rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

I have never really been happy with my material rack. Needs a lot more pegs to hold different lengths, and full unistut on every stud. That's too much trouble. To mitigate I made some simple fixed racks to hold flat stock of various sizes.


Cleared out a hole and put a rack on each stud. Now I can store sorted by thickness of any length up to 10'. Still need to add some Uni someplace to make the rest more usable.

 

[Bears Fan]

Nice rack Justin

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Justin, stop reminding me a need a better storage solution for lumber/metal/etc

Mine is scattered around in the shop and the detached garage. The Mach 1 keeps the wood pile in that garage company, and blocks it from direct eye view when you come in the man door.

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice rack Justin

Thanks Tony!
I like nice racks.

Justin, stop reminding me a need a better storage solution for lumber/metal/etc

Mine is scattered around in the shop and the detached garage. The Mach 1 keeps the wood pile in that garage company, and blocks it from direct eye view when you come in the man door.

Marc, Glad the FORD is making you life better, haha

The material hording and storing is an ongoing beast. I have enough space, but can't seem to get motivated to put it to best use.

 

[rattle_snake]

The toolbox door/latch showed up so I went right to work painting the latch. I also shot the front valance and put more paint on the Jerry can.


Hacked up the trim into three pieces and formed the ends. Installed 2 new keyed alike cam locks.


New gaskets and door stop wire. For the catch, I had to make a mirror image of the old. I flattened in the press and re-bent it the other direction. Took some fine tuning to get it to slam shut properly.

Emptied out the black toolbox that was in the bed and filled up the new

 

[rattle_snake]

Used up the extra paint on several coat to this Jerry can


Fits in the 10L water jug holder perfectly as expected.

 

[rattle_snake]

Bottle jack has to store upright to leak less, so can't put it in bedside toolbox. Made a simple bracket out of 3/16, bent in press. Couple pumps on jack and it secures itself. Out of the way. I carry some wood cribbing to get height I need to change tire.

 

[larry4406]

Bottle jack has to store upright to leak less, so can't put it in bedside toolbox. Made a simple bracket out of 3/16, bent in press. Couple pumps on jack and it secures itself. Out of the way. I carry some wood cribbing to get height I need to change tire.

Nice!

Don’t forget the bottle jack handle storage.

 

[ntsqd]

https://safejacks.com/ ?

 

[Bears Fan]

Looks awesome! you need to be careful making the ol' Ford look so good, you won't want to take it off road

 

[Boosted1]

Like someone before me said, the tool box looks like it came that way from factory. Nice job.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

The trim turned out great Justin, very clean execution.

 

[rattle_snake]

Like someone before me said, the tool box looks like it came that way from factory. Nice job.

Thanks. Bodywork and paint came out better than I though. The more I learn and progress the easier/faster it gets but expectations rise also so time spent is about the same.

Most won't notice or recognize the modification.

The trim turned out great Justin, very clean execution.

Thanks Marc. Having previously modified the lower trim around modified wheel wells made this set go quick and easy. The piece has a curve to it, and when the ends are bent it flattens the corrugations and lengthens the edge. This removed the curve, so have to go back and shrink the metal a bit and massage so it sits happy before installing on truck.

 

[rattle_snake]

Need a larger power steering fluid cooler, or at least one that mounts in the cooler stack so it has airflow across it. Stumbled across an application specific plate style cooler that was about the right size, with mounting provisions and a hardline to bring both connections to one side.
Dorman 918-287 Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler. From Expedition/Navigator with heavy duty cooling package so should be enough for a steering pump. I though about a fan with temp sensor on the existing cooler but this is more simple. Even when engine is cold, idle in park the fan pulls air through.


Simple brackets to mount to A/C condenser.






Has 10mm barbs. I can get 3/8" TOC hose on but tight. Need to flush the system of the Dex/Merc and refill with Mercon LV same as transmission.

 

[rattle_snake]

I got the cooler install wrapped up. I added a third fastener in the extra tab to prevent wobbling on the rubber mounts. Local Autozone was out of TOC hose. I had some and made it work by extending the hardline from the box. The long line puts more leverage on the flare nut though, so I should probably redo it. I was able to flush and refill with Merc LV. The hoses run through the same hole as the A/C, so the core support can be removed with out cracking in to the lines.



hit the fasteners with black paint, and it all disappears.


Used Oetiker clamps. 1/2 pex clamps work good for 3/8 hoses.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Do said improvements make the Ford power steering pump sound more or less like a supercharger?





Kidding....kind of




I like what you did with mounting brackets, I'll be doing something similar with the AC Condenser on the '49(someday, stuff has been on the shelf for like 4-5yrs now). Another clean execution as expected!

 

[ntsqd]

The cure for the early Ford PS Pump noise is a Saginaw pump or a late model Exploder or SD pump. I know of no other cure. I note that this truck has already been cured with a canned ham (no pun-ishness intended). Maybe it had the cure from the beginning as some did.

 

[rattle_snake]

Just the cool noises add 15 hp.

The 1976 E350 van 460 core I started with already had a Saginaw pump. I resealed it and hot rodded it by drilling the outlet and re-shimming the bypass for more pressure and flow. Didn't go crazy, within OEM spec of 1500 psi.

I was happy how well the power steering system worked on the rocks. Seems to have enough assist even locked with 40s as 8 psi. Until it got to hot, but that should be solved now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Knocking out some honey-do house projects that have been lingering for years. Bathroom plumbing, more fencing, painting. Attempted to have a painter out to spray an exterior section but never happened. Bought a cheap airless paint spray rig and some accessories. Extra 25' hose (total 50') and a 3' tip extension. I had two mostly empty buckets of paint, one from house and one shop. Didn't know if it would be enough so bought another 5g. Flushed the machine and hosed the paint on. Ran out of paint just as I finished. Would have ran short if I had not purchased more already, because Murphy law. Didn't want to have to clean machine twice. Next job is south wall of barn that is pealing badly.

Went out camping last weekend and did a lot of shooting. Sighted in my new AR10. The revamped targets worked well. Took the old Ford and it did great, drove some narrow trails with lots of brush to break in the new paint. Aux battery system wasn't charging so no blasting audio system. Didn't feel like dealing with it so enjoyed the quiet and sounds of wildlife. Didn't touch my phone, no pics, just enjoy being out of the city. Desert camp season is pretty much over. I have all my camping gear organized and stored in one place now, so packing and unpacking is quick and easy.

 

[rattle_snake]

Received my order of LED tubes to retrofit all the shop lights. Shopped way to long for bulbs. Ended up ordering these Philips type B from home depot for $8 a pop. The ballasts are dying and I'm done replacing them, LEDs was the succession plan from the start. I did a pair of fixtures above the bench to see how they look. Definitely brighter and cleaner (less yellow) than the old, dirty fluorescents with worn out ballasts. 40 more to go.

 

[larry4406]

Did you go single ended or double ended? Apparently type B comes both ways. I’m still trying to get smart on my project to replace T8’s with LEDs.

 

[rattle_snake]

These are double ended. Yes 'type B' can be either flavor that are not compatible with one another. My cheap HD fixtures have only one wire per end connector, so I needed the double end type. Should have looked at one before ordering.

My knee hasn't recovered from two weekends ago, so going to have to go slow putting these in. Damn this getting old stuff!

 

[rattle_snake]

At that time of year to start needing A/C in the house. One of the new units was heat only on cool or heat.
The tech who wired it had it cool and heat before he left. Evidently he fiddled with the wiring in between and didn't retest both modes.
I found that the 24 VAC hot wire was not connect to condenser, and change over valve was on the wrong wire. The contacts are 24 V and need the power supply, but somehow the pump/fan circuit was completed. I fixed the wiring and all is good. I seem to have bad luck with HVAC contractors and always end up redo their work. If you want it right, do it yourself I guess.

 

[rattle_snake]

Not a lot happening lately at the Speed Metal garage. Knee is still a problem but don't need surgery so that is a win. No motivation to move my projects forward so have been puttering on fixing random broken stuff. The list is never ending.

Current project is on going A/C battle on the 2001 suburban. Last refrigerant fill leaked out, so I injected some UV dye. I did a thorough inspection and cannot find any sign of oil/dye. I hooked up the gauge set and noted that static it still had some refrigerant. Upon removal of the high side connector the service valve was leaking. I tried resetting with connector, then poking with a blunt rod to try and seat the ball (not a Shrader valve). The rubber was already torn so it needs replacement. Have one on order, going to also check the front (has rear A/C too) orifice tube while I have the system empty. While farting around with the HVAC controls I see that the actuators are not working properly and no flow from dash vents when selected. I get defrost/floor instead. Maybe this is related to the fact that front A/C won't work by itself and rear A/C must be on to get cool air from front vents. At least the driver window is fixed (again) but too hot now for wife drive w/o A/C. I attribute the ongoing issues just being part of owning a Chevy.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I don't know Justin, you can hang meat in any of my GM products.

On my era of Suburban, if the expansion valve sticks open on the rear AC portion, the front won't cool very well. And it's generally the rear lines that begin to leak first.

Bummer on the knee, I understand that type of pain frustration. I take a daily tumeric/CBD capsule for my shoulders and knees. I can always tell when I miss a morning.

 

[rattle_snake]

Well Marc I thought that would get a reaction from you. Parts in today to fix. Going to put another 4 12 oz cans in and see what happens, and pretend everything is fine with dash controls haha.

 

[rattle_snake]

Swapped out the leaving service port and refilled the AC system. I get cold air from the front AC but only though the defrost vents. Changing setting on the control knob only switches the fresh/recirculate lights. I'm guessing this is a pneumatic system, with a leak. Need to pull cover off motor and trace the lines.

 

[rattle_snake]

Bought another amplifier to replace the older style sub amp. Another used QSC GX5, half the size and current draw than the old. The old amp (1996 vintage USA1310) had a fairly loud cooling fan, even at low speed. The GX series are all forced cooled but much quieter.
Each GX5 drives a pair of subwoofers. Noticeable difference with new amp, tighter and more controlled at high volume, similar to getting the first one. I was able to bump up the main speaker gain ~3db to balance out to the subs, so a gain in total SPL. Waiting on some new Rockford 10" subwoofers to replace the $50 no-name specials, that will be passed on to my daughter's car.
Total power output per specs is the same, but the newer amps actually make their numbers. 2800 to the four subs and 800 to the mains. Shuffled all the equipment around as the new stuff is half the size.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Swapped out the leaving service port and refilled the AC system. I get cold air from the front AC but only though the defrost vents. Changing setting on the control knob only switches the fresh/recirculate lights. I'm guessing this is a pneumatic system, with a leak. Need to pull cover off motor and trace the lines.

Justin, I know most of the GMT800 rigs used an actuator motor vs a vacuum setup.

 

[PugetDude]

Bought another amplifier to replace the older style sub amp. Another used QSC GX5, half the size and current draw than the old. The old amp (1996 vintage USA1310) had a fairly loud cooling fan, even at low speed. The GX series are all forced cooled but much quieter.
Each GX5 drives a pair of subwoofers. Noticeable difference with new amp, tighter and more controlled at high volume, similar to getting the first one. I was able to bump up the main speaker gain ~3db to balance out to the subs, so a gain in total SPL. Waiting on some new Rockford 10" subwoofers to replace the $50 no-name specials, that will be passed on to my daughter's car.
Total power output per specs is the same, but the newer amps actually make their numbers. 2800 to the four subs and 800 to the mains. Shuffled all the equipment around as the new stuff is half the size.

Crank it up, I will be able to hear it out here at my place!

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Crank it up, I will be able to hear it out here at my place!

Between the burnouts and stereo, we can always tell what Justin is up to!

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, I know most of the GMT800 rigs used an actuator motor vs a vacuum setup.

Hmm, I've found some conflicting info on the interwebs, imagine that. Wife is happy at this point so back burner project. I see no vac lines through firewall.

Crank it up, I will be able to hear it out here at my place!

Oh I do every day, just not for very long.

Between the burnouts and stereo, we can always tell what Justin is up to!

What can I say? Not much has changed in the last 30 years. Never grew up.

 

[rattle_snake]

Preparing for another trip with the old Ford, overland expo in Flagstaff. Plan to camp west of the event as before. Not sure my knee is up to the walk to venue and wandering around, if not going to relax or explore the area. Going to pack up and camp someplace else in the area Saturday. Probably not needed for this trip, but I want to have the option to carry a Jerry can of fuel in addition to a water jug. With the toolbox gone from inside the bed I had room to mount another can. I fab'd a simple and light hold down bracket to secure the Jerry can. Welded a captive nut and spacer to make it easier to handle.


After filling all the holes in the bed I don't feel bad about drilling more. Picked a location, drilled two holes and installed riv-nut on the floor.

 

[SilverJimmy]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Do you have any large heat shrink you could slip over that in a few places so the paint doesn’t get rubbed thru? That is the prettiest Jerry can I’ve ever seen!

 

[rattle_snake]

Brilliant!
Yes I put a piece of heater hose and some foam gaskets to prevent noise and paint abrasion. Glad I painted the can with what was left in the cup, came out nice.

 

[rattle_snake]

Had some issues with the door ******** the bedside toolbox I added. I bought some small cable and used ring terminals, but not robust enough to hold the heavy recovery gear. I had some heavier cable so I got to use a new tool I bought a while back, hydro crimper

 

[ntsqd]

I've been using Nicopress crimp sleeves and crimper on stop cables like that, but the cable loop isn't as tidy as the eyelet terminals. Going around the anti-dust plug below still wants the sleeve, but an eyelet would been better for capturing the other end under the LH air manifold mounting screw.

 

[Ohmthis]

Had some issues with the door ******** the bedside toolbox I added. I bought some small cable and used ring terminals, but not robust enough to hold the heavy recovery gear. I had some heavier cable so I got to use a new tool I bought a while back, hydro crimper

I’ve got a crimper almost identical to this. I wish I had one years ago. I put cable railing on a deck at our lake place. This tool made that job so easy. Hope your knee gets to feeling better. God knows I feel old sometimes.

 

[PhantomEB]

Justin, you and I thinking a lot alike. I have stopped giving a care about the holes I have put into the bronco. Next winter when she’s got some seat time in her I plan to weld up every extra hole at that time then give her a real paint job with flat endura clear coat.

 

[lilscorpion]

I've been using Nicopress crimp sleeves and crimper on stop cables like that, but the cable loop isn't as tidy as the eyelet terminals. Going around the anti-dust plug below still wants the sleeve, but an eyelet would been better for capturing the other end under the LH air manifold mounting screw.

I didn’t know this tool existed. I’ve been smashing them on the floor with a ball-pein hammer. They’re very much like the electrical lug crumper I have. Wish I could set them side by side. My gut says they’re the same tool.