To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Thanks guys. Yes it was nice to enjoy and have it perform mostly as I wanted. A new todo list for the truck but minor things now.

Ordered a Ruff stuff D60 diff cover to replace the dented stocker, instead of repair/reinforce. 3/8" beefy plate
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Was considering buying a hand tamper/compactor tool for various needs. I have a digging bar but round end is very small and whole thing is too heavy. Boot only works good, haha.
Picked through my junk piles and found some treasures to use. Dimple die set for sink drain and some old steering and suspension links out of 1.5" 0.25 wall DOM. Welded a nut on the end to bolt together. 7/8 threaded inserts in DOM was fine thread (suspension) on one and course (steering tie rod) on the other so just spot welded to get handle long enough.
6_3tzuK9ZV-AwBGBUfug=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

about the right weight and foot size for what I wanted.
6EL05enzfeH7lanL3WRYw=w692-h923-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 

ntsqd

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
967
Location
Lower left coast
My RuffStuff D60 cover wasn't as flat on the gasket surface as I thought it should be. I used an exhaust manifold surfacing belt sander (privilege of where I worked p/t at the time) to flatten it. Then I used Glyptal on the inside to seal it. Outside just got Steel-It.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Using the sink drain dimple die should help your soil drain better...😉
yes logic would dictate that behavior.
My RuffStuff D60 cover wasn't as flat on the gasket surface as I thought it should be. I used an exhaust manifold surfacing belt sander (privilege of where I worked p/t at the time) to flatten it. Then I used Glyptal on the inside to seal it. Outside just got Steel-It.
Mine was flat, Blanchard ground.
Kick *** trip report. I have changed my path this year to a topper on my Ram. Then just an airbedz for the box plus my coolers, bbq/stove and sleeping bag. Keeps me off the ground and money to the bronco NOW instead of over the next few months.
quick and easy....
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
I have wanted to build a curved fence around my garden for some time. I finally decided on design and materials, but needed some way to roll the tubing, in this case 14g 1-1/2" Square. I looked at the various options and decided not to invest in a roller and dies. Not enough use for the cost, size/space to store. The HF pipe kinker is somewhat of the same machine, jus with a fixed middle die. I imagine it wouldn't be that hard to fab a powered (hand or electric) roller that attaches to the ram. I bought an extra stick and tried just giving it a pump and a half every other inch. Worked well enough, 3 surfaces are mint and the bottom has distortions from center die.
~60 bends.
q2mcnl80sC9noV57JLNQ=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Started on the 2nd, left side, bedside toolbox project. Cut box off old bed
6AWd-admcRw_yUidveuQ=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Chopped hole in truck, cut width smaller.
Blf-rRRnUUUe8V9eAHzA=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Threw the cutout back on the donor bed to make it complete.
oBEQi-nsBuccSJz87xmQ=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Used some painters tape to make a more accurate template cut, some fitting and booger welds.
Vp8e_7rVxSfxZRXikWzQ=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

The liner needs to be the mirror image. 1st was to move the recess for the bed cross member
PwTrulSx5EUAjLuZ8LpA=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Cut and swap sides.
gsSVruTQ99v97JniI0Ig=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Then a slight notch for the forward spring hanger.
5rbjWGBOzy1oOyIDhhKw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Next step is body work and paint. Need to buy some more paint. Door is in good shape, but missing the latch which is not a standard size.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Modifications are looking good Justin!

You are a much braver man than I, not sure I could cut into the "freshly" painted bedside!
haha the old paint can had 2021 date so no too fresh. Especially after last trail run.
Ain't that the truth! I would have been a puddle of mush on the first cut. But based off of his mad skills, I bet the end result will be fantastic...
Had to take a DEEP breath before the first contact.
Cool pictures from your offroad trip :cool:


Awesome job on the toolbox :thumbup: :thumbup:
Thanks, trip was a blast, and made it back under it's own power.
Very brave indeed!! Great job on the bedside modification though !
This project was a 'maybe some day' that turned into a 'need to get going to get this old bed off my trailer'
Looks killer, great work!
Thanks man. Going to build some protection to keep it from getting smashed like the other side.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Yes, now that I have smashed up the right side toolbox on last trail run I need to raise priority of rocker/bed protection. I just can't decide on how to do it exactly. The length is long, the frame twists a lot, and I don't want to add weight. I think attaching to frame is the way to go.

I have dreamt up some overly complicated designs to make one big belly pan that includes the sliders. Build like an airplane wing out of 3/16 plate. speed holes, material only in plane needed, blah blah. tab fit, removable, Nylon sheet on bottom.

but just some round or rectangle tube would work also. Intended use is light protection and push rear end away from obstacle, not really support entire weight for jacking.

Although the time to integrate with a belly skid is now, so I guess I should consider the bigger picture.
 

Mark_17

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Messages
745
Location
NJ
Your truck is so good looking I'm not sure if you'd want to have the sliders look very obvious. Maybe just something that attaches to the outside of the frame and tucks right up to the sheet metal.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Yes that is the idea, to hide in plain sight. I have seen some sliders made with wedge cross section so that the outer edge is narrow. Started with something like 2x3 rectangular tube, cut diag and weld in the Hypotenuse. Paint black.
 

ntsqd

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
967
Location
Lower left coast
No cutting involved, tube is 2.0" X 2.0" X .25", top strap is 1.50" X .25", angled strap is 2.0" X .25"; will just need a lot of back-stepping.

i-mnBQCXr-M.jpg
How to attach to a flexy frame w/o tearing things up is the bigger challenge. I've got nothing right now.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
How to attach to a flexy frame w/o tearing things up is the bigger challenge. I've got nothing right now.
Yes this is the tricky part of the job. How many tie-ins, wall thickness, how to not contact the cab or bed when flexed out. Thinking less may be more in some areas. Don't want to weld 400 lbs of ladder bars all over covered in plate.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
Been puttering on the bodywork. done with filler but ended up going back and redoing the wheel well corner and old fuel fill since I'm going to paint the area anyhow. My acceptance criteria has changed over the last 4 years, can't leave well enough alone. Next is acid etch primer on bare steel, high build primer as needed, 1k sealer, then 2-coats green. Plan to shoot the front valance again as it is light on paint. Fully welded the box liner in prep for seam sealer, and replacing the old cracked sealer. It's galvanized so no paint planned.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
My version of a 90% bodywork and paint job. The last 10% is 90% of the effort. Minimal filler over perfectness. Etch, high build, sealer.
DBnKpelmpkyjgss-3t4w=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

2 coats Urethane single stage, blend at wheel arch.
JV0OtYeH3i2queGLnrKw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Slicked up the liner welds and applied seam sealer. Had to fill and redrill several mounting holes. Just need to fit in truck and add back one more back mount.
HEbYgwbJc3cjSOQXbtow=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,124
Location
AZ
Yes that is the idea, to hide in plain sight. I have seen some sliders made with wedge cross section so that the outer edge is narrow. Started with something like 2x3 rectangular tube, cut diag and weld in the Hypotenuse. Paint black.
This was what I built for that jeep I did several years ago. How I mitigated the structural flaw was to internally brace my angle side with flat bar like this

IMG_6280.jpeg
IMG_6281.jpeg
IMG_7081.jpeg

This guy wanted a step more then he needed a rock slider which should explain the finished product. But I can attest to this these things had no issue supporting the jeep. And no body else has anything like it.

IMG_7896.jpeg

Details buried here if anyone cares to waste an hour or so: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/building-tube-fenders-for-a-jeep.395090/page-4
 
Last edited:
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
This was what I built for that jeep I did several years ago. How I mitigated the structural flaw was to internally brace my angle side with flat bar like this

This guy wanted a step more then he needed a rock slider which should explain the finished product. But I can attest to this these things had no issue supporting the jeep. And no body else has anything like it.

Details buried here if anyone cares to waste an hour or so: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/building-tube-fenders-for-a-jeep.395090/page-4
Cool thanks for sharing. slick result. :beer:
Wow Justin, you made that look so easy - well done!
Thanks. It does get easier with more time spent doing it. I have learned a lot since starting on this truck project many years ago.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,199
Location
Chandler, AZ
I test fit the toolbox liner, welded on a 2nd rear support and installed it and the door. Tied it shut with some bailing twine and it's back on the road. I bought another toolbox door with a latch on Ebay so should have latch painted and installed shortly. Then I can empty out the in-bed toolbox and have the option to store a Jerry can in it's place.
Dz6xTfqaRA0Xf0ppqNXg=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

AFTER buying more paint and hardener, I still used the some of the leftovers in the old gallon can. I mixed the perfect amount, used all the old hardener down to the mL. I had an oz left and shot it on a 1985 USMC Jerry can I had on hand. The can was painted black poorly, some came off during clean up. A light dusting of the green gave an interesting 'old' look.
XKStmVNIF6KTUD6LYLBSA=w715-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom