

I ended up making my own by installing 3/8 studs for use with ring terminals.

Holy hell Justin, you hooking up NOS to the amp too?. Least you're good up to 600amps now

 

[rattle_snake]

I received another block plate from Brad at Speed Gems and can get back to transmission project. The 2nd plate at 0.075 will give that much more torque converter clearance. The dowels in the block were too short so I pulled them out and set them shallower to make good contact into the spacer. I took measurements and calculated the TC clearance, but noticed that TC was not fully seated. Spent too long getting it clocked just right for engagement into pump gear. Bolted up the transmission and measured gap at 0.120. Was ~0.050, added 0.075 so math checks out. 0.120 is still on lower end but acceptable. Engine/trans is ready to go back in.

 

[rattle_snake]

Holy hell Justin, you hooking up NOS to the amp too?. Least you're good up to 600amps now

No need for liquid cooling amp but N2O would work well....

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin I’m playing catch up on your thread, sorry for the lat comment. I really like the fore thought on the tape measure holder and a place for the marker. I need to keep this in the back of my mind. It would be really handy at any saw.

Even though I have a sharpie and a tape at several locations, they always seem to be missing where ever I am.

 

[LXCam]

Justin, I'd like to make a suggestion before you go putting her back together 100%. Remove the TC from the trans and bolt up the assembly to the crank 100% and check the radial runout of the impeller hub.

 

[Jgaz]

Puttering along on the speaker box project. Have the enclosure sanded, routed, sealed and wired.


This enclosure will see high current and pressures and the cheesy plastic terminal cups I have on hand are underwhelming. There are high power versions with thick binding posts and additional mounting screws that would be much better. Some are just a studs on a plate. I ended up making my own by installing 3/8 studs for use with ring terminals. Not sure I like the solution now, so may plug holes and just run the wires out and hook directly to amp terminal (which is removable). For wire I used 10 gauge as the RMS current can be as high as 22 amps into 2 ohm load. Even 0.01 ohms in speaker leads will drop 5 volts. Amp delivers 1000w mono into 2 ohm load. Subs are 1 ohm single coil wired in series.


I removed all the audio gear from the truck to address fitment issues. The back of the cab has a raised rail that was used to secure the fuel tank. This new box is 3" taller and needs to be clearanced for it. I used a router (piece wise linear) and sander (low pass filter) to make a ski slope shaped slot the full length. Also drilled some flat bottom holes half way through to clear the cab to cross member bolts that stick up from floor.

The round over on the edges makes such a huge difference in the looks of your enclosure
Nice job!

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Sub box looks awesome Justin. Nice detail work on it, I'm going to have to start rounding my corners over as well!

 

[plain2car]

Start a thread for your truck project.
Thanks, you are right most of the 'stuff' is interesting or useful. I look back at the old pics with bare walls and although sterile, not as interesting. I like sterile though.

I agree the sterile look is nice too. truck project link (if interested)... 86 rebuild
I would consider it an honor to have you "review" the build. I am ALMOST ready to tackle stereo updates....

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, I'd like to make a suggestion before you go putting her back together 100%. Remove the TC from the trans and bolt up the assembly to the crank 100% and check the radial runout of the impeller hub.

Cam that is a fantastic idea, like all your ideas, however I have already put it together and in chassis

The round over on the edges makes such a huge difference in the looks of your enclosure
Nice job!

Thanks. it does even under padded fabric. And when you drop it on the corner. it's already dented/rounded off.

I agree the sterile look is nice too. truck project link (if interested)... 86 rebuild
I would consider it an honor to have you "review" the build. I am ALMOST ready to tackle stereo updates....

Thank you sir. Very nice work on the truck. Would like to see it in person at some point. Let me know if you need any help on the audio install!

 

[plain2car]

justin, thanks for the build view... even if it is a CHEVY!!! ohhhh!! you did it now!!.... "let me know if you need any help on the audio install"..... your going to regret that!! ... well maybe I will...eerr I mean my wallet!..

thanks!!

 

[rattle_snake]

Slowly chipping away at reassembly on the 72 Ford. Not as motivated as doing an upgrade or new feature. Taking the time to address any issues I didn't while waiting for parts . Everything is cleaned and prepped but going slower than it 'should', haha.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Slowly chipping away at reassembly on the 72 Ford. Not as motivated as doing an upgrade or new feature. Taking the time to address any issues I didn't while waiting for parts . Everything is cleaned and prepped but going slower than it 'should', haha.

I think that goes with any "redo" on an upgrade Justin, just part of wrenching. Would be a little different if your stable wasn't full of other Fords to drive

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes the fleet is always in need. Suburban ate yet another window regulator, A/C has a major leak. Rest of the Fords are good though perhaps there is a correlation there?

 

[rattle_snake]

Making progress on reassembly of the 72 Ford. Moved it over to the center bay and got it up on the lift. Being a custom made chassis with lots of aftermarket parts and adapters there are things that don't go together well, require assembly order or are a ***** to access. I tried to make some improvements this round but struggle on the same. Some things were built too tight and exact, bolts won't line up easily. Other have fasteners in 2 planes which is strong but difficult to align. So I enlarged some holes and blended corners and interference points.
For example, the trans crossmember fit perfectly when building chassis, but now fully assembled it is very tight and will not come out (or go in) without spreading the frame rails with a hi lift jack. The correct fix is to narrow, but at some point might as well build a new one at correct size using better methods. Or build another truck with improved design, access and fitment....

Transfer case went in very easy this time with the right tool, the adjustable double telescope trans jack. Can use the knobs to clock the case up just right to get a bolt started. Almost like cheating. Exhaust and driveshafts next, each with there own fitment and access issues. Again solvable but not quick or easy, need lots of changes and I'm not supposed to be taking this **** apart all the time.

 

[rattle_snake]

Had a little shop time last night and got a few things done. Every bolt on the transfer case shifter is difficult to say the least, special wrenches, blind overhead contortions. To do again I would cut a BIG access hole in the floor. Had some prior issues with fasteners coming loose from vibration so everything is either metal lock nut or loctite. Did the same on the transmission shift linkage also as a few jam nuts has come loose. Finished up the sensors and wiring. Installed the front driveshaft and put loctite on flange bolts as they came loose, pain to access...

Need to pick up some new fasteners for the exhaust collectors. Last round I used SS HW, probably with anti-seize but with heat they were dry. Some were missing, some were loose, most had to be cut off.

I have caught myself planning how I would do things better 'next time', but with a different end goal. I met my original goal (stock-ish looking truck with big tires/power) with what I have, and improvement mods would veer from it. So I have to be happy with what it is and leave things alone.
If I do another it would be more 'go-fast' oriented. Scratch built rec tube frame with full cage end to end. Trailing arms, bypasses, more travel, more power.

 

[LXCam]

Justin I don’t know if you’ve ever used Nordlock washers before but they might be a good solution some of your issues. I use these exclusively on collector bolts and they ended all that double nut nonsense.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[ntsqd]

I just use brass nuts on regular G5 hardware for exhaust flange connections. In 20+ years I have never had one work loose. Usually the bolts are rusty beyond reuse when I take the connections apart, but the nuts are still good to go!

To explain this further, I make three bolt flanged connections like this:

for every place that I'm likely to want to separate and remove part of the exhaust to work on something else. I started building these long before V-Band flange assemblies were commonly available. After trying a couple V-Bands I find that I prefer these.
So that 20+ years of use isn't one or two connections per vehicle. It is as many as 6 per vehicle.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin I don’t know if you’ve ever used Nordlock washers before but they might be a good solution some of your issues. I use these exclusively on collector bolts and they ended all that double nut nonsense.

Haven't seen those before. Cool, thanks for sharing Cam.
Unfortunately the diameter is too big to use in my collector application. One has to have a shaved nut to fit at all.
Always helping me spend $.

I just use brass nuts on regular G5 hardware for exhaust flange connections. In 20+ years I have never had one work loose. Usually the bolts are rusty beyond reuse when I take the connections apart, but the nuts are still good to go!

To explain this further, I make three bolt flanged connections like this:

for every place that I'm likely to want to separate and remove part of the exhaust to work on something else. I started building these long before V-Band flange assemblies were commonly available. After trying a couple V-Bands I find that I prefer these.
So that 20+ years of use isn't one or two connections per vehicle. It is as many as 6 per vehicle.

Interesting, brass nutz..
I went ahead and used G8 hardware like before and that seemed to work OK mechanically but the zinc chromate eventually disappears.

 

[LXCam]

Always helping me spend $.

That’s what I’m here for bud. And I learned that skill from the best…








My wife

 

[rattle_snake]

Truck is back together and off the lift. Just need to fill the fluids and connect rear driveshaft at the axle. At full droop the rear axle moves forward quite a bit and driveshaft just barely binds (too long). Can't take it off or on while on lift. Not really a concern in normal use, although a few ways to fix.

 

[ntsqd]

......
Interesting, brass nutz..
I went ahead and used G8 hardware like before and that seemed to work OK mechanically but the zinc chromate eventually disappears.

I was very skeptical for years, but experience with prepping an Elva MkVIIs over a couple of years convinced me to try them. It had brass nuts on it's header flange (studded BMW AL cyl head) and we never had a problem with that gasket. Tried them on a yota 4x4's exhaust system and never had one work loose. I'm sold, and it's easy to work with. Biggest problem can be finding the nuts, and that's not all that big of a problem since as last resort McMaster carries them.
Best part is when I do need to take apart one of those joints the nuts just spin off like they're supposed to. Only need penetrating oil if you can't handle the occasional screech of the nuts turning on a rusty bolt.

 

[Bodj Built]

Truck is back together and off the lift. Just need to fill the fluids and connect rear driveshaft at the axle. At full droop the rear axle moves forward quite a bit and driveshaft just barely binds (too long). Can't take it off or on while on lift. Not really a concern in normal use, although a few ways to fix.

Quick n heap way is shorter limit straps.

 

[rattle_snake]

Ya I agree. Currently there are no limit straps on the rear axle, so would have to buy some and make mounts.

Filled all the fluids and did a test drive long enough to heat trans to thermostat temp so cooler circuit would fill. Drove fine and didn't leak anything. yet. So I called it a victory.

Test fit the new speaker box, fits nicely but takes up most all the space behind the seat. Since it is not sandwiched by the seat like the old it needs some type of mounts to secure. Going to have to get creative with amplifier mounting in the limited space. Long way to go.

 

[rattle_snake]

Not much shop time lately, but that's OK, still trying to learn how to relax and say ****-it when I see something not quite perfect.

Spent last weekend at the lake with a big group. Both my kids had their own things going and weren't there. Roosevelt lake is full and beach camping is prohibited. I am not a pavement campground person, due to the other humans and their noisy generators. We stayed at friends place in Roosevelt Estates, which was a nice break from dealing with camping gear.

Slowly puttering on the truck audio system. I want to do my best possible job, so hindered with indecision on the most-bestest way to do anything and everything, and how they integrate with each other. Trying to think though the previous limitations and lessons learned for a better end result. For example, how to make box removable with out farting with amps but hide fasteners with trim pieces.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished up the subwoofer enclosure v2.0.
I used some 1/8 PVC foam sheets to make a raised diamond pattern to math the seat. Glued with trim adhesive that had just the right cure time. Made a jig for cutting smooth radii.


Rolled the end off to transition to the flat sides. Sanded the seams to look more like fabric stitching.


Marked out the cover shape and test fit before sewing up the corners.


Pattern came out OK. more contrast would be nice....


Removed the binding posts, filled the holes and rewired a pigtail hanging out. Lined the inside with Dacron to dampen, lower Q.


Installed the 10" Power slims. 1 ohm each, wired in series for 2 ohm load to amp. Enclosure done, well except for making new mounts. Not happy with the existing design.

 

[Ohmthis]

Justin…………simply wow! That looks as good or better than what comes out of a professional upholstery shop. Do you mind posting a close up of the corner? Also, if you don’t mind, can you tell us the sewing machine and the type (heaviness maybe is what I’m thinking and that’s probably still not right) of material you used? The diamonds and curves look great, I agree on the definition, but it’s too good for my truck

 

[stinkity stoink]

That came out incredible!! Great job on the upholstery and fab work

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Top shelf work on that box Justin, very sharp! The fabric was not a twist I was expecting.

 

[Boosted1]

Sub box looks awesome. Impressive work.

 

[StormcrowAz]

"more contrast would be nice..."

Sometimes there's beauty in subtlety, and I think this qualifies. Looks pretty frickin' fantastic from here!

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

The color and pattern of the sub box material are on point for your truck! Really well done!

 

[Monza Harry]

"more contrast would be nice..."

Sometimes there's beauty in subtlety, and I think this qualifies. Looks pretty frickin' fantastic from here!

The color and pattern of the sub box material are on point for your truck! Really well done!

Listen Up Justin! These gents speak the truth! The pattern is a dead match for the seats, so the depth (that is the contrast you speak of?) is on an accent piece so theme match, yes, but exact detail , No, it will detract from the overall picture. My thought is a cloth speaker cover with complimentary/or contrasting colour to taste. JMO Harry

 

[ntsqd]

I'm digging it! Nicely done.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Like everyone above, I'm very impressed with the upholstery and the sub box as a whole - well done!

 

[Trapps]

Looks great, Justin!

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin…………simply wow! That looks as good or better than what comes out of a professional upholstery shop. Do you mind posting a close up of the corner? Also, if you don’t mind, can you tell us the sewing machine and the type (heaviness maybe is what I’m thinking and that’s probably still not right) of material you used? The diamonds and curves look great, I agree on the definition, but it’s too good for my truck

Ohm,
Thanks. I did a simple single inside stitch for the corners. I use a 1950's Singer sewing machine with the biggest needle that will fit and thickest black thread it will take.

That came out incredible!! Great job on the upholstery and fab work

Thank you! Wife was like, that's nice but, isn't it going behind the seat?

Top shelf work on that box Justin, very sharp! The fabric was not a twist I was expecting.

Thanks Marc. I figured it was time to step up my game.

Sub box looks awesome. Impressive work.

Thank you Sir!

"more contrast would be nice..."

Sometimes there's beauty in subtlety, and I think this qualifies. Looks pretty frickin' fantastic from here!

Todd, I think your right. Each time I see it, I'm more happy with it.

The color and pattern of the sub box material are on point for your truck! Really well done!

Thanks Ryan! Yes this material is identical to what was used on the seat.

Listen Up Justin! These gents speak the truth! The pattern is a dead match for the seats, so the depth (that is the contrast you speak of?) is on an accent piece so theme match, yes, but exact detail , No, it will detract from the overall picture. My thought is a cloth speaker cover with complimentary/or contrasting colour to taste. JMO Harry

Harry, Ya I guess your right. I did spend WAY TO MUCH time doing the trig math by hand, to match the diamond size and aspect ratio.

I'm digging it! Nicely done.

Thanks!

Like everyone above, I'm very impressed with the upholstery and the sub box as a whole - well done!

Thanks Austin. Took a long time but working on patience and improving my skills. For example using a router/circle jig over a jigsaw

Looks great, Justin!

Thanks Trapps!

 

[slodat]

Justin - nice work. If you'd like to clean up the ends of the enclosure, you could make end caps that get wrapped separately. You can gap them for the material thickness. End result is super clean and the line that the separate end cap makes is a nice detail. If you want the material to have more definition, you can use a tool to roll the material into the grooves made by the pvc. When it's rolled in, it doesn't want to stretch out. You did a great job!

My offer to help you is still there. VERY nice work!